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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Engine and Performance Problems

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  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,174
    Hi!

    We all feel for you here. Everyone here is very nice and helpful. We need more info!
    How many miles does it have?
    What has been done to it maintenance/repair wise?
    Which engine? 4.7 V8 or the I6?

    The WJ model Grand Cherokee has a litany of recalls, electrical problems, computer problems, transmission and transfer case problems, etc.

    So...
    1) make sure there is oil, coolant, and TRANS FLUID in it. Have your service station check them for you first thing.
    2) See if a local shop has a special where they will diagnose your check engine light for free (with the hopes of you allowing them to fix it).
    3) Write down all the issues you are having so you don't forget anything
    4) Be prepared to spend $2,000 to $5000 in repairs. I am not kidding unfortunately.

    Anything we advise you on here is supposition and educated guesswork due to the sheer amount of issues you are having.

    Last, if you can afford to have it repaired, it is a great driving, great looking, versatile vehicle. However, it is a truck and has expensive, heavy-duty parts that cost a ton of money, so if you have 4 kids and a limited income, get rid of it and buy a front wheel drive, highly rated, reliable car that has less things to break!!! Sorry!!!! :+(
  • I recently changed the pads and calipers on my Cherokee. I have bled the brakes, and I did not bench bleed calipers but I did check them to makes sure they were full of fluid then bled system again. Now I can't get enough pressure to stop the car quickly. I can pump them up a little when the engine is off but when it is on they have almost no pressure. They do slow the car down to a stop but not very quickly. What might cause this. I am new to the Jeep thing and I am stumped. Thanks for any info.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,174
    edited August 2011
    Check to make sure there isn't gunk blocking the line coming out of the master cyl. When you bled the brakes, any sediment in the system goes to the bottom and may be partially blocking one of the lines.

    Other than that, reduced pressure = leak! :=(
  • About a month ago, I purchased a 1998 Jeep Cherokee. I took it for a test drive and drove it on the street and also took it out on the freeway. Everything seemed to be working just fine on the vehicle. I checked the oil and it seemed fine and though the engine looked a bit dirty, I felt comfortable with the purchase. I gave the guy the money and drove the vehicle home. The drive home was about 20 minutes and about a block away from my house I had to stop at a stop light. Suddenly I saw the oil pressure drop to 0. I suddenly felt like I had been taken, but I still went home and purchased my insurance to make sure I had the vehicle covered. Not feeling great about my purchase, the one thing that has been keeping me going is that I know the Inline 6 cylinder 4.0 engine is one of the best engines any American car company has ever put into production. So, I thought that a full tune up and an oil and filter change would do the trick. I called a mechanic I trust, and scheduled the appointment for the following Saturday to have the tune up and oil and filter change done. I took the Jeep Cherokee in and my mechanic did a full tune up and the oil an filter change. I picked up the vehicle the next day, and I took my Jeep out for a drive. I drove for about 30 minutes and then had to stop at that same stop light, and of course the oil pressure dropped again though close to 0 but not all the way. I parked the car and did a bit of research online. I found out that a lot of people are having the same issue with their Jeep Inline 6 4.0 engine also. The first thing I did was change the Oil Pressure Sending Unit. This unit sends the information to your pressure gauge in your dash. Apparently they can be faulty as they can be hit or knocked out of place because they stick out slightly from the engine. So, I purchased one for $40, and things seemed to be fine again, but again it was only for about a half hour. The oil pressure dropped again! So on Thursday, I called my mechanic and explained the situation to him. I told him that I changed the Oil Pressure Sending Unit but it did not seem to work. He said that something has got to be blocking the oil from getting to my engine, so we decided to do an engine flush to see if that would get any sludge out of the engine that may be blocking the oil from coming into the engine. So, the oil flush was done on Saturday, and again on Sunday I picked up my car. I drove the car for about 2 days before the engine's oil pressure dropped again, and of course it was at a stop light. So, this is where things currently are for me. I have spoke to my mechanic and also another mechanic who specializes in Jeeps. They both seem to think that it could be the oil pump, but before I spend the $650.00 I have been quoted on the repair, I have decided to take a look at the oil pressure before it goes to the engine. In order to do this, I am purchasing a Mechanic Oil Pressure gauge, pulling the Oil Pressure Sending unit off, inserting the Oil Pressure Gauge, and testing to see if the measurements are within the specs that are in the owners manual. This will be happening on 9/11/11. I have been doing a bit more research on this problem and I have heard that it could be the oil filter is not compatible with my engine and that a Napa Gold oil filter worked for others. The Mechanic Oil Pressure gauge will tell me what the pressure is before the oil is pumped through the the filter and through the engine. If the pressure is low before the oil is pumped through the filter and into the engine, then I know the problem is the oil pump. If the pressure is fine before the oil is pumped through the filter and into the engine, then I know there is some loss of pressure in the engine. So, this is where things currently stand. If anyone else can think of anything that might help, please let me know. I will be watching for updates.
  • I have a 1994 JGC with the same engine. It has nearly 300,000 miles on the original engine. My oil pressure gauge goes from 0 - 80 at any given time with no apparent reason. Instead of relying on the gauge I rely on the performance of the engine. Oil and filter changes every 3500 miles and everything has been fine since I bought my Jeep 15 years ago. My mechanic tells me its as strong now as its ever been.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,174
    edited September 2011
    9/11/11 is a good day to commit to a jihad on our crappy trucks that we repair and repair and repair. I would like to listen to my gps calmly saying "recalculating" as it plunges to its death at a local cliff. I will never buy an american car again. Sad. :+( BTW, if your Jeep product is red, you can call it a "crimson jihad".

    No I am not trying to make fun of the sad events at 9/11, but only to poke fun at a vehicle that J have poured thousands of dollars into.
  • I am not car savvy at all. My Jeep is an automatic... I've been having some problems- staling when I back up, some slack in shifting, and possibly misfiring of the spark plugs. I took it in for a mechanic (friend of a friend) to do an electrical check of some kind (free). He said about 4 spark plugs were misfiring. He told me he could run a check on the whole engine ($75) but the spark plugs probably needed to be changed. Trying to save a little money, I bought the spark plugs and my ex and oldest son offered to do it for me. They had no clue what they were doing either. So, they removed all the wires on one side at once before they realized they were supposed to do it one at a time. They said all the wires on that side seemed to be in the wrong place (according to the diagram). They replaced all the plugs and it wouldn't crank. Then they put new wires and a new distributor cap cord on. It still won't crank. I'm concerned that it's something more serious. But, before they worked on it, it would crank. Could there be an alternative firing order for the cords to the spark plugs? That's what we keep wondering, because they said the old cords were in a different order when it was running. We really need help! I can't afford to take it in!
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,174
    You have got to take it in. The reason your plugs are not firing is due to an ignition or computer issue. 4 plugs do not go bad all at once. The plugs are a symptom of a greater electrical issue.

    Sorry! :lemon:
  • deeceesd. Thanks for the posts. I'm having the same issue as you described on my '11 GC 5.7L. I have not taken it to the dealer yet. I'm at approximately 3,000 miles. Curious of the fix if you ever got a resolution from Chrysler? I too was questioning the locking torque converter.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,174
    edited September 2011
    I am sorry your Grand Cherokee is deceased. Are there funeral Arrangements? Possibly a viewing? Or is it so horribly messed up that it is a closed repair bay service? LOL.

    I still love my Grand Cherokee, especially the music of the V8. however, never a day goes by that I do not regret buying it and sinking 10,000.00 in repairs over the past 5 years. It has been difficult. Every repair I have had is over $2000.00.
    I will not buy one again. It was just too much. I am gun-shy of Chrysler forever! :cry:
  • Well first things first...you want to start with the most basic, most importantly, cheapest things first. (I just realized how old this post is...lol...still) If the fuel pump goes out it won't crank at all...you can turn the key to the ON position just before trying to start it. You should hear the fuel pump kick on for just a sec or two at the rear of the vehicle (it is at the top of the gas tank). In the fuel system I would start with the fuel filter first. People would be amazed to know the types of problems which can be caused by not keeping up with regular maintenance of a vehicle (changing the oil and oil filter, changing the fuel filter, changing the spark plugs and spark plug wires, chainging the air filter.) I had a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the inline 6 cylinder engine. Very simple cars to work on. Its system does not have things such as a throttle adjustment screw...if it is not idling or running correctly start with these minor things first (according to the symptoms of the issue you are having...starting system, etc...). You have to drop the gas tank to get to the fuel pump on these vehicles...its not that difficult but a new one does cost about $300. Had to do this on mine while I owned it. These tips can be used with almost all vehicles...they are all very similar. Except for CHRYSLER!!!! Steer clear of those!!!! lol. My wife owns a 97 Sebring and it has given me and all mechanics I know more problems than any vehicle.
  • my 1996 gc laredo w 218.000 miles has been dying while driving or coming to a stop. The oil pressure dropped to zero just before. No "check engine light". I could restart it immediately dropping into neutral while coasting along. this worked good on freeways but it's stressful to say the least. Have had my mechanic replace coolant sensor, temp sensor, crank position sensor & new battery & belt. Display kept showing "bad coolant sensor. Then it wouldn't start. Finally took it to jeep dealer who replaced plugs & wires, cleaned distributor, new gasket on valve cover for $700. Said they wouldn't reset the computer module. After driving it for 4 hours and about 300 miles running just great it up and dies again, once when stopping, then when underway. Jeep dealer says it needs a new PCM & ignition coil for another $1000. Hate give up this car as it goes anywhere and is a joy to drive, but is it worth it now? Anyone with any more ideas?
  • b_webb_web Posts: 4
    I just went through this with my 94 JGC. I did all the same things you did. It did end up being the PCM. Once the PCM was replaced for $500 I have had no issues. When you think about it, it makes sense. It is a very old computer, how long is it supposed to last. Mine was in bad shape when they pulled it off. It also corrected my hard starting problem. Good luck.
  • Hi...did you ever get a fix for your misfire issue? I have been returning mine for updates and checks for this for 10 months. Finally pulled spark plugs myself and found two cylinders appearing to burning very lean and a couple others looking rich and some indications of oil going through them. Finally got call from Customer service and was told no codes so no problem!!!!! Informed her that issue showed up after about 3,000 and was minor annoyance but has continually gotten worse. they did not care..no codes, no problem was the set "line". Email me if possible and let me know? dabooth@selectca.com
  • halo2halo2 Posts: 11
    No--Finally had the factory tech come in an drive it--he said that the hesitation is a normal function of the multi displacement system that switches between 8 cylinders and 4. He said to over ride it put it in 5th gear or push the tow haul button. That works some, but I should not have to do that. I love everything about the jeep gc except the hemi with MDS. I'll guarantee you that the next one I buy will not have the Hemi in it.
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 litre V8 engine and have had it in the shop and have been shopping around for a rebuilt engine at the request of the mechanic I use. When the problem occurred the temp gauge maxed out twice then it started making a clanking noise so I pulled over and had it towed to my garage.The mechanic said it would be less expensive purchasing a rebuilt motor for it rather than spending the time finding what the problem is and then fix it.Any resemblances or suggestions would greatly help ( my pocket book also)
  • Unreal...the last time mine was in (about 2 weeks ago) they told me this was a combination of the MDS, the torque converter locking and unlocking and how lean they were running the engine. NO ANSWERS as to why it was not present when new nor any explanation as to why it has gotten worse.

    NO WAY a "premium" vehicle that we paid money for should run like this. I could have purchased a 10K little puddle jumper that would not run like this. I am extremely disappointed with this running issue on this vehicle...it makes it worse that I love the looks, drive and features but will likely not buy Jeep again.
  • My 95 Jeep has a weird issue. the only way to start it is to turn the key to on position and wait until the fuel pump and auto shut off relays start clicking and then stop. Once the relays stop clicking it will start. I can shut it off and immediately restart but if i leave it off for more than a few minutes i have to wait until the relays start clicking and stop again before it will start. I notice if i leave the battery terminals off and let the computer reset this process doesn't take as long...any ideas?
  • b_webb_web Posts: 4
    I had the exact same problem with my 94 JGC. After replacing every sensor under the hood and my fuel pump, the result was the computer. After I replaced the computer it ran like new and it fires right up even in cold weather. Good luck.
  • Just fixed mine after trying foreever to fix it. It was the idle control motor. Has not been a problem since. They cleaned it and works great. 100 dollar fix
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