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What is this thing worth?

1484951535456

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    i was thinking it might have originally been painted rather than chromed. Might be worth something but I wouldn't plan on retiring from the proceeds. :P

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  • Paul3557Paul3557 Posts: 2
    That small amount of exposure won't do any appreciable harm. Its not like they are being dunked in the ocean................
  • lemkolemko Posts: 15,116
    My Grandmom's friend has a black 1989 or 1990 Cadillac Sedan DeVille with a black "roadster top." The car is filthy, but only has 80K miles in it which is low for its age. She wants $5,000 for it, but the automotive accountant in my head says $2,500 is more than generous. So far, the lady has received no offers which isn't surprising. I'd say she'd do a lot better if she at least had me clean and detail the car for her.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I bet you're right
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    edited June 2012
    I think if it cleans up to the level of a decent driver then his estimate of $2500 is spot on. For $5000 the car would have to be a stunning automobile of show quality---and since it doesn't sound like that, then yeah, IMO, she is not realistic.

    It's just a nice old used car. It's not a classic and isn't ever going to be one. Let's face it.

    By all means he should clean it up. As it sits, if it's truly as filthy as stated, she'd be lucky to get $1000 for it.

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  • fintailfintail Posts: 33,496
    A couple hundred dollars spent on a fantastic detail can add many times that in value, for sale or trade in.

    Your price is fair, and would probably be the only offer. Just not a car many want today, but I can see your eyes dancing at the thought of a new hooptie :shades:
  • Am restoring a 64 T-Bird Landau with about every option available. The only part not stock is that I put in a 5 Liter HO (@300 hp) and an 800Hp capable transmission. Back in those days, Ford didn't put VIN numbers on the engines, so if someone wanted to switch it back to the 390 and Cruiseomatic, they could. It didn't have the original engine in it anyway when I bought it. I'll have about 15 16k into it when done. Wife will never let me sell it, but if I did, would it bring significantly more by reverting it back to the 390? The main reason I changed was because it dropped over 800 pounds, and with the HO I can buy parts anywhere instead of having to wait like a week or more just for a fan belt. With the Holly 4bbl, and performance kit, it fairly screams.
    (last week I blew the doors off a Charger RT Heh)
    Any clues on value now verses with the 390?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    No I don't think the value change would be "significant" if you reverted back to the original engine, and here's why I think that:

    1. these are not high dollar cars even perfectly restored to like new condition---maybe $25,000 would buy you a fabulous '64 hardtop Bird.

    2. while an original car would be worth more than yours, I don't think the difference in value would justify the expense of reverting back. Your car, if it has a decent body and interior, is worth what you have in it, so really by spending another $10K to find, rebuild and install an original engine, what have you gained? Nada.

    3. car collectors are far more tolerant of "upgrades" than they were years ago---people like to drive and enjoy their "classics", so unless you've chopped up an extremely rare and valuable car, you haven't done much harm to the market value---some, but not much.

    I think you should look at what you have now as a "resto-rod" or "pro touring" or whatever they're calling mildly modified old cars these days.

    It's possible, if you did a very nice job and if you have desirable upgrades on a "classic" that really improve fuel mileage, performance and handling, that you might even match or exceed the value of an original. It depends on how far you go with the mods and how tasteful and useful they are.

    I mean, things like modern fuel-injection, efficient AC, good fuel economy, radial tires, etc---these make an old car much more fun to drive.

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  • fintailfintail Posts: 33,496
    I think you might have improved the value. It's not a particularly rare or historic car, and you have made it much better to drive - probably more useful power and probably better mileage too, and by losing that weight, it probably handles better and eats up front suspension components slower than those things are known to do. I'd keep it the way you built it, maybe hold on to the original powertrain in case a new owner wants it back.

    I wonder what it would take to add FI to that engine. My first car had a 390/4bbl, and that thing made me hate carbs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Aftermarket FI is a bit tricky but do-able and there are kits on the market for it.

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  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,141
    Going back... oh, about 20+ years... i remember them (I think Holley) offering a 4-bb EFI carb. So basically they just made a circuit board and suspended a mister of sorts over each barrel. Is that still around? I would imagine it to be improved by now. I think back then the cost was $1500.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    edited January 2013
    Now they use setups LIKE THIS but I think Holley still makes what you're talking about.

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  • michaellnomichaellno Posts: 4,300
    Old MB for sale in Pacific NW ... what's it worth?

    Two door taxi?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    It's an odd duck to be sure. I can tell you one thing---it's never going to live in California.

    Given the stripper interior and 4 cylinder motor and parts inconvenience, if not hassle, I'd have to guess that around $3500 is all the money here.

    If it were a 6 cylinder with MB Tex and automatic, and a U.S. model, it'd be worth more.

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  • fintailfintail Posts: 33,496
    edited February 2013
    I agree with shifty - a few grand. It's an odd Euro (wrongly badged), not very fast or sporty, kind of pretty but needs a lot of detail work (cleaning, wheels, who knows what else, those for sale signs are disturbing). A very late (83-85) 300CD Turbodiesel coupe will bring the biggest money out of that series.
  • canewhitecanewhite Posts: 4
    In fact car advertisements have about as much in common with reality as James Bond's life has with my life - S.F.A. You will never see people commuting to work in a car advert
  • Hi,
    I have an opportunity to buy 1974 Plymouth Grand Fury 2 doors in medium condition (little rust, 2 cracks in a dashboard, teared seat, old faded 2nd paint coat but strait solid body, 400 big block sound and run very smooth) but I have no idea how much is fair price for Grand Fury coupe, because I cant find anything to compare. Looks like 2 door Grand Fury is very rare car or I don't know how or where to search. Can anyone help me please?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Sounds like something in the $2000 to $3000 range at best. While some cars might be rare, that alone does not boost value, since someone also has to "care that it's rare". The rarity was due to poor sales all across the "C" body line in 1974. In this case, 1974 was long past the Golden Age for Mopar. Still, not a bad "starter car" for getting into the hobby.

    If you can pick it up cheap and restoration costs are not too excessive, you can come out all right on this car, but I would set a maximum budget of around $10,000, because after that point, you may no longer break even on it.

    What are they asking for it?

    From your description, I would grade the car on the well-known Collector Car Condition Category as a Number 4 car (on a scale of 1 to 6, 1 being a show car, and 6 being a parts car)

    This "grade" may help you if you find any price guides online that cover this car.

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  • I don't know of any US auto after about 71 that has a great deal of interest. Go to Mecum.com and see what the values there are. I see their auctions on Velocity Chanel about every week, and cannot remember any mid 70's car on the Block. 4WD Drive Jimmys and some trucks yes, but no cars.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Yes, 1971 seems to be the general "drop-off" point, due to the fact that most cars started to suffer from horsepower reductions and complicated electro-mechanical pollution controls---in other words, drivability issues and a decided lack of "punch" to the gas pedal. You'll start to see "big blocks" with under 200 HP. Also the styling got more cluttered and bloated in American cars of that era.

    However, a post 1971 car can be a nice "entry-level" car for someone starting out in the old car hobby. The trick is to buy as nice an example as you can, because most post '71 cars are not that valuable as to justify the cost of restoration.

    So what I'm saying is that it makes much more sense to buy a very clean 1974 "survivor" for $6000 than a somewhat needy one for $2000.

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