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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Engine and Performance Problems

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  • jeff12851jeff12851 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Jeep Cherokee with 275K miles that I have owned since it was new. It runs great, but recently it has totally cut off 2 times while driving, the 1st time I was able to restart in neutrall in traffic, the 2nd it would not restart and had to be towed. The dealer had it for a week and got no spark the first day. Day two of tests, it started imediately as if nothing were wrong and they could not get it to stall again. I got it back, drove out to eat, as I was attempting to shift into reverse to leave the parking lot, it stalled dead again. It would not restart in park; I shifted into neutrall after a few minites and it started imediately and drove fine home. Could this be the neutrall safety switch going bad on the transmission?
  • I have an ’89 Cherokee and I’m experiencing a similar problem. It starts fine and runs fine for about 15-30 minutes then starts “cutting out,” similar to the engine being turn off and then immediately back on. As long as I keep the RPMs up (1 foot on the brake and 1 on the gas), it doesn’t die (but still cuts out). But, if I let the RPMs dip below 1K (stopping at a light), it will die and not restart. I usually have to let it set for about 1 to 2 hours before it will start again. I’ve replaced the rotor, distributor cap, and spark plug wires, then the ignition coil, and finally the fuel pump and still have the same problem. Have you had any luck fixing your Cherokee? If so, how did you fix your problem?
  • OK
    I have started having this same problem . I re-did my entire cooling system and my Jeep still gets hot 210 so far. I am going to run without a thermostat , flush the system again , and try some " Royal Purple " and wait and see what happens .
    I had this problem once before with a Thunderbird in the early 80's . This problem seems to occur after 100k .
    I never could solve the problem on the Tbird , it just kept getting worse . PS both vehicles were purchased new and were well maintained .
    If any body has a solution P L E A S E let me know .
  • crankshaft position sensor, see post 2103.Mine never threw a code.(check engine light)
  • I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo which I inherited from my son. My son replaced the water pump once before giving it to me. I have had to replacae the water pump twice. Both times I was told the water pump needed to be replaced when the "low coolant" light came on. Now the low coolant light is coming on again. It seems like every two years we have been replacing the water pump. Could there be something else causing the low coolant light to come on. Even when we refilled the coolant it still comes on. Any suggestions.
  • "Both times I was told the water pump needed to be replaced when the "low coolant" light came on."

    I've never heard this. However, when a water pump goes out, many times it will start leaking coolant and will cause the light to come on. Just because the light comes on, doesn't mean the pump is bad. You could have a leak elsewhere. Have your mechanic pressure test the cooling system. If the leak isn't obvious and the pressure gauge is going down, then check the heater core and engine oil. If it's the heater core, you'll smell the anti-freeze inside the Jeep. If it's the head gasket, then coolant will leak into the engine oil and will turn it into a sludge resembling chocolate milk.

    How many miles are on this Jeep? Three water pumps sounds like too many.
  • biz87biz87 Posts: 1
    My 1993 jeep grand cherokee has been having problems with the oil pressure gage for about 6months it doesnt seem to be causing any problems with my jeep. But latly since its gotton below 70 most days its gone from just having high oil pressure to randomly up and down. It doesnt seem to matter if im on the gas or off it. any ideas.
  • I had a similar problem on my 2002 GC Limited. A slow but continual loss of coolant. It wasn't a water pump problem. I have the split system for heating and cooling. Drivers side would warm up okay but the passenger stayed cold. A test revealed that the passenger heater core had a slow leak. I never smelled fluid nor did the carpet get wet. Core replacement fixed the problem. Just glad I bought the extended warranty. Have the dealer pressure test the system.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    I'm back, Need some help from the experts on here. Trickster, you still around? Yesterday leaving work, stopped at a light and my check gage alarm went off. Noticed the oil pressure dropped to 0psi. No tapping, just no pressure recorded. As I began to take off, the pressure went to around 40psi. Stopped again and same thing, no pressure. Thought it might be the sending unit. R/R the old switch, and now the pressure goes to between 30&40 psi under a load, and down to 20 at idle. Is this a good pressure for a 4.0 96 JGC? Thanks for any help. :)
  • Thanks for your email. I will definetly keep that in mind, because coincidently just this morning, I went to start the car and also turned on the heater (low) and it made a popping sound and then the check engine light came on and stayed on. I was able to drive it but it drove rough and jumpy. I will have to check it out later today. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate them.
  • My oil pressure dropped to zero on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, but didn't seem to cause any problems and actual oil pressure was good. The dealer said the oil pressure sending unit was leaking and causing impedence. It was replaced.
    Nine months later, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero when the engine gets hot and the RPM goes low when pulling up to a stop sign. Comes back to normal at highway speeds. Now the dealer is saying the "pig-tail" connecting the sending unit to the gauge is leaking and causing erroneous readings.
  • I seem to have the same problem with a 97 Model

    Lossing coolant, funny smell, running rough, how much is a heater core?

    Regards

    Desmond
  • The oil on the "pig-tail" to the oil pressure sending unit apparently came from the oil filter which had not been properly tightened. This can happen when the oil change technician doesn't properly snug the filter when changing.
  • Hi,

    I am experiencing the same problem on a 2000 GCL. Have you gotten any results to fixing your problem?

    Thanks,
    Doug
  • I just changed the oil on my 1993 4.0 Cherokee. Put in mobil 1 syn....now the oil pressure gauge is at zero. No problems with the engine, but I do not wish to drive it! Engine is actually much smoother since the oil change, but hte needle is on zero psi. ANy thoughts? Perhaps I busted the gauge on accident when replacing the filter? thanks

    Charley
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    I would suggest that you check your connection at the sending unit first. It is located at the bottom of the distributor. If that is plugged in, then I would replace the oil sending unit. Just unplug the unit and unscrew off. Check to see if it is a 1 or 2 connector unit. The 4.0 calls for either one in the book, so you will have to match it up. My guess is , it will be the 2 prong. Easy fix, and cost around 30-35.00 to replace. good luck
  • Last year I replaced the entire dual-range heater controls due to a fan switch being inoperable to the tune of $700.00 at the dealer. The switch is fine, now I don't have any heat. I just replaced the thermostat and topped off the coolant and still no heat. I have heard it could be a "stuck" flap or director in the heater assembly. Any help will greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hmmmmm. I was under the impression that the 00 sport had a timing chain (not belt) and didn't need replacing.
  • That is strange but that's what the dealer said, "the timing belt was set ahead."

    And it is a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4D/4WD 6cyl.

    So far it's been running ok but with winter coming I'm a little concerned. I keep up the maintenance on it but you never know.

    Jason
  • Ok here goes I have a 1987 jeep cherokoee with straight 6 Biggest problem is that it will run but has no power(wont even move) the throotle when depressed kills the motor or bogs it down even more then it already is. My attempts to fix this are new timing gear and chain cap and rotor the timing is set but yet the motor just sits there and barely runs and I want to emphasize when I move the throttle it either kills the motor or bogs it down. Where is the next place I should look for a cure? TPS? IAC?
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