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Lincoln Continental Maintenance and Repair



  • 88lcss88lcss Posts: 1
    not potential, but actual cause.
    i have 88 LCSS, this is a designer/collector car that sold for almost 30k.
    it was a hybrid idea by a designer who applied the designs of a luxury town car with the sport mustang, this car was available for only one model year because luxury car buyers walked away from ford/lincoln which forced them to go back to luxury only...
    the original designer of the 88 LCSS was fired also prior to the unveiling of this car because it would have cost $900 more/car to build. instead of trashing the design, ford/lincoln hired a new designer who's first attack on the design was to cheese-ball the electrical system. unfortunetly, its been this way ever since.
    if your cluster is damaged, it is a result of a bad electrical system, but none the less, the electrical system will cause more than a faulty air ride system problem as the entire system is barely heavy enough to support the electrical loads needed by the car.
    if your car is electric this and electric that, then you must feel as bad as i do, but i like my 88 LCSS, and as time goes on, i will have non factory modifications made to eliminate ford's way of making money off us.
    air ride, seperate the system and isolate it from dependency of other system componants.
    charging system, remove the power distribution block and utilize heavier gauge wiring so the electricals work off both the battery and alternator.

    idea...under factory, if your air ride shorts out such as mine does, its going to short out the brake hydroboost pump's pressure sensor (which means no brakes period), and unlike old cars, even standing on the brake pedal wont help.
    fortunately, i was on my way home going uphill when this happened (thank God my van was up against the curb behind me as i rolled backwards into it...LOL)

    all in all, best advice, find a reputable electrical specialist and have all components properly wired and non integrated...
  • Ive had a problem with my tires deflating. New ones at that. They told me the chrome was coming off the wheel or rim, and it wont let the tire seal. Has anyone heard of this. And, what to do about it.
  • Recently purchased a 77 Continental with a 460 engine. Problem is car has sat in a garage for last 3 years. Now engine runs fine, until it gets hot/ warms up than it just shuts off. Give it 3 to 4 hours to cool down and starts right back up again and repeats. Car has had a new fuel pump, gas tank, and recently tuned up, plugs, wire, cap, rotor. Will not go farther than 20 or 30 miles, and than it happens. Its not like it stalls, it just dies. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • I think the problem maybe the shop putting on the tire, are not seating it on the rim. Pull the tire off the rim and see where the tire bead meets the rim, and look to see if the chrome is coming off. If it is take a wire brush and just brush all excess off. Replace tire and when new tire is on rim bring it up to around 50 LBS PSI, than bring it back down to your 32 or 36 and drive it for a couple miles. If the chrome is coming off the rim, than you may need to get all the chrome off where the bead steats, and repeat process. Check tire valve at core and there that sits in rim.
  • lmeierlmeier Posts: 2
    Finally figured out it was the time delay somehow got set way too long. Reset and now fine.
  • Here's an update on my suspension. I hope it will help someone.

    I drive a ’95 Continental that has become my most favorite car of the fifty vehicles I’ve owned since 1951. It also is one of the best cars I’ve owned. All that to say, I really hated to think of giving it up when the air suspension started showing signs of failing. I thought things over for nine months, drove some new cars, then decided to go with a complete new Strutmasters system, including new rear shocks. I’ve had the new suspension for six weeks and have driven it nearly 4,000 miles.

    Over all I’m pretty satisfied, enough so that I’d do it again. One problem I have, and it may not be a problem: There isn’t much front spring travel so the car bottoms out on sharp dips and bumps (such as speed bumps). It seems that just a bit more spring travel would be better.

    The other problem had to do with getting the car aligned after the install (the installer doesn’t do alignments). In order to bring the car within specs the alignment shop had to modify the front strut towers by drilling the three mounting holes in different locations. It drives excellent and so far I see no undue tire wear so I think we’re good on that issue.

    Total cost breakdown is as follows:
    Cost of front & rear strutmasters suspension (including rear shocks and shipping charges) — $824.00
    Boise Spring Works, 4 hours labor to install— 290.00
    Big O Tire, modification & alignment— 130.00
    TOTAL $1,244.00
  • i have to replace the torque converter in my 1999 lincoln continental. what is the easiest way to do this. i need the best technique to do this beside " take it to a trans shop"
  • Unless your mechanical abilities are well above average and you have some good equipment the job is out of your reach. Why do you think you need a torque converter?
  • i am having the same problem but my car is a 98. Have u figured out how it is done?
  • carleton44carleton44 Posts: 1
    My Continental runs good until the engine gets hot and I stop the car for a length of time,but when I restart to leave the engine spits and sputters and the car want run any faster than 20 miles per hour.If I pull the car over and let the engine cool for 5 min. it will start and run fine.When the engine spits and spurts I can see smoke coming from between the firewall and engine.Any ideas will get me started.
  • I just purchased a 2002 Continental. It has 98K miles. Water pump was just fixed under 30 day warranty and although alternator charging low, its "still within range" (which means as long as I dont conk out on the road, it aint getting fixed) Took it to the dealer multiple times for an annoying problem that doesnt happen all the time but gets me nervous when it does. It seems when I switch gears from reverse to drive at times, it just shuts off on me. I have to throw it in park, turn key off then on and it starts right up. The dealer tried to duplicate the problem and couldnt so Im still without a fix. Now sometimes when i come to a full stop the same thing happens. And again I have to repeat same process. It seems like an electrical problem but unsure what it is. It doesnt happen every single time, but often enough and the last thing I want to do is come to a point when it doesnt start up anymore. Any help and feedback would be very much appreciated.
  • Carleton, it sounds to me like you have a clogged catalytic converter. They get partially clogged, then cause a lot of running problems. They have also been known to send the vehicles up in flames from this, so check it asap! Ford products were very prone to this back in the 80's, tho I haven't heard of it happening as much since then, but I sure wouldn't chance it. You should feel an increase in temperature around the firewall and/or floor boards too if that is the problem, but I wouldn't just rely on that symptom alone.
  • It may sound strange to you, but it isn't as strange as it sounds: It could be a stretched/worn serpentine belt, a weak tensioner spring on the belt, a worn down idler pulley, or all 3 combined. Any of these can allow the car to run, but cause just enough slack in the belt tension to have a water pump appear to fail, or and alternator run sporadically. I would change all 3 of those, if you haven't done it already. Sometimes when shifting into gear you can get a slight increase in the electrical draw down, (usually caused by stepping on the brake pedal and engaging the brake lights) which could be enough of a drop in current to cause the engine to die.
  • djguapdjguap Posts: 1
    i recently bought a 199 lincoln continental. It was running real rough after sitting up for the previous year, so i changed the spark plugs out to some nice platinum ones.....But to my shock the car is now running worse..stalling when in gear and "stuttering" like its about to stall..i have changed vacuum lines, checked the pcv, air filter... any ideas??
  • The waterpump has recently been changed. Suprisingly, i am able to duplicate the problem. What I do is come at a complete stop, with car still in drive, I turn the steering wheel from left to right repeatedly and the car turns off within seconds. I had a bit of a scare the other day, when I was making a right turn and in the middle of the turn the car started to drain power and I could barely move the steering wheel , so I just accelerated slightly and was able to make it through the turn without the car shutting off. It sounds like what you described because it seems to only occur when on the brakes and turning the steering wheel. I hope this isnt gonna be a big job.
  • cphilcphil Posts: 13
    I once had my air filter replaced at the same time as having my oil changed on my 02 lincoln Continental. It started acting the same way as yours afterwards..I finally discovered that the new air filter had not been installed properly and the band was loose that holds them in place..Once that was reinstalled the problem was solved..Just a thought here that maybe you didnt tighten something or the other enough when changing the waterpump?
    Good luck on your search for the problem your having.
  • My car had the same problem. I got a new water pump put in but it still had problems. The reason was the shop that did the water pump didn't know how to bleed the coolant corectly. It sat for a long time because I was told it needed a new engine, which I couldn't afford. Then i took it to another shop and they bled it for me for about $50.
  • Have 2001 LContinental w/72K miles. Recently a message about the steering appeared: Problem with assisted steering. At that point the steering 'froze' until I turned the car off and restarted it. It's happened maybe 5 times in the last 2 weeks.
    One garage said it could be the level of power steering fluid and another said immediately it was the power steering pump. Any info on what to do. Thanks.
  • kalebkaleb Posts: 1
    '96 Continental,4.6L V8, 136,000 miles. Drove ~ 100 miles city & highway. Once, after starting the car after it sat in a parking lot for 30 minutes, it wouldn't idle, stumbling and stalling. Had to rev engine, maybe 1/2 throttle, to get it to move. After it got going, it ran fine the rest of the day. The next day, it cranks but will not start, doesn't even try to fire. Scan tool passes; no codes. 1/2 tank of gas, fuel pressure is 37 psi at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Inductive timing light shows no spark at plugs. PCM relay is ok; swapped it with the blower motor relay to test it. Fuses to the PCM are ok. PCM supply voltage (B+) and reference voltage (5V) is ok; checked at the PCM wiring harness.
  • Kyleh,

    Did you get that tensioner off? I have a 2000 Continental w/ the retaining torx bolt unscrewed loose and leaning on the wheel well. I'm wondering if I have to lift the engine 1/2" to get this thing off.

    What's the answer?
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