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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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  • Can you tell me how to reset the indicator manually?
    I just had my first oil change done tonight in my '06 Honda Civic. The Mr. Tire I took the car to because of time could not figure out how to reset the indicator. Please reply here or to spdski@hotmail.com. Thanks.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I thought it may have been used because you mentioned damage to the alloy rim/s due to a tire change prior to sale. So, this begs yet another question...why were the tires changed if this was a "new" car? A film on the glass?More evidence of some type of environmental damage? I am not entirely sure the glass is protected by some type of film for shipping and even if it were it shouldn't be necessary to scrape it off with a razor blade. I have been seeing postings of easily scratched/chipped glass on these as well. Something seems fishy with your purchase. There seems to be too many issues with a "new" car. What is the latest with your inquiries to Honda?
  • tomsr1tomsr1 Posts: 130
    I would do a vin# search in Louisiana because I still think
    the car was flooded and Honda won't know and dealers won't
    tell the truth.I once bought a new (unregistered) Mazda
    and was told it was a demo.I had it a couple of weeks and one day I noticed a panel had a different contour so I got
    a magnet and checked it.It had Bondo on it.It had been
    in an accident.I took it back to the dealer and they denied
    knowing anything.I wanted a new car but they were not going to budge till I threatened to sue. Eventually I got the new car but it left a bad taste about that dealer.
  • Ok so I heard from my gf of all people that you need to break in a new engine. i have less the 100 miles on my car and I was wondering if this is true and how to do it?
  • Yes she is right, although the break in period on new vehicles today is not nearly as strict as they were back in the 20th century. The best way to break in your new engine is to just drive moderately for the first 1000-1500 miles. Try to vary the speed from residential speeds to highway speeds and avoid jackrabbit starts. Also remember there is a small break in period on new brake pads too. Brake moderately as well and avoid panic stops for the first 200-300 miles. This will ensure the brake pads are seated properly and ensure proper wear for the life of the pads. Hope this helps, enjoy the new car.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The recommended break-in steps are outlined in the owner's manual.
  • Just passing along...The check engine light came on at 138k so I took it to Autozone and with malfunction code in hand went to the local Honda dealership to get some parts.. Turns out the 96/97 Civic has a 150K/14 year emission warranty...

    So for all those Civic owners...don't forget to ask....
  • OK, a quick rundown of what has happened to me with my 03 Civic coupe can be found on the honda civic climate control system board. I got the car back from the shop after its head gasket, water pump, and timing belt replacement. The car ran great out of the shop, but I smelled oil burning coming from underneath the hood. I checked it out, and it was coming from the block somewhere, and not out the tail pipe. I called the shop back and he commented back saying he cleaned really good under there (which he truly did), so it was probably just burn off from that and to give it a couple of days of driving. Still curious I looked at my receipt for the repairs he did this morning (I got the car back Friday and probably have driven it 150 miles). He charged me for FIVE quarts of oil. So I popped the hood again and checked the level and it is well above the max line. I can't really notice any oil burning smell anymore after this weekend of driving. I am going to drive it to the shop tomorrow to show him what he did and have the excess drained out in case there was any damage done.

    My question is:

    Do I have to worry about any permanent damage done by this incident? I have only driven it about 150 miles like I said with this problem and am having it corrected tomorrow. Engine still sounds quiet and the oil burning has gone away, and it has never burned out the tail pipe. I have researched it a little on the internet saying oil whip could occur causing damage due to the lack of lubrication because the oil pump does not do a good job pumping air and oil can leak out due to the excess pressure which is probably what I was experiencing. Any help or advice is much appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    usually for oil "cavitation" or excess crankcase pressure you need a LOT of extra oil in there, not just one quart extra.

    So I'd say no harm done. It would take like ten quarts to create a menace like you read about.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have a 2003 Civic LX 85,000 miles. recently a yellow lamp came on in the cluster with the tachometer in it. My mechanic who I very much trust said he had to reset the throttle positioning sensor. the light stayed out about 400 miles but is now back on again. Do I have a bad problem or just a pain in the rear one?. I will go back to my mechanic but what can i expect?. This is the first problem I have had other than maint. items since I got the vehicle?
  • Thanks for the response..took it to the shop today and he drained out the excess oil and said basically the same thing you said. Car is finally running like it should now...and the heat is HOT!
  • werpswerps Posts: 2
    Anyone know if this is really needed? Local dealer said if belt fails will cause serious damamge to the engine. About $600 to replace. I'd like to know if these things ever break. I have a '97 Civic w/ 92K. Thanks.
  • kwk1kwk1 Posts: 39
    The belt can and will break, causing damage to the engine like stated.
    Usage can wear the belt, also age is a determining factor.
    With that many miles, and considering it's a '97, I'd have it replaced.
    You should get a price for the belt, and check around to have an independant garage change it.
    It's not that difficult and it would save you possibly a couple hundred dollars.

    PS: The '06 and newer Civics have a timing chain, thus they can stretch over time, but won't break.
  • werpswerps Posts: 2
    I'll do that--thanks for your help.
  • I am trying to help my 93 yr old mother-in-law out with a problem she is having on resetting her radio.
    Her battery went down the other day and she needed a jump and all is fine except the radio does not work because a code needs to be reset. I had done this for her a few years back but can not remember how to do it. She lives about 100m miles away so driving over is not a viable option.
    Does anyone have the instructions how to do it?
    She knows the code but not the procedure.
    Thanks in advance for your help!
    Bob
  • jgradyjgrady Posts: 2
    my name is jeff,
    my wife has the same problem,did you ever find the answer,
    i would love to know,thanks
  • Hmmm. It says in my manual that it will be reset by mechanic who changes your oil. That little wrench light is about to drive me nuts. Would someone please please please tell me how to shut that darned thing off? Maybe they have since changed the manual because of complaints, but I assure you it's NOT in mine. I had one of the first 2006 Civics produced, so maybe that's the reason. Would someone please take the time to copy what's in their manual and let me know. Thank you in advance.
  • I don't know if it is the same procedure to reset the light in all models; I don't have an 06 but you can try this at least to get you started until someone else comes up with an answer that has an 06.

    This is the procedure for an 03 model.

    1) Hold down the trip reset button with everything off.
    2) While holding down the trip reset button put the key in and turn the ignition to "on" (the position where you hear the fuel pump, gauges come on etc.) but do not start the car.
    3) Continue to hold down the trip reset button until the light goes off (usually 10-15 seconds).

    Hopefully this will work for your model year. Good luck!
  • Hmm... you guys must have missed it in the manual... here is the instruction:

    1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position
    2. Press the SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life is displayed
    3. Press the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance item code(s) will blink.
    4. Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100".

    I have used these instructions before on my 06' civic baby. So, it should work. Good luck!
  • I have been trying to look for it in the manual, couldn't find it. I am assuming 20000 miles will be the magic number?? Does anyone have it for that long and drive that much that needs the transmission fluid service yet? Thanks for all your input.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    How did you come up with 20,000 miles? I have never heard of any modern car that needs automatic transmission fluid changes every 20000 miles.

    The schedule definitely is in the manual.
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Definitely read what the manual says about the tranny fluid drain & refill time period. 20k miles seems way to short of a time interval for a fluid swap. 60k or even 75k seems more like it, but I also have not read that part of my owners manual. With only 6239 on the odo now, I've got a looonnnnnggggg time to have to think about this issue.

    The Sandman :)
  • imm1962imm1962 Posts: 11
    My wife's Civic LX 4-door 2002 needs new brake pads. I am going to replace them but I need a suggestion about the pads. Which are the best pads in $40-50 range? Any brand that is better then others? Any specific place to buy (online or store)?
  • I would actually recommend going to the Honda dealer and buying the OEM pads. They cost about $60 for a set, but they will probably last the longest out of anything you could buy at the auto parts store. I got 64k out of my first set of pads on my civic.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Pads of better quality than OEM probably exist, but since he is shopping in such a narrow price range, I'm not sure he will find them.
    Everything OEM is not automatically the top quality available. The car manufacturers have costs they have to stay within also.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,904
    I am sure there are many other places, but I liked the illustrated parts break down format on this site.

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Civic&catcgry2=2004&catcgry3=4DR+DXVP+VALUE+PKG&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FR- - ONT+BRAKE

    I do not have the shop technical manual in front of me, but you should measure the rotors, to see if they meet the specification for the project life of the new pads and (old) rotors given your actual use. Upshot is you might not get away as cheap (at 60 dollars) as you had planned. But this is no place to scrimp.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    thanks for posting that, very helpful!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • mck76mck76 Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Civic EX I got it in 09/06 since the purchase I have been very satisfied with the car no real issues, except one. When ever I would go over a bump in the road there was a knocking noise on the passanger side behind the glove box. I took it to the dealer and they thought I was crazy the car only has about 4500 miles. Anyway, I finally got one of the mechanics to go on a ride along with me to show him the noise. Upon further review it turns out that the some of the 06 civics have faulty engine mounts that need to be repaired. The dealer told me that there is a TSB about this issue but I have not been able to find it. Hope that this helps others with the same issues.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Does anyone know where the reset button is located?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • It is illustrated in your owners manual on this procedure for future reference

    Anyhow this is what you do...

    With the key off hold down the trip reset button on the gauge cluster.

    While holding down the trip reset button turn the key to the ii. position (on), but do not start.

    The light should go off in about 10 seconds. Then you can let go of the trip reset button and you're all set for another 10000 miles.
This discussion has been closed.