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If you have a poor compensation plan where you work.. why is that the consumer's problem? If they only paid me $100 for a $1400 profit deal, then I would find another job..
The last car I bought sold for over $4000 under MSRP.. How much did the salesperson make? Beats me... I'm guessing a little more than a mini.. but, not really my business..
My job as a consumer? Get the best deal I can.. If the price is negotiable, and you don't negotiate, then "a fool and his money" would be the appropriate label...
regards,
kyfdx
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They don't care about any of that!
SOME of us are interested in Civics, and not the rest, okay?
Thank you.
P.S: Life still ain't fair.
I approach this like a basic business transaction, get the product for the least amount as possible. Plain and simple, money talks. I've already researched to death all the vehicles I might consider and know them better than probably 98% of the salesman.
Sorry for going off topic host.
There are tons of good discussions about sales in the Smart Shopper boards..
As other members have reminded us... let's get back to Civic: Prices Paid discussions..
Thanks,
kyfdx
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You do have to qualify for this rate.
I'm coming to the end of a 36 month lease on a 2003 Civic LX. The price to buy the car off the lease is $9,400. I'm interested in buying a new civic or CRV. What's the best way to go about this? From what I can tell, the car is worth more than the $9,400. Does it pay to go to the same dealer that I did the original lease from (there are others closer, and from whom I've been quoted better prices for the new civic or CRB)? Will the dealer I pruchase the new car from arrange for the pay off of my lease if they accept the trade in? Thanks in advance for the help.
Pat
Since you're trading in, NONE of the wear and tear/milage should be a factor, that's only used when you're returning a vehicle after the lease and walking away.
The no-doubt STUPIDEST experience was from a Mazda dealer though...check this out:
I was at a Mazda dealer in Dallas while my girlfriend shopped for a used car. I was bored so I started looking around the new car lot. I should mention that I am in an '04 Lancer Ralliart now and looking for more mileage and a lower payment. I have decided the Honda Civic is the car for me but a salesman came out and we started talking about Mazdas...as I had nothing better to do while waiting. I even told him I wanted a Civic...which he conceded was a good car...he even owns an Accord. (an odd point that I pointed out to him, working for Mazda and driving a Honda).
Anyway, we talked and I agreed to drive the 3. Which I didn't 'not' like. I just still didn't like it as much as the Civic. The mileage is not as good and it doesn't have all the options I want. Well, I figured to myself, if the 3 is less per month...saving money is my ultimate goal so why not at least talk, right? So they want to look at my trade in so see what they can offer for it. But I had to leave to meet my girlfriend who'd already left the lot in her dad's car. Well I said I'd come back and let them look at my trade in...which happened about an hour later as my girlfriend decided on the used miata she was looking at so she went to make the deal. During that time, I let them look at my trade. We finished that part of it and again I left because my girlfriend's deal was done.
So then I get a call from the salesman saying he wanted to make an appointment for me to come in. I asked why since he'd already seen my trade...told him just get me some numbers and I'll see if I like them. He said they can't do it that way because I needed to be there for that. I've never had a dealer say that to me before. He just said that's the way it's done. So I said I'd 'get back with him' because no way am I driving all that way just to hear them tell me my trade in isn't worth what I want for it. I know exactly what it's worth and I am not taking less. What I want for it is very fair as well...and they stand to make a good bit of cash when they re-sell it as it is still in excellent condition. To think he thought I was going to fall for the 'let's keep him at the dealership for hours until he finally relents and buys our car' game....he's nuts. Sheeeesh. I do believe I'll be sticking with the Civic...just as soon as I find a dealer that is willing to be honest and play ball with me.
Maybe I missed the boat, but if I'm understanding this correctly, they gave you a great price for the Civic, threw in a bunch of accessories, then made it all up plus more on your trade.
thanks!
But I won't though. I'm sooo done with them. I wasn't even in the market for a 3 anyway. I was just giving him 'the chance' he asked me for. And he blew it. Salesmen....they must think we're stupid.
One of the Honda guys tried pulling something similar one night too. One moment he tells me that the prices for the Civic are fixed and like 'no-haggle' prices THEN as he increases the ammount offered for my trade-in...he also increases the price of the Civic. Needless to say HE won't be seeing me again either.
Actually that's not entirely accurate. He might see me again. When I roll up in a black LX coupe and tell him the sale could have been his if only he were a better salesman. Heh ;-)
If you have a Honda lease then you have some options for your situation.
1. You can trade the car in
2. You can turn the car in
3. You can sell the car outright
4. You can keep the car and pay off what you owe.
Now, how a lease end deal usually works is like this. Lets say that you have three months before lease end. The caveat is mileage, if you are within the mileage as agreed to at the beginning of your lease...or if you are over. This doe make a difference. Ok, so lets say that you have a few months left and you want to trade it in now. The dealership will appraise your car, they will also want to know how many payments are left and the amount of those payments. They would take your car in and send off the remaining payments to clear the title...you buy the car and your on your way.
If you are too far away from the end of your lease termination, basically you're stuck. Leases are very hard to get out of before lease termination...thats the trade off for a lower payment and shorter term. If you are over in mileage, then trading or selling might be your only option, unless you want to write a check at lease turn in.
Leasing is pretty complicated in that there are many variables. I hope this helps.
Ok, so lets recap. you spent a couple of hours at the Mazda dealer test driving and having your car appraised...no problem there, right? You left before you were presented their numbers. So, they called you and asked that you come in and you find that offensive?
Has it ever occured to you that it just might be the proper thing is to say. "You know I'm not interested in the Mazda, I am looking to buy a Civic...thanks but no thanks?" Instead of wasting time and effort and emotion on something you weren't interested in buying in the first place.
"Actually that's not entirely accurate. He might see me again. When I roll up in a black LX coupe and tell him the sale could have been his if only he were a better salesman."
What a condescending attitude. Here is a tip, LX Civic Coupes are very hard to get. With spring right around the corner, Civic are going to be even less available on the lots. To save yourself some trouble when you get ready to actually buy the car, call ahead or email before playing the game. The dealer has to have the car before you can deal, so try to get that established first.
I'll even help you out if you want. Let me know exactly what you're looking for and the area where you are and I'll plusg it into the Honda system and give you some dealers that have them in either "build status inventory" or "physically" have them. You can shoot me an email if you want.
I didn't like that the civic was so much in demand, but really like this car so it was the best deal i could get.
One thing the finance office sprang on me that was new was "vehicle protection program" . Anyone seen this before? They replace your vehicle with a "new" vehicle for up to 5 years if it is stolen. It is by Southwest. I bit over the lojack I was going to get. I hope it works out. As I did have a new vehicle totalled before and my insurance only covers actual value. (kbb value usually the low end).
I wouldn't want to buy a used car that is couple years old and being able to get "new" current year model sounds good for about 125 for 5 years. Plus transferrable for a fee to a new owner.
Any advice would be helpfu.
I'm with jmurman on this. Either you want the car or you don't. If you really aren't interested in the Mazda you're wasting the dealer's time and your own time. Furthermore, I'll never understand why some refuse to set foot in the dealership to negotiate (you've already been there working with someone, right?). If the deal is bad, you walk. If the dealership or salesman appears disreputable or worse, you walk. If they can't deliver the exact car you want, you walk.
Driving back to the Mazda dealership in a car you purchased elsewhere makes you look petty and childish. Do you think the dealer really cares that you bought something else? If the salesman is a slippery as you think he probably won't be there by the time you drive up in your Honda and all your posturing will be moot.
Gogiboy
The dealership is 20 miles away from me so, if he's not going to present decent numbers over the phone, I'm not wasting time and gas to go back. Especially when I ask a simple question like the price of the vehicle and he won't answer. I don't play those stupid dealer games...never have and never will. If he wants to give me incentive to return...he can answer a simple question.
And the part about going back to show off my new car wasn't to the Maxda guy...I know he could care less. I was referrin to the other Honda dealer here in town that I won't be doing business with because of their shady practices. It was also a joke...as I have better things to do than show up at a dealership to gloat.
What do you guys think?
Put a refundable deposit.
Personaly I'd settle on getting the Civic you want, the right color, transmission etc. You know what you would pay for the car, so just pull the trigger whenever you are ready. Prices are going to be steady for the remainder of the year...not enough cars and high demand.
Anyway.. Prices Paid and Buying Experiences... only
Thanks,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
It doesn't matter what we think, what does matter is are there dealers in your area that will sell one of that price. EX Nav Civics in my area (east coast)equate to about 5% of our orders. For every 100 Civics ordered we get allocated 5 Navi Civics. Again...too few cars and high demand don't equate to invoice or below invoice deals.
Rockland County, NY and Bergen County, NJ.
If as you wrote, you are a "Honda Exec", other than just with an independent dealership, you wouldn't have had to ask.
The internet sales rep. I made the transaction with was very down to earth. The business office and customer relations person were a bit pushy on the protective coating and extended warranty though. All said and done the vehicle cost was ~$17,650.00, plus tax tags and title the "on the road" cost was ~$19,450. Not bad for around here.
Having driven my Civic for almost 500 miles now I can say it has to be the best generation yet. All the refinements have paid off. Handling is sharp with the firmer suspension, steering is quick, the more powerful engine is an improvement on the old. Gas mileage is still kinda low, but having not broken the car in completely I'm not all that surprised. I've been getting around 31-34 MPG
combined driving.
My one complaint that I have in the the rear deck panel concealing the speakers rattles on certain frequencies from the sub woofer. I saw some other people on other threads stuffed foam or something in between the panel and the glass. I know I could fix it myself, but having bought the car not too long ago I feel the dealer should try to fix it first.
Has anyone else experienced this or tried to take it back to the dealer for a repair?
Still shopping around and looking for a better deal, plus desiding between LX and EX.
What do you people think, is it worth, extra 1200-1600 to pay for EX?