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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair



  • mschelmmschelm Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 NB GLX with the 1.8t, I have replaced to many parts to even list here, or at least it seems that way to me. It has 89K miles, anyway does anyone know why the engine just makes a clicking noise? It only does it when its idling and not all the time, I can't figure it out. I can sit their and let it idle and it will just click as loud as can be, but when I give a little gas it gets faster and then goes away. Does anyone know how this can be fixed? Also, my car came with the Monsoon system, yeah I hate it. The amp died maybe 6 months after I got the car and fried the front speakers. So I replaced them with an aftermarket component system and 2 years later now my right front speakers worked the day before then I turn on the car and they don't, then today I turn on the car and the left front speakers dont work. Does this sound familiar to anyone, because I really don't want to have to rip out the entire audio cables and speakers and have to redo them all. Thats just a waste of my time and effort I do believe even though I do want my speakers back.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    You need to know the code which caused the CEL (Check Engine Light) Each code represents a specific failure-mode. As long as the CEL is not blinking, it is OK to drive.

    Many auto-parts stores (Autozone...etc) will "pull the codes" out of the computer for free for you.
  • gezlouisegezlouise Posts: 1
    2003 beetle convertible--i have replaced all four windows so far---latest is the glue around the window---dealer quoted 5000 to 1000 dollars- thats nuts. any ideas --- can a trip shop reglue? my plan is to unload as soon as fixed---never to return to vw
  • car776car776 Posts: 1
    I am in the middle of replacing the starter/solenoid. I have been able to remove the lower starter mounting bolt. The bolts are double with a nut and then a bolt. If you have ever removed a starter please respond and give me some ideas. The upper bolt has a piece of plastic which is holding a wiring harness. How do I get this piece of plastic out so I can get to the bolt under it.

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Posts: 38
    We have had the car less than a month, love it, but the ac takes 8 to 10 minutes to come on. it is the S model with manual trans. we took it to the dealer who couldn't find the problem. the dealer said they conferred with VW engineers who said it was the ambient air sensor. not in stock so it was shipped, installed and the same problems exists. now they say its the compressor, which is on back order and they say it will take 10 to 14 days to get from germany. the car has under 400 miles on it. we filed a complaint and got a case number from VW america and told them we wanted a new car. we've decided that rather than take a loaner we want to have use of our convert so we're taking it back unti,the compressor arrived and is installed and then we'll see what happens. dealer says this is a rare problem. also, we noticed that the driver window went all the way into the door well, but the passenger window stayed up about a quarter to a half inch when in the down position. dealer says they should stay up a bit and fixed the driver side to match the passenger side -- is that correct? any help much appreciated. do i have a lemon?
  • I have had the absolute WORST gas milage in my New Beetle

    2008 Automatic 2.5

    I check the milage and gas usage every time I fill up my tank.

    I've owned my New Beetle since April 16, 2008

    Yesterday I discovered with my around town driving this past 10 days I only got 17 miles per gallon. I am not that heavy on the gas peddle.

    That's as bad as an SUV.

    How disturbing and what a major disappointment.

    The best so far has only been approx. 24 to 25 MPG on the Hwy and that would be driving like a little old lady. Not breaking 55 to 60 on the FREEWAY.... who drives like that????????

    I am completely disappointed VW could not do any better with Gas Milage Efficiency.

    What a total let down. Should have bought a SMART CAR!!!!
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Posts: 38
    what does the dealer say about the gas mileage? also take a look at my posting above yours. what do you think?
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Posts: 107
    Media Guy 2 - I have a new 2008 SE Convertible with automatic. I have not encountered a problem with the windows. All windows retract completely into the doors or rear panels (for the back seat). I do know the windows will lower about 1/2 inch when you open the door or press the remote unlocking fey fob. This is designed so the window glass can seal correctly into the convertible top when the door is closed. I would have the dealer check again about the windows lowering, or ask to look at some other 2008 convertibles on their lot and see how those operate.

    As for the air conditoner, I do know that in my part of the country we have to operate the car air conditioners (not just the VW) in the recirculation mode all summer. This will make the air colder and will tend to speed the cool down of the car. Push the recirculate button along with the A/C button and try operating in that mode. It should help.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,836
    mediaguy i don't see evidence you have a lemon and instead see evidence that dealer is fixing what is broken. it shouldn't take so long to get a compressor but that and a misaligned window sure do not make the car a lemon.
    keeki, your reported mpg is just a couple mpg below the EPA estimate that was on the window when you bought the car. That sounds reasonable, given that gas engines are not broken in until about 10k miles - 10% mpg improvement is possible due to break-in.
    your idea that gas car mpg is not that much better than SUV mpg matches my opinion. btw, TDI version of beetle gets 44 highway, never below 40 mpg. Smarter than a smart car, with twice as many seats.
    imho, smart cars get poor mpg for such a tiny/toy car. except for the diesel smart, unavailable in USA.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Posts: 38
    thanks for your response. what struck me odd about all this was that the service people said they had to consult with vw engineers to try to diagnose the problem. after a couple of days they decided it was the ambient temperature sensor, which involved taking off the bumper to install. when they put it all back together the ac was still doing the same thing, taking 10 minutes to kick in. then the dealer said they consulted with the engineers again and then it was decided it was the compressor. seems to me they dont know whats going on and are going from one part to another in hopes of finding a solution.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Posts: 38
    i agree in my mind that windows should retract into the door and not sit up a quarter or a half inch. the window on the passenger side was the one that was up just a bit, front and rear. the drivers window went all the way down as one would expect. the dealer said all windows were engineered to stay up a little above the sill. i called another dealer's service department and they said that the windows SHOULD stay up a little above the sill. we're picking up the car today because it'll be a week or two before they have the replacement ac compressor so i'll check the windows and ask to see how they operate in another new convertible.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Posts: 38
    btw, regarding the ac, i always had the ac button AND the recirculate button on at the same time with the dial all the way to the blue for the coldest air and it still took 8 to 10 minutes for the ac to kick in. so yes i was aware of the recirculate.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,836
    Media G2, yeah, that's why all the manufacturers have 'technical assistance center', to help the dealer mechanics diagnose rare/unusual issues. My sympathies lie with the mechanics since my job for about 30 years has involved diagnosing difficult technical issues. Failure of ambient temperature sensor sure does sound obscure/rare and tough to diagnose for the non-software-inclined. Many mechanics have many certifications in the software/ECM stuff, at least one per dealership, as far as I know. Maybe that dude was out sick. :|
    As for the window - One of the 4 TDI VWs I've bought had a misaligned drivers window, noticed via extra wind-noise from that window. Dealer did not need technical-assistance to fix that one. They maybe did need it to find a water-leak in the 06 NB DSG TDI ($20k new), as well as 3 visits. They finally got it done by removing every rug in the car and driving through carwash, to find the leak.
    Comparing with other Beetles on VW lots, the window operation, maybe that will show you what's normal for the windows. On my only remaining VW, 06 jetta TDI, the front windows do roll down almost exactly flush with top of door/molding. I'll let you know if I notice anything interesting re that.
  • vitahawkvitahawk Posts: 14
    Hi. My daughter has a 2002 beetle with gas engine. Last week she took the beetle in for oil change at a quick lube place. They insisted that she must only use synthetic oil in her car and sold her the oil change with the more costly oil. They charged her an additional $50 on top of the regular oil change for this. Her owners manual lists synthetic as well as standard petro based oils as acceptable. I think she got ripped off and would like to see them eat the extra $50 cost. Comments please?
  • When I have taken my cars to my trusted mechanic and asked about regular oil vs synthetic, his opinion is if you have a new car and start off on regular oil changes with synthetic you should get longer engine life and reduced wear. If you have a car that has years and miles and have always used just regular oil, then the benefits of using synthetic in that car is probably does not justify the extra cost.

    I have two new vehicles (2008 Beetle Convertible and 2008 Mazda) which I have begun to use synthetic. While I always change the oil at 3000 miles, my mechanic suggested I could go longer with the synthetic oil. I will change every 5000 miles. One my one older vehicle (1996 Izuzu Trooper) I will continue to use regular oil, as it has 85,000 miles - and change this every 3000 miles.

    I doubt the oil change place will refund your daughter, but in the future she probably just needs to say "regular oil only - Thanks".
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Depends on WHICH gasoline engine she has. The 1.8 turbocharged engine MUST have synthetic oil. This may not be in the "owners manual" of the 2002 models because this announcement was made (retroactively) by VW many years later after numerous oil-related engine-failures.The turbocharger can 'cook' dyno-oil due to the extremely high tempartures it runs at.

    BTW: The 1.8t engine also requires hi-test gasoline because it is turbocharged.

    Which engine does your daughter have in her NB (New Beetle)?
  • Vitahawk - I have a 2002 bettle that I purchased new and have only taken it to the dealer for oil changes (every wonderful 5K miles faithfully) and from the get go they have only used synthetic. I guess because of the 5K miles recommended oil change - that could be why the synthetic is used.
  • hopefully you have fixed this problem, but just in case, my 2003 did the same thing for about 2 weeks, I took to the dealership, they said the trunk latch was causing the alarm to go off and that I needed to have something replaced there, only happened when I locked the car of course. Then it just stopped going off. That was 18 months ago, and have had numerous other problems since, but not that one. Good luck!
  • Me again, now my bug doesn't want to start - about 1 month ago, had headlights on for about 5 mins, went to start car, didn't turn over, then started, 2 weeks later, daughter had radio on, car off, didn't want to turn over, waited for tow truck, then it started. in the last 2 weeks, this problem has occurred more often, all the panel lights turn on, but nothing happens, then if I do it again it will start, until today. when this happens, it resets the clock, and radio. Have asked my mechanics for input, nobody knows, until they get it in the shop and try to figure it out. Today, when trying to start, lights go on, but nothing happens except for clicking noise like starter? Is this typical behavior when the starter is going out? I had the mass airflow sensor replaced right before this started as the car didn't want to stay running and the code showed mass afs., right after that, rt headlight, bumper light and left brake light went out at the same time. Have also replaced the plugs and wires 2 months ago, oil changes monthly due to miles driven. Every time something gets fixed electrical, within 2 months, something else goes out. I am ready to drive it into the river. I have never in all my years had problems like this with any car I have ever owned - My best car was a 1989 Cougar -all electric windows, etc - drove that car for 10 years and only problem was blew a head gasket (I didn't know about changing oil then) and blew the trans in its 9th year (didn't know about that stuff either). Always had fords - I guarantee I will NEVER, EVER :mad: :mad: :cry: :cry: :lemon: , buy a volkswagen again unless it is an old beetle for fun.
  • I have a 2002 VW Beetle 1.8 Turbo. I just bought the car and it has run perfectly the last 3 weeks. It recently sat for a week without being driven and now it is having problems starting. Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong?
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