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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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Comments

  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    It is common for a service department at a particular dealer to have a schedule that differs from the manufacturer. Mine does. Of course, it is my option to follow one or the other. At 20,000 miles I chose to spend $129.00 for service and the other things that my dealer chooses. At 30,000 miles, I chose to do the things listed in the Honda manual. My dealer had a list of things that went well beyond this. I am sure the better service plan is the dealer's, but I am going to choose between the two. I would not be "put off" by your dealer's recommendations. They are a business and it is in their interest to make money. That is not a bad thing. You just make the judgment as to what you want to follow.
  • Anyone with the 06 Civic use synthetic oil? We are considering using it, as it is supposed to extend engine life and we are planning on keeping our Civic until it dies. Only thing is with the Maintenance Minder, which I think tells you to change the oil every 5000 miles or so - but synthetic needs changing less often. How do we get around that? Would we void our warranty?

    Anyone else using synthetic oil already?
  • jopadmanjopadman Posts: 27
    Has anyone with a 2006 civic waxed their car yet? I'm getting conflicting reports that say on one hand we have to wait 2 months and others that say it's ok to do it right away.
  • jopadmanjopadman Posts: 27
    wondering what everyone is using when they change their oil. I'm going to go synthetic since everyone says it gives better gas mileage and extends engine life. What is a good synthetic oil? How much does it cost if its done at the dealership? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
  • This is a good link.

    http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
    http://www.filtermag.com/

    I will use mobil1 5-20 true synthetic (not blend):$6, m1-110 (for extension PURPOSES):$11, filtermag: $30 (magnet). I will change oil and oil filter every 8000 miles or 8 months to be safe.

    QUESTION:

    Is it possible to change tire size like 215/65/15, 205/65/15 or 215/60/16 for honda civic lx 2006?
  • hangaralf1hangaralf1 Posts: 107
    coolant doesn't go in straight unless its premixed. there should be about a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. it is best to use distilled water since tap water has too many minerals in it that might over time clog pipes (don't use drano). tap water will do in an emergency.

    i am using Royal Purple "synthetic" and i change it at 5000 miles - i know that's expensive, but two things: its not just oil floating around inside the engine after 5k, and, more importantly, its much easier to keep track of. if i was using regular oil, my oil change would be at 3k. oil is alot cheaper than an engine. i don't skimp on oil.

    truehonest - are u running 15 or 16's - check tire websites for changing tires or wheels. although why you would want to run 15's on an 06 lx - came with 16's.

    jopadman - i have 06 lx - bought in december - waxed it twice already, but that was about 4 mos later. if you don't have to, i wouldn't.(unless you need to get away from the significant other).

    everyone... get a service manual - the one the techs use so that you can see exactly what they see, and they can't sell you crap that doesn't need to happen. yeah, its expensive, but it'll save $$$$$ in the long run.
  • Has anyone experienced the following problem with 2006 Civic? When it rains, numerous small circular rust colored stains develop on all flat surfaces (i.e. on top of trunk and roof). I have to wash the stained areas immediately after rain or extremely difficult to remove after a day or two. I've owned three other civics and many other cars, but never experienced this problem before. Otherwise, I like the car.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Just a guess based on some comments in one of the Subaru boards that talks aboout waxing and washing....

    Many cars are shipped by rail and they get a light coating of iron oxide on them from the rails. Some of the Subie guys did some fairly major detailing work to remove this. I think it invloved using a clay bar. I'm not 100% sure.

    Most people don't see or feel this oxide from the shipping and never even realize its there. Washing doesn't remove it.

    --jay
  • That's what I was going to suggest. Thanks to the train trip your car took on its way to your dealership, you have iron dust sitting in the top layer of your paint. When it rains, the water mixes with it, and helps it rust, causing the rust-colored spots. You're good to have noticed it, and are right to want to address it asap.

    You'll want to get yourself a clay bar or two (Maguires is good), and go over the entire car, to clean out the paint. Here's a pretty good tutorial on what clay bars are, how they work, and what to do with them.

    Your paint will thank you for it!
  • I've never had the cv boots replaced. I am the only owner of this car. The dealership says that all four need to be replaced, which would run around $500. I have heard that usually the inner cv boots practically never need to be replaced. What about the axls?

    Advice?
  • i use to have 4 tire and it running fine.
    now i just purchace 4 use tire, put it in the car and the steering wheel turn to the left a little bit when i drive. do i need to do wheel alignment. where is the good place to go to?
  • Today I noticed that the dash lights and the side headlamps are staying on even when the car is off and the keys are out of the ignition. To remedy the problem temporarily, I have removed the negative battery cable so the battery will not drain. I'm thinking it's a faulty switch, right? If not, please clue me in to what maybe the problem and if so how hard would it be to replace the switch on my own. Any information would be helpful.
  • I have a 2006 Civic which I purchased in 8/06. I have gone through a brushless car wash twice with wax added. Absolutely no problems.
  • Is it overkill to change the oil in my 2006 Honda Civic every 3000 miles. I know Honda recommends 5000 miles, but my last Honda lasted 240,000 miles by me changing the oil every 3000 miles ( 1993 Honda Civic ).
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    I may buy a 2007 Civic LX or EX sedan and drive it for 2 or 3 years at 45,000 miles a year of which over 90% of driving will be highway driving.

    If I keep it for the entire 3 years, I would have about 135,000 miles on it when I sell it.

    How many service intervals should come up and would it also need any very expensive maintenance service like a timing belt replacement?
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    I just noticed on Friday something rolling around behind the glove box. This only happens on hard turns or over some speed bumps. I've checked everything inside the car & found nothing. Does anyone else here have a similar problem?

    The Sandman :confuse:
  • I have 35 K miles on the Dunlop tires that came with my 04 Civic DX and they are worn enough that I will need to replace them before winter. I am surprised because I usually get 50-55K miles on original equipment tires including Dunlops on my 92 Civic. I check inflation frequently and have moderate driving habits. How are others doing on mileage? I would welcome suggestions on good replacements which emphasize durability and gas mileage.
  • aggie76aggie76 Posts: 265
    Hello all,

    Just bought a '98 EX auto coupe with under 120k on it in great condition for 16 yr old son. Did major maintenance of timing belt, water pump, plugs and belts - everything else is great per trusted mechanic. Has brand new battery, new exhaust system up to manifold & almost new tires already.

    One issue is key seems to struggle with turning in ignition and in door locks, really have to baby it to get it just pulled out a bit and then turn to unlock, start or remove. Any suggestions on resolving this troublesome issue?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,480
    First off, off the top of my head, I remember the OEM Dunlops for the 2004 Civic (that I have anyway) are rated 29th of 30 tires in that category !!!

    One thing that I did slightly different from the get go was to put in the "high speed PSI" as per owners manual (again in my case- 35 psi) I think I will see (BARELY) 55-60k. As a comparison, I will see 115-125k on a Goodyear LS-H 195 65 15 H tire on a VW Jetta TDI, which is almost universally vilified as not the best OEM tire on that OEM and model. On a 44 psi max tire wall pressure I have run 38 psi fronts/36 psi rears.

    While I think the Michelin Hydroedge and Goodyear Triple Treads and GY Comfort Treads are probably real good. I will mount up the Toyo Spectrums. Everything I have read and also my experiences with another Toyo tire has the preliminary indications that these will be good on durability and fuel mileage.
  • Been looking through the forums and haven't seen anyone yet that's had my particular trouble, so I'll give this a shot...

    I'm enjoying my 2006 Civic immensely, and I recently gave it it's first oil change. Unfortunately, the oil life computer doesn't seem to recognize that I've actually changed the oil and filter. When I'm driving the little orange wrench light stays on, and when I start the odometer flashes negative mileage at me (presumably how far I've gone since it thinks I should have changed the oil) until I change the odometer mode.

    The filter and oil change HAVE been done, at least 500 miles ago, and the car is running fine. It has plenty of oil and no leakages. Is there some trick to getting the oil computer to *realize* the oil has been changed? Any trick or gimmick I can use to shut off the warning?

    It's an annoyance more than anything, but I'm hoping it's not pestering me just so I take it to a dealer and have them shut it off! Thanks for any input.
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