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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

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  • Brake light switches have been faulty and recalled twice already with another scheduled for Dec. of this year. It's an easy swap out and I believe the cost of the part is about $20 at the dealer. Good luck...
  • The dealer sells a kit with replacement hose lengths for all your vacuum hoses. Be sure to replace all the vacuum hoses. This may or may not be the cause of the CEL but they are prone to deterioration and should be a relatively inexpensive cost for the kit. Gas caps have not seemed to be an issue with our NBs but I've heard of a couple of turbos with airpump issues. Try the hoses first and possibly save yourself $100 +/- per hour shop labor...
  • To change the vent selector switch, you probably need to access it from below. Pry out the two blanks on either side of the hazard light/ rear def. panel, remove the two screws and let that panel drop. You should be able to see the back sides of all your vent controls...
  • Went through mysterious oil loss years ago on my '99 2.0. Service manager said he wasn't sure of the reason but a switch to synthetic would take care of the problem. I've been using Mobil 1 5w-40w and have had no consumption problems since. Some have attributed the consumption problem to incorrect installation of piston rings (upside down) at factory in Mexico. Problem seems to be greatest at the #3 cylinder (for some elusive reason)...
  • I've had my 2000 Bug for a little more than a month. It was acting fine up until about a week ago when it wouldn't come out of park. The little light that is next to the P isn't going out no matter how much I press on the break. I have read other posts about this problem but no one actually went into details about it, could someone please? Thanks!
  • Your brake light switch located above the brake pedal has failed. You must apply the brake to move the gear selector out of park. Since it's broken, your car doesn't know that you are standing on the brake pedal. This part cost $20 +/- at the dealer. It's a 15 minute job...
  • I have a 2001 Volkswagen Bettle 2.0. When my car idles it idles ruff. Sometimes you will press down on the gas and the car will not go and finally after a few seconds it will go. The rpms on the car is under 1 when it is idling and it used to be above 1. I have got it put on a computer and it would not read. We have changed the spark plugs and wires and checked the fuel filter. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
  • Hey I have a question... I have the 2000 1.8T, and i need to change the spqark plugs but dont know how to find them, do u know where they r or know of a place to look it up?
    thanks tons!
    -Tiff.
  • btldrvrbtldrvr Posts: 1
    You should also check all your brake lights for water intrusion that may be causing excessive current draw on the failed brake switch. To get at the center light, disassemble the inside hatch cover. To get at the rt. and lt. assemblies, there are insert panels inside the trunck.
  • Sir,
    Did you receive a response on this question...for I have the same problem.
    Thanks
    Scooper007
  • I have a Jetta and a friend as a new 2004 bug. They both had a lot of problems including the automatic transmission and going through breaks every 30,000 miles or so. Are these problems fixed with the new 2006? Are there major issues to watch for? In the past you were better off going with the manual over the automatic for reliability is this still the case.

    I am trying to get all my facts as I am looking to get ride of a 2005 accord which has gone through many problems including 2 transmissions in 12000 miles.

    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks :)
  • I am trying to determine what happened to my 2000 Volkswagen Beetle, with 74,432 miles, last weekend when I had some work done. On Friday Aug. 18th I went to start my car in the morning. All dashboard lights came on and there was a “clicking” noise that sounded like it was coming from under the dash board. I thought that my battery was dead. I got someone to jump my car, and we got it running. I then drove the car for 18 miles to a Car X shop, they are a fix-all auto repair place. When I pulled in to their lot I turned my car off and for curiosity reasons tried to start it again, and now nothing happened. I went inside and told then what just happened and they said they would take a look at it and give me a call.

    A few hours later Car X calls me and tells me that I need a new battery. Sounds right to me, and I told them to do it. A few hours later they call and tell me that the car will not run properly and it won’t stay in idle. Car X then tells me that they contacted the Volkswagen dealership and they said that I need to bring my car to them so they can reset the electronic setting to factory standards.

    So the next day I pay for my new battery $126.59, Car X then tells me they tried everything to try to get it working, and I have my car towed to Tom Wood Volkswagen dealership service department. As I bring it in I tell the guy what has happened and he says that if that’s the problem they can fix it 15 minutes. He goes and gets a technician and this gentleman hooks a “computer” up under my dashboard and tells me that is not the problem. He says that the windows and radio should be working and there were not. I then had to wait till Monday till the dealership could get a look at it.

    On Monday my service advisor calls me to tell me that my Throttle Module has gone bad and need a new one. Ok, I agreed to have the work done. A few hours later he calls back saying that when they installed to new throttle module it still wouldn’t work and found that two electronic modules have been completely fried and need to be replaced. WOW, what happened? I asked him what could have caused this. He tells me two things:

    A cross jump
    Laying a tool across the battery

    After waiting a few days for them to order the parts needed he presents me with my $2,271.95 bill!!! My bill reads:

    CUSTOMER STATES THE BATTERY WAS JUST REPLACED.
    READATP THOTTLE MUDULE .5
    DIO W/5052 FOUND A SPRATIC FAULT IN THE THROTTLE MODULE
    OPERATION, DIO FOUND MODULEWAS FAULTY: INSTALLED NEW
    MODULE, WOULD NOT ADAPT; FURTHER INSPECTION FOUND MULTIPLE
    ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IN VEHICLE; UPEN FURTHER TESTING, FOUND
    THAT THE ECM WAS MALFUNCTIONG DUE TO A VOTAGE SPIKE IN
    ELECTRICAL SYSTEM; ALSO FOUND THAT THE CONVIENCE CONTROL
    MODULE HAD BEEN DAMAGED
    INSALLED NEW ECM. INSTALLED NEW CCM. INSTALLED & ADAPTED
    RETESTED-OPERATION TO MANUFACTURER SPECS
    NOTE: CAUSE OF FAILURE REPATED TO VOLTAGE SPIKE WHICH CAN BE CAUSED FORM JUMPT STARTING VEHICLE INCORRECTLY

    I ask him if my jumping the car could have caused this he says no because I then drove the car after the jump and the voltage spike would have to be instant. He then tells me that I should talk to Car X because he thinks that something might have happened there. But when I talk to Car X they deny that they did any thing that might have caused it. So my question is this:

    Did I do something that might have caused the voltage spike?
    Did Car X do something?
    Is it just normal wear and tear and no outside influence caused the damage?

    Please help me determine who is to blame or what is at fault.
  • mike159mike159 Posts: 4
    Any ideas on why the trunk light wont go off, the horn won't beep either with this happens.
  • Are you referring to the cargo courtesy lamp in the trunk area or the dash light that tells you that the trunk lid is ajar?
  • kathyc1kathyc1 Posts: 138
    I would love to have a New Beetle so I signed onto the problems section to see what was going on with them. They show up on Consumer Reports as a very bad buy, but I can't get my 1969 Bug with Auto stick shift out of my memory. I loved that car until it was stripped in 1974, but it was truly the best car I ever owned up to that point. After reading all the troubles though I'll stick with my Honda.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,941
    vegas, if you reduce your participation in drifting contests to every other weekend you may experience both less VW brake wear and a better Honda TPM rating (Transmissions per Mile).
    dude[tte], do you work as a "cooler" at the vegas tables? ok, seriously, i put 55k on each of two recent VWs and brakes were barely half worn on each - it's gotta be city driving vs highway driving. or your incessant drifting demos.

    trekkieted, great googly moogly your experience stinks like an interstellar methane cloud. indeed it appears likely that the Car X shop was staffed with Klingons who unintentionally zapped your VWs electrical system or were tricked into zapping it by the wily Romulans.
    also, those ECM modules can get zapped by static electricity - they can self-zap randomly.
    unfortunately there's no way to prove that the Klingon mechanics did it or whether the "binars" from the first ST:TNG episode did it.

    KathyC best wishes with the honda. but you know you really want to try the VW. live a little. live on the edge. be the ball. get the beetle diesel and 44 mpg and enjoy its freakishly large side windows. there are a still a few new NB diesels on dealer lots. i just bought one for my spouse but my overwhelming macho-ness prevents me from ever driving it myself.
    i learned to drive in a 65 bug back when it was cool for males to drive beetles. it was super but not a 'super beetle' or as super as that old beetle you had, girl!
  • Where do I pour in the transmission fluid on a 2001 TDI Beetle w/auto trans. I have broken it down and replaced the filter but now can't figure out where to fill it back up.
  • does anybody know where to locate the transmission control modual in an 2002 2.0l L4 bug. we took the car in 5 times to be serviced every time I complained it was the tranny they kept telling me it was the battery. now they want 850 to replace it.I just need to know where its located .Someone said under the back seat . please help me
  • Thinking of buying a 1999 vw with 48,000 miles on it for $6200. It has a new clutch and tires, seems to run tight but now after reading everyone's probs with their vw, I feel it may be a terrible choice for my teenage daughter. Please inform me if I'm heading for disaster.
  • Quick question, in process of buying a 1999 vw gl and the engine light was on when we were test driving it. The seller said because it needs to be serviced (it had 48k); but according to your comments it must be something else besides a tuneup. Please help to guide me to purchase or not. Thank you.
  • Thinking of a 99 vw gl for $6200, has a new clutch and tires but the engine light went on. The seller says he will get it checked and turned off and tuned up. It does seem to run good, but should I be leary in general. What can help me ensure that I'm geeting a good car at a good price or should I just look for something else. Thank you.
  • Hey there Lizjohn1987!

    On the face of it, the '99 seems to be a good price for that car (because you are buying low miles as well). It is the base model Beetle. The CEL means that one of the many sensors located throughout the car has detected a reading that falls outside the normal tolerance that is deemed acceptable for normal operation. I would assume that the owner/car lot has already had this checked but is not disclosing the reading (and what it means) to you (after all, would you try to sell a car with the CEL on? Do you think that the CEL coincidently came on for the first time when you started it?). You can take this car to one of several auto parts chains that will read the code through a OBD II scanner for free to obtain the four-digit fault code. The better device for reading these fault codes is a VAG-COM which can be purchased online (about$250). The VAG-COM is what the dealers use to scan the on-board computer for codes, but typically will charge up to one hour's labor to perform that service ($$$). With some code scanners, one can "turn off" the CEL without resolving the cause of the code. The CEL may return immediately or at some later inconvenient time if the cause wasn't corrected. Tracking the cause for the fault code could be an involved process.

    A new clutch at 48K miles seems quite early but I suppose that's just a reflection of the previous owner's driving style. I imagine that most of the maintenance history for this car is "missing" so I would pay a couple of hundred dollars to a VOLKSWAGEN dealer for the peace-of-mind that all the components are there, check the cause for the CEL code, and is in typical condition for this year of car. Also, go online to CARFAX (with VIN in hand) and pay the fee to learn if this car has any issues. Many flooded-out cars from New Orleans have been "cleaned-up" and appeared for resale nationwide. This car may have a salvage title (not yet disclosed to you), been involved in a fire, or could have been involved in a reported collision.

    The Bentley manual (fat shop manual available for public purchase for about $80 +/-) states that the timing belt should be replaced at 60K miles or five-years. A failure of this belt will result in a catastrophic engine failure. This can be replaced at the dealer for about $650 along with the tensioner, serpentine belt(operates alternator, A/C compressor, P/S pump etc.) and water pump (plastic impeller blades deteriorate with age and will shatter). Other than those caveats, all should be well. I'm 53, have owned my '99 w/ 54K miles since new and have enjoyed many fun and trouble-free miles. These cars are a blast to drive, the styling is timeless and has many amenities that are simply missing for cars of this size class (also is the safest car for this size-class).

    With the help of a Bentley manual (indispensable) and online forums, you can perform a variety of duties yourself (yes, it is possible to do the timing belt yourself) and learn how to gain access behind cosmetic panels without enduring frustration and remorse.
    Be sure to do what any potential buyer of ANY used car should do. Get this checked-out by a dealer(they know what to look for)!

    Good Luck...Alan
  • I purchased a new car last saturday with 30 miles and the first day blinkers stopped working I call the dealer and they promisse to fix it and give a loan car,but I went there the next business day and they did not have loan car, so they ask me to come back next week, because the car also had a scratch in front that thay just can fix wednesday, then, 2 day later (day 5) engine light show up in my panel...together with a rear noise everytime that we star the car.
    I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
    Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?

    So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
    I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"

    please help :cry: :sick: :lemon:
  • :lemon: I purchased a new car last saturday with 30 miles and the first day blinkers stopped working I call the dealer and they promisse to fix it and give a loan car,but I went there the next business day and they did not have loan car, so they ask me to come back next week, because the car also had a scratch in front that thay just can fix wednesday, then, 2 day later (day 5) engine light show up in my panel...together with a rear noise everytime that we star the car.
    I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
    Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?

    So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
    I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"

    please help
  • :lemon: I purchased a new car last saturday with 30 miles and the first day blinkers stopped working I call the dealer and they promisse to fix it and give a loan car,but I went there the next business day and they did not have loan car, so they ask me to come back next week, because the car also had a scratch in front that thay just can fix wednesday, then, 2 day later (day 5) engine light show up in my panel...together with a rear noise everytime that we star the car.
    I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
    Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?

    So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
    I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"

    please help
  • I purchased this 2000 Beetle with the representation that it needed some engine work, from a local dealer. I got a hold of the original owner and he told me that the block was cracked.
    Anyway, I am thinking to buy a brand new engine, and am wondering if anyone here can tell me the best source for a factory new engine. I don't plan on buying form this dealer.
    I would consider used if anyone has a low mileage good runner.
  • I purchased a new car last saturday with 30 miles and the first day blinkers stopped working I call the dealer and they promisse to fix it and give a loan car,but I went there the next business day and they did not have loan car, so they ask me to come back next week, because the car also had a scratch in front that thay just can fix wednesday, then, 2 day later (day 5) engine light show up in my panel...together with a rear noise everytime that we star the car.
    I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
    Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?

    So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
    I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"

    please help
  • slosslos Posts: 19
    The knob broke off the outside mirror switch and I need to replace it. I have ordered a new knob. Is there any trick I need to know or any special instructions I will need to remove the old switch from the drivers side door?

    This is a 2001 beetle 2.0L.

    Thanks!
  • The Bentley manual does not state how to remove the knob. I would imagine that it unscrews or just pulls straight off. Perhaps you will be fortunate and the part will have instructions with it...
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,941
    samascl it does sound like you have some "leverage" possible if they screwed up the financing and need you to re-sign financing paperwork. that is playing hardball but it sounds like they maybe are not being a good dealership, so hardball may well be appropriate. it may be a good strategy to tell them you won't sign anything until AFTER you see that the car's problems are fixed. please let us know how this turns out for you. best wishes...
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