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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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  • jeff618jeff618 Posts: 29
    FYI - the only 8th gen civics you have to mess with refills and/or the dealer is with the 06-07 SEDAN (because they are proprietary to honda). The rest of the civics (06-10 Coupes and 08-10 Sedans) have more common/universal wiper arms and wiper sizes so you can get aftermarket replacement wiper blade assemblies that snap right on the arms - a heck of a lot simpler, and if you are in cold climates, the assemblies go through a ton of abuse so its not a bad idea to replace the whole assembly - we're only talking $10-$20 per wiper depending on brand and quality).

    Just make sure you look-up the make, model and year - and keep an eye on trim/body style - of your civic in the application guidebook or by Googling 'lookup wiper size'. Just pay attention and you'll be ok.

    I ended up going with 'Trico Tech Beam Blades' on my 07 Coupe. Got them online and they work AWESOME! I've also used Trico NeoForms in the past too - also great.

    Hope this all helps others...
  • If you have the AC or defrost mode, it's totally normal. Change your setting to vent air only, without the AC, and it should go off.
  • Aftermarket blades are not for me. I have even spent up to $40 on blades before but when the ice gets on you blades, the Honda ones have given me the best results. Honda refils are only $5 each. They are a bit harder to install, but the Honda blades also work better at higher speeds facing strong winds. They tend to stick better on the windshield. This is my 14th Honda, and tried differents blades over the years only to come back to the Honda ones. If you go aftermarket, at least keep your arms in case you want to switch back. Don't mean to contradict you one that, but I really don't agree with you.
  • canadaycanaday Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    FYI.... the 08 Civic Ex sedan uses proprietary blades/refills. Normally a simple wiper replacement should take two minutes at most. With these, I suggest you set aside an hour or so. Better yet, schedule an appointment with your dealer. What a rip-off. Honda has discovered the secret handshake method of increasing its dealers service revenue. Without spending an hour to figure out how they work and some research, you won't get them off. There is nothing wrong with the old fashioned easy to replace design. Sign me as unhappy civic owner.
  • canadaycanaday Posts: 3
    Uh.. I spoke too soon. These '08 blades are not proprietary. Just wayyy too cute.
  • sjetsjet Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    Noticed a number amount of dings along side of right rear panel of 2009 Honda civic-touch up paint from dealer has not work to cover them. Was told that entire panel must be replaced by an auto body shop. Is there another option to remove small dings or dents?
  • Not sure about dings but, dents can be taken out companies like Dent Wizzard or Dents Away. Used car or even dealers are usualy familiar with this. If the paint is not chipped, a good buffing machine can do wonders.

    Good luck...
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 366
    Last summer I picked up a 93 Del Sol Si w just 73,000 miles (my 3rd one - I'm kind of a sucker for this model). It was owned by a 75 yr old farmer who only drove it in the summer. It ran well, but as insurance I basically did the 90K service (timing belt, water pump, AT tranny fluid, plugs...).

    It is running fine, but the check engine light comes on after 5-15 miles about 75% of the time. If I turn off the engine & restart, it will stay off for a while, but basically follows the same pattern. I have noticed that my MPG are about 20% less than my previous Del Sols. Are there any common issues that I should consider before ponying up $100 to take it to the dealer for troubleshooting? Thanks!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    Could be a simple misfire--did you check cap, rotor, plug wires? Also check for loose gas cap, leaking vacuum lines to the evaporative control system.

    It resets because the misfire or fault clears and then resets the code after a certain number of incidents.

    Other than that, I'd suggest you read the codes and get a hint from that.
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    one other thing that wasn't mentioned. Instead of going to the dealer and paying them, just take the car over to autozone, they will read the trouble code that caused the CEL (check engine light) and then you can just look up what that code means. No need to pay the dealer all that money when it's free at autozone!

    and then bring that code back here so we can help you determine whats going on :)
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    Unfortunately I don't think autozone will read OBD-1 trouble codes.
  • drhlhdrhlh Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I replaced my old slipping transmission with a used transmission. I was told the transmission I purchased worked fine. I put it in the 1993 Accord, the transmission shifts find and runs great until I stop. It doesn't want to take off until I re start the engine Then it takes off and does fine until I stop again. I've noticed the engine wants to die when I come to a stop.
  • cmruffcmruff Posts: 15
    Help! I finally located a set of new wiper blade assemblies (rubber + holders) in a neighboring county. Even the local dealer would have had to order these blades, ludicrous for a Civic. So - read the manual and it says squeeze the thumb grips on the covers and pull forward to remove the cap and then the assembly. I squeezed them as hard as I could - then I had someone else try - can't get the cover caps off. How hard do I have to squeeze them? Should I use pliers??? I will go to the dealer if I have time; issue is I'm supposed to drive to rainy Oregon tomorrow and am at work today. I really didn't expect this to be such a nightmare (and at $60 and counting, a ridiculously expensive nightmare!)
    Any advice GRATEFULLY accepted!!!
  • noiro_1noiro_1 Posts: 1
    I discover there is a discrepancy between the advertised crankcase oil capacity spec on the official Honda website and the 2008 Honda Civic owner's manual. The advertised spec calls for 4.7 qt. and the owner's manual calls for 3.9 qt. Which one is correct?? I have been filling up my Civic with 3.9 qt. The oil dipstick level seems fine. Am I under fill by 0.8 qt?
  • Bought a low mileage '08 from a dealer and have changed the oil - 3.9 quarts of Mobile 1, 5-20W - just like the book says.

    How do I change the "Oil Life" to read 100%?

    Any and all replies appreciated...
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,578
    Directions should be in the manual and don't forget, the OLM has no idea what kind of oil that's being used, dino or synthetic, so keep track of how fast it gets down to 15%. Most synthetics are made to go 10k miles so factor this in to the change intervals. I use dino on my '06 and change it every 5k miles.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • Am trying to find an actual photo of a '97 civic front end, specifically ball joint area, can anyone head me in the right direction!
  • 204meca204meca Posts: 366
    My 93 DS Si has 78K on it. When I bought at 73K 15 months ago, it there was not history of a fluid change on the 4 spd auto. I did a complete tune up, changed timing belt & water pump & all fluids at that time. The AT was drained, refilled, drove a bit, then drained & refilled using Honda AFT.) When the tranny was drained a small rectancular peice of metal came out. Took it to several tranny shops & they had no idea what it was. At any rate it seems to work fine lthough sometimes the shifts are a bit harsh & it occasionally takes 10-20 seconds to go into overdrive once I hit 60 on the freeway.

    I have been thinking about doing some improvements but wanted to make sure the drivetrain was in good shape before investing in suspension & cosmetics. I generally am not a hard driver, about 60% of my mileage is 2-4 mile trips in uncongested urban traffic, rest highway.

    Here are my fluid analysis from Blackstone:
    Tranny fluid: Copper was the dominant metal in the first sample from your Honda's transmission. This metal tends to show wear at the clutch plates and at 154 ppm, it is well above average, especially with only 5,500 miles on the oil. This is something to watch closely next time. All other metals read below universal averages, which are based on an oil run of about 16,000 miles. We suggest changing this oil and resampling in another 5,000 miles to monitor. No moisture or insolubles were present. :(

    Motor oil (Motorcraft semisyn blend 5W20): Lead increased in the latest sample from your Del Sol. Lead is 45. Was 8 at 73K, average for this unit is 4. This level shows some lower end bearing wear. If the air filter is clean, check for cracks or leaks past the air filter. You mentioned that you. do mostly city driving. That can contribute to high bearing, but likely doesn't explain this big of an increase. These aren’t failure levels, but it is something to watch. We suggest having this oil changed and resampling in 3,000 miles to monitor. The TBN read 2.0 so you still have a little active additive left. Check the CEL code to rule out anything there. Changed oil when this analysis was done.

    Despite these depressing reports, the car seems to run fine, averaging 30- 32 mpg. The only obvious problem is the CEL often comes on after 3-5 miles on the highway.

    I plan to keep this as a daily driver for 2-4 more years & average about 4,000 miles a year & planned to change to oil once a year. I am not into engine & tranny swaps. So what do you suggest in terms of oil & ATF to help nurse as many good miles out of this drivetrain as possible? Thanks
  • i just got this 91 civic lx. it runs pretty strong. ive ran cars to the junk yard in the past. and i love this car. i want to get it up to par and keep it maintained as well as possible. am going to get oil change now. having valve thing looked @ @ 1;30. then i plan on tune up. etc. i want to baby it.
    any suggestions? also for a integral affordable good honda mechanic in the Hayward ca area. i am researching car maintenence on inet. but would like to hear from people with experience..
    thanks
  • my 1991 honda civic was running fine, idle was fine,. but there was a small ping noise in under the vavle cover. friend thought it was the lifters. and neighbor whos been mechanic for 30plus years said he knew how to fix it. so he took valve cover off and adjusted the things. now the ping is louder, and my new car is running rough- idling kinda rough. we changed the oil. my question is this. the mech neighbor wants to keep working on it. he said "oh i can get that fixed" but im afraid he'll make it worse. i found out about a good mechanic who is available next week. i was going to have that mechanic do a tune up. but now i should have him fix what my neighbor did first. any suggestions.??
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