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What is this thing worth?



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    You can buy a nice Model A pretty cheap these days.

    I'm partial to the 4-door Town Sedan because it's the only one with a decent amount of room for the driver. Americans must have been a lot smaller in 1928.

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,067
    How cheap? I kinda miss the one I had.

    It was a 1930.

    Mine was just a 2 door coupe witout a rumble seat. Beige with yellow wire wheels.

    So, Calif rust free car that I bought from the second owner in about 1972. I remember he bought it from the first owner in 1948.

    It ran good, and MAN could it ever backfire when I wanted to get rid of dogs that would chase it!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    I think I could find you a pretty decent Model A right now for about $6,000, ready to roll, and reasonably attractive. This is, of course, for the less popular body styles.

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,067
    My body style was one of the less desirable ones but it did have the cowl lights which gave it a good look.

    Help me here...when I was a kid working in a gas station, we let a guy park his Model A on our lot with a For Sale sign in it. It was totally stock and it had a top that looked like a convertable top but I don't think it actually went down.

    Am I right? It had a rumble seat,it ran OK and he wanted 250.00 for it if I recall correctly.

    We also had a customer who traded his 1955 Chevy Bel Air for a 1931 Model A Victoria. Ever see one of those?
  • fintailfintail Posts: 38,006
    I think the fake convertibles might have been called "sport coupes", these even had landau bars.

    The victoria was a fairly elegant body for that car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    Oh yeah, we still have a fair number of Model As running around California. I often see one at least once a week.

    You have to remember, they made a LOT of them, and the aftermarket for Model As is probably the largest (or was) aftermarket in the world at one time.

    My brother bought a Model A for $35, in 1964 I think it was, he told me (he's older than me, as you might gather).

    I once won a '59 Chevy in a poker game, in lieu of $75 debt. I used it for a while when I taught high school in Brooklyn New York. It was a car they could not further destroy to get even with me. :P

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,067
    Speaking of Model A's.

    A family member inherited one recently. It's a Model A Pickup truck.

    Do it yourself restoration done years ago, then it was parked. It hasn't been started fior probably ten years. For many years, it was on display at a plumbing store in Portland Oregon. It had been the service truck for years before being restored and retired.

    It is rust free and straight. The engine looks like it has just been overhauled and it turns over freely. The fenders are fiberglass but the originals are with the truck and they look so good I don't know why they were even replaced.

    The family that owns it now has no interest in doing anything to it and it is stored in a garage and ignored.

    The truck is totally original and nothing has been modified.

    Are trucks worth more or less than cars? Shifty? Want to take a stab at it's value?

    I'll bet I could get it running in an hour!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    Sounds like $3K-$4. The pickups are worth more than the A coupes but less than the open cars and about the same as the 4-door. You should lowball it and see what happens, since it's not running---offer $2,500, that's fair enough, You can always get it running and spiffed up a bit and flip it for $5K-$6K if you don't like it.

    Model As are great fun and you can buy any part you need---ANY part, shipped right to your door. And of course, easy to fix except for a few items that take GRUNT like the rear leaf spring. The engine has about as many moving parts as a Vermont wood stove.

    Biggest issue is fitting yourself behind the steering wheel. As are *very* tight in there. Not sure why Henry built 'em like that, but I'm sure he had a rational for it---he always did, even if it was totally wrong.

    I just love flipping the advance lever and idle speed lever on the steering wheel and stromping down on the starter pedal and listening to that WHIRR....WHIRR....GASP....pocketa-pocketa......

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,067
    It's not for sale, at least not now anyway.

    I remember once when one of our cars was in the shop, I had to press the Model A into daily service. Luckilly, my commute was only about five miles each way.

    After work one day, the battery had run down and it wouldn't start.

    I got out the crank but after hearing many scary stories, I was afraid to use it! I stuck it in the hole and gently turned it.

    Then, this "old guy" he was probably 65, yelled at me...

    " Hey there! do ya know what you're doing"

    " Ah...not really"

    He walked over..." Let me start that son of a &%$# for ya"

    He adjusted the spark and throttle levers and walked to the front of the car.

    " Now, if you advance the spark too much, the SOB will backfire and break your arm if you're not holding it's how ya hold it!"

    And he vigorously cranked it over and over until it gasped and started!

    The, he jumped behind the wheel and expertly adjusted spark and throttle until it just purred!

    " Does the horn still work? "

    "Sure, try it"


    I got home just before dark which was a good thing. It still had the original headlights and the reflectors needed to be "resilvered"
  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,458
    Now that is a funny story.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    As long as you lift UP on the lever with your palm pointed to the sky, and you are between 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock, turning clockwise, you are fine. NEVER crank past 12 o'clock so that your arm is thrusting down toward the ground. If the engine backfires, and you are at 9 o;clock, it will merely push your hand downward; but if you are pushing DOWN on the lever say at 3 o'clock, it can hurt you.

    Probably a Model A has such low compression that it wouldn't break anything, but it might sprain you. Cranking a big 6 would be riskier.

    I used to crank engines on airplanes in Alaska. That was fun, as you had both backfire and a guillotine to worry about. Prop starting was even more fun, but up there, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, as John Wayne would say.

    Another fun experience is kick starting a 441 BSA Lightning motorcycle. That's a one cylinder bike. So it's like cranking a 3.0 V-6. Fortunately they provide a compression release lever.

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,067
    So, would a Model A truck have an even lower rear end ratio than the cars did? I'll bet they did but I don't know.

    All of this has me looking on ebay. Quite a few of them there and not that inexpensive. There was a nice sedan I liked until I read it had been Mickey Moused up with a Pinto engine!

    Not one of those dumb Shay replicas either!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    You should look at Prices are more real world. I bet most of the Ebay auctions do not meet reserve.

    Besides half the fun of a Model A is fixing it up.

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  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 10,990
    my '91 mustang is not old enough for hagerty/grundy to insure it.
    it is a gt convertible, looks new, has about 33k on it, runs great, but needs maintenance. basically, it is really, really original.
    i am thinking about agreed value with my regular insurer.
    my number is about 10k. from what i understand, i have to get an appraisal.
    what is a ballpark figure for one, and is it worth it?
    my original dream is about to be fullfilled. my youngest kid will be able to drive it starting monday(if the weather is good). :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    That's a pretty strong price for that car. Not sure if an appraiser can meet your expectations. Perhaps, if he can find very low miles comparables. But the price guides are much lower on the car, so he/she will have to compensate by digging out low milers. Sounds like $7,500 is all the money in the world here.

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  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 10,990
    here is what i am looking at for for my number. i realize these are asking prices:

    i really like this one and it is located only a couple of hours from where i live. a year older and 5k more miles, but limited edition:
    7 up

    pretty close to what i have, but 2 years newer, leather, 10k less miles:
    very white

    ebay: i have black top, black cloth
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    I see eBay agrees with $7,500, so far. Keep an eye on that auction and print it out when it ends. This would be a good comp for you.

    The other comparables aren't really accurate. The one car is two years newer, and these Mustangs behave like used cars in price, not like the newer they are, the more they are worth. A 93 is worth more than a 91 by about $1,500 to $2,000 dollars.

    As for the 7-Up edition, that's worth way more than your car, so no good on comps there.

    Oh I'm sorry you asked about price of an appraisal as well. That usually runs from $150 to $225, depending on who does it and how well. Sometimes a dealer will write something up for you for cheap, but that's a bit risky when it comes to settlement time, and it's possible your insurance company won't take such a "brief" appraisal. But maybe they will.

    I'm kind of surprised they would even write an "agreed upon" value. Usually it's just ACV or "stated value" with these larger companies.

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  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,967
    I'm partial to the 4-door Town Sedan because it's the only one with a decent amount of room for the driver. Americans must have been a lot smaller in 1928.

    That might be part of it, but at that point in time, I think the idea of just having a car was still considered a luxury, and we hadn't really progressed to the point of a roomy, comfortable car yet. At least, not for the driver...sure, there were luxury cars and limos built that were great for the back seat passengers, but probably torture for the chauffeur. Remember at that time, cars were still evolving from the old stagecoaches and wagons that came before them.

    Even in the 40's and early 50's, a lot of cars really didn't have a whole lot of legroom. I remember sitting in a late 40's Buick that was for sale at a swap meet, and was really disappointed at how cramped it was. The seat was high up, but way too close to the pedals and firewall to be of any use to me. And that bus steering wheel took up a lot of space. Really makes you wonder how heavyset people could squeeze behind the wheel back in those days.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    Probably 1928 was just at the cusp of a new attitude about cars 'being comfortable. In 1919, perhaps only 1 in 10 cars were closed. By 1930, it was the other way 'round completely. I think it was designers like Harley Earl who projected the idea that a car was an item of style and comfort as well as mere utility. Henry Ford himself despised fancy, cushy cars. One time his workers made up a fancy Model T for him, painting it red and putting all kinds of goo-gahs on it, and he got so furious he had it destroyed.

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  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 10,990
    mr. shifty. thanks for your insight. i was only proposing an agreed value policy.
    i will just leave it as is. the local agents can't even get which vehicles i own correct.
    91 stangs have a forged piston engine, which was downgraded the next year.
    full insurance goes into effect tomorrow, but the weather for the next week or so, doesn't look to good, so it will just sit in the garage for a while longer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    Maybe one of the other specialty insurers will take it on? There are quite a few of these companies. You can get a good list from

    It would be good to get an agreed upon policy on the car; otherwise, if its ACV policy they're gonna offer you $3,500 bucks for it, and that's not good.

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  • splaysplay Posts: 1
    a friend of mine has a 40-42 dodge coupe, just the main shell, sitting in his yard, not banged up, not rusted through except the floor is gone.... he's getting ready to scrap it, could anyone give me a guess on what kind of money he could get for it?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 10,990
    i already found out the hagerty and grundy are not interested, not old enough.
    nothing the matter with poking arounds hemmings for a while though!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    (see list below for alternative)

    I'd love to have an insurance company named SNEED. It's like nobody would mess with you. "OH YEAH? Well I got SNEED insurance buddy, so you are dead meat!"

    • American Collectors Insurance Inc.
    498 Kings Highway N, P.O. Box 8343
    Cherry Hill, NJ 08034
    800-360-2277, 856-779-7212

    • American Hobbyist Ins. Agency
    2501 SE Aviation Way
    Stuart, FL 34996
    800-395-4835, 772-287-9363

    • Condon & Skelly
    121 E. Kings Highway, Suite 203
    Maple Shade, NJ 08052

    • Great American Insurance
    Classic Collectors Program
    P.O. Box 429569
    Cincinnati, OH 45242-9569

    • J.C. Taylor Antique Automobile Ins. Agency
    320 South 69th St.
    Upper Darby, PA 19082
    800-345-8290, 610-853-1300

    • Sneed Insurance
    PO Box 34698
    Memphis, TN 38184-0698

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  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 10,990
    i kind of like condon & skelly(cadaver & skeleton), kind of a goth thing.
    one thing i have figured out is that you need each driver in your family to have a primary driver other than the vehicle you want to insure.
    i'm about to be 4 cars, 4 drivers. :sick:
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 9,069
    Does anyone have any idea what a reasonable price would be for a car in absolutely immaculate condition?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2004 X3 2.5i Son's: 2009 328i

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    that depends heavily on what you mean by "immaculate". You mean 100 pt show car, better than new, or just a very clean restoration meant to be driven?

    If it's a very clean sharp resto but not a show car, probably around $25,000 should do it.

    For show quality, it could bust $30K.

    A #3 "driver", a "ten-footer", perhaps $13,000 to $15,000.

    A kinda shabby but running, all there car, around $7,500

    This is, by the way, a difficult car to restore.

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  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 9,069
    Thanks! The car I'm looking at is on eBay Motors-Item number: 130224521081-and it's not all that far from where I live. I was guessing that $25K would be a fair price, but after talking with some friends I now wonder if the car is TOO nice:




    By that I mean that, while I would never drive it in the ice and snow or use it for a daily driver, I would drive it. Even-HORRORS!-in the rain.
    It sure is a beauty though, and the TR3 has been my favorite "affordable" British sports car ever since I was a kid. I find myself wondering "What would Peter Egan do?" ;)

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2004 X3 2.5i Son's: 2009 328i

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 52,951
    Well there are some drawbacks to the car--it has Webers instead of SUs, so it'll suck gas and never run right on the street (Webers are for tracking a car); it has a TR4 transmission with overdrive, which would be great if one actually drove the car but is useless for a trailer queen; also the restoration was done a long time ago, so apparently the car has had little use.

    And last of all, I hate chrome wires--they should be painted. This is a 60s British sports car for gawd's sake. Don't put a rhinestone collar on a workin' sheep dog.

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  • ljgbjgljgbjg Posts: 374
    Sorry Shifty - I have to disagree with you on the chrome wires. All the 60's E types had them, and a friend of mine had a TR-3 with them too. Maybe 50's with painted wires. When I was at SU in college in 66-70 all the frat boys were dirving Healy 3000 Mk IVs with chrome wires, Jags, and some pedestrian TR3s - all chrome.
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