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Taurus/Sable Starting or Stalling Problems



  • There must be a problem with your spark plug.It must be gaining moisture and hence don't tend to start at the first time.Also check the fuel pump as this could also be creating problems for your car to start.
  • my daughters 2004 taurus has been towed to the dealer ship 4 times in the last couple of weeks. they replaced the fuel pump twice. returned to us women each time saying its fixed,or they can't find anything wrong with it.dies on my daughter everytime she runs around in it.any ideas? mas? catalytic converter? what are these idiots missing at the ford service center?
  • I have a 2001 Sable, 90,000 mles, increasingly getting harder to start when engine is cold. At first I had to crank 2 long times to get it started. Now it takes 3. Once the engin is hot, I fires just fine with 1 short crank. I do have a check engine light, code indicates the loss of a vacuum seal to the gas tank (P1451). However warning light came on 6 months, The problem starting has happened recently. Any Ideas? I want to get to the bottom of it before winter hits. If left alone, I beleive the problem will get worse and worse until it wont start at all
  • I belive i can help you on that issue. i have a 2001 Ford Taurus S.E.S. and it did the exact same thing o me. okay one your fule pump is going out. its a costly item . mine was done at the original place i got my car but cost me over $800. They need to pull the fuel pump and test it to make sure it works . The fule pump is not putting out the needed pressur eof fule that is required for your car to accelerate.
  • tmathews1tmathews1 Posts: 2
    edited April 2011
    ok this has happened 4 times now i would drive somewere car running great shut it off and it would not start back up again it would roll over and fire acted like it was low on gas... it had gas it had great gas pressure had good spark on all 6 plugs... then like a hour later it would start back up the last time it happened when it started it ran really rough until i go past 30-40 mph then smoothed out so its still miss fireing and it is still running rough today... every time it happened it would start up with a bad lifter tick until 5 min or so past happened everytime and that car has never had a lifter tick.... no check engine light even wile running rough and yes the light does work it comes on when i turn key on my buddy had a 200 dollar computer code tester thing it came back with bad o2 sensor, bank 2 sensor 2 but ive had them go bad before and the vehicle has always started... f fuel pump is running with lots of pressure good spark clean air filter just done a tune up plugs wire ect. i com from a family were weve always worked on our own vehicles i know a little my dad knows a little my dad brother knows allot of a little i guess we know as mutch as anyone else would know that has never seen this problem the vehicle is a 2001 ford taurus se with the 3.0 v6 and i cannot figure this problem out tommorow im changin the temp sensor ive seen that happen before that go bad and have running problems so ill let ya know errrrrrrrrrrr soooo frustrating.... thx guys plz reply...
  • what happened to the days were if u had gas spark and air ure vehicle was running...
  • don350don350 Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 taurus with the same problem any ideas did youir figure it out??
  • somegrlsomegrl Posts: 1
    I might be beating a dead horse, but, I've been having the same stalling/starting issues with my 95 Ford Taurus. Recently I took it to the mechanic, the fuel pump was shot, as I had guessed, so I had it replaced. This has resolved the starting issue, as previously when it sat for more than 6hrs it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine, but I can still feel it wanting to stall out when the car is in drive, idling. I know the car needs a tune up badly, it still has all spark plugs and wiring, any other ideas? I just dropped $375 on the fuel pump replacement, I'd like to try to keep this to as much of a minimum as I can.
  • ez49ez49 Posts: 2
    I have a similar problem. I replaced the starter, the battery, the battery terminals, the rotor, and distributor cap, the ignition control module was tested and tested good. Does anyone have any suggestions? It has no spark from the distributor to the plugs.
  • Your coilpack might be bad. At night, try starting the car with the hood open and check to see if there is any electrical arching at the coil pack or spark plug wires.
  • ez49ez49 Posts: 2
    I did check the cables, and found that arcing occurring.

    However, the car did overheat once before it died. Someone told me that when the engine overheated a crack may have occurred, which maybe what is causing the engine to loose compression and not turn over. I don't know where the crack may have occurred. Does anyone know how to check this? Were would the crack a seal, on the engine block (compression cylinder)....

  • charger3charger3 Posts: 209
    Sounds like your injectors are leaking you shut the car off they leak the engine is flooded it will finally start. Drive it at 30 to 40 cleans the plugs off and it runs good. And for anyone that has a bad check valve in the pump the pressure is good but the gas leaks back into the tank and you have to crank and crank to get it started or turn the key on for five seconds to run the pump and then turn off and on again for five seconds after the 3rd try you crank it. It usually starts right up then you know your pump is bad
  • stark1990stark1990 Posts: 2
    I bought a used 2007 Taurus with 56k on it. I've had it for a month now and I've taken it back to the dealership twice now because it keeps stalling. I don't know what causes it but the RPMs dip lower than normal and thats what it sounds like before it stalls. I've noticed it only does it when it's hot, the AC is running. When it stalls, the gauges on the dash all twitch for a while. I try pushing the gas after it does this but nothing happens. Sometimes after it twitches the gas gauge reads that there is more gas in there than before. I once had almost half a tank then it stalls, when I turned it back on it read a full tank. It doesn't matter how much gas I have when it happens. The dealership has cleaned the Throttle body, but that didn't help. I've tried recreating the situation but I can't find out what exactly causes it. It happens when I'm at a stop or going less than 20MPH.

    If anyone has ANY information on this problem, please help. I would really like this problem fixed!
  • partsman7partsman7 Posts: 1
    I would suspect the IAC (idle air control) motor. Fords have an idle issue that will cause them to die when pulled up to a stop sign sometimes you hear a sound like the horn honking, thats the air valve shutting off when it should stay open, it is caused by carbon generally and is best just to change the IAC. usually 3 screws easy access.
  • ken176ken176 Posts: 1
    I have the exact same thing happening to my 07 Taurus!! Have you figured it out yet???
  • No, not yet. But they are finally getting somewhere. They let me drive it with the flight recorder for a few days. It stalls randomly so I didn't know when it would happen, but it seemed to happen after I filled up with gas and topped off. They took the flight recorder with the info on it and talked to Ford. I'm taking my car in next week and they are going to do some tests on it and once I figure out what it was/is I will post it on here.
  • I'm hoping someone can help me with my '93 Mercury Sable (V6 3.8L GS) It started today with no problems and I drove it to school and back home before going back to school. Two hours later, I try to start it and it clunks when trying to turn over. After a few times of the clunking, it starts but idles very rough and when I drove forward it was like I was driving over short bumps. Worse yet, in the headlights my brother sees a trail of fluid of some sort from the driver side, but no luck finding leaks tonight. Any help is appreciated.
  • I have a 1994 Mercury Sable with a 3.8L that will not start. I have spark and car will run on starting fluid. Thought fuel pump at first but system has plenty of pressure. After checking the injectors I relized I do not have any injector pulse. Replaced the CCRM but still no injector pulse. Does anyone have any ideas?
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