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2013 and earlier-Honda Civic Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Wow - one of the best prices we've seen in this forum - about 2000 below invoice. You should share the technique that got you this great deal - it will help others on the forum.

    Congrats and enjoy your new Honda!

    Bill G
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    What is the selling price minus the TTL (tax, title & license)? A total out the door price without an itemized breakdown is no help because TTL varies by location. A good price on this car would be around 21,300 including destination but before any fees and taxes. That's about 1500 below invoice.

    Bill G
  • Thanks Bill.
    Selling price is 23,505 and about $2000 is TTL and Dealer's fee.
    I too think it's pricy.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Your thinking is correct - that dealer has a lot of work to do on the price. Do you have any other dealers within a reasonable distance that you can get quotes from? I think you will see the price drop quickly if you get some competition going. Try to work with dealers who have good Internet mgrs/depts who are willing to negotiate through email.

  • Hi,

    Just wanted to share that the Honda Dealers seem to be more open minded to discounting the Civics give the new Corolla is quite a nice car and formidable competitor. I nearly bought a Corolla this week but was able to get a NEW 2013 Civic LX in my desired color combination with no dealer options. Dealers really seem to inflate the cost of basic easy to install options so I like to get the basic vehicle as I can install, mud flaps, floor mats and most accessories.

    Civic LX
    MSRP 19,755 (incl. Destination)
    Invoice 18,423 (incl. Destination)
    Selling Price 16,866 (includes $1000.00 of dealer and loyalty cash)
    OTD of 18,457.36 after Tax (7.0%) Title and Fees.

    As the math works you pay tax on the 1,000 (customer cash) as it's included in Selling price and backed out as a down payment customer cash or flex cash I think the called it. It was mandatory to finance through Honda in order to get a piece of that 1000.00 I think it was 500 loyalty and 500 flex etc.

    First negotiate and agree on a selling price via Email. Ask for best OTD pricing with detail. Many will reply with request for phone number. Just ask for OTD that you're evaluating on price first. If you have a trade get it appraised at Carmax if possible (clean it all up well first) and you have a low wholesale amount that most dealers should be willing and able to top. Check KBB, Edmunds, NADA website and others for used value and be reasonable to realize those services WON'T buy your car and don't sell used cars so you may need some flexibility. Remember it's all a negotiation and the dealer has an obligation to make the most profit possible. If you squeeze them on the selling price of the new car you leave little room or profit on a trade in. Straight Cash/finance deals are easier since no second negotiation on a trade it is involved. I've got to believe that the profit is still at least $500.00 on this deal, and maybe hidden in other elements and volume discounts and rewards that the bigger dealers get. Good luck to all you Honda Civic shoppers. The civic is a great car and I anticipate many years of good service and fairly low cost per mile of operation.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Congrats zackley - this is exactly how to go about a vehicle purchase to get a great deal - I hope vehicle shoppers in this forum heed your advice and employ it.

    Enjoy your new Civic!

    Bill G
  • Hi everyone,

    My 02 Impala decided to die after 12 years of faithful service. I looked into getting a smaller car and decided on the civic. I decided to get the EX trim for the added disk brakes. It is my first time buying a car, but I think I did alright.

    Civic EX

    MSRP: 21,605
    Dealer's Price: 22,200 with pro package
    Invoice: 20,450
    Sales Price: 19,400
    OTD Price: 20,800

    I might have done better, but I had been without a car for two weeks at this point. The dealership had the color combo I wanted, so I pulled the trigger. I was approved for the 1.9% 60 mos. Let me know how I did.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    You did great - got a pretty good price and great financing on a fantastic car.

    Congrats and enjoy your new EX!

    Bill G
  • Bought mine in PA about 5 weeks ago:

    $21,735 plus TT.

    Walked out the door with 1.9% at $23,293.

    Had a Civic about 12 years ago. Now I have one to complement my 10 year old 180k Pilot.

    I absolutely LOVE this car!!!!

    Thanks to all for feedback and advice
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Great job dagwave!

    Congrats and enjoy your new Civic!

    Bill G
  • Got the civic for an OTD price of $ 17,169. Got $1000 in dealer cash including $500 for loyalty.

    Don't have the exact breakdown in front of me, but thought I would share the bottom line price. This is at Hendrick honda in Woodbridge, VA.

    I don't think I have seen a better OTD price than this lately.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    From what I understand, sales tax on vehicle purchases in VA is capped at $300. That's why it is difficult to gauge how good a deal is using out the door figures - not many states have that good of deal on sales tax. It looks like you got a good deal but it's hard to say for sure because we don't know your actual selling price. A great deal would be 1500 below invoice (including destination and any dealer doc fee) plus whatever incentives you qualified for. So if your sales price was around 16000 plus TTL, you got a great deal.

    Congrats and enjoy your new Civic!

    Bill G
  • mars86mars86 Posts: 1
    Hi All

    I just got a great deal for the EX-L. My out the door price is $21,353. I live in NY and am purchasing in NJ because my family has purchased from this dealer several times before.

    It would have been $22,853, but was able to get several incentives for dealer loyalty, having a graduate degree, and getting a approval for 0.9 % financing. This reduced my price by $1500!!

    I will be picking up my car this Saturday. I think this is the month to buy a civic!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 32,305
    I think that's South Carolina that has the $300 cap... Last I saw VA, it was around 3.17% ..

    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    You're right kyfdx - I should've remembered that since I lived in VA while in the military - I just looked it up and it went to 4% this past July. I'm still envious though because that's less than half what we pay in CA.


    Bill G
  • My quote:our Internet Sale Price is *19,375
    Special Monthly Lease Payment *210
    Special Financing - 0.9% up to 60 months with approved credit

    This does include destination fee but not tax, title, license and documentation fee. Does anyone have any advice on a good price to negotiate? Please help. I am new to this.
  • karhill1karhill1 Posts: 115
    Get the invoice price. Get the holdback percentage. Research incentives, both dealer and customer.

    Take invoice and reduce by he holdback and incentives. That amount is a starting point.

    Research these price posts to see if there is any relevant price info.

    Contact multiple dealers via the internet. Avoid dealers who do not provide a price. Research dealer reviews. Avoid Dealer Rater as they rate too high.

    Choose a dealer and start negotiating. Never, ever believe anything a sales person states. Example, just bought a new vehicle. Got a good offer which was $1,200 off my price estimate. Salesman assured me that was the best I would find anywhere. Left and went to the next dealer on my list. I got the price I wanted.

    Best thing to remember is to use your feet. If a deal is not right, just walk away. There is always another deal and you are always in control of the deal. Of course a sales person is highly trained to make you think they are in control.
  • Appreciate the good counsel also. Can you advise what a holdback is?
  • Also had a second follow up question. What source do you reference to identify the incentives for dealer and customer?
  • OTD price at $17,594 (including 6% taxes and 250 for tags). Is that a good deal?
  • That sounds like a good price for an LX. Where did you get that price?
  • I just got a similar price to your deal.

    Honda Civic EX

    Sales Price: 19,050
    OTD Price: 20,700

    Difference between sale and OTD prices is only the NYC tax: 8.875%.

    Interesting thing is that I likely could have gotten the car for cheaper, this was the dealers offer when I asked for the best price.

    I have no incentives that went into reducing this price. I have no trade-in, no conquest cash, no military discount, and no student discount.

    Was this a decent deal?
  • Warning: This is a long write-up so I'll just jump into the details first and follow with what my experience was in researching and shopping for the EX and LX. This is my way of giving back. Thanks and kudos for all the other active posters that helped me gather knowledge and gain perspective. This is for CA so needless to say your experience could be different. But I'm saying it anyhow in prep for some of the flamers out there. Ultimately, I hope this is of help to someone.

    Sales Price (including Destination charge of $790): $18,135
    Document Processing Charge: $80 Taxable
    Dealer Add-ons: $0
    DMV Fees: $247 Non-taxable
    State Tire Fee: $8.75 Non-taxable
    Sales Tax: $1,457.20
    Current Incentives: $500 "Conquest" + $500 for Financing = $1,000 total qualified
    Financing: 0.9% for 36 months
    Total OTD: $18927.95 ($19,927.95-$1,000)

    Lets go through this line by line for those of you who have questions about strategy or even what does this mean?
    1) Destination charge is non-negotiable. In CA it is $790 and I'm almost sure it's standard across the US. When you are hunting for quotes on the internet, be careful about asterisks tied to the sale price. There will most definitely be some fine print. Read it. Carefully. Usually there will be something about dealer add-ons NOT being included. More on this below. One other note, sales price quoted better be below MSRP. Don't even bother with that dealer if it isn't at least $1k below MSRP.

    2) Aka "Doc Fee" but due to CA legislation this is the term used. Used to be $55 but now capped at $80 in CA as of 2011. As far as I know, non-negotiable. Don't complain though as it is as high as $499-$599 in FL and other Southeastern states.

    3) Add-ons - Negotiable. As you compile and compare quotes, ask the internet manager to let you know if there any dealer add-ons for the specific car you are interested in. My suggestion, as you are shopping on-line, look at the dealers inventory and get the exact VIN for the car you are interested in (color, trim, etc.) and then you can pinpoint and more importantly pin him/her to let you know exactly what is on it. Hint: If you just ask for availability of color/trim, their strategy is to tell you that it is available and to "Just come on in!" As you arrive lured in by the very low base price...surprise! There is a bunch of over priced optional equipment added. There are also options you may want like fog lights. But for $800?!! C'mon. But if you really want OEM then be sure to negotiate.

    4) This is Title, License, Registration and other fees. I can't say with complete certainty but license is probably standard but registration is most likely based purely on price of the car. Anyhow, the point is it varies by state, type of car, and even trim. $247 for EX and $236 for LX goes to the DMV. Yay. Non-negotiable but also not taxable.

    5) Tire fees: Self-explanatory; non-negotiable but also not taxable.

    6) Sales Tax: Varies within the state and based on the zip code/address of where the car will be registered (and supposedly used in). I bought this car for my mom and tax was 8%. If I bought it for me in LA area it would have been 9%. Play the shell game to reduce tax at your own risk.

    7) Incentives: Ask the dealer what is available. Currently, if you finance not only can you get a great rate at 0.9% for 36mos (oac) but you also get a $500 rebate. This means $500 off the OTD price, which is post-tax. Must finance at least $5k via Honda Financial Services (HFS). No cost to set up the loan. No pre-payment penalty either. For all cash buyers, you might as well finance to get the rebate. However, it will not truly be $500 off. There is a minimum $75 amount due even if you prepay. In my case, the dealer set up a 24 mos term at 0.9% where the total interest would have been about $50... so I actually pay $25 more to get rid of the loan thus my benefit is $425. Splitting hairs I know. Conquest and Loyalty rebates are available. $500 each but you can only get one or the other and not both. Conquest is if you own a 2003 or newer vehicle that is one of their competitors like Toyota, Nissan, Ford, etc. Also military rebates... Again ask the dealer.

    If you've read this far I hope it was informative. The funniest part about this whole thing is that I was set on buying the LX since my mom didn't want anything "fancy" like a moonroof. In the end, the increased safety of the disc brakes and alloy wheels made this a no brainer beacuse the LX price I got was about $800(!) lower than everybody else. It could be that I may have just got lucky with being in the right place at the right time but as others have said, you gotta play the dealerships back and forth to ratchet the price down. I read back to about April 2013 for this forum and the lowest EX quote I saw was about $20,400 OTD.

    Finally, as an FYI (if this whole post isn't already a very long FYI) I researched dealers in the San Gabriel Valley area and in Sacramento (where my mom lives) and even a few in the East Bay. There are about 50 Honda dealers in the greater LA area and about 5 in the Sacramento area. Interestingly enough, the best deal I found was in Sacramento. No, I did not contact all 50 dealers in SoCal but I contacted about 10 in the San Gabriel and San Fernando Valley area (this does not include Cerritos Honda which I have heard is a high volume dealership in OC and where you can get aggressive quotes); but my point being when I went back to some of the SoCal dealers with some of my Sacramento quotes, and not even the lowest one that I ended up getting, they already dropped out. I hope this info helps someone also get a great deal like I think I did. Like I said, I read back to about April 2013 on this Civic forum and gained some valuable information. My goal is to save you the trouble of reading all those other posts and other internet research I did by consolidating into this one post.

    Below is the LX quote I got from Folsom Lake Honda in Sacramento from Clay, the internet and fleet manager, if you are also interested in that. But like I said, because this dealership's price was soo low, I asked how much the EX would be and at $18,930 OTD it was about the same OTD prices that I was getting for the LX trim. EX for an LX price. Good luck!

    Base Sales Price: $16,422
    Document Processing Charge: $80 Taxable
    Dealer Add-ons: $0
    DMV Fees: $236 Non-taxable
    Tire Fee: $8.75 Non-taxable
    Sales Tax: $1,320.16
    Current Incentives: $500 "Conquest" + $500 for Financing = $1,000 total qualified
    Total OTD: $17,066.91 ($18,066.91-$1,000)
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Outstanding post carb guy - one of the best I've seen on this site - I'm sure it will help a lot of buyers out.

    Congrats on the new EX for your mom - she's gonna love it!

    Bill G
  • muki1muki1 Posts: 5
    Nice post and excellent price on an EX Sedan. Enjoy!
  • That is a GREAT price! And an awesome post carb_guy!
    I almost pulled the trigger on a 2013 Civic Sedan auto for $18,000 OTD, but I thought the deals may get better, wrong $18,500 now. I'm in Ohio BTW.
    When are the 2014 coming out?
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 221
    Holdback is a percentage the manufacturer pays dealers for a sold vehicle. For Honda, I believe it is 2 percent of base MSRP. Holdback essentially reduces the cost of the vehicle for the dealer. Manufacturers know many buyers, most, have access to invoice pricing so they developed holdback as a way to allow dealers profit while selling at or near invoice.

    For example, if the base MSRP of a Honda is $20,000, the holdback is $400. If the invoice price is $19,000 the effective cost to the dealer is actually $18,600 ($19,000 less $400 holdback).

    Holdback is one reason, some dealers willingly sell below invoice. In addition to holdback, there are often other manufacturer to dealer incentives, such as volume discounts, which are often difficult to learn.

    Edmunds has a list of holdback by manufacturer on the website.

    Some dealers are more willing to pass all or some of the holdback to the customer. This makes comparison shopping essential if a person is interested in a lower price as even at invoice, most dealers will still make a profit. Any dealer who says they will lose money if they sell at or slightly above invoice is probably not being complete honest.
  • redhaw7 in Ohio, can you tell me what dealership you bought your 2013 Civic EX Sedan at? Looks like you got a fair price.
  • Thanks Bill G! You are one of the active posters that I was referring to and I gained alot of from your many informative posts. Besides that aspect, I salute you as a veteran and wish you the best as you stand proud this Monday.
  • Thanks muki1, I thought your post about the 80% calculation was a simple yet innovative approach and quite helpful.
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