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Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 2005 and earlier

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  • Anybody have any luck figuring out this under dash buzz when cold and pressing the accelerator...

    It is really annoying me.
  • jmingjming Posts: 9
    Scary experience last night with my 2003 Mtneer V8 AWD, approx 65,000 miles. ABS light turned on about 2-3 days ago but all seemed fine while driving, I figured I'd take it in to be looked at this week - no big deal. Last night as I was driving approx 65 mph I started to feel an odd fluttering through the wheel, an intermittently as if the steering wheel wasn't connected to anything - then sudden return to control. After several cycles of this, I slowed way down and looked in my mirror - smoke pouring out behind me. As I pulled over, brake pedal went to the floor...strong burning smell - maybe brake fluid? On inspection, front left wheel is very toed out - something must have snapped - maybe a tie rod(s) and the bending of the other tie rods took out the brake line. Hoping to talk to the mechanic tomorrow. Just glad no one was injured / killed by this failure at 65k miles. Anyone have any experience with this type of problem? I'm a lifetime Ford driver and am a little shocked by this - someone could have been killed if I'd lost control. Thanks for any ideas.
  • I have a 2002 Explorer XLT. Recently the door ajar chime (sometimes the dash indicator light also) sounds intermittently while I am driving. I have lubricated all of the door latches with WD-40, yet it persists. I was told that a module had possibly failed (it was not tested) earlier this year and I did not pursue the matter, as it did not appear to be life and death for the truck. This was somehow related to the accessory delay feature, which no longer works. When I lock it remotely, the horn beeps twice, as if there is a door ajar (which there is not). The interior lights also stay on for the length of time the accessory delay would normally work and all switches (including the outside keypad) on the driver's door no longer work after I remove the key from the ignition, however, the front passenger door switches function normally at the same time. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • Just recently purchased a 2004 Mountaineer from a friend. It was a Smart Buy lease he bought out and decided to sell to me. Suddenly the Transmission is acting up. Kicks when placing into reverse . When in drive shifting is very sluggish. I just saw a news report from 2004 claiming they had put out a Bulletin to fix this problem. I went to the dealer and he said I must change the trans for 3500.00? Car is over Warranty at 48K. Has anyone had success getting Ford to repair this issue ?
  • I just purchased a 04 Mountaineer and called the previous owner to ask him if he had any problems . The only problem that he had was a problem shifting into reverse . He said that it sounded really hard and that he thought that the tranny was going to fall out ! Ended up being a solenoid (maybe $100)although his was covered under his warranty . I have also seen this problem on the crown vics(shift solenoid) . Get a second opinion and do it objectively ( not disclosing your first quote)., Mention that you are aware of the potential of the shift soleniod being bad because many times mechs take advantage of buyers who don't know any better . and try to sell them the transmission when in fact the problem could be other issues . By the way , is your engine the V8 or the V6 ?
  • I just noticed that my lift gate has a crack in it starting from the window down thru the Mercury emblem. I've not had any damage to the vehicle nor have I hit anything with the lift gate. Has anyone else had this issue and if so how did they resolve it. My Mountaineer is out of warranty.
  • I have the same problem, it is almost every time we drive the car cold now. Dealer has had twice over past few years and can never duplicate it. At dealer now for three days running and they say they cant duplicate,
    Did you ever have any luck solving problem?
    I will update tomorrow, last day they are going to try this time, if they are successful.
  • I figured out what this buzz is - Only when cold - It is in the transmission main control unit (vavle body). It is fluid making a vibration in the valve body only when cold. I was taking my 2002 explorer in for the last inspection - prior to the extended warrante expiring. Ford could here the buzz, but they could not figure it out... This was really annoying me, they could hear it, but could not figure it out.

    Found a TSB # 01-22-3 that covered it. Dealer ordered parts - Will update once the valve body is changed. See the TSB attached below.

    A/T - Buzzing Noise When Torque Converter Engaged
    Article No.
    01-22-3

    11/12/01

    ^ NOISE - BUZZING NOISE FROM THE
    TRANSMISSION WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER
    IS ENGAGED - VEHICLES PRODUCED 11/15/2000
    THROUGH 11/11/2001 EQUIPPED WITH 4.6L
    ENGINE AND 5R55W TRANSMISSION ONLY

    ^ TRANSMISSION - 5R55W - BUZZING NOISE FROM
    THE TRANSMISSION WHEN THE TORQUE
    CONVERTER IS ENGAGED - VEHICLES PRODUCED
    11/15/2000 THROUGH 11/11/2001 EQUIPPED WITH
    4.6L ENGINE ONLY

    FORD:
    2002 EXPLORER

    MERCURY:
    2002 MOUNTAINEER

    ISSUE

    Some vehicles built prior to 11/11/2001 equipped with 5R55W and 4.6L engine, may exhibit a buzzing noise when the torque converter is engaged and the transmission fluid temperature is between 38-66°C (100-150 °F). This may be caused by a high velocity of fluid flow in the Main Control.

    ACTION

    Verity that the condition exists using the procedure listed. If the conditions described are verified, the Main Control will need to be replaced. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS.

    1. To verity that the condition exists with the vehicle, first connect a tachometer to the engine if the vehicle is not already equipped.

    2. Install an NGS or equivalent and monitor the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT).

    3. Start the engine and drive the vehicle.

    4. When the TFT reaches 38°C (100 °F), maintain a constant speed of about 80 km/h (50 mph) to engage the converter. Tap the brake pedal with the left foot. Engine RPM should increase when the brake pedal has been tapped, and decrease after about five seconds after the pedal is released.

    5. Maintaining a constant vehicle speed, allow the torque converter to re-engage.

    6. Listen for the Torque Converter Clutch buzzing noise. Is the noise present?

    ^ If yes, continue with the verification.

    ^ If no, follow normal diagnosis as listed in the Workshop Manual, the Main Control is not the problem.


    7. Continue to bring the transmission to operating temperature above 66°C (150°F). This may be accomplished by driving the vehicle for 15 to 20 minutes.

    8. After normal operating temperature is reached, maintain a constant speed of about 80 km/h (50 mph) to engage the converter. Tap the brake pedal with the left foot. Engine RPM should increase when the brake pedal has been tapped, and decrease after about five seconds after the pedal is released.

    9. Maintaining a constant vehicle speed, allow the torque converter to re-engage.

    10. Listen for the Torque Converter Clutch buzzing noise. Has the noise disappeared?

    ^ If yes, continue.

    ^ If no, follow normal diagnosis as listed in the Workshop Manuals, the Main Control is not the problem.


    11. If the condition exists, drain the transmission fluid from the pan.

    NOTE AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS ARTICLE.

    12. Replace the Main Control 1L2Z-7A100-CA and Fluid Filter 1L2Z-7A098-AC. Follow the steps listed in the Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Main Control Valve Body, to remove and replace.

    13. Verify the condition has been corrected.

    14. Clear all DTCs

    Parts Block

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

    012203A Verify Conditions And 2.6 Hrs.
    Replace Transmission
    Main Control

    DEALER CODING
    CONDITION
    BASIC PART NO. CODE
    7A100 42

    OASIS CODES: 504000, 702000
  • rvkmrvkm Posts: 2
    I noticed the same crack on my 04 Mountaineer, just under the middle liftgate window cracking down to the top of the emblem, down the right side of it. Any knows easy fixes?
  • My daugher has the same crack in her 2003 mountainer. She took it to the dealer, and they said it is very common on the 03 mountainer with around 38,000 miles. She has 39,000 miles and missed it being covered under the warranty by 3,000 miles. The dealer also stated that the crack will spyder after a while, and Ford should have a recall, but they don't at the present time. They told her to dispute it. If she doesn't get anywhere, maybe she will start a class action suit, because it is definity a defect.
  • rvkmrvkm Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I I found a replacement part on www.trademotion.com for about 65 dollars.
  • I also just noticed this crack about a month ago, figuring what I did to have it crack like that, but now reading these posts, it definatley must be a defect. My friend was a mechanic for a ford dealer, He said we should call the ford hotline and put in our complaints, that could trigger them to do something about this issue
  • Hi all. Anyone know If there Is an aftermarket heated seat element for an 04Mercury Mountaineer Premier. Or only OEM? My drivers seat stop working and I need a few questions answered as far as Do it yourself or having it replaced by a pro. Also Is this a costly repair?
  • I'm having the same issue with my 2003 Mountaineer and can't figure it out. I am nervous that since the dome lights and side view mirror lights won't go out, it's going to kill the battery. I think I'm okay with my door switches (haven't had a problem with those yet) but have you had any resolution with this? I noticed you posted over a month ago-- How'd it work out?
  • I came out one morning to find a crack on the lift gate on the right side of my ford emblem. I could not figure out what happened. Since then I've seen 4 other Explorers and or Aviators around the same year with cracks some on the right and some on the left of the emblems. I think I will call Fords Hot Line
  • It hasn't been resolved yet. I believe it may be the GEM (generic electronic module); however, my mechanic said it is easier to diagnose and repair when the module completely fails so they don't have to go through the hassle of ruling everything else out before diagnosing GEM failure, which I guess is the only way. I don't believe it will kill the battery because the lights go out after about 10 minutes - the same length as the accessory delay, which no longer works in mine - probably because of this bad module. I've got the original battery in my 2002 so I don't think it's being affected. I'll keep this updated if I learn anything more. For now, I just deal with it and try to ignore it - although people are CONSTANTLY doing a good deed and telling me my dome lights are on :)
  • I know, I have a feeling I am going to be hearing a lot of the same thing from people about the dome light!

    What other things does the GEM control so that I can be on the lookout for anything else that may fail in the future? I imagine it would be pretty much all of the electronic functions in the dash, right? :confuse:
  • I've got a 2003 Mountaineer with "the crack" runs vertically left of the mercury emblem top to bottom of trim, just appeared one morning.
  • About a week ago my airbag light came on. It was intermittent, sometimes steady, sometimes flashing, sometimes off - I was going to get it checked but then my ABS light came on AND my battery light came on. My battery gauge read that the voltage was maxed out - the needle was above the "H" - at the same time, my radio stopped working, my directional/temperature indicator stopped working, my lights got very bright, and my system check indicator started displaying "Check Charging System" - I got the car home and parked it in the garage. I could see no obvious problems under the hood, no broken or corroded wires, no loose grounds, nothing... then this morning I went to unlock the car and my auto-unlock won't work, and my on-door code unlock won't work.... so now my car is locked shut so I can't even pop the hood, and it's stuck in my garage. ANY IDEAS ANYONE??? Please help, my husband is gone TDY and I start college on Monday and have no money. :cry:
  • nrivasnrivas Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. A couple days ago a LARGE crack suddenly appeared on the liftgate just to the left where you would open it! I've seen other complaintes on here inregards to the same issue. Has anyone had any success in getting this issue resolved??? :(
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