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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance



  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,490
    This is covered in your owner's manual. It should be in the index. It is really a matter of the correct procedure to pressing the correct electronic buttons in the right sequence.

    If you are technically inclined, the shop manual.
  • vquinnvquinn Posts: 3
    So, does anyone know anything about cv boots? Please?
  • I went in to get an oil change on my '99 honda civic LX. I was told I should get a bunch of "preventive maintenance" performed. This included front and back struts (although they aren't leaking, whatever that means), flush with new antifreeze, lubrication and brake adjustment, new battery installation (although the battery has given me no problems), and spark plug replacement. The total given to me for these repairs was $1070. I wasn't sure if i'm being screwed or not so i told them I'd get back to them. Any advice on whether I really need all this preventive maintenance?
  • Hello,

    I need to change the oil on my new 2006 Civic soon and have a few questions. Did you find out how to reset your 2006 Civic oil life indicator? Was the oil change straight forward (excluding the oil life indicator)? Did you drive the car up on ramps or use jacks to get under it to remove the oil pan drain plug? What weight oil did you use? Where do you live, a hot or cold winter area? I live near San Francisco, CA, and have used 20-50 weight Castrol oil in all of the cars I've owned since the early 1980's. Got well over 180K miles on my previous 1981 Civic, with my only major engine repair being a valve job and no signs of engine wear when I retired the vehicle.

    Thanks for any assistance, it is very much appreciated.

  • I recently did my first oil change on my 06 EX Civic Coupe. Since you've done many other oil changes, you should find the 06 civic easy. I live in the midwest, where it's in the high 90's in the summer and mid teens in the winter. I went with Honda's recomendation of 5w-20 weight, and used semi-syth oil, and a Honda filter. Oil change is very straight-forward. I used jack stands to raise the front of the car. I did have to get a filter wrench (at NAPA) to get the original filter off. I was glad I bought a Honda filter...just took the new one up to NAPA and asked for wrench that fit it. The owner's manual explains in detail how to reset the oil life indicator. That's something that you'll have to do according to the book. It does not reset automatically (as some posters have indicated here). No trick to it, just follow the explaination in the manual.

    Hope this helps.
  • wco81wco81 Posts: 495
    Anyone use Armor-All or similar products on the dash and steering wheel? The surface is not glossy so feels a big rough. Probably good for grip on the steering wheel but still, I prefer the smoother finish.

    Do such products hurt the finish, make them fade or degrade or void the warranty?

    Does the shine produced cause glare for driving (dash area under the long sloping windshield is longer than most cars)?
  • I have an '01 Civic LX, 2dr (Red even). Anyway, the driver side door lock mechanism will not go up/down by using the remote. I took it to the dealer and they want a BUNCH of money to fix it. Where can I get some information on the proper way to remove the interior door panel to access the lock unit (for repair or replacement).

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    Personally I would never use Armor-All on the steering wheel--I think it would make the wheel too slippery. IMO you want the surface to feel a bit rough, for a better/safer grip.

    There are low-gloss versions of Armor-All and the like that don't shine up the dash as much.

    I can't see how using Armor-All on the dash could void the warranty--unless there is a warning about using silicone protectorants in the owner's manual.
  • wco81wco81 Posts: 495
    My Integra and an old Legend I drove have a smoother-feeling steering wheel. It shined but it was textured.

    I was thinking that the rougher surface was porous and more prone to retain dirt.

    So a layer of Armor all would seal the pores somewhat.

    I wondered whether Armor All would react with the material some way and cause it to deteriorate faster.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,628
    How about putting a smooth leather cover on the wheel? Smooth on your hands, good looking, and yet grippy.
  • wco81wco81 Posts: 495
    That might not be a bad idea.

    Only problem is, my town is bad for car accessory stores. Only basic parts chains like Kragen or Auto Zone. Or pay through the nose from the dealer.

    So I'd probably have to shop online.

    Need to get a good wax, some chamois. There was also a gloss protectant, called Der Shiny back in the day. It was suppose to give a glossy finish and used for aircraft.
  • heart2heart2 Posts: 38
    I have a '98 Civic with 70000 miles and now using car to the tune of close to 30000 per year. Well maintained but has not had a timing belt change. Local mechanics tell me 90K will be time. Do you go be miles or time? Reasonable to wait for the 90K or do it sooner?
  • kdogkdog Posts: 23
    I have a question on service intervals. My civic currently has 24000 miles and I've changed the oil every year/10,000 miles. I also changed the the air filter at 15,000 miles. This being the 3rd year and I want to know what kind of serivice my car will need. I don't push the car hard, just moderate driving.
    P.S. Should I still follow the manual on the 10,000 oil change intervals for moderate driving?
  • I'm no expert, but I just had my '97 Civic's timing belt changed exactly at 105,000 miles. Of course the belt could have gone before b/c I think it was supposed to be changed at 84 months, but it didn't.
  • personally, i would never use Armor All - period. I hate shiny, greasy dashes. It annoys me when you go to the used car lots and see shiny dashes. i just think that it really makes the car look cheap. plus, i heard that the stuff actually causes the plastic to crack.

    i like Meguiar's interior cleaner. It cleans the rich, textured dash (which car manufacturers go to great pains to achieve) without that greasy shiny crap.
  • it depends on the oil that you are using.
    Regular oil, in my experience, doesn't hold up for 10,000 miles. in past cars, (toyota corolla mainly, and a couple of vw's), you can really tell when the oil is no good any more. changing it made the engine purr. so, with regular oil, i would recommend between 3000 - 4000 miles for oil.

    you could probably get away with 10,000 mile intervals with synthetic oil - or so i have heard - i've never tried it.

    other factors that come into play are - and this is all speculation - how long can the oil filter handle it - will it be clogged and/or can the filter element stay intact that long
    with reference to the oil itselfafter so many miles, its not just oil floating around. moisture, acids from combustion and who knows what else could be in there.

    my philosopy is this - oil is your engines life blood. its not worth messing with it. Its alot less expensive to change the oil regularly than a new engine. I change oil between 3 - 4K with regular oil.

    i'm using synthetic now in my 06 civic and i change it at 5000 miles - mostly because it is easier for me to remember 5K intervals.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    If you drive mostly highway miles in an average environment, then follow the normal schedule.
    If not, follow the severe schedule. The mileage intervals are listed in the manual.
    It's that simple.
  • I was wondering what others are paying for the replacement, the Madison, WI dealer wants $105, while the estimated costs on Edmunds suggest $45, why the difference. I have a '04 Civic LX.
  • wco81wco81 Posts: 495
    I bought the Honda-branded cleaner. Comes in a metal can with a spray top.

    But I wonder if I'm suppose to use it on the textured dash and also the front of the stereo and such, which is not textured.

    Or the doors, the area around the window controls for instance.

    If it's just a cleaner, no big deal. But if it leaves some kind of polymer film, maybe not a good idea?
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    When the steering straight, both the horn switches do not blow the horn even when pressed, move the steering like 10 degrees in either direction, it works fine, already checked the connections at the switches for carbon etc, checked the fuse under the fuse box under the hood, is there any discs etc where the electrical connections are made in the steering column, I am just speculating as I dont have the exploded view of the Steering column, what could be the cause and suggested fixes, it may be the ground connection, where is the ground for the horn circuitry. Any suggestions or points will greatly be appreciated.
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