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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • I would get a reconditioned ND compressor instead of buying new as it's 1/3 of the price (or less). Have an independent AC shop do the work, or do it yourself. If you truly want another 118K miles out of it, you'll probably have to go with a new compressor, which is difficult to get.

    The dust near the magnetic clutch is probably dirt that collected in the R134a fluid that leaked out of the compressor.
  • Thank you for your reply.

    Here is what I have found thus far for the complete job- install compressor & dryer, evac, flush and fill

    Toyota $1500 part warr 1yr/ labor warr 1yr
    Pep Boys $888 part 1yr/ labor 90 day
    Napa $932 part 3yr/ labor 6 month

    I'm leaning towards Napa but not sure if 6 months coverage on labor is long enough to know if the job was done right. IMHO if the freon is going to leak out it would do so prior to this time, what say you?

    I am a bit concerned as I have seen examples of AC systems never truely recovering from initial failure but don't have any historical data on the FZJ.
  • I also think the comments about financial wherewithal were out of line. This is no place for blind judgements and anyone with the taste and discernment to own an 80 series is good with me.

    Hudson, your description sounds just like the typical belt squeal of an A/C system starting up. The dirt is accumulated around my pulley as well, so perhaps this is normal. Try shooting some belt dressing on your A/C belt and about a minute later starting up the A/C. It may not be this simple, obviously, but I'd hate to see anyone drop money for no reason.

    IdahoDoug
  • Does anyone have information about how to upgrade the data in the 2001 TLC JVC navigation system without paying hundreds of dollars for the upgrade DVD?
  • Can anyone offer any advice on a problem we are having with our 93 TLC with 146K. There are 2 issues which may or may not be related.

    First the auto locks that we had installed with a remote start 4 years ago have started to wortk erratically. Sometimes it works with the fob, and sometimes it won't. The remote start always works. When the locks stop working, you can still hear a click just as when they are working. They usually start working after a couple of days. We replaced the battery in the fob.

    Second problem is about 3 weeks ago, the car started idling a little rougher than usual. Also on 3 different occasions it revved high before it shifted from first to second gear. This seemed to happen after the car was driven for about 10 mins. The rest of the time it shifts fine. We are wondering if this is some kind of electronic problem, or a computer problem. Hope it's not a transmission problem, but we have gotten 146K miles out of it, and we love the car.

    The dealer has had it for 2 days, and they cannot duplicate the problem.

    If anyone has any advice, please share.

    Thanks,
  • I am in Illinois and I am looking for a good deal on a 2002 TLC. Anyone got a good place to find one? Most of the dealers are wanting almost $4K over invoice,...is that a good deal? Thanks in advance for any help.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    Markets are different all over the country. $4000 over may be a good deal in your area but is about $3000 too high (or more) for other areas. If you're willing to travel, you may find better prices.
  • ace10ace10 Posts: 137
    just about any dealer in the DC area will sell $100 to $500 over invoice(as of two days ago). lousy color choices at this point, though. we went with a LX470... much, much, much better buying experience.

    good luck with your search.

    ace
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,676
    but I also wish to ask it here...the 2003 4Runner, Land Cruiser and GX470, from what we have seen, seem to be quite similar, and feel free to correct any misperceptions I may have...what are the pros and cons of each one??? It seems that altho the Land Cruiser has a long term reputation, it seems to be the worst of both worlds...the apparent cost of the Lexus, but without any of the "nice stuff and courtesies" that come with a Lexus (read the Lexus boards and all they talk about is the level of customer service as compared with an "ordinary" Toyota)...any comments would be appreciated...while you're at it, is the Sequoia similar to the above, and where does it fit in...are they not all "full size" SUVs???
  • Idling rough/low is normal after the battery is disconnected which may be the case after the dealer is working on the electricals. This is because the memory of the engine computer is purged with no power. Then it runs on defaults for a half hour or so until the memory is rebuilt. If this was not the case, check the rubber tube from the air cleaner to the engine for cracks - common for this age. Completely remove it and then carefully check the bellows areas for cracks by flexing it. They get hard with age and rough handling during air cleaner changes eventually cracks them and admits air downstream of the airflow meter so the engine gets improper signals.

    On the engine "flaring" between 1 and 2, this is again a simple issue. The item above may also impact this a bit. However, there's a cable to the transmission from the throttle which tells the tranny clutches how fast to operate. The cable stretches over time and the tranny "thinks" you're at a low throttle when you're actually at mid throttle and lets the automatic tranny clutches slip more than is appropriate. The cure is simple. Where this cable's housing mounts to the throttle assembly, it is secured with a threaded rod and a pair of lock nuts. Simply loosen the lock nuts and your goal is to move the cable housing AWAY from the sheetmetal plate it mounts through about the thickness of one of the lock bolts. Then resecure it. I'd also have the tranny fluid changed out as slippage can cause a little extra debris in the fluid that's now in there. This is always a good idea anyhow as the hugely overbuilt tranny you have is a bit clunky but durable, however fixing it is astronomically expensive. $50 worth of tranny service is money well spent.

    If it's never been done, cleaning the throttle body/throttle valve will also dramatically smooth out many tranny foibles on this truck. It can be done with a toothbrush and Fuel Injection intake cleaner (Carb Cleaner is too harsh) on the truck or the dealer will be glad to take your $300 to remove and clean it.

    IdahoDoug
  • The Baby Land Cruiser is here!

    The 2003 4 runner offers a new 240 horse/283 ft.lb V6 as standard, and the 4.7 liter(with 5 speed auto) as an option, and comes with downhill assist, uphill start assist, electronic brake force distribution, optional rear air suspension, torsen center differential with a full lock mode, and full time 4 wheel drive on the V8 model.

    Finally, a less expensive and smaller land cruiser!!
  • Thanks for the advice.

    The Land Cruiser is still at the dealer. They drove it for 3 days before they could get it to "act up". Without looking at the engine, they recommend a new transmission @ $5700. We are going to pick it up, and will try a few other things before resorting to that. We don't really trust this dealer, as he is not really a Toyota dealer, but primarily sells Chevrolet, and some Toyotas. Unfortunately we have to drive at least 2 hours to get to a large city. Can anyone recommend a dealer with a good service department in South Georgia, or North Florida?
  • I've been at the LandCruiser thing for a long time, and even Toyota dealers know little about the Cruiser. Nothing against Toyota's excellent dealer body, but it has always been a limited production vehicle, and their rugged construction means they're rarely in for major work. You're really asking for a hosing at a dealer like you described - he's clueless.

    For $5700, I'll fly both you and your wife to Cancun for a week, pay for my flight to your house, spend 2 hours with your Cruiser and STILL have enough left over for a nice 2 week vacation for my family over Christmas. You're talking about a $4 can of throttle body spray, an old toothbrush, a $3 bottle of liquid graphite, $12 worth of tranny fluid quarts, a piece of duct tape if that tube I mentioned is cracked, and a pair of wrenches and socket set.

    If you've changed the tranny fluid at least once every 50,000 miles and the truck has not been abused beyond belief then your A442F transmission is just fine. You simply cannot kill it. That transmission was only used in '93 and '94 and was taken from a 30,000lb GVW city bus Toyota builds. It is a full-on commercial duty transmission that is quite literally 5 times as heavy as it needs to be in your 6000lb truck. So don't let anyone tell you the tranny's shot. In '95, Toyota beefed up another transmission, which replaced this behemoth until the 80 series ended. It was the A343, I believe.

    My '93 has towed an overweight boat trailer all over the US, has 120,000 on it and shifts today just like it did the day I drove it off the showroom. It's always been a little clunky as that massive gearbox tries to masquerade as a smooth light duty passenger vehicle transmission and it often betrays its heritage.

    I could go on, but you get the idea. Where will I be flying to, by the way?

    IdahoDoug
  • In regard to your lock problem - I've had a few alarms installed in my cars in the past. When ever I have a problem with one, after checking the "clicker" battery, I climb under the dash and check the after market connections. I have found that the "factory trained" alarm installers either wrap the connections together with tape or sometimes crimp them - but horribly. In other words check the wiring and ground.
  • lpc68lpc68 Posts: 45
    Is the 91 LC transmission as solid as the 93 and 94 that you mention?

    thanks
  • The 91-92 was an A440 according to a friend on another Cruiser list. I know less about it, but something about Toyota numerical systems. I suspect the A440 was the same basic H.D. transmission as the A442, reflecting its modification for the 4.5L engine that replaced the 4.0 starting in '93.

    So, yes it is as solid.

    IdahoDoug
  • I am considering purchasing my first Land Cruiser. My budget is within a 1999 or 2000. The question is, is the electronic brake force distribution, active traction control, and vehicle skid control worth going to the 2000. I have found a nice 1999 but am concerned about not getting the 2000 improvements. Or, are these really necessary? Any help on this decision would be greatly appreciated.
  • Can anyone help me with what I should pay over wholesale for a "good condition" '99 or '00 Land Cruiser with average mileage. I am a first time buyer and don't want to over pay but am willing to pay fair market value, whatever that is. Any help would be appreciated.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    2000 was the first year that the Active-Trac system came out. I think it is well worth it. You might want to read up on this at the topic "Toyota 4WD Systems Explained" here in the SUV conference.
  • Help please! My LX450 with 98K miles has the check engine light on. The Lexus dealer mechanic has diagnosed "defective convertors...incorrect convertor flow , need to replace convertors".
    There are (2) convertors one at a cost of $400 and the other at $1400 ! ouch! Could it be something else ? Maybe (1) of the convertors not both ? An oxygen sensor ?
  • Have noticed upon inspection that Land Cruisers tires wear very unevenly. The outside edges of the tires seem to wear out about 2x quicker than the inside edges. Has anyone else noticed this and what could be the cause?
  • What state are you in? Also, I'd ignore this ludicrous fix. Take it to a Toyota dealer and ask them what the error code is on the vehicle's OBD II diagnostic output. Many good independent mechanics also can tell you this. Replace BOTH cats? What a crock - they both went bad on the same day? Yeeesh.

    Find out from another source what the code is without telling them what the other dealer says. If a cat is having problems, the best thing you could do is put a tank of premium Chevron gas in it and go for a 250 mile freeway drive to let the cats burn themselves clean again.....

    As for tire wear, I have owned 3 LandCruisers and they were all incredibly easy on tires since they're all full time 4WD (power is distributed equally to all tires all the time). If the outside edges are worn, that would indicate aggressive driving and low tire pressures.

    IdahoDoug
  • Thanks for the support, and advice. We are now located in Douglas,GA. We relocated from Utah a year ago. We picked up the cruiser on sat. My husband will be spending some "quality time" with it next week when he returns from his trip.

    Olizer-Thanks also for the advice on the door locks, we will try it.
  • Because of the expense of replacing the catalytic converters, definitely get the dealer to verify this being the problem by reading the OBDII codes as recommended by Idahodoug. If the converters need replacing, another alternative to using factory parts is to have a reputable muffler shop build you a custom replacement exhaust system. A good shop can build you an excellent system at a fraction of the cost of the factory parts.
  • Padevlin, the most obvious cause is your alignment. The tires on my 200 LC, which I try to rotate every 5000 miles, were wearing out pretty evenly. At about 47K miles, I noticed uneven wear (excessive on outside) on the front passenger side tire. Interestingly, it turned out that the Toe on my driver side tire was off. The Camber and Caster were fine on both sides.
  • I asked because California vehicles have a longer emission warranty. I don't buy this at all. I'm in an international Cruiser club for 91-97 models (80 series) and I have never heard of a cat needing replacement. Most club members have over 150,000 hard miles, a couple dozen over 200k and a few over 300k. Take it on a road trip afternoon. Then disconnect the battery or 30 minutes to reset the engine light.

    IdahoDoug
  • IdahoDoug/erinsquared,

    Thanks for help. I reside in Illinois.When the light first started coming on I would disconnect the battery and imeddiately reconnect.The light would stay off for up to 200 miles but gradually would stay off for shorter and shorter number of miles. What does leaving it disconnected for 30 minutes do? Also..I'm not aware of Chevrons in the area.What about premium Mobil or Citgo? I have been using lowest grade...could that be contributing to the problem?
    In the end if I go the custom exaust replacement route do I have to be concerned with the oxygen sensors functioning properly with cats that are not factory?
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Posts: 238
    A custom exhaust will net you nothing but a lighter wallet. The OEM exhaust will more than likely last the life of the vehicle. Aftermarket cats are available for much less money should you decide to replace them.
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    If you've been putting crap gas in it since new, that would explain some crudding of the cats and oxygen sensors. If it's used mainly around town, then even more crudding. If you can't find a Chevron, then go to an auto parts store and purchase some Chevron Techron Concentrate (not just Techron). Put it in the tank and also do a long highway drive soon to help the cats burn themselves clean - that's the way they are designed to work. Don't use crap gas all the time - supplement a tank of premium national brand every 3rd tank or so.

    IdahoDoug
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