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2013 and earlier-Honda Civic Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • A GOOD DEAL ON A CIVIC LX AUTO SEDAN: (My Humble Opinion)

    Generally speaking, I think that $300 over invoice is a Good Deal
    $200 over invoice is an Excellent Deal
    (Destination and all dealer fees must be included in the price)
    (Tax, Title, License are extra)

    The CIVIC LX AUTO SEDAN has an invoice of $16,856 ($16,261 + $595 Dest)

    So, $17,156 + TTL (300 Over Inv) is a Good Deal (all dealer fees included)

    $17,056 + TTL (200 Over Inv) is an Excellent Deal (all dealer fees included)

    In large metropolitan areas, you should have a greater chance at negotiating an excellent deal. Negotiation may be tougher in areas with fewer dealerships.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Your price is $17544.38 (for the car w/dest and fees) and invoice is $16,856 so you are paying $688.38 over. For a lot of areas that is a nice price for a new Civic. Might you do better? Maybe, but even the dealers who will sell me an Accord or S2000 for invoice or less may not go that low on a new Civic. They just are selling too well in most areas for the dealers to discount them - much.

    Dennis
  • Hi cj20,

    Just to state the obvious, every deal is unique. I concur with Indymon:$200-$300 over invoice is probably where the Civic is right now.

    That $199.00 Doc Fee is highly negotiable, or to put it another way, dealer profit.

    Good luck cj20
  • I have looked over last posts and discovered that my deal for the Auto LX is probably not a so good deal. I got it for $17,408 (base & destination). I haven;t got the car yet, it is comming in next week. Since I haven't sign any paper works, should I back out? This actually the best deal I've got so far. Should I wait till the demand for the car die down (or when the supplies increase a bit more)? Would the price go much lower in the next month?
  • After further consideration, I would like to revise my opinion of what I would consider a good deal for 2007 Civic - NATIONWIDE.

    First of all you should always do your negotiating online; not in the dealership. You should not go into A dealership until you have agreed on a price (and clarified all fees). In the dealership, too many people succumb to the smoke&mirrors, timeouts, shinny car, new car smell, and other head games dealers are taught at the secret academy. :mad: (Don't give your real telephone number. Do the negotiating via email only.)

    MY REVISED GOOD DEAL ON A CIVIC - NATIONWIDE:

    Good Deal: $500 (or less) over Invoice (including all dealer fees)

    Real Good Deal: $300 (or less) over Invoice (including all dealer fees)

    Excellent Deal: $100 (or less) over Invoice (including all dealer fees)

    Partner In Crime: Invoice Price (or less) (including all dealer fees)

    The $595 Destination charge is included in the above amounts.

    Tax, title and license (TTL) are not included in the above amounts.

    ALL CHARGES OTHER THAN THE STATE SALES TAX, STATE TITLE FEE AND STATE LICENSE FEE SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THE ABOVE AMOUNTS.

    See my post above "SOME GENERAL ADVICE FOR GETTING THE PROCESS STARTED"

    If you do your negotiating via email, you will walk into the dealership as a champ; and not a potential sucker.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    MSRP for the LX sedan with auto is $18,355 and invoice is $16,855 so your price is $553 over invoice. That is a nice price, sure you might to a little better but not a LOT better. As long as the dealer's doc fee is included or is really small then I would go for it.

    While it would be nice to get the last cent out of every deal, at some point you can just say that you have a nice deal and get your new car. In a lot of areas of the country and with a lot of dealers, $553 over invoice on a new Civic would be a smoking hot deal.

    Dennis
  • I got my LX Auto Sedan for $17028 +TTL in the Los Angeles area. This is the best deal I could get.
  • Thanks for the input. Yes, the dealer fee is included, the only extra fee that I would have to pay is $218 (standard for all cars for registration, DMV...), so the out-of-door price would be $17,626, period. I did the negotiation online, and I have checked all Honda dealers intown before settled down for this one.

    Do you have any advice or tips for me when I go to pick up the car? What should I look for or be aware of? Thanks!
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Just make sure the numbers all add up, don't give into the pressure to purchase an over priced GAP coverage or extended warranty, and check the car over to be sure all is OK before you sign anything. If you are interested in a HondaCare warranty you can purchase one online for a nice discount later (up until you hit 6k miles on the new car).

    Also if you are financing, arrange this with your bank, credit union, and/or CapitalOne online before you go to the dealership. Challenge the dealer to beat your rate for the same term on a simple interest loan and let them have the business as long as there is no "set up fee" (rare, these days) and they can do a better rate - otherwise use your pre-approved loan.

    Dennis
  • Wildsandpiper, Invoice is $16,855 for 07 LX Auto Sedan.
    $17,626 is $771 over invoice. NOT A GOOD PRICE. :(

    khung1 (above you) paid $17028 + TTL for the same car.
    khung1 paid $173 over invoice

    I'm sure you can get the 07 LX-Auto-Sedan for $17, 250 (or less).
    Apply yourself! Don't let them rob you in broad daylight.
  • khung1

    $173 over invoice is a Great Deal. You make us all proud.
    That's why we are here; to help you get a Great Deal.

    You prove that persistent negotating pays off in the end.
  • indymon,

    1. $17626 is out-of-door price, which include Everything. Yes, the price is $550 over invoice, but not $771.

    2. Do you know anyone in Oregon bought the same car for $17250 or less? If you do, please let me know the dealer.

    Thanks
  • What city/town are you closest to in Oregon?
  • where in the NE are you located?
  • I live in Clackamas. I have contacted Honda dealers in Portland, Milwakie, and Beaverton/Tigard. I haven't check the ones in Salem, but I'm not sure if I want to go that far to get a car for a couple hundreds less. :(
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    A guy has one for sale in my neighborhood and I saw it setting in his driveway with a for sale sign in it. About a week ago I took it for a test drive. It runs and drives perfectly. It has 95K miles and I think it has every factory option that was available at the time. The only thing I can see wrong is it is going to need a new set of tires before too long. However, the guy's asking price is quite high. He's asking $5900. I've priced it on Edmunds ($3925), KBB ($4555), and NADA ($4725). I haven't talked to the guy about price at all, so I have no idea how firm he is with his asking price. I also don't know if the reason the car hasn't sold yet is because the price is too high, or if he's just not advertising it. It's condition is cherry inside and out, and people are usually all over these things the second they go up for sale. I'm hoping it's just because he's not advertising it. My 17 year old daughter really wants it, and it sure looks like it would make her a very good car. I'm going to print off the pages from these sites with the prices to show him what's it valued at and see how much he's willing to come down on his price. He's gonna have to come down at least a grand on his price or I won't be making him any offers.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Get a CarFax or AutoCheck account and check the VIN and see if there are any problems. I did a comparison recently and in a small sample of test VINs the AutoCheck system showed problems for cars that the Carfax did not - and I KNEW these VINs were for cars with bad titles or wreck damage. There was ONE VIN with showed an accident on Carfax (which I knew to be minor) that did not show on AutoCheck . Since the price is the same ($25 for unlimited checks) and the AutoCheck account runs for 60 days rather than Carfax 30 days - I would get AutoCheck.

    If that checks out OK and you can work out a price, then pay a competent mechanic to go over the car BEFORE you buy. It should only cost $100-125 to get this done but could save you a ton down the road.

    See if the owner has any service history on the car. Has the timing belt been replaced? Regular oil and filter changes? Fuel filter and plugs replaced?

    Also beware of a "curb stoner" - someone acting as a car dealer but working out of their house. The AutoCheck/Carfax may show that the last thing on the list was an auto auction - where this person purchased the car to sell as if they have been driving it the entire time. Another dead giveaway - call them up and say "I am calling about the car for sale" and if they say "which one" just tell me bye-bye. You can also ask to look at the title before you decide to buy, it will tell you that it is titled to the seller or not, and the date the title was issued - how long they have had it.

    Dennis
  • i am in southern california (la area) and the lowest i can get right now for a 2007 LX sedan automatic 4 door in silver is $18,888 out the door.

    before that i had $18,988 ($17310 for the car total...rest was tax, fees, etc)

    has anyone in southern cali gotten the LX much lower OTD?

    thanks in advance!
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    Sounds like some pretty sound advice to me. I do have a mechanic I use whom I trust 100%, and he probably wouldn't even charge me $100 to check the car over. I would probably do one thing a little differently than you suggested. I would probably have the car checked out by mechanic, THEN talk price with the seller. It wouldn't make much sense to agree on a price, then have the mechanic find something that needs work and have to re-negotiate the price again. But on the other hand, if I were to talk price first, I'd be able to find out if the guy is willing to come down to a reasonable price BEFORE I spend the money to have the car checked out. If he's fairly firm on his asking price, I wouldn't be willing to pursue the sale any further anyway. Hmmmm, this creates a bit of a dilemma......which came first, the chicken or the egg?

    He did show me quite a few service receipts that showed all the normal preventive maintenance had been accomplished, along with some other stuff like the brakes being redone, exhaust system, timing belt and water pump replacement, etc.

    I don't think the guy is a "curb stoner", but I will take note of what it says in Autocheck and how the title reads. Thanks for the info.
  • dmbfiredancer

    Yoy say the best you can do for a Civic LX Auto Sedan $18,888 OTD.
    Remember, everything you pay for the car other than the mandatory State costs (TTL) is part of the True Car Price.
    A lot may be hidden in the term "FEES" or "OTD"

    Please do the following calculations:
    Add the State Tax, Title & License costs: $
    Subtract the above TTL from your OTD Price: ($18,888 - TTL)= True Car Cost.
    Using the calculation above, what is the True Car Cost?
    True Car Cost: (Civic LX Auto Sedan) $

    Please show the calculations so we all can see.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    That is what I meant, if you can't agree to a decent price then all bets are off. If you can get something reasonable, then pay for the inspection. If the seller and AutoCheck/CarFax show only a single owner and the seller has a title in hand in his name then you may have a cream puff on your hands :D . If he has all those receipts then a lot of the parts that may be ready to fail have already been replaced. Keep in mind that a single owner car with an owner with all the receipts - both for the expensive things like timing belt, etc and for routine oil and filter changes - may be worth more (to me) than what the book value of the car would be. So going to some used car lot and finding a similar car you would not want to pay nearly as much as one that someone has owned and can show they cared for from day one.

    On most newer cars you can check the VIN stickers to see if all the body panels are original. There should be one on each fender (viewed with the hood open), the hood, doors, quarter panels (viewed with the trunk open), and the trunk lid. If the car has any stickers it should (if all original) have them all. Sometimes the front door stickers are on the underside of the door - a little hard to see. If an OEM VIN sticker is missing, then that panel has been replaced - so there was a wreck in the past - no matter if AutoCheck/CarFax show it or not.

    Dennis
  • wildsandpiper

    Log in and check your mailbox.
  • indymon,

    I did but found nothing :confuse:
  • Just got a quote from Spreen Honda. Not sure where it is since I've been working with them through e-mail. They quoted me 18,498 OTD. Gonna try to work them down to 18,300. Always send quotes you receive to other dealers and ask them to beat it. When they beat it, repeat the process.
  • I should have checked the boards first, but I think I got a good deal on a Civic EX. It had all options but leather and navigation. I got sunroof and dealer options like all weather floor mats, splash guards and door trim.

    I drove off at $19K even including all taxes title and license fees. that's everything.

    That included $1K on a trade (it was wrecked).

    Any thoughts? just trying to vaildate the purchase.
  • I recently bought a new '07 Civic Hybrid, and when going through the final paperwork, the employee (not the manager or the showroom exec.; this was the financial/paperwork person) said that for an additional $510 (a "discount" from $990) we could get the security system. We pointed out that as the website and specs say, the car comes with the security system, but he insisted this is an anti-theft system that only covers break-in via the doors. Isn't the car already wired for the security system? And is it necessary to go through Honda for them to "initialize" something the car is already wired to do? Many thanks.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    ....and I showed him the price print-out from KBB, Edmunds, and NADA. I told him I was willing to pay the highest price of the 3 (which was the $4725 price from NADA). He said he was looking to get more like $5500 and was in no hurry to sell. Then I told him I would go $5000 tops. He said he would think about it and give me call tomorrow. I also told him the car would have to check out with a mechanic with no problems at that price. We'll see what happens next.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    It looks like all the Civics come with a security system - there is no Honda "upgrade" or system for sale as an accessory that I can see.

    I don't know what they are trying to sell you for $510, but I would pretty much assume it is a rip off. You didn't take it, did you?

    You can test your system easily, park the car with the windows down and get out and lock it with the remote. Reach in and open a door - the alarm should go off. If there is a hood switch (you should be able to see it) you could do the same test by leaning in and popping the hood.

    In any case, your new Honda should have an alarm and no need for you or the dealer to do anything else to make it work. If your door test fails, it is a warranty repair item. If there are hood and trunk switches and they fail the test, it should also be fixed under warranty.

    Dennis
  • Isn't the dealer required by law to inspect the new car for all parts and functionality before the car is sold? What if the buyers miss testing something while test driving the car and discover the defects later? I know the car has warranty but the buyer would have to go thru process of getting the car fix while it's not their faults. Is there anywhere in the piles of paperwork (buyer's guide) says anything about the fact the dealer guarantee that the car is in its origin and that there's no modifications or fix due to bad quality control or transportation problem (while moving the car from manufacture to dealers)....?
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    Yes, they SHOULD go through the car completely before they deliver it to you. It should be clear, full of gas, tires properly inflated, and ready to go. Some dealers will even give you a check list showing what (in theory) was checked.

    Do they do it? Depends on the dealership.

    The only thing the dealer has to disclose is if the car was damaged while they had it in their possession. So if someone wrecks it on a test drive or an employee does, then they have to disclose that. What happened before the dealer got it, they don't "know" so they don't have to say anything. It is always up to up to go over your new car "with a fine tooth comb" before you accept it and sign any papers. This is to look for things like scratches, dents, dings, etc. The electrical and mechanical stuff is covered by the warranty, so if you don't check everything before you leave it is OK. Be sure to take YOUR CAR on a test drive before you sign anything - and after you have checked it over. Run it up to highway speeds and check for vibrations, etc.

    I have had generally good delivery experiences with new Hondas, with Swope leading the way as far and the "Experience" goes.

    Anything that does not live up to your expectations should be taken up with the dealer at delivery time and if they fail to follow through then ding them on the dealer survey from Honda.

    Dennis
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