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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair



  • keygokeygo Posts: 38
    It only ended up costing $35 plus the bulb. Is this a doable job? The owners manual says to take it to the dealership because it requires special tools. In the realm of things, I guess $35 to get a headlight bulb changed is not the end of the world but it sure was a surprise to me.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    You paid a mechanic to replace your headlight bulb and complain that $35 for a 1/2hour of their time is a surprise to you? In the real world - It is not uncommon for a dealerships labor-rate to be $70/hour.... that is EXACTLY what you paid.

    By the time the dealership takes their cut from that... the guy that worked on your car takes home somewaht less than the $35 you paid. He has a family to feed and bills to pay just like the rest of us.

    Personally - I purchase a replacement bulb at wallymart and replace it myself in the wallymart parking-lot. I also replace my own oil, brakes and do most other repairs. I cannot afford the $70/hour for those tasks.
  • I am in a big dispute with our after market oil quick change store. I developed an oil leak and took it to our Car shop in Brighton Mi. Perfect Tune, (good place). They told me the leak was coming from the filter. I told them to replace as it was getting close to an oil change any way. When they removed the oil pan drain plug it was way over torque and difficult to remove. It bvacked out and pulled oil pan threads with it. They tried to over size it and use a bigger plug but the boss on the pan is almost flush with the inside of the pan structure. They had to replace the pan (435.00). I called the VW dealer and they said their standard repair process was to replace the pan. Does anyone have any expirence with oversized the drain plug hole???? Thanks......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    It seems to me you learned some lessons

    1) never EVER use one of those quikie-change places.
    2) The aluminum oil-pan is very expensive to replace.

    Most of the people that do the work in those quikie-change places were not able to get a job as a real mechanic. Any money you think you are saving is a net long-term loss. They often use the wrong oil, and can really mess-up your car.

    Most cars use a steel oil-pan. Steel is much tougher than aluminium and can stand to be over-torqued. It also accepts oversized threads better. The aluminium oil-pan is more expensive to manufacture than steel. It is lighter and helps cool the oil. However, it is very thin and easilly damaged. (either by over-torqing or getting busted from road-debris)
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,810
    never EVER use one of those quikie-change places.

    Not unless you like the increased chance of things being done wrong and want to try and be sold a bunch of stuff that you don't really need. ;)


    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • :sick: Thanks for the answer. I am retired and do not do any of my own work due to health reasons. This is my wifes car. What I was looking for was a repair standard for this issue. I talked to VW dealer and they said it was to replace the pan. I also checked with Some Ford engineers I know and they said the same thing. I am looking for documentation so I can prove my case to the place.
  • vw0683vw0683 Posts: 1

    I have a 2006 VW beetle. When I go over bumps (train tracks, sewer grates etc) there is the normal jostling and banning sound. But then about 10-20 seconds after the bumps there is another banging sound. I took the car to the dealer and they tightened my license plate holder, didn't help. Took the car back, had them drive around with me and they heard the sound, so they replaced the driver's seat frame, even though the sound is coming from the rear end.

    Does anybody know what this sound may be or have any suggestions as to how to fix it?
  • :confuse: We have a 1999 beetle 2.0 automatic. We have had the transmission replaced at about 56k due to the internal cooler failed and put water in the transmission. The car now has 70k and the check engine light had been on for a couple of months but the car ran fine. last week we took it in for some other work and they checked the codes and replaced the ignition wires and the light went out for about 20 miles and then came back on. This mornig I started it , did not let it warm up, and after 1/2 mile the check engine light was flashing and it went into limp home mode. After I drove it another mile the light stopped flashing, still on, and it drove fine... This is the second time it has done this. My mechanic said he only gets around 4 to 5 lines of data when he plugs in his device. Please advise.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    First and foremost.... you need to understand FLASHING CEL means DO NOT DRIVE... IMMENENT DAMAGE WILL HAPPEN.

    The offhand note that it "drives fine" means nothing... lets hope you have not fried the catalytic converter or something else expensive.

    Use a Vag-Com to troublesohoot.
  • :confuse: I did not drive the car but a few feet when it went into the limp home mode. After it warmed up it drove with no notable degridation or performance issues. I have read all the horror stories linked to the check enfine light on. I was thinking that the map window with colder air runs the car too lean and as it warms up it gets back into a workable tabel to run. Does that make sense?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    I assume you know P0171 means that the foreward O2 sensor has detected a lean condition.

    Most commont reason for P0171 is a cracked/broken or otherwise defective hose allowing air to 'leak' into the intake manifold AFTER the MAF sesor. (Between MAF and engine)

    Another possibility is the MAF itself not measuring the airflow accurately. If you have every one of those "oiled guaze" air-filters... (like K&N) then your MAF is likely destroyed.

    3rd possibility is the foreward O2 sensor measurng the lean condition improperly.

    I would approach this problem in the order I have suggesed above.
    1)Look for air-leak (replace all questionable rubber hoses
    2) Pull electrical connector off MAF and drive like that (forces "limp" mode safely)
    3)If that helps, consider replacing MAF
    4)Consider replacing foreward O2 sensor
  • :) Thank you so much for the information. I forgot to tell you I put some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank when it was at 1/4 tank and have not added any fuel since then. Would that make any difference? I let the car sit for two days and started it this morning with no issues after I let the blue cooling light go off. I did not wait for the cooling light to go off the other day when I had the limp home mode issue. I know it says to let the engine warm up until the blue coolant light goes off, how important is that???? Thanks again for your help....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    You said ==> " it says to let the engine warm up until the blue coolant light goes off"

    VW says to DRIVE GENTLY (accellerate slowly) until the blue coolant light turns off... this is the same as all other vehicles ever made. One should always take it easy on a cold engine. Driving gently is the very quickest way to warm up engine without excessive wear-n-tear.

    You do understand that the only reason that the NB (New Beetle) has the blue light is because it does not have a formal temparature-guage on the dash to tell you when engine is cold. (VW tried to keep true to the Original Beetle which did not even have antifreeze!!)

    On the other hand.... letting a cold engine IDLE until it is warmed up is not good for it. An engine takes much longer to warm up when idling. This allows condensation and other nasties to form in the crankcase.
  • jrolfjrolf Posts: 24
    My dad just bought a 2001 2.0 liter vw bug and he wanted to put a new timing belt on it. Well we put the timing belt on had everything back on and started it up, it ran for about 20 seconds then it kind of clunked and died. we took the belt back off and put the timing all back to top dead center, put it all back together again now it tries to turn over but it is like it is hitting on something. Could timing be 360 out?? Can anyone help me please. :sick: :confuse: :(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    I dont see how it could be out 360 degrees.... you are not supposed to allow any of the pullies move while the old belt is off.

    You may need "professional help" on this one. A timing belt that is installed wrong will allow pistons to hit the valves. This usually results in physical damage, bent valves and perhaps holed pistons.

    I guess you *could* remove the valve-cover to visually see the position of the cams.... but it is very likely that the damage is done and the head will need to be pulled.
  • If you look at the Haynes manual, it will say that there will be ECU problems when the battery is changed. Hesitation sputtering etc. They say the parameters needs to be reset. I am looking for the same solution as you were. I know this is really old, but nobody ever puts the solution down. Only the problems. What was your solution? I am eager to solve my beetles problem. Thank you for your time.
  • krojaskrojas Posts: 11
    edited March 2010
    Flodded bug, everything works fine, however there is a slight hesitation on the eng. while iddling in park. 2.0 eng. auto. Could it be an injector, ignition, computer any sugestion. Also can the trans. have water in it ? it drives and shift smooth. How can I check the fluid. And can someone tell me how can I turn on the fog lights on this beetle. Any sugestion will be appreciated thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    Hanes manual is just plain wrong reguarding VW. Some other cars may do this (Dodge... etc)

    Replacing battery may lose RADIO coding because radio thinks is has been stolen.... I have never heard of any other issue in VW caused by changing battery.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    By "flodded".... do you mean the vehicle was underwater? If so.... you should have ALL the fluids changed. (Xmission, steering, brake, clutch... etc.)

    To turn on foglights, did you try to PULL out on the headlight switch when lights are on?
    (I assume you know that law only allows foglights to work on low-beam)
  • thebug87thebug87 Posts: 1
    Three days ago my car started having some problems. I would be able to drive my car for about 15 minutes before it would shut off. I tried to restart the car and the engine turned over but wouldn't catch. After about 10 minutes the car started and I drove it home. I checked the oil level, air filter, fuses, and coolant. The following day I drove the car to my dad's and the same stalling issue occurred and it restarted after 10 minutes and I continued driving to my destination. At this point my car had about a little under half a tank of gas. We checked the vacuum in the gas tank, which seemed all right. I then drove the car for a while to make it stall, once stalled we turned the key and it would turn over, but, not catch. We then immediately opened the gas cap and the car turned over leading us to believe there is an issue with the vacuum in the fuel tank. We have since driven the car for over an hour and it has not stalled, however, the gas level is now lower than a quarter of a tank. So I am back to square one. The check engine light is always on in the car so I cannot tell if a sensor is bad.
    The car had similar stalling issues two years ago and the crank sensor was replaced. Four years ago the oxygen sensor was replaced.
    We are going to check the mass air flow sensor and lights. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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