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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • Aside from the usual service records, look at the Birfields to see if they're either dry or runny. They should have a light accumulation of grease. Runny means needs new seals ($600/side), and dry may mean out of lube in there ($$$).

    When you get one, do a search for "80s Cool" and find out more about your truck.

  • what is the largest tire I should put on a stock 97 TLC? 105k and neeing some new shoes. Thanks!
  • Dunno about should, but the largest tire you can run without a lift and not rub over every bump is 285 75.
  • Thank you for your response. That info seems to be hard to come by. Do you think that the design of a 97 TLC is a safe design? The new Toyota Trucks are being touted as very safe in crash tests...
  • 1995 w/ 118k miles
    took the rig in today because of occasional 2-3 second squeal when AC compressor engages.

    Service desk quoted me $1500 for compressor, clutch assy & filter/ drier.

    I asked to see the tech that conducted the diagnosis, some 18 yr old kid arrived.

    I asked him why compressor and not just clutch- "the clutch is bad and it wobbled which wore out the rod and bearings in the compressor... sometimes when we remove the clip that holds on the clutch assy it breaks in two....". Thinking that I was being fed a cookie cutter answer (or a line) I asked about the brown dust (keep in mind that this dust is limited to the immediate area of the clutch assy and resembles break or clutch dust) his answer was that it was road grime, needless to say I had heard enough from Jr. In fact once the Service Desk guy heard the lines I was being fed, he (Mr Desk) recommended that I leave my rig there until tomorrow so the normal mech (absent today) could check it out.

    Here is my thought and subsequent ????'s

    Replace the clutch and hope the compressor is good.
    1. Will the system need to be evacuated?
    2. Are there special tools or tricks I need to know?
    3. If I get in there what are indicators that the compressor needs to be replaced?

    Thanks in advance
  • I have also heard that once the AC system is worked on it is never the same. Is this the case or can I expect reliability? How can I best ensure a good job that will last another 118k?

    Saw another FZJ80 in the same dealer for a $10k new motor- ouch! To think that I thought that syn oil was expensive.
  • The best way to ensure the AC system for another 118k is to get it done by a professional. $1500 for getting the AC fixed on a 95 TLC is not excessive. You can always save a few bucks yourself, but you seem unsure. If you can't afford the $1500 bucks, then you can't afford TLC.
  • Let the pros do it. Trust me...the kid is probably more capable.
  • Mr Plano- Thank you for your concern of my financial status and well being, what I cannot afford is uninformed decision making, hence my inquiry in this forum. In the future kindly spare me your pearls of financial wisdom that you bravely spew from behind your monitor.

    Wishnhigh1- After further thought I agree with you that when it comes to the AC let the pro's do it. To clarify my position with "the kid" I did not question his ability, just his thought process and articulation in the diagnosis.

    As for those like myself who are here as LC enthusiasts, my suspicions were confirmed. In cases where the clutch assy is faulty for extended periods of time it will damage the compressor but mine will probably be OK (of course there is no telling). Each case is different, but the guaranteed fix or school solution is to replace the whole package.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Let's play nice!

    I don't think tedplano intended to be offensive though it's conceivable one might misinterpret his intent. Let's not jump to hasty conclusions about the intent of others as this medium is less than perfect at conveying ideas and information.

    I recommend a little more tolerance.

    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • I would get a reconditioned ND compressor instead of buying new as it's 1/3 of the price (or less). Have an independent AC shop do the work, or do it yourself. If you truly want another 118K miles out of it, you'll probably have to go with a new compressor, which is difficult to get.

    The dust near the magnetic clutch is probably dirt that collected in the R134a fluid that leaked out of the compressor.
  • Thank you for your reply.

    Here is what I have found thus far for the complete job- install compressor & dryer, evac, flush and fill

    Toyota $1500 part warr 1yr/ labor warr 1yr
    Pep Boys $888 part 1yr/ labor 90 day
    Napa $932 part 3yr/ labor 6 month

    I'm leaning towards Napa but not sure if 6 months coverage on labor is long enough to know if the job was done right. IMHO if the freon is going to leak out it would do so prior to this time, what say you?

    I am a bit concerned as I have seen examples of AC systems never truely recovering from initial failure but don't have any historical data on the FZJ.
  • I also think the comments about financial wherewithal were out of line. This is no place for blind judgements and anyone with the taste and discernment to own an 80 series is good with me.

    Hudson, your description sounds just like the typical belt squeal of an A/C system starting up. The dirt is accumulated around my pulley as well, so perhaps this is normal. Try shooting some belt dressing on your A/C belt and about a minute later starting up the A/C. It may not be this simple, obviously, but I'd hate to see anyone drop money for no reason.

  • Does anyone have information about how to upgrade the data in the 2001 TLC JVC navigation system without paying hundreds of dollars for the upgrade DVD?
  • Can anyone offer any advice on a problem we are having with our 93 TLC with 146K. There are 2 issues which may or may not be related.

    First the auto locks that we had installed with a remote start 4 years ago have started to wortk erratically. Sometimes it works with the fob, and sometimes it won't. The remote start always works. When the locks stop working, you can still hear a click just as when they are working. They usually start working after a couple of days. We replaced the battery in the fob.

    Second problem is about 3 weeks ago, the car started idling a little rougher than usual. Also on 3 different occasions it revved high before it shifted from first to second gear. This seemed to happen after the car was driven for about 10 mins. The rest of the time it shifts fine. We are wondering if this is some kind of electronic problem, or a computer problem. Hope it's not a transmission problem, but we have gotten 146K miles out of it, and we love the car.

    The dealer has had it for 2 days, and they cannot duplicate the problem.

    If anyone has any advice, please share.

  • I am in Illinois and I am looking for a good deal on a 2002 TLC. Anyone got a good place to find one? Most of the dealers are wanting almost $4K over invoice, that a good deal? Thanks in advance for any help.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    Markets are different all over the country. $4000 over may be a good deal in your area but is about $3000 too high (or more) for other areas. If you're willing to travel, you may find better prices.
  • ace10ace10 Posts: 137
    just about any dealer in the DC area will sell $100 to $500 over invoice(as of two days ago). lousy color choices at this point, though. we went with a LX470... much, much, much better buying experience.

    good luck with your search.

  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    but I also wish to ask it here...the 2003 4Runner, Land Cruiser and GX470, from what we have seen, seem to be quite similar, and feel free to correct any misperceptions I may have...what are the pros and cons of each one??? It seems that altho the Land Cruiser has a long term reputation, it seems to be the worst of both worlds...the apparent cost of the Lexus, but without any of the "nice stuff and courtesies" that come with a Lexus (read the Lexus boards and all they talk about is the level of customer service as compared with an "ordinary" Toyota)...any comments would be appreciated...while you're at it, is the Sequoia similar to the above, and where does it fit in...are they not all "full size" SUVs???
  • Idling rough/low is normal after the battery is disconnected which may be the case after the dealer is working on the electricals. This is because the memory of the engine computer is purged with no power. Then it runs on defaults for a half hour or so until the memory is rebuilt. If this was not the case, check the rubber tube from the air cleaner to the engine for cracks - common for this age. Completely remove it and then carefully check the bellows areas for cracks by flexing it. They get hard with age and rough handling during air cleaner changes eventually cracks them and admits air downstream of the airflow meter so the engine gets improper signals.

    On the engine "flaring" between 1 and 2, this is again a simple issue. The item above may also impact this a bit. However, there's a cable to the transmission from the throttle which tells the tranny clutches how fast to operate. The cable stretches over time and the tranny "thinks" you're at a low throttle when you're actually at mid throttle and lets the automatic tranny clutches slip more than is appropriate. The cure is simple. Where this cable's housing mounts to the throttle assembly, it is secured with a threaded rod and a pair of lock nuts. Simply loosen the lock nuts and your goal is to move the cable housing AWAY from the sheetmetal plate it mounts through about the thickness of one of the lock bolts. Then resecure it. I'd also have the tranny fluid changed out as slippage can cause a little extra debris in the fluid that's now in there. This is always a good idea anyhow as the hugely overbuilt tranny you have is a bit clunky but durable, however fixing it is astronomically expensive. $50 worth of tranny service is money well spent.

    If it's never been done, cleaning the throttle body/throttle valve will also dramatically smooth out many tranny foibles on this truck. It can be done with a toothbrush and Fuel Injection intake cleaner (Carb Cleaner is too harsh) on the truck or the dealer will be glad to take your $300 to remove and clean it.

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