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Toyota Land Cruiser

1969799101102169

Comments

  • The 285 / 75 / 16 A/T Revo's fit very well and look great. They are quite quiet so far and fill up the wheel wells nicely. Thanks for the assistance.
  • I'm looking for a 2003 new or late model low mileage used Cruiser without nav or DVD. I live in a city (Spokane) where there are very few Cruisers at the local dealers, and they all come loaded. I'm willing to go to California, Colorado, Oregon, Utah, Montana or Idaho to get what I want. Any suggestions?
  • albivalbiv Posts: 35
    I found this on EBay and was wondering if anyone has heard of this or tried it.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14946&- amp;item=3047809635
  • My alternator just packed up but the battery is fully charged. Could I drive this thing over the weekend until the new alternator arrives Monday?
  • albivalbiv Posts: 35
    I have a 2003 TLC with 2500 miles. I am beginning to notice what could be the beginnings of the clunking noise in the drivetrain that other members have experienced. I am concerned because the TLC is only 3 months old. I really don't hear a clunking noise, but there is definitely some slack somewhere when I accelerate from a dead stop or when I come to a complete stop. It happens about 1/3 of the time. I have tried starting from 2nd gear and have not experienced the slack. I notice at times when shifting from forward to reverse or vice-versa that there is a clunk in the transmission, not sure if this is related. I have also tried shifting to neutral before coming to a dead stop and I have not experienced the slack when I stop nor when I accelerate. I am going to take it to the dealer next week due to the throttle body having to be replaced per a letter I received from Toyota and I will have them look at this slack problem. Any insights would be appreciated in case thy tell me this is normal
  • rbrrbr Posts: 106
    We have a 2000 Land Cruiser and have had the pleasure of owning three different "Lexi"(ES 250, 300 and GS300), so I maybe can help a bit. The LC design is a bit older than the GX design, but I am still amazed at how well the LC is designed -- its very well thought out. We have had ours for 3 1/2 years and the only problem we have had was a fuel sensor "thingie" that was covered under our platinum extended warranty (we are risk-averse).

    I'm sure you know that the LX and GX are essentially "souped up" Land Cruisers and 4Runners, respectively. I got in a 2003 LX470 recently an, other then a re-designed center console (mostly for style and to fit the NAV system), and maybe a few relatively insignificant features, it was basically the same thing as my LC.

    The real difference, IMHO, is the service. Loaner cars and not sitting in a busy service department waiting room fighting with Grandma and Grandpa to get their Camry serviced have real value, to me. That's an intangible, but it wasn't worth the 8,000 upcharge for the LX 470.

    Hope this helps.
  • I have a 98 LC and a problem with the driver power window. When you pull the window switch to perform an "auto up" the window rises to the top, then immediately lowers about halfway! Does this every time. Anyone seen this problem before?

    Any advice appreciated!!

    rcman
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Greetings gents, my first post here. Can anyone tell me what the most recent year is for the TLC with solid axles fore and aft, and locking axle differentials? I'm thinking 1991??

    Thanks! I'm looking to augment my stable.
  • I have a 2000 LC, and experienced the same thing but at 42000 miles. It turned out that the driveshaft yoke needed lubricated. The service manager also asked if I had towed anything, because sometimes the brake caliper can stick after towing. Hope this helps.

    Mark
  • The most recent live axle Cruiser in the USA is the 1997 fzj80.
  • I too have the clunk and was told by one Toyota mechanic that it was normal.... I am not happy with this answer and would like to hear what your shop says. I too can make the clunk go away by popping it into neutral at the stop, and it seams to happen less when I have a heavy load in the truck or if I stop gradually. If I were you I would grease the slip yoke first but you only have so little miles it should be up to spec already. The break issue stated by mjfloyd1 is interesting too, when I pull the rear wheel off on the left side the disk is loose about the lugs whereas on the right side the disk is tight with no play. As I see it when the wheel is re installed the lug nut pressure will hold the wheel and the disk tight so no issue but I wanted to mention it just in case this is your situation too. In summary my feeling is that not every TLC has the clunk and it must be caused by some common "little" issue that a good mechanic will find... Good luck and please post your findings. Bryan
  • rcman13---

    Just had the same thing happen to me. As you'll notice, there is a gang of switches on the driver's side and it is bought as a module. I had a similar problem with the switch and the entire unit had to be replaced at $250.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    So what years/features are to be avoided with solid axle TLCs? Are there any specific issues to watch out for? I know Land Rovers inside and out but nearly nothing about Land Crushers.

    Comments? I'm hoping for an early to mid 90s model.

    Thanks!
  • Today we picked up our first LC. 03'ThunderCloud with most options and NAV. Test drove the Limited Sequoia but decided on LC despite 11k difference. I got a super deal I think, $700 below invoice. Was offered the extended toyota warranty at $950, but told him that I would think about it. Would you get it? Anyway, very happy with the vehicle and it even fits my garage.
  • Could anyone tell me when the 2004 TLC is coming out. I'm new to the Land Cruiser Forum.
    thanks.
  • Check out Christo's 80 series newbie guide:
    http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

    The one line answer is that '93 to '97 rigs are recommended, but look for head gasket failure on '95 to '97.
  • Just purchased 03 LC. Manual says I have to take to dealership to disable autolock feature (autolocks when moved out of park with ignition running). Isn't there a "code" I can enter myself to disable. Thanks.
  • albivalbiv Posts: 35
    Well I lubricated the driveshaft slip yoke (both of them) as well as the u-joints and I have not heard the clunk yet. They needed grease becasue it took about 10 squirts of the grease gun before the shaft stared telescoping. I did however experience a new noise/thump and wanted to find out if anyone has experienced the same thing. When coming to a complete stop, just before the car stops there is a thump, albeit a small one barely noticeable just before the LC stops. It almost feels like a transmission downshift into 1st gear except I ran the LC only in first gear and experienced it as well so I know it's not a downshift. It doesn't happen in reverse nor does it happen when the 2nd gear start button is engaged. Maybe this is normal and I'm just a head case (my head is going clump/thump) but I would like to know if anyone else has this anomaly on their truck.

    Thanks
  • If you saw the shaft moving after greasing the zerks, you need to let some grease out. You're endangering the health of your transfer case by not allowing the driveshaft to compress.

    Drivetrain thump is very common.
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    I thought I had read here that you should apply grease until the shaft just starts to telescope, although I have been hesitant to do that to mine, so I just gave it 4 or 5 pumps. Any clarification of this?
  • Just purchased 03 LC. Manual says I have to take to dealership to disable autolock feature (autolocks when moved out of park with ignition running). Isn't there a "code" I can enter myself to disable. Thanks.
  • Well I survived the weekend and got a replacement alternator - is $333 a fir price - seems expensive to me, whats the new price?
  • fj100fj100 Posts: 97
    Hey, I had my '91 LC alternator rebuilt for like $75 bucks. Look up alternator reduilds in the phone book. This was in Raleigh, NC like 5 years ago.

    Regards,

    fj100
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    A replacement alternator is $300-$400 but what needs replacing? The only "moving" parts are the bearings and brushes, and you might as well replace the diodes too. I don't know why any capable alternator shop couldn't do this job.

    Can anyone explain the difference between an 80 and a 100 for me? I'm in the market for solid axles, coil springs and hopefully lockers. I want around a '93 to '95. What's my best choice?

    I drive a Rover now and use it extensively offroad. I want to replace my wife's ride with something bigger and cushier but with "similar" capability. We're in snow and snot half the year and 4WD is really important here. She loves the taught, solid feel of the Rover and I'm hoping to find that in the TLC as well. I want something that will last nearly forever.

    Comments? Remember this is HER ride, so it has to be user-friendly. But I want it as simple as possible and I want it to be tough. I'm considering another Rover for her, but my kids are big enough now they don't fit the back seat well. The added wheelbase of the TLC seems to fit the ticket, as does its offroad ability.
  • Wanted to thank all of you for the valuable information. Haven't posted, but have been reading for a while as I searched for a deal. Got a '99 with all the bells and whistles, 80k with all maint records for $22.5k Seemed like a steal compared to the others I looked at. Shooting for 200k at least.

    Only problem I have is the cup-holder cover has come off... screws loosened. Noticed that in a lot of the test drives I've taken. The way the hinge works, I don't see any way to screw it back on without taking the console apart. Any quick tricks to getting that done?

    Thanks again.
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    You can pop off the cover around the gearshift , which is held in place by 4 clips. The cupholder is attached to that cover. It is still a really tight fit to tighten the screws, but it can be done. Try to get ahold of a manual that shows where the clips are- it makes all the difference in the world to prevent damage to the trim.
  • I had the same problem with the cup holder... The console cover around the shifters just snaps off with out too much trouble and then you have good access to the cup holder. The trouble I had was the screws and springs at the hinges were small and tough to get aligned etc. but after +/-hour I had it back in and working. Look around the opening after removing the holder and if your lucky you will find the screws down there.

    As far as the 100 vs 80 question, the 80 is the front and rear solid axle but only 6 cyl., the 100 is the one for your wife IMO, it has the IFS for better ride and the 8cyl for quiet effortless power. The 80 is built like a tank and has quite a following but in my opinion is under powered and noisy when accelerating. Both have center and rear locker options. 100 came out in 98, I bought a 99 and love it. Good luck.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Then the 80 is the next closest thing to my underpowered and built like a tank Land Rover!

    ;)
  • Hey, been busy with other stuff for awhile, nice to see you over here. The key change on the 80 series after the 4.5L 6 came with a raft of upgrades in '93 happened in 95. For 95 through the end of the run, it got a smoother but lighter duty auto tranny, airbags, and a smaller radiator.

    I feel the ideal year for value and features would be a '94 with factory lockers and the third seat package. Look at Christo's site for things to check, of course. And don't worry about the 4.5 being underpowered compared to your Rover. Toyota's ad for this new engine in Australia back then was that the new LandCruiser 6 had more torque at idle than the Rover V8's peak. Rover threatened legal action, but was rebuffed.

    If you like the way your Rover drives, you'll LOVE the way the 80 drives. Get some used steel Toyota Sequioa wheels for winter use up there. Plenty of those around.

    IdahoDoug
  • I have a 97 LX 450. It has only the center locking differential. The lowest traction situation I would be in in central New Jersey will be heavy snowfalls like last winter. Under what conditions would I want to use "L". I presume the center diff is only locked when it is in "L". I have been told in earlier posts that the high range full time 4WD will handle any snowfall. Thanks.
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