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Taurus/Sable Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • sounds like that was a real honest tranmission shop selling a $125 new torque converter for $650 and then charging $200 labor to install it you got a real good deal
  • I have a problem with my transmission.

    Car is 1995 Taurus with OD automatic and 3.8 engine

    My daughter was driving on the freeway for about two hours when the car stopped going. Engine would rev up but tranny was slipping. She pulled over and a kind man helped her.

    He check tranny oil level and put several quarts of fluid in before the level showed up on the dipstick. He told me It was leaking fluid where the pump seal would be. It had a huge puddle under the car when I got there. The car would move but slip real bad.

    I got it home on a tow dolly and check the fluid and topped it off. Started the car and looked underneath and not a drop was leaking. ????

    It would go in reverse with no slipping. In OD it feels like it is in 3rd gear, in drive feels like 2nd gear and when the gear lever is in L, it is in low gear.

    car shifts OK if I manually move the lever thru the gears, but it will not downshift or upshift on its own when in OD.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance

    Mike
  • taurus_ownertaurus_owner Posts: 4
    edited August 2011
    I went to the dealer in Sept 2010 and they charged $180.00 for the New torque converter and $70.00 for the pump shaft and $20.00 for a special gasket. The rest was a bunch of labor which involved a lot of flushing with a solvent followed by 30 quarts of Transmission fluid.

    I recently noticed a puddle of transmission fluid on the ground in early August. I got under my 2003 Taurus only to find the leak was coming from ABOVE the AX4N Transmission pan. I tracked it to the Transmission filler/dip-stick tube.

    But I learned that it was caused by a clogged transmission air vent (coated steel) having a rubber check valve cap being stuck per the links below.

    http://www.ford-forums.com/post104714.html


    http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/128662-removing-old-atx-ve- - nt-won-t-budge.html

    I followed the Technical Service Bulletin showed below to remove the straight press-fit vent with a 90 degree vent and 5/16" hose:

    TSB 06-18-13

    09/18/06
    ERRATIC FLUID LEVEL READING ON TRANSAXLE
    DIPSTICK - LEAKS - 4F50N,AX4N, AX4S

    The reason I mentioned this was to ask, could this cheap vent valve being stuck open have caused last year's torque converter failure by introducing moisture into the transmission internals?
  • Not sure if this has already been posted, but my '97 Ford Taurus will not shift into reverse, 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears. It will go into neutral. My hubby drove it Monday to work. He stopped to get a drink at a gas station. When he got back into the car and started it again, would not go into gear. When we checked the fluid, there was plenty of it. What could this be?? I am new here and any and all responses are welcome!!!!!! Thanks!
  • linnglinng Posts: 2
    Hello: Car has 85K miles on it. Just had transmission flush and mechanic (one we trust) said we might make it to 150K on the car, but he found lots of metal pieces in the transmission when he cleaned it up. Car has been slipping, now we probably know why. We've spent close to $4500 on this car in the past year (that does include some regular maintenance). It is worth $3500 (KBB good condition).

    Now also needs a new oil gasket ($450). Trying to decide whether to take to Ford dealer and spend more $$ on diagnosis (we've always taken it to an independent mechanic), or whether to take it to CarMax and get cash. We enjoy not having a car payment but this is getting to be expensive. Would love your input! Thank you!
  • linnglinng Posts: 2
    Cancel post--traded the car in today!
  • I was wondering if you ever found out what happened?the reason on why I ask is because my car just did the same thing and this is the only post I found with the same problem thanks.
  • I have a 2002 Ford Taurus, which I love....BUT...I'm doing my THIRD transmission job!!!! It currently have 93,000 miles and the first job was at 38,000. What I found out just today is the Taurus and Sable have an inherent heating problem that cause the transmissions to die. The new transmission mechanic (receommended) said I need a rebuild AND and external transmission cooler. Allegedly the radiator cooler is not sufficient for these two and is always a must whenever dealing with tranny issues. I guess the thieves over at AAMCO didn't know this ever of the other two times I went to them.
  • tywitywi Posts: 10
    In warm weather the transmission shifts like it should. In cold weather 30's degrees and below it takes about about 5 minutes running the car before the transmission will shift from first gear to drive. This has been happening for many years. the car now has about 50,000 miles on the rebuilt transmission. any ideas would be appreicated.
  • mrf350mrf350 Posts: 1
    We were at a kids show 1 night & on the way home the engine reved up but we were slowing. We just lost the tranny, every gear. bought another tranny from a junk yard they asked for info like vin # motor & letters & no. that were stamped into pan. Now our check engine light keeps comining on my mech. says cruise control senser problem. Maybe something to do with computer & tranny not matching. We bought this car this spring & have sank alot of money into it, from plugs to o2 sensors. Never getting better then 19mpg. Any ideas.
  • shelgrlshelgrl Posts: 5
    Yes, GET RID OF IT! Mine did the same things, also revved up and the tranny let go. One problem after another, sinking tons of money into it and was still paying on it. Check engine light was always on, sensors going all the time, tranny and starter went at the same time, tranny went 2 times in less than a month from each other, computer problems and not functioning properly giving weird readings on gas in car and miles, etc, crankshaft synchronizer, etc. I never could get my car (05 Mercury Sable) to get good gas mileage. 19 mpg would have been the best on a long road trip..usually stayed anywhere between 15 and 17 mpg. Numerous other problems too.
  • rmb0629rmb0629 Posts: 1
    I was in cruise on highway when the rpms started going up and down started slowing down and pulled over would not reverse nor drive what could this be?
  • You need to look up Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 06-18-13 "Erratic Fluid Level Reading on Transaxle Dipstick".

    There is a vent fitting with a check valve (rubber cap) on top of the transmission housing near the firewall on the driver's side that sticks and malfunctions closed. This causes pressure to build up and force transmission fluid up and out of the dipstick tube. The replacement vent valve assembly number is 1C3Z-7034-AA and cost me $18.40 w/o tax.

    The hardest part was finding a way to create enough leverage to pull the old vent valve straight up. I did it by using a large pair of vise-grips on the vent fitting, sliding a long screwdriver thru it to rest against a bracket, and then pried straight up on the vise-grips against the bracket.

    You gently tap in the new vent and then attach a two-foot length of 5/16" diameter hose and secure it with cable tie wraps as shown in the TSB.

    Less than $22.00 to fix. Good Luck
  • You need to look up Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 06-18-13 "Erratic Fluid Level Reading on Transaxle Dipstick".

    There is a vent fitting with a check valve (rubber cap) on top of the transmission housing near the firewall on the driver's side that sticks and malfunctions closed. This causes pressure to build up and force transmission fluid up and out of the dipstick tube. The replacement vent valve assembly number is 1C3Z-7034-AA and cost me $18.40 w/o tax.

    The hardest part was finding a way to create enough leverage to pull the old vent valve straight up. I did it by placing a large pair of vise-grips vertically onto the vent fitting, sliding a long screwdriver thru the vise-grips and resting the shaft of the screwdriver against a bracket, and then pried the screwdriver straight up into the closed vise-grips. The vent fitting popped out.

    You gently tap in the new vent and then attach a two-foot length of 5/16" diameter vacuum hose and secure it with cable tie wraps and band-clamps as shown in the TSB.

    Less than $25.00 Total to fix. Good Luck
  • dmr8dmr8 Posts: 1
    I currently own a 2005 SE taurus and am very disappointed in this car. If I could send this car back to the dealership where I purchased it I would. My story starts on November 18, 2004 I needed a car and decided to go to Ford dealership and look to see if they had any quality made cars, well I saw this beautiful green taurus and asked to test drive it. I did and decided to purchase it. I wish I would have investigated this car further because at 9000 miles the transmission had to be rebuilt at a cost of $1,700 dollars which was cover by the warrenty but I dropped the car off at the dealership got and rental and went on my way. They had the car for almost two weeks when I decided to call because at this point I was wondering if I should keep this car. So I called the dealership and without asking me they rebuilt the transmission. I was young and stupid took the car back and continued to drive it. At 69,000 I am on a very busy highway in the high speed lane and I start to loose power the engine is running but I am slowing down so I make my way to the side of the road call the dealership and they tell me it is out of warrenty and I could have it towed in and they will look at it. I am really upset, angry and sorry I ever purchased this car. I finally decided to have it towed around to different shops and find the Amacco works on these cars everyday, week, month and so on. "These cars bring us a lot of business" as stated by the manager of the repair shop. This time only the tourque converter was replaced. Really I say to myself when it was supposely overhauled at 9,000 miles. So I pay out of my pocket 862.00 again to put this car back on the road. So this story gets pretty ugly on December 14, 2012 my transmission blowns up and I guess the third time its a charm. I finally tracked down a transmission and this time forked out 1,000 dollars to purchased it and have it installed. I am so tired of Ford and other companies not standing behind their products. I read your post and it is really UNFORTUNATE that ford is waiting for deaths to occur to correct this problem. How do you think Henry Ford would have handled this problem. My father worked for Ford and would have been ashamed of how this company handles this transmission problem. What is the saying Ford Tough Ford Quality built no# 1 well Ford motor it time to prove it. I am investigating ways and need help to start a Class Action Suite if anyone is willing to help let me know. Thanks for listening and please let me know.
    dmr8
  • Wow, this sounds so similar to what my car was doing..."was" meaning I finally had had enough and traded it in almost a year ago. The problems just continued on my car exactly like yours and wouldn't stop. My car also never got past 19 mpg, had several transmission problems, o2 sensor issues, check engine light never went out, computer problems, lurking forward, etc. The car would also periodically *konk out* on me, etc. When I would get gas it would either not register that I got gas at all and take two days for it to finally register, meaning one day it could say I had 50 miles left on my tank and then the next minute would say I had 100 miles MORE. It was affecting how my car ran, etc. Finally said *enough is enough* and got rid of it. In one year alone I spent over $5,000 in problems and still owed on the car. My advice would be to take a loss and get rid of the car. It's not going to get any better. My mom has a Taurus and is just now starting to experience similar things with her car at 85,000 miles. My car started around 60,000-65,000 miles and when I traded it in it had a little over 100,000 miles on it. The company claims there are no recalls or anything, yet all the garages I've ever talked to and mechanics, as well as AAMCO said these cars always have problems, especially tranny problems. Seriously, if you are tired of shelling out money on this car, I would get rid of it. I'm so much happier now that I did. Good luck to you!
  • Wow, this sounds so similar to what my car was doing..."was" meaning I finally had had enough and traded it in almost a year ago. The problems just continued on my car exactly like yours and wouldn't stop. My car also never got past 19 mpg, had several transmission problems, o2 sensor issues, check engine light never went out, computer problems, lurking forward, etc. The car would also periodically *konk out* on me, etc. When I would get gas it would either not register that I got gas at all and take two days for it to finally register, meaning one day it could say I had 50 miles left on my tank and then the next minute would say I had 100 miles MORE. It was affecting how my car ran, etc. Finally said *enough is enough* and got rid of it. In one year alone I spent over $5,000 in problems and still owed on the car. My advice would be to take a loss and get rid of the car. It's not going to get any better. My mom has a Taurus and is just now starting to experience similar things with her car at 85,000 miles. My car started around 60,000-65,000 miles and when I traded it in it had a little over 100,000 miles on it. The company claims there are no recalls or anything, yet all the garages I've ever talked to and mechanics, as well as AAMCO said these cars always have problems, especially tranny problems. Seriously, if you are tired of shelling out money on this car, I would get rid of it. I'm so much happier now that I did. Good luck to you!
  • I am going through the same thing. What was your resolution?
    Thanks,
    Robin
  • I would check to see if that's a loose belt as the two sounds are often confused, other than that it is most likely the beginning of the end for your transmission. Good luck.
  • This braking problem and the one before sounds like a collapsing power brake vacuum line. The rising rpm could be a vacuum leak as well.
  • i found the torque convertor for 2001 - 2007 ford tarurus @ ADVANCE AUTO PARTS & AUTO ZONE for approx. 100.00 plus tax 2/28/2013
    dont be ripped off ! if the splines on front shaft is in good condition , shaft does not move side to side by hand , turns smoothly by hand , all you need s a torque convertor ! DANNY
  • i own a 2003 focus zx3 with the 2 litre zetec engine.it surges while in motion and gets poor fuel milage.whats wrong with it?
  • hawkechohawkecho Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Merc Sable. I was driving it home with no previous problems, stopped at a stop sign, went to take my turn and strange things happened. I stepped on the gas and the tires stuttered on the road. Like they caught, slipped, caught, slipped, and then again in quick succession. In a matter of moments it happened and then I was through the turn. As I came out of the turn I took my foot off the gas. Everything seemed fine. I accelerated in 1st gear thru to 2nd a little rough, then it didn't want to go into 3rd, simply revving. Eventually I decided not push it any further and found a place to pull over & park. Trans fluid everywhere! Long story short - I got it towed home, found out that the clip that holds the pipe from the trans to the rad had come undone. At the suggestion of a Ford mechanic ("there's no support so eventually they just come undone") we reattached the clip since it wasn't broken and gave the pipe some support with a ziptie (apparently this is all they do and charge $$!). Refilled the trans fluid and tried it out. It backed out of the garage fine. Zipped out of the driveway like always and... very rough shift into 2nd. 3rd refused to happen. Limped home in 1st gear, hazards flashing. Checked all the connectors, wiped them, used a can of degreaser to clean up any oily residue and tried again. Made it up to 60 mph! But it still shifted roughly into 2nd and 3rd would rev & rev, and then with a tiny squeak noise finally engage. Shifts into 4th smooth as glass. Did more checks, ordered the manual - waiting on it. If I drive it gently (ie in no rush at all) it'll usually shift into 2nd easily and 3rd will give a little protest but then goes. If I'm giving it any push it simply revs and revs until it decides to shift. There are no codes and no engine/trans light. Any suggestions? At this point I'm thinking the torque converter may be the problem since it seems to give out randomly on these cars.
  • joeyoung1joeyoung1 Posts: 6
    Let me help you guys out from 2003 mercury sable transmission problems. when you get no codes, but found transmission slip, Please first check out your fuse box and locate your transmission control fuse ( the 15A one ), and turn off the engine , then pull the fuse ( the 15A one ) out , and put it back on again, when you put it back on, pls change the fuse facing side to back side, after doing so, then drive your car for a while , when you drive pls do not make any U turn. after your driving for a while , shut down the engine, then with the transmission Ruler (which is inserted into Ruler testing tube) to check out how much transmission fluid you put in the transmission tank . if the fluid too much, you must get some transmission fluid out from the transmission tank by using a 9 feet host , one end of the host inserted into the transmission Ruler testing tube bottom, the other end of the host ( the host can be as a rubber host , size can be as 5/32 which I am using ) put into a oil bottle , the bottle bottom must be touching on the ground underneath the front bumper, then use your mouth to absorb the transmission fluid out from the end of the rubber host, then immediately put the host end into the bottle which is put on the ground. finally the transmission fluid level must be accurately in between the Ruler range supposed to be, if too little fluid left , you must add a little bit transmission fluid back into the transmission tank. after doing all above, you restart the engine, then drive a short trip, then turn off the engine , and check out the transmission Ruler level again , and again , and re-adjust the transmission level again and again to make it sure that the transmission level the accurately correct, not too much neither too little. after doing all above , then you drive you car out , when you shift to D , pls gently press down your foot onto the gas paddle , then drive you car out , trust me, then you car could be normal without no problems at all.
  • joeyoung1joeyoung1 Posts: 6
    I own a 2003 mercury sable LS premium with 24 valves dohc, when transmission slip happens, but found no codes, your dealer always telling you of so called torque converter not locked up and addition to flush the trans, they just want you to pay them, but not really. for my case example, I found out the reason is (1) the relay fuse number 28 which is a 15A little fuse not properly plugged in , I just pull it out and plugged it in again but only changed the facing side, this 15A little fuse is to control the transmission shifnoid ( 2 ) I found my transmission fluid is too much I get the extra fluid out, cause' the too much fluid in trans after drive 45 minutes in local or traffic in highway it would foam up and push the gears open in transmission , Yes , that's simple!!! however, talk easy do it hard. when I first time did it, I got out too much fluid then because too little fluid, after drove over 45 minutes and trans hot , it started slipping. then I redo it again , added a little fluid back to the trans, this time it won't slip again. ( 3) if your car trans using over 80,000 miles, and found no codes, you are supposed to understand some part of the trans gear is worn out , thus when you make a turn, you can not give gas, but you have to let the car slide by the original speed, and you have to avoid to making U turn, if you do all above, you should not meet any slip on your 2003 mercury sable.
  • joeyoung1joeyoung1 Posts: 6
    why after dumping off too much transmission fluid and made the trans fluid level restrictedly within the ruler range , but still slip happens every now and then but no code?

    the answer is because, your engine oil is over loaded. Last week, I dumped out the extra trans fluid and made the fluid level exactly aimed at the middle of the trans ruler range marking area. however, I still have the problems of the trans slip every now and then to my 2003 mercury sable. I used the Seafoam Cleaner and Lubricant half of one can, spraying into the throttle and poured half of one can of Seafoam Motor Treatment into the engine oil tank, while the tank was cold, to clean my car engine intake, and I poured another one full can of Seafoam Motor Treatment into my gas tank to clean fuel system. But after this, the engine oil is too much, it foamed up the tank room and pushed the trans gears open, then the trans restarted sliping again. That simple? Yes, that's simple!

    You must understand , when your car is old, it is very sensitive to "too much", not only trans fluid level but also engine oil level. when either of the level is too high, then it could result in trans slip.

    Today, I changed my car engine oil. Purposely I reduced the engine oil level to be lower than the highest level range of the ruler marking area. then I test the car driving again, It worked! no more slip again.
  • joeyoung1joeyoung1 Posts: 6
    when you try all above but trans still slips, then you have got to replace the trans fluid and replace the trans filter and replace the trans oil pan gasket. and replacing the trans oil pan is even better . To 2003 mercury sable you may order either your trans oil pan with 17 bolt holes or 19 bolt holes. you may order 265-803(from Autozone) with $44.99 on 19 Bolt Holes Dorman OE Solutions - Automatic Transmission Oil Pan and order TF217 ( from Autozone for trans gasket and filter kit)$17.99 on 19 Bolt holes, total cost $62.98. .

    You may order 265-816 (from Autozone for trans oil pan only)with $52.99 on 17 Bolt Holes Dorman OE Solutions - Automatic Transmission Oil Pan. You may also order TF217 ( from Autozone for trans gasket and filter kit)$17.99 on 17 Bolt holes, total cost $70.98.

    You may also order RPT Shift Pro/Transmission Filter (A/T) from Autozone on 19 bolt holes Filter kit with Green tall lip seal and 19 bolt pan gasket part number 997253 on Transmission model AX4S, with $33.99 plus $44.99 Transmission Code: 4F50N on 19 Bolt Holes Dorman OE Solutions - Automatic Transmission Oil Pan , total cost $78.98

    You may also order RPT Shift Pro/Transmission Filter (A/T) from Autozone on 17 bolt holes Filter kit with Green tall lip seal and 17 bolt pan gasket part number 997250 on Transmission model AX4S , with $33.99 plus $52.99 Transmission Code: AX4S on 17 Bolt Holes Dorman OE Solutions - Automatic Transmission Oil Pan , total cost $86.98

    Then you may order 6 Quarts trans fluid, plus above minimum $62.98. , maximum $86.98, you can replace a brand new trans oil pan and trans fluid filter with Green tall lip seal and trans oil pan gasket.

    You saved the labor fee, and you your self finished the replacement for trans fluid and filter , which would help your car live long.


  • joeyoung1joeyoung1 Posts: 6
    Now, I replaced the transmission filter and fluid, and the trans hesitated slip problem is finally fixed. Yesterday I ordered and installed myself with RPT Shift Pro/Transmission Filter (A/T) from Autozone on 19 bolt holes Filter kit with Green tall lip seal and 19 bolt pan gasket part number 997253 on Transmission model AX4S, with $33.99 then I found the hesitated slip problem is still there and even worse, because the trans filter of above part number 997253 is sucks with a spring inside the filter and thus blocked the fluid flowing, then, I ordered and installed the TF217 ( from Autozone for trans gasket and filter kit)$17.99 on 19 Bolt holes, this times it totally works well, the hesitated slip is gone, never showed up again, the trans is running smoothly always wonderful .but not that easy when I installed it into the trans pan, I found the green seal of the filter is too thick, it is very hard to insert the filter tube with green seal into the entrance hole of the trans. then I took off the green seal from the filter and inserted the green seal into the entrance hole of the trans first, with the plastic handle of the screw driver , I kept punching the exceeded edge of the green seal to be matching with the same level of the entrance hole of the trans , then I inserted the filter tube into the entrance hole of the trans through the green seal.. but the filter was still not yet pushed into the entrance hole totally. I , using some force, covered the pan with the gasket and locked up the pan with the 19 bolts , some of the bolts were hard to be locked up for the filter inside is still a little bit high pushing the pan out , finally I locked them up all with using some force.
  • joeyoung1joeyoung1 Posts: 6
    I do believe that the part number 997253 filter green tall lip seal is too thin, and when I pushed the filter tube into the trans hole entrance, the green tall lip seal was pushed to far into the bottom of the entrance hole of the trans, thus blocked the fluid flowing. later when installed the part TF 217 the green tall lip seal was hanged up at the middle top of the trans entrance hole, thus not yet blocking the trans fluid flowing, that is simple? Yes that's simple
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