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Lincoln Continental Maintenance and Repair

13

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  • kylehkyleh Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Lincoln Continental and am looking for the proper procedure to replace the belt tensioner pulley, since is mounted on the inside of the tensioner arm, is it required to pull the engine to get to it, or is their an easier way. HELP
  • cphilcphil Posts: 13
    My 2002 Lincoln Continental warning system tells me to check my brake light..I did and found one bulb out on the left side.. Fortunatly it has two in the same place so I still have one working but I would like to get the other bulb replaced. I looked into my instruction book that came with the car and it says to take the car to a dealership to have the bulb changed..I can just imagine how much that will cost if I have to do that. Does anyone know any way I can do it myself?
    Thanks, Cat
  • I just now logged on after a looong absence. I'm also having problems with the suspension on my '95. The front end drops overnight and the compressor has to cycle far too much when I'm moving. Took it in for some minor repair (I bought two air line repair kits and had the Lincoln garage repair the leaking air lines coming from the air dryer on the compressor). While there I asked the tech to also inspect the suspension. He found some leakage in the front air springs, repaired the requested line and $158.00 labor and $38.00 parts later (a few "O" rings and a quick connector in each package - I got two) I drove out. The lines that he repaired leak worse than they did prior to his work.

    I got prices to replace the suspension with original stuff-- $3200.00. I did a search and found a kit to convert to conventional struts on all four corners. It comes from www.strutmasters.com and seems to be the way to go at a little less than $600.00 for all four corners (struts and springs pre-assembled). Local spring shop says about 5 hours @ $70.00 for labor. They are supposed to be simple enough for me to install but due to my age and some hand problems I'm not sure I'll attempt it.

    Right now I've decided to keep it as is knowing that the overworked compressor is going to fail sometime soon. When this happens I'll probably shell out what it costs to do the conversion. I absolutely love the car. It is the best car of all the fifty or so cars I've owned since 1951. It is usually far cheaper to repair what you have than to buy a replacement and since I love this car and don't mind driving old stuff it seems best. I'm at that age when I'm not so much interested in how fast my car will go as I am in how far it will go!

    Gene
  • jim90069jim90069 Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem with the clock bulb. I can reach behind the clock thru the glove compartment, but can't locate any wire for either the clock or the bulb. HELP!!!
  • captmarkcaptmark Posts: 2
    I just purchaced a 95 Lincoln, I didnt notice until i purchaced the car, but the left rear end of the car is sagging when I shut the car off. I needed transportation and its a good running car, is this going to be an expensive fix?
  • jim90069jim90069 Posts: 3
    I purchased my 2000 Continental in 2002 and was told at that time air bag replacement is usually done at 60,000 miles and would cost about $1,500. My car now has just over 94,000 miles and has no mechanical problems period. You could replace just the one bad airbag to solve the problem, or, if it was my car, I would replace both rear airbags and have the fronts checked. And as I type this, maybe it isn't an air bag after all, just your leveling system. Have that checked out first, because it could just be "valve" or something very small.
  • jim90069jim90069 Posts: 3
    I Know you have taken care of this by now, but for others, it sounds like the automatic leveling pump, which will turn after the car has leveled. This is normal.
  • Hello all, I'm new to this forum. I'm having trouble with my 99 lincoln continental. When I come to a complete stop or begin to slow down (approaching a stop sign or red light) my car shuts down. I'm not sure what the problem is though. I have a check engine light on now. When I checked last the message code was for the "first bank". I had that changed an the engine light was taken of. From time to time the engine light will come on then cut off on its own. Now it's on while i'm experiencing this problem. I have a picture of a wire that I think might need to be changed also. If someone can take a look at it and tell me what the name of the wire is it will be much appreciated. It's somewhat near the coiled enigne spark pugs...possible connected.

    Here's the picture below...if it doesn't show then the second link below will have the picture. It's next to the yellow arrow. Thanks in advance.

    http://i39.tinypic.com/2dln1x3.jpg

    http://i39.tinypic.com/2dln1x3.jpg
  • I hope everything worked out with you and your suspension. Was this what you were looking into? http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Air_suspension_on_your_1995_Lincoln_Continental_the_pu- mp_does_not_come_on_and_the_suspension_is_still_low_what_do_you_look_for&updated- =1&waNoAnsSet=2 I was having a similar problem and also went with the conversion kit from Strutmasters.com - The lifetime warranty and ALL American made parts is probably what sealed the deal for me. I LOVE the new suspension. I found that it is just as responsive as the old air ride system and I actually like the ride quality BETTER... Anyways.. Good Luck.. They treated me great. I am sure you will have the same experience.
  • It does not have to be. The air ride suspension systems can get costly because it can be hard for even the best of mechanics to fully diagnose which component actually started the house of cards to fall. Typically dry rot on the inside fold of the air bag (not easily detectable with soapy water test) begins to form tiny hairline cracks and pinholes. That will ultimately overwork your compressor and count yourself lucky if all you have to replace is an air bag or two and a compressor. MOST people do not get off that cheap. My friend got his Navigator converted to a passive spring coil system from Strutmasters.com and loves it. I just placed my order and should have my conversion kit in a couple of days. http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f146299/80 I am paying a local shop to do it and they are only charging me an hour per wheel. The kit came with a lifetime warranty so I am very optimistic that this fix will be my last
  • This is a very common problem with the Lincoln Continentals and with many of the vehicles that are now employing the air ride suspension system. What it sounds like you are experiencing is an air bag leak (not uncommon.. the fragile rubber "balloon" is not designed to sustain temperatures below 40 degrees and over 94 degrees and friction is a big culprit as well) the air bags are prone to dry rot on the inside fold of the air bag (very difficult to detect with soapy water test as it is on inside of the fold).. this will overwork your compressor. For a while it will sound like your compressor may be fine or just kicking on more than usual but it is actually straining to keep that air bag inflated until it will finally die of exhaustion. I finally drew the line at a $1,200 fix (that didn't really FIX the problem) and took my friends advice. I converted my air ride system to a passive coil spring conversion system from Strutmasters.com - the parts came with a lifetime warranty and I could not be happier so far. http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f146299/81 The ride is suprisingly similar and just as responsive as the air ride system (I have found that I actually PREFER the coil spring ride) They told me at Strutmasters.com that this would be a permanent fix to any suspension problems I would have had with this car.. so far it seems that they are right
  • yeah its the air bags over straining the compressor typically. This is a common problem with Lincolns and many of the vehicles that now use an air ride system. In my opinion they are WAY overengineered designed to put more money in the dealership shop pockets. The air bags are not designed for temperatures below 40 degrees or above 94 degrees. They are prone to dry rot on the INSIDE fold of the bag (where it folds over on tself making it VERY difficult to detect with the soapy water test) Once the air bag gets tiny leaks and cracks, it starts over working the compressor trying to keep a "holy balloon" filled with air. Eventually the system falls like a house of cards and ends up being VERY expensive to replace PROPERLY. I converted from my old air ride system on my Continental to a passive conversion kit.. basically taking the compressor, air bag, dryer, solonoid etc out and replacing them with American Steel coiled springs. I got it from Strutmasters.com with a lifetime warranty.. so that gave me some piece of mind. http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f146299/82 I actually LOVE the ride. It is just as responsive as the air system while being smoother in my opinion. Check them out at Strutmasters.com and give a look. Hopefully they can help you as well as they helped me!!
  • captmarkcaptmark Posts: 2
    My car reads full at start up, then goes to empty regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. Is this s ground problem, or a sending unit problem?
  • lmeierlmeier Posts: 2
    did you get your problem fixed. After my 2002 was in storage for 4 months the battery was weak and barely got car started. Now I notice both map lights are on and won't turn off. Any ideas?
  • 2001 Lincoln Continental 68,000 mi in excellent condition Transmission seems to sometimes slip Driving distances (100+mi) have watery transmission fluid leak
    Dealer says expensive to get at transmission and fix Any ideas/alternatives would be appreciated Thanks
  • sin1215sin1215 Posts: 3
    So i had to jump my lincoln 92 continental and my negative line was on the post to the front right of the car. The positive was on the positive and I tried to jump start the car. The car started but just turned on without me having to crank the key all the way forward and there were sparks coming from the negative feed. I immediatley turned off the charger and the car was still running. The odd thing to me was the starter was still trying to start the car untill i put it in drive. I later then moved the car to a friends place and thats when the car didnt want to shut off. For when i put the car into park the starter wanted to still start. To turn the car off i Took both negative and positive feeds off the posts of the battery and took out the sixth fuse in the box under the hood. Does any body have any suggestions that would help out my problem? I have already changed the solenoid for the starter relay on the fenderwall. So i know it cant be that. I dont have a multimeter so i might need one of those to check if its the starter. Please if anyone has had this happen or seen it happen I would really appreciate the feedback.
  • sin1215sin1215 Posts: 3
    I found out that it was the old command start that was put in the car had been fried.
    All i had to do was take out the damn thing and it was good as new
  • I disconnected my battery , connected it again and now the map lights and courtesy lights inside will not go off. Please advise.
  • I am new at this . I was reading your issue they were great they helped me.
  • nekeneke Posts: 1
    I drive a 98 lincoln Continental and I think your problem could be your coil pacs. If you could get someone to put it on a diagnostic machine it can help discover which one it is. Good luck.
  • 88lcss88lcss Posts: 1
    not potential, but actual cause.
    i have 88 LCSS, this is a designer/collector car that sold for almost 30k.
    it was a hybrid idea by a designer who applied the designs of a luxury town car with the sport mustang, this car was available for only one model year because luxury car buyers walked away from ford/lincoln which forced them to go back to luxury only...
    the original designer of the 88 LCSS was fired also prior to the unveiling of this car because it would have cost $900 more/car to build. instead of trashing the design, ford/lincoln hired a new designer who's first attack on the design was to cheese-ball the electrical system. unfortunetly, its been this way ever since.
    if your cluster is damaged, it is a result of a bad electrical system, but none the less, the electrical system will cause more than a faulty air ride system problem as the entire system is barely heavy enough to support the electrical loads needed by the car.
    if your car is electric this and electric that, then you must feel as bad as i do, but i like my 88 LCSS, and as time goes on, i will have non factory modifications made to eliminate ford's way of making money off us.
    air ride, seperate the system and isolate it from dependency of other system componants.
    charging system, remove the power distribution block and utilize heavier gauge wiring so the electricals work off both the battery and alternator.

    idea...under factory, if your air ride shorts out such as mine does, its going to short out the brake hydroboost pump's pressure sensor (which means no brakes period), and unlike old cars, even standing on the brake pedal wont help.
    fortunately, i was on my way home going uphill when this happened (thank God my van was up against the curb behind me as i rolled backwards into it...LOL)

    all in all, best advice, find a reputable electrical specialist and have all components properly wired and non integrated...
  • Ive had a problem with my tires deflating. New ones at that. They told me the chrome was coming off the wheel or rim, and it wont let the tire seal. Has anyone heard of this. And, what to do about it.
  • Recently purchased a 77 Continental with a 460 engine. Problem is car has sat in a garage for last 3 years. Now engine runs fine, until it gets hot/ warms up than it just shuts off. Give it 3 to 4 hours to cool down and starts right back up again and repeats. Car has had a new fuel pump, gas tank, and recently tuned up, plugs, wire, cap, rotor. Will not go farther than 20 or 30 miles, and than it happens. Its not like it stalls, it just dies. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • I think the problem maybe the shop putting on the tire, are not seating it on the rim. Pull the tire off the rim and see where the tire bead meets the rim, and look to see if the chrome is coming off. If it is take a wire brush and just brush all excess off. Replace tire and when new tire is on rim bring it up to around 50 LBS PSI, than bring it back down to your 32 or 36 and drive it for a couple miles. If the chrome is coming off the rim, than you may need to get all the chrome off where the bead steats, and repeat process. Check tire valve at core and there that sits in rim.
  • lmeierlmeier Posts: 2
    Finally figured out it was the time delay somehow got set way too long. Reset and now fine.
  • Here's an update on my suspension. I hope it will help someone.

    I drive a ’95 Continental that has become my most favorite car of the fifty vehicles I’ve owned since 1951. It also is one of the best cars I’ve owned. All that to say, I really hated to think of giving it up when the air suspension started showing signs of failing. I thought things over for nine months, drove some new cars, then decided to go with a complete new Strutmasters system, including new rear shocks. I’ve had the new suspension for six weeks and have driven it nearly 4,000 miles.

    Over all I’m pretty satisfied, enough so that I’d do it again. One problem I have, and it may not be a problem: There isn’t much front spring travel so the car bottoms out on sharp dips and bumps (such as speed bumps). It seems that just a bit more spring travel would be better.

    The other problem had to do with getting the car aligned after the install (the installer doesn’t do alignments). In order to bring the car within specs the alignment shop had to modify the front strut towers by drilling the three mounting holes in different locations. It drives excellent and so far I see no undue tire wear so I think we’re good on that issue.

    Total cost breakdown is as follows:
    Cost of front & rear strutmasters suspension (including rear shocks and shipping charges) — $824.00
    Boise Spring Works, 4 hours labor to install— 290.00
    Big O Tire, modification & alignment— 130.00
    TOTAL $1,244.00
  • i have to replace the torque converter in my 1999 lincoln continental. what is the easiest way to do this. i need the best technique to do this beside " take it to a trans shop"
  • Unless your mechanical abilities are well above average and you have some good equipment the job is out of your reach. Why do you think you need a torque converter?
  • i am having the same problem but my car is a 98. Have u figured out how it is done?
  • carleton44carleton44 Posts: 1
    My Continental runs good until the engine gets hot and I stop the car for a length of time,but when I restart to leave the engine spits and sputters and the car want run any faster than 20 miles per hour.If I pull the car over and let the engine cool for 5 min. it will start and run fine.When the engine spits and spurts I can see smoke coming from between the firewall and engine.Any ideas will get me started.
    Thanks
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