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Mitsubishi Eclipse - 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • akaaka Posts: 2
    I am considering buying a used 2000 Eclipse GS 5spd with 37K miles on it for $9.3K. That is roughly the value of a Celica, same year and miles, which I would have preferred to buy if only I could find one.


    I have heard varied experiences about the reliability of the Eclipse, and also the money is a bit too much for me, so I am wavering. I have two questions:


    1. Is this a buy that is worth it. I am spending pretty much all the money I have on this car, my budged was actually about 8K. I need the car for 500 mile trips every fortnight for the next 2 years.


    2. When I check the car, or get it checked by a mechanic, are there some specific things that I would do well to check?


    Thanks in advance,
    AK
  • calveslcalvesl Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Eclipse RS. It only has 37,741 miles on it. About a month ago, when it was extremely hot outside (I live in Alabama), and I would start my car, the air conditioning, radio, and clock would not work. When I took it into the dealer, they knew exactly what was wrong with it the minute I said the air wouldn't work sometimes when I started it. They gave me a handout that explained a problem with the ignition switch that appears in hot or humid weather. Apparently, Mitsubishi is aware that this is a problem that occurs in 2002-2004 Eclipses and some other Mitsubishi models. However, they recommend that the dealers only repair it when a customer complains. They informed me that it was not covered by warranty, but fortunately I purchased the extended warranty and it did cover it, so they replaced my ignition switch. If I had not purchased the extended warranty, they would have charged me $282. I ended up taking it in four times to have this problem solved, because each time I got it to the dealership, they would say they ordered the wrong part, or needed another one. One time I asked what I would do it if didn't start. His advice was to try until it did. This past Monday, when I tried to go to work, it wouldn't even crank. The air, clock, and radio worked, but there wasn't even a sound when I turned the key. We tried to start it several times that day, but it would never start. However, the next day, when it wasn't nearly as humid, it did start. The dealership looked at it and refuses to believe that there is anything wrong with it. I can't believe I am having this much trouble with a car that only has 37K on it. I will never buy another Mitsubishi again.
  • ah about 8.0 seconds
  • kjnormankjnorman Posts: 243
    I would contact Mitsubishi corporate if I was you and explain your situation with them. They should be able to get this resolved for you.

    By the way it sounds like you have a very poor service department that you go to.

    My 2001 GT had a defective passenger side airbag replaced under warranty about 2 years ago. A sensor in the seat had failed and they replaced the whole back of the seat. Then a few months back, my airbag warning light came on again. This time they told me that the same sensor in the both the driver and passenger seat had failed and that both would need replacing - a potential cost of about $800 as the car is now out of warranty with 70k odd miles on it.

    I thought it odd that both would fail simultaneously especially when one had failed before. I called Mitsubishi corporate and explained the sitsuation with them, that the car had been serviced by the same dealer thought out its history, and that I though that they had a potentially life threatening defect in the safety systems of the car. They looked up in their database, was able to verify the history of my car, the previous warranty replacement, and discussed it with the local regional sales manager.

    The next day, they authorised my out of warranty replacement of both side airbags at no cost to me.

    So call corporate and state your case!
  • ok I need some help. I saw this 2000 Eclipse GS and it has about 49000 miles on it going for $9,777. It is equipped with a FWD, Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Power Door Locks W/Keyless Entry, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Aluminum/Alloy Wheels, Bucket Seats, Velour/Cloth Seats, Power Windows, Tinted Glass, Power Moonroof, Power Mirrors, Alarm System, Fog Lights, Power Door Locks, Remote Trunk Release, Tilt Steering Wheel, Leather Steering Wheel, Center Console, Intermittent Wipers, Rear Window Defroster, Rear Window Wiper, Tachometer... Good buy or no?
  • I somehow recently became a proud, yet perplexed owner of a very flashy, corner huggin sporty, black 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. It straddles the fence in stock goodies as well as after market gizmos. The bigger 4cyl, but not the turbo, A 5spd transmission, PWR door locks/wndws/sun roof, but has finger squisher seats. Standard Air bags etc., privacy glass, rear spoiler, AWESOME custom wheels, alarm system, back massaging sub is included within the premo after market sound (very loud) system, Exterior is glossy and free of bumps blemishes and bruises, the gray cloth interior is in excellent shape! Maintained well and runs and drives EXCELLENTLY with a measly 115,000 on it. So, Pretty nice car, right? Well, my eight year old,who weighs less than each of my three Rottweiler children, happen to be feeling a tad cramped. My question.... ANYONE WANT IT?! I need an SUV NOW!! Looking to sell or trade this and buy or get an SUV. Before my daughters next growth spurt!!!!!
  • What exactly, is "crankwalk"? Are ALL 95+ motors destined for it? I am hearing many conflicting "facts", from both avid supporters, and staunch opposers, regarding my 95 Mitsubishi Eclipse. My car runs and drives quiet, straight, and smooth with 115,000 miles under the hood. Thankfully, I've been on time with the L.O.F.s, as well as the tune-ups and recommended maintenances. The belts gave me a little worry right around 85/95,000 miles, and when I asked about belt maintenance, I was told of the imminent freezing, leaking, blowing, cracking, or knocking that is bound to happen. These are the things I was told my car most definately was being ailed by. They didnt know how it happened, how it was caused, or what parts were actually even affected by these nasty sounding words. I feel that I could have given just as good, if not a better, palm reading, fortune telling, if it aint broke-fix it till it is, plainly UNKNOWLEDGEABLE diagnosis of my cars illness. And, of course, my engine would never be the same without at least 400$-500$ of blinker fluid and wheel bearings.
    SO, IF ANYONE CAN GIVE ME ANY REAL ADVICE or any knowledgable opinions that dont start in a "Why dont you just let me handle that, little lady" type of tone, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!!!
    And I Ddo apologize for my own snappy attitude. I blame it on the weakness of my camels back. Never did take many straws to break it!!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Only turbo engines have the potential of encountering the crankwalk. So you don't need to worry about it at all.
  • A relief, thank you. But if you don't mind, I still would like to know what crankwalk is and how it affects an engine. Ya never know when a peice of information may come in handy!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    In very simple terms, the crankshaft of the turbo motor can wobble from its set position, which wrecks havoc on the internals of the engine. The crankshaft is what drives the pistons and connecting rods. If it moves out of position, it's going to take everything else with it and what you end up with is an engine in need of a full rebuild. Not a pretty site for sure, but its not something that happens to every turbo Eclipse. Ones that have been modded have a higher chance of it occuring.
  • acm5acm5 Posts: 2
    Crankwalk is the result of the crankshaft thrust bearings wearing out, the crankshaft can then slide a few thou longitudinally and, on 2Gs, this causes the Crankshaft Position Sensor to get damaged and the engine stops running. The crankshaft also suffers damage once the thrust bearings wear out, just as it does when any crank bearing wears; usually the wear damages teh crank before the sensor.

    1Gs also suffer crankwalk, however they don't have a crank sensor, so they can tolerate considerably more wear.

    I have three 125,000+ 2Gs with no crankwalk, it is by no means epidemic.
  • xtrmxtrm Posts: 1
    I am in the market for a new clutch due to the stock one taking a crap on me in the middle of a race... I need your help on what to purchase. If you have any fiirst hand info (i.e.- own a certain one or use it to race or what have you) then please let me know what would be good.

    THE ONES I AM LOOKING AT NOW:
    Exedy stage 2 thick cerametalic
    Centerforce 903901
    Spec Clutch stage 2 sm582
    ACT stage 2

    So far I really like the Exedy on paper but want to know how it drives... my car is an everyday driver and not pumped up yet.

    thanks ahead of time.
  • frus95frus95 Posts: 1
    I own a '95 Eclipse non-turbo five speed with 130,000 miles. It will run fine when first started and until it warms up. Then it goes crazy. It shutters it all gears while accelerating and when clutching will sometimes go dead. It idles up and down on its on. We have sat and watched idle up and down until it finally shuts down. It will start right back up but again it starts idling up and down. Let it cool and everything once again seems fine. While it is idling up and down it seems to be firing only on one cylinder. It spews white smoke from seemingly everywhere. We have replaced: oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake sensor, idle air valve, fuel filter, plugs, plug wires and the ECM. Nothing has changed. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
  • i have 96'eclipse RS. Recently had problems with it cutting off as i'm slowing down. Car runs fine while i'm driving but has i slow down for turns or at a stop light and get down in the rpms the gauge will just drop and it cuts off often unless i give it gas. It will idle just fine while not in motion, only seems to act up when i'm stopping and it doesn't always do it. I had one day that it did it everytime i got in the car the next day it worked fine and it is going back and forth. Any suggestions?? Thanks
  • oh yeah it has 101,000 miles on it. Is that a fuel filter or pump problem? Or something else altogether?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Try cleaning the throttle body. Mitsubishis are very susceptible to engine stalling after years of grunge has plugged up the 2 air bypass holes that allow the engine to idle when the throttle plate is closed. You need to take off the flexible black plastic tube that runs from the air filter to the throttle body. Buy a can of throttle body cleaner (for fuel injected cars, not carbureators) and spray it in the throttle body. Manually open the throttle plate by pulling on the throttle cable and spray all around the plate. Wipe out as much of the gunk as you can with a cloth towel, using something long to push the towel deep. You will find that the towel turns pitch black very quick. When you restart the car, it will run rough for about a minute but once the cleaner is burned off, it will run normal again. This should greatly improve your idle and will probably fix your stalling problem. If it doesn't, another possible problem is a clogged up or malfunctioning idle control motor. This is another common failure on high mileage Mitsus, but a much more expensive fix.
  • Thanks for the info. I'll have to try that out this weekend. I know a little about cars but am no genius by any stretch. how easy is it to getto the throttle body and do that cleaning you mentioned without me screwing up my car?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It's actually quite easy. The total process should take no more then 30 minutes and you really should only have to lossen one clamp with a screwdriver. Look for the long elbow shaped hard black plastic tube that runs from the air filter box to the engine. Where this tube ends on the engine is the throttle body. Loosen the clamp that holds the tube to the throttle body and pull the tube free. It will probably look pitch black in there from a lot of built up carbon. Take the can of throttle body cleaner and spray it in the opening. Soak it real good. You will see a plate that is closed a few inches inside the throttle body. This is the throttle plate. Open the plate by pulling on the throttle cable and spray around the opening. Clean all grunge out with a good quality white towel. You don't want to use anything that will leave fuzz in there to get into the engine (Walmart sells a 3 pack of cloth baby diapers in automotive that would be perfect for this task). You may have to use a screwdriver or something similar to push the towel in deeper since the opening is too small to get your hands in. Depending on how deep the throttle plate is inside the opening, you might can see 2 small pin holes, 1 above the throttle plate and one below. Make sure you clean around these holes well, as this is how the car idles. When you are done, the inside should be the color of smooth metal. Just reattach the air intake tube and your done! Using poor quality gas will cause the throttle body to carbon up faster so try to stick with namebrand gas stations. It's a very minor process and the chance of you messing things up is very slim. And remember, the car will run real rough for about a minute after you start the car. It will smooth itself out so don't freak out. You can give it a little gas to rev it up and burn out the cleaner faster.

    This process should help as I used to have a 93 Diamante with a stalling problem just like yours. It didn't always do it and would only stall when slowing down for a stopsign or light. Cleaning the throttle body completely fixed the problem. So, good luck, and let me know what the outcome is.
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