Toyota Land Cruiser

jgravel

Thanks for all the help will my problem. This has been very useful.

luckylou

Good morning. Ditto to post #2357. I have learned more on EDMUNDS Town Hall than any of the automobiles magazines I subscribe to,specially up to date information. What a wonderful country the USA is that allows this kind of freedom! Keep the good work . Thank you.

njpaguy

Looking for a Toyota dealer in the Central NJ/Eastern PA area to service my '01 TLC. One with a reputable service department. My current dealer is now my former dealer (not worth the space explaining...but I'll share the name in private e-mail if you're curious).

loosebottles

Any comments on how durable the '03 5 speed transmission may be vs the prior generation/previous year 4 speeds? I remember reading early in this discussion that the 4 speed was from a bus or something to that effect? I love the idea of this vehicle being over engineered for durability reasons..

I'm wondering if the present 5 speed is a proven transmission? A sales person I spoke with stated that he thought it was basically the same tranny except Toyota modified the existing transmission for the added 5th.. While being mechanically minded, I'm not in the know at all about transmissions. His statements seem unlikely.. Any feedback appreciated.

idahodoug

Bottles,

Toyota makes the world's most rugged offroad vehicles and light trucks. The LandCruiser is Toyota's premier heavy duty offroad model. The transmission in the current model is not only heavy enough for you to use in the tame US environment you will drive in, it will also hold up in its applications in the rest of the world - including carrying miners around abusive mining operations, oil pipiline maintanance vehicle, and carrying workers and military personnel around the deserts and jungles of the world.

The bus transmission you refer to was in the 80 series LandCruiser from 1991-1994.

IdahoDoug

intmed99

It is a brand-new tranny. It has NOTHING to do with the old 4-speed. The ratios are totally different.

The durability should be excellent, as all Toyota transmission. However, it does NOT have a history yet.

zuma13

Idaho Doug, I've been reading your most informative posting on this site and I would like to direct this query to you (or whomever might have a knowledgible insight into the subject). I have approximately 56K on my 01' LC. It is starting to experience some body roll around the corners and pitching on the turns and when braking.

I think new shocks are in order. That being the case, would you recommend the stock replacement shocks or Bilstein shocks? I once owned a Range Rover and the Bilsteins made a "big" improvement in ride and handling.

Thanks for your input.

th003g

anyone want a red 96 TLC fully loaded with everything... except dual lockers, has every option for the year, showroom condition...factory grille gards, taillight gards... the works.... 12k miles... yes 12K miles.. hahah.... now onto my question for the car.... it has seemed to develope an idle stutter... only happens in drive (not park,reverse, neutral) it'll idle for a bit and the car will sound and feel like its got a mild case of the hiccups as the engine speend dips a few and the car shudders once....

tidester

I am sure you were kidding but ... no buying and selling on the Town Hall boards!

tidester, host

mobiweld

I have a '98 and just put on Bilstein's two weeks ago (80,000 mi). Made quite a difference.

jat10

I am preparing to vehicle shop for an '03 TLC. I am finding that ea. dealer has 1-2 '02's left, w/ asking prices roughly $10K less than MSRP ($48,200 - $49,600, etc.). One dealer has a "new" '02 w/ 12k miles on it - asking $49,999(I know too much, but what would be fair?). Where should these prices be (new, low/no miles), fairly? $10K off MSRP sounds great, but what about the year of depreciation, etc.? The year of depreciation would appear to be very important, for example, if I were to lease the TLC. Finally, they'd have to be an appreciable spread below the '03's to make it worth purchasing. I'd appreciate thoughts, I'm in the Boston market.

luckylou

I have researched both the 2003 TLC and 2003 LX470. I would suggest you widen the scope of your search to other states of union , try SPRINGFIELD TOYOTA in VIRGINIA , also check EDMUNDS TRUE MARKET VALUE (TMV) . You could have the vehicle ship to your front door for 7 or 8 hundred $$ . Remember to eat before you go shopping and don't be in a hurry . Relax..... Thank you.

tidester

FYI - True Market Value

tidester, host

cliffy1

Thanks.

BTW, I have yet to see the black garnet color. I'm dying to take a look at it. It sounds like it was be out of this world.

idahodoug

Zuma,

I've done some suspension development from the manufacturing side and I'm always amazed that people will put on an aftermarket shock and declare it an improvement. Shock selection at the factory produces virtually a custom shock absorber tailored for the vehicle's characteristics. Among other things, here are a few of those characteristics that drive the factory choice: high speed behavior, low speed behavior, emergency fully laden behavior, emergency fully laden max braking behavior, center of gravity, suspension travel, suspension geometry, max vehicle weight, min vehicle weight, shock stroke length, vehicle roll center, blah blah. On the LandCruiser, there are even different shocks based upon the vehicle's options.

Aftermarket shocks are not tailored in this way, in fact they often sell the same shock for several different vehicles the shock maker deems as similar. Financially, it is simply not cost effective for an aftermarket maker to develop a shock for each model on the market.

To me, the best shock to replace your original equipment shocks with is another set of original equipment shocks. I also think there's a good chance your perception of the LC's change in handling is the normal owner tendancy to feel it is deteriorating, rather than reality. LC shocks are very high grade and always have been. I believe LC shocks are still made by Tokico - one of the world's most durable shocks. At that low mile, I'd be surprised if they're damping much different than when they were new. I put new shocks on my 80 series at 100k after a life of heavy towing, rough offroading and lots of fun. The new shocks made hardly any difference and the old shocks were in fine shape - I installed them myself.

The only exception to my "stock shocks" exception is if you're going to replace both springs and shocks as a matched pair such as offered by OME.

I'm sure this will give me a flurry of "my LC handles so much better" replies, but I'll disagree unless you can provide me with the data results of thorough track testing. And before I shift it to replies saying "my butt tells me its so", I'll tell you I have a well tuned track certified butt and would never rely on it to tune my suspension in a world of unblinking computer sensors and the data they produce.

IdahoDoug

luckylou

TOYOTA place this color in the 2003 brochure just to wet our appetite , next year will be a bunch of them around. Thank you.

mobiweld

I've yet to meet a mechanic who didn't recommend Bilstein's as as replacement for stock (present company excluded). Admittedly, the mechanics I know work on BMW, Porches, and Land Rover. When it comes to racing, both on and off-road, I haven't seen many Tokiko units. Based on their website, if you want to lower your Honda Civic, Tokiko is a fine door to knock on. Anyone know what one would pay at a dealership for a Tokiko shock? I just love saying Tokiko.

intmed99

I agree with you. However, a few quality shock companies make specific shocks for each vehicle. Bilsteins, Tokico, and Edelbrock do for sure.

luckylou

We have come to a final decision after vasilating for sometime ,we pick the 2003 LX470 we balance the pros and cons and read opinions from both camps and numerous reviews and taking into consideration we might not have the opportunity again to a buy new vehicle and never owned a luxury vehicle we decided to take the plunge with both feet . I treasure your opinions for better or for worth...... Thank you.

cliffy1

Let us know when you pick it up. I will be happy when I know you got exactly what you wanted.

ndorsey

what was found out about your transmission noise?
I have a 99 L/C with the same problem. The dealer says it's normal but I found the TSB. I like to no what you found out.

jgravel

Neal, your the first acknowledgment I've gotten on this subject. I called my dealer and got no where. They told me to bring it in and they'd check it out ($$$). I asked about the TSB and got no answer. I did get quizzed about paperwork verifying that I've had the tranny fluid changed every 14K miles which sounded like a warranty defense.

Can you pass along the TBS or how you found it?\

Thanks,

mkwame

I also have a 99 TLC with the tranny whine. The TSB out there is for the Transfer case buzz not the Transmission. I bought my rig used about 1 year ago and brought to the dealer attn: about the tranny whine, dealer test drove with me and reported the whine is normal.

Transfer case buzz is the Transfer case shift lever buzzing when cruising along. It goes away if you touch the lever.

jgravel

Kwame, it's hard to believe that transmission whine is "normal", but your dealer may have been right and not just trying to close the deal :-).

IdahoDoug, Intmed99 or Cliffy1, you seem extremely knowledgeable regarding LC's. Please comment?

(BTW, I hoping this is normal. I have no desire to deal with transmission problems)

Thanks again

ndorsey

Basically it says;
To minimize operation noise from the transfer case during low speed moderate acceleration and high speed light acceleration, the high speed output gear, shift lever assembly, and center differential case have been modified.
Then it gives VIN numbers, and what parts are effected ie. High speed output gear, shift lever and linkage, and center differential case.

They add a note at the end saying:
The snap ring is used to minimize axial play when installing new High Speed Output Gear. The thrust washer is used to establish proper oil clearance for the differential side gears inside the center differential case

I got this straight from NHSTA.

I can email more if you like.

ndorsey

Oh by the mkwame I am sorry I meant transfer case. Initially it is hard to determine which one is makeing the noise but I finally determined it when the the dealer said that there was no problem found, and close out the work as no prblem found. But when I picked up the vehicle I told the service writer it is still there; so the lead mechanic went for a ride, and said he hears the noise and it is normal. Then he immediately took in the shop, change the transfer oil[with warm oil], lubed drive shaft, and change rear diff. but didn't want to write it up on the work order. I drove it to work and everything was ok. Then after sitting the cold all day I drove home it was there again.

Sorry for such a long explaination.

serrano

idahodoug - interesting comment regarding OE shocks. The problem that I see with your analysis is that OE developers design in characteristics and damping for OE shocks according to the manufacturer's specs. Sometimes, the manufacturers just get it wrong when they seek certain performance characteristics. My Isuzu Trooper has floated like a land yacht since day 1. The springing and damping are a lame attempt to get both a soft ride and off-road performance from a 4600lb vehicle. In my opinion, that's impossible. I would gladly sacrifice some softness for a vehicle that handles more accurately and rides more than 1 inch off the bump stops with one person.

Regards,
Tom

ddw78

Since info on this board, and especially IdahoDoug's comments were quite helpful in making my mind up on whether to pony up the extra few thousand to go with a clean '98 TLC with the V8 and IFS vs. a '97 with the 6 and the live axel, I thought I would post a follow up on my satisfaction level with the decision after 4 months and about 4,000 miles.

So far, I think it was worth the difference for my usage. We bought a mountain cabin that we need to drive about 4 hours of interstate/2 lane blacktop through the desert to get to, with the last 8 miles on icy, snow-packed mountain roads with a 13% grade to get up to about 7,000 ft. elevation. The vehicle fills this role admirably. It is rock-solid and comfortable at 80+ on the freeway. On the 2 lane black top, the V8 gives enough kick to get around semi's in the few safe passing zones, quickly.

The traction in snow is fully what I expected it to be from the reputation of this vehicle. I even seem to be averaging 17.9 MPG at an average speed of 75 mph (some bursts over 90, and 80 - 85 mostly on the freeway.)

I don't know if I would be as pleased with the 6 on the mountain roads or not, but I am happy beyond expectations with the the V8. This is one fine truck for my purposes.

Cheers,

DDW

mobiweld

Doug, I've got a '98 with an erratic idle an occasional stalling problem. My understanding is there are two sensors housed within the throttle body. My local dealer has a throttle body in stock for $950 which leads me to believe that this is a common problem because it's highly uncommon for a dealer to carry a $950 part in inventory. I'm trying to avoid replacing the throttle body and would like to try the two sensors first. Which of the two sensors is a liklier candidate for failure? The throttle position sensor or the other one?

Thanks is advance.
Scott
scott@mobi-arc.com

scifi

It is not whether Bilsteins, Tokico, and Edelbrock, etc...can make a better shock for the Land Cruiser than the current OEM shocks, its whether one is available.

I don't know if the aftermarket shocks offered are custom-made for the LC, or simply fit its dimensions (along with a few other similar-sized SUVs). Anyone have some research/opinions on this?

tuition06

In this current blizzard on the Jersey Shore am I better off using hi range AWD or Low Range with the center differential locked. I have radial chains installed on the rear also. More than 18 inches of snow on the ground. 1997 TLC. Appreciate the advice.

idahodoug

Scott,

I find it impossible to conceive that Toyota would physically embed a pair of $35 sensors in a $950 part such that if either went bad you have to replace it. I also find it hard to accept that a dealer with the Toyota diagnostics software cannot find a code or trouble indicator by hooking it to the LC's self-diagnostics indicator. I'd be guessing, so I won't. But it seems to me you've hit it on the button - the dealer has a part in stock he'd like to sell you. Find another dealer.

As to the 97 LC in snow, you're better off in high range unless you've become stuck. Underway in high range, the viscous center dif function is used and better allows for maneuvering in snow and such. This is based on many days of offroading in snow as well as living in a winter climate where we're permitted to have steel studded tires. Be sure to check the tensioners on your cable chains frequently. They can make a serious mess of the body in about 10 seconds if they get loose.

As for the comment above regarding complaints about a Trooper's suspension shortcomings, I have little to say. It's no LandCruiser, that's for sure. And perhaps that's why the Trooper is going away this year.

IdahoDoug

fj100

Do not run snow chains on just the back wheels.

Also, when we received 18 inches in NC about 3 years ago, we drove around in 4 wheel high, no diff lock, just like on a normal street. This was in a '95 LC. It was absolutely no problem what so ever.

Reply to 2387 - As far as the throttle position sensor, I had it replaced at my local dealership for $262 dollars, labor and parts. Do not let your dealer rip you off. I can send receipts if needed. They hooked up the Onboard Diagnostics and it told them exactly what the problem was.

Later,

fj100
'99 LC with Stuff

tuition06

Thanks everybody for your interest and quick response. So it sounds like you are suggesting using chains on all four wheels if needed? Also,more interesting than that - shall I consider the fj 100 series as an upgrade. Many folks have written that the 80 series is built like a locomotive and is a keeper. I only have 52k on my 97. Should I research a 98 or newer? Is it the way to go? Thanks.

dvnguyen31

OME (Old Man Emu) custom makes combinations of shocks & springs for Land Cruiser; especially for 80's (91-97). Visit www.sor.com/forum for any questions regarding about LC.

Hope this helps,
Frank.

idahodoug

FJ100 -

Chains on the rears are generally the safest recommendation. Clearly you can steer better with them on the front, but in a braking situation this would cause the rears to come around in a spin. Since you can generally decide or control when and at what speed you turn, but you cannot predict when you'll need sudden braking, I go with the rears. I also agree with you that the truck is quite capable w/o chains if you air down to 20psi or so.

IdahoDoug

scifi

I browse that forum every so often but have yet to find any info regarding aftermarket shocks designed specifically for the LC. I realize that many manufactures make shocks for the LC, but I have to agree with Idahodoug & say the stock is the way to go until data from track tests reveal aftemarket shocks to be superior. The LC is an elite vehicle...there's really no reason to believe that the stock shocks aren't top grade and the best for the LC. (BTW, what I meant by OME was "Original Manufacturer's Equipment"...though I've seen Old Man Emu's shocks...good name/marketing ploy).

fj100

Idahodug,

I read somewhere awhile ago that rear chains only on an full-time 4wd vehicle was a no-no.

As far as capable, when the 18 inch snowstorm hit NC, I was out in Jackson Hole, snowboarding and my wife was home by herself. She called and she asked about driving around in the '95 Cruiser and I told her to get out there. She drove around the entire time, no center diff locked, no aired down tires, she thought it hilarious because she was the only women out. SO the '95 lc without chains is very capable.

Reply to 2392- The 100 series is a different vehicle than the 80, as far as on road and family use (size and comfort), yes it is an upgrade however as far as hard core offroad use it is not upgrade unless you are only doing light trails and really fast dirt roads. I bought the 100 because I wanted something different (my former LC's were a (91, 92 and '95) and I wnated a v8, heated seats and center arm rests (silly options but very useful). I would recommend a '99 because rear ac was available and you can still get the rear diff lock. In 2000 they went to a traction control system that utilizes the brake system for sending traction to the wheel that slips. When I am done with my '99 it should be pretty capable - the last upgrade is front and rear arb lockers. That is a couple of years out.

I have the OME shocks and springs and sway away torsion bars and they make a difference, the vehicle does not lean as much or squat and dive on braking and acceleration and it gives you a 1.5 inch lift over stock.

fj100

stever

Scifi, the usual abbreviation is OEM, not OME. Unless you are talking about Old Man Emu.

OEM is defined as "Original Equipment Manufacturer" for some reason - would make more sense to call it "Original Manufacturer's Equipment" to me too. But go with the flow - om mani padme hum :-).

Steve, Host

scifi

ha! yeah, THAT'S what I meant...check out my post time...my son was sick so I was up with him in the middle of the night and decided to browse the forums. (Still no excuse for my original "OME" posting though!) Actually, my wife says that most of the time she has no idea what I'm talking about (whether its my mind, body or speech :-)

Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.

fj100:

At what mileage did you modify your suspension with the OME (got it right this time!) stuff? It looks like they have some good products.

stever

Yeah, you were up early for any time zone, bananas or no bananas :-)

Steve, Host

fj100

I changed out my suspension at 66k miles.

Added info - I would suggest larger tires because if you change out your suspension and not the tires it could look rather funny. I am running BFG AT's, 285/75 R 16 which is basically a 33 inch tire.

mobiweld

Andrew, could you post some pictures of your truck with the 285/75 R 16's. I've got Jaos 18's that I'm probably going to take off and go back to the stock rims. When the tires wear out, I'd like to see what the 285/75 R 16's look like.

Scott
scott@mobi-arc.com

hicaira

They can be run quite well on only one axle (agree with doug - rears first) as long as you do not lock the center diff. If you get bogged down in the deep stuff and the front's start spinning though, lock the diff just until you get moving again.

HiC

loosebottles

Just took delivery of my '03 LC.Looking forward to many years together. Wanting to add a few things to it.Namely wheel locks and a hood protector (OEM) as well as some winter mats front and rear and maybe a cargo net. I've seen a couple of places on the net that sell OEM parts at a discount. Can anyone recommend any stores they've had good experiences with that offer good prices?

Also, does anyone know if "Glass Breakage" can be added if it didn't come installed from Toyota/Port? Is this possibly a relay that is a simple plug in?
Thanks!

ace10

i've used www.1sttoyotaparts.com and www.toyotapartstore.com

bucdaniels

I have a '97 Cruiser w/69K miles. Recently, I noticed small oil stains on my garage floor. I took my vehicle to the dealership for a scheduled oil change and was told that my "rear main seal" is leaking and needs to be replaced.

That was two months ago when I received that feedback. Since that time, I have been using Lucas Oil Stabilizer in my crankcase and have not seen any further evidence of oil leakage or loss of oil pressure.

How long I can delay the recommended repair if I continue to see no visible oil leak? Please advise.

bucdaniels

loosebottles

Just read the owners manual cover to cover. Toyota states:
Install chains on the rear tires as tightly as possible. Do not use tire chains on the front tires. Retighten chains after driving 1/4 to 1/2 mile. (not to exceed 30mph)

hank14

I've been reading many posts on this board, and am also in the market for an older but dependable daily driver SUV/Pickup. I live in a small town, commute 1.5 miles to work, but travel to the mountains 90 miles west of home and also sand hills to the east. Everyone brags on the LC, but I can not find anyone to explain why it is actually so superior to other 4X4 vehicles. Is this just a deep seated emotional attachment, or is this vehicle truly superior and why? the nearest Toyota dealer is 40 miles away. Can I buy parts locally and have repairs done without going there? I am currently inquiring about an '87 and '90 LC. Thanks

aggiebart

Dear LC experts,

I have a 97 LC with 60K, when driving over semi-rough pavement I hear a rattling/squeaking sound coming from my front end, probably the front left tire area.. Could this be a noisy shock absorber? Is there an easy way to rememdy this annoyance?

Also for interior rattles around the dash board area, do you think the dealer can fix those?

Thanks in advance.