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Mercury Mountaineer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Any advice appreciated! thanks!
  • Hi jacksocd....

    The filter is deep up under the front passenger's side, right inside of the running board and straight across from the transfer case. It's protected and hid by a small shield with a larger, silver heat shield (that runs diagonally) in front of that.

    You first need to relieve the fuel line pressure by depressing the bike tire valve located on the fuel rail on top of the engine under the big black cover that covers the whole engine. There are only 4 nuts that hold the big cover on, and once you remove those, remove the hose @ the back of the cover from it's hose guide and the cover will be free to be removed. Then you'll see the tire valve in front of you on the right side sticking up from a metal tubing line. There should be a black valve cover on top of the valve. You'll need to have a rag ready when depressing the valve since a good amount of gas will be relieved and it's under considerable pressure. Be sure the engine's not real hot when you do this just in case gas spills on the engine.

    Once the pressure is relieved and you've jacked up the passenger's front side of the car, crawl under and try to locate the two fuel lines coming from the tank at the rear of the vehicle. The filter is located just past where they make a 90 degree turn.

    You'll need to remove the diagonal, silver heat shield first. There should be 2 bolts on one end, and I think 1 on the other. Once it's removed, you should see a small cover that has two hex nuts with the filter being on the back side of this cover.

    Once it's removed, you'll notice there is only one line going to the engine and two coming from the gas tank. The fitting for the engine side requires a special tool that's readily available at any checker auto, advanced auto, type of store. When you get the fuel filter from the store, get the tool too so you can be sure you get the right size of tool. There's a latch that first has to be popped up that is hooked on the end of the fitting facing the filter. It just pops up then the special tool clasps around the nipple of the filter and pushes into the fitting.....towards the line going to the engine. As you squeeze the tool together around the nipple of the filter, push the fuel line away from the filter and it should just push right off.

    The tank side lines are a different fitting and don't require any special tool, but they're a bit of a pain to figure out since the way to release them is not readily visible. Use a very small screwdriver and put it in the trough of the maroon tab that should be facing you and pry the tab out. That will release a tab that should then be free to hang down. This has to be first released so you can then push it back up through the fitting where it has been clamped in place around the nipple of the fuel filter. It should pop through the top side of the fitting, and you can reach up and feel when it is protruding up. Once it is, the fitting should be free from the filter and the line can be pulled off of the filter.

    Be aware that gas WILL run out of the hoses, so you don't want your face or anything electrical right under the lines. It only takes a couple minutes for them to completely quit dripping after the short section of gas line has emptied.

    The new filter goes on in reverse order, and the fittings push right back onto the nipples of the filter. You should definitely feel a 'click' on the engine side of the filter when you push the line back on, and the gas side lines need to be pushed well onto the filter nipples before pushing the clasps back down and latching back the maroon tab.

    Write back if this doesn't make sense or if you have any more ?'s.........
  • Usually when you see oil in that region it is a leak in the rear differental. I would try to see if it is the access bolt seal (inexpensive). If not it is a leake in the diff housing (more expensive)
  • common, slide the gas pump a few times in and out. This happens because the air pressure in the tank triggers the shut off switch in the pump. Sliding the pump in and out some will release the pressure so the shut-off system won't falsly activate.
  • how do i change transmision oil? There is no dipstick. what is the proceedure on oil and filter change
  • Our '99 Mercury Mountaineer starts fine, idles fine, the engine revs okay when in park BUT when you put it in drive or reverse and push on the gas it stalls. We just got a full tank of gas yesterday and I'm wondering if there may be water in the fuel. I was going to buy Dry Gas and/or Gumout to see if those would help but wanted to see if anyone had a different idea. Thanks for your help! (By the way, it's been about 20 degrees here lately and my daughter's been driving the vehicle pretty close to empty!!)
  • mnpaulmnpaul Posts: 11
    Hi Jennap,

    Minnesota here---so very cold and very similar issues with stalling as you probably saw in my discussion threads. The Gummout worked well initially, but after 4-5 tanks of gas, the stalling started again.. I added a bottle of HEET and once it worked through the stalling ended. Now I am adding a bottle every other FULL tank of gas, and so far, its curing the stalling blues. We are thinking that there is a condensation build up in the fuel line or tank (no auto expert here) but the simple solutions seem to be working the best :-)

    Good luck!
    Paul
  • Thanks Paul! I bought a bottle of K100 fuel treatment today and put it in. While the vehicle now goes it still wants to stall when intially starting off. It seems that as long as you don't press the gas too hard it works okay. Does yours do the same thing? Any info you can give is much appreciated. Thanks so much and good luck with yours, also!!
  • sstampe! I was wondering did u get that problem fixed with u're locks, because i'm having similar problems out of my locks. I use the master button on the driver door to lock my doors and they all don't lock. The driver side is the only one that want lock. And when I try to unlock my doors they all will unlock except for the passenger side. I have a 99 Mountaineer.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I have a 2002 V8 Premier. I have been dreading messing with the tranny fluid, now that I have 31K miles on the rig. For the last 5.5 years, I have considered what to do when the 30K point would arrive, knowing that the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual calls for replacing the tranny fluid. I decided to talk to a local trans shop that has a great reputation and has done some (Chrysler Turbo LeBaron) tranny work for me in the past. I also talked to the local Merc dealer. I decided to go with the dealer, feeling that If problems arose after the work, they would be hard pressed to get out of it! They told me that all I really needed was a flush and cleaning, with replacement of the fluid. When I inquired about possibly changing the filter(s) they said not to do it. They said the filters are expected to go 100K miles before a change would be advisable. They used a BG product during the "cleaning" phase of the flush, and then used 16 quarts of synthetic fluid. I have only put some 500 miles on it at this post-service point, and everything seems perfect. I hope it stays that way. It is my opinion that the auto tranny used in this series of vehicles should not be neglected! Git'er done! :)
  • phxmercphxmerc Posts: 2
    I have a Check Engine Light illuminated and an intermittent misfire. My OBD II tester flagged a misfire on #3 cylinder. Mileage is 70K. I have replaced Plugs - Wires - Coils - Injectors and have checked for and found no vacumn leaks. After all of this, my problem still exists. Any and all input would be helpful and appreciated.
  • dmearsdmears Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Mountineer with 42000 miles on it and the Instrument Cluster went on it and my child was stranded in MA. I had to spend $500 for parts and labor because my bumper to bumper warranty was up at 36,000. The service at the Ford dealership in Great Berrington MA was horrible. Has anyone else seen this electrical problem in any of their vehicles before?
  • swo_dogswo_dog Posts: 1
    My door ajar light started coming on intermittenly at first and now constant. Now the interior lights as well as lights under the side mirrors will not turn off even when the engine is turned off. Any ideas what might cause this problem?
  • najswifenajswife Posts: 1
    We have a 2004 Mountaineer and have the same issue...our interior lights now go off after 4 mins...however, now in addition to this issue - the seat memory controls on the driver side door are inoperable....this past weekend...the door ajar light came on...then extinguished...and 24 hours without using the car the battery is dead? When you jump the battery the car runs well...

    Did you have service for the door ajar issue...

    My concern is that our warranty is up....and I would like to know the cause rather than the dealership tell me what is wrong with the truck
  • mike420mike420 Posts: 2
    I had the same problem... It has to do with the door latchs.. spray some wd40 or brake cleaner into the door latch and take a screwdriver.while holding the door handle open jiggle the screwdriver in the door latch for a while. this should cure the problem..
  • meemeemeemee Posts: 8
    2004 mountaineer/36,000 miles
    extreme noise when shifting-discovered the entire pumpkin housing twists when shifting from drive to reverse. Any info or help?
    denise
  • arod5arod5 Posts: 1
    Hi, has anyone ever change a fuel injector. it seems I have a bad fuel injector. I feel a slight tug when I push on the gas pedal. It seem the fuel is not flowing through. I was thinking of changing out the fuel filter, but a friend of mine was in my car and said he had the same problem. And it was his fuel injectors not flowing correctly. I tried injector cleaners and nothing improved. Let me know if anyone had a similar problem. I have a 2002 AWD Mountaineer.
  • Did you ever recieve an answer concerning the location of the o2 sensor?
  • I bought this car in 2004. Replaced the transmission under warranty in 2006, this weekend the car is stalling at 20-30 miles. Has anyone had this problem? I called around some shops and they quoted 1600-3K to getting it fixed?? Are they recalls for this kind of stuff. Please let me know because how can a car go thru a transmission every 2 years. I have accrued a lot of miles on the car but it's not like I am an aggressive driver.
    Can everyone complain so we can all get justice once and for all....
  • NKS969NKS969 Posts: 10
    Here's a good one. Fords' TSB 08-21-11 addresses the need to match tire circumferences so as to not destroy the transfer cases. However, while it addresses the '97 through '08 Explorer it bypasses the Mountaineers in the '01 year particularly. The problem has been found to be a problem w/the 5.0 AWD '01 Mercury Mountaineer (that have only two tires replaced after normal wear, forward or rear) by causing a wheel speed transducer to 'tell' the transmission that it needs to be in AWD when it doesn't and therefore violently vibrating loose a flange case pinch nut and allow the aft drive shaft into the drive case to 'float' and then the interior of the transfer case self destructs. Mis-matched tires of different manufacturers could be of different 'circumference' yet retain the same tire 'size'. This difference can cause the internal destruction of the transfer case gearing. The costs can average in the $1900.00 to $2,300.00 range. Ford has not updated its' TSB as of yet. Anyone have this unpleasent experience yet?
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