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Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I haven't looked at residuals in a while but 43% sounds about right. I think that is what I was quoted a couple of months ago.

    That is kind of the catch 22 of buying or leasing a vehicle that is heavy with incentives. Everyone is buying the vehicle for less money so it has an impact on the value down the road. There is no free lunch.

    The low residual on a lease was enough of a factor for me that I decided against getting the Explorer.
  • cubescubes Posts: 29
    We leased a Mountaineer AWD several months ago and I believe the RV was 45% at that time. Zman has it right when he said "there's no free lunch", but keep in mind that the MF was nearly zero. The interest rate was @ .25% so you need to look at both factors in reaching your own decision. RV is only part of the equation. My cap cost was also under invoice which didn't hurt. Now if I could only have gotten the above terms AND the current rebate, I'd really be happy.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Cubes is right. I also looked at the Mountaineer and the residual was 45%. So the Mountaineer may be a better deal.

    I probably should have clarified my viewpoint a little bit better. The reason I did not think the Explorer was a deal at 43% residual was because the payment would have been more than it would have been three months earlier when there were no incentives available. In a two/three month span the residual I was quoted went from 50% to 43% for three years. For a $37,000 Limited that is a reduction in residual value of $2600. So even with a $2000 incentive, I would have been out an additional $600. The interest rate stayed about the same over that period.

    It may have an emotional decision more than anything, but I was just a little disappointed that the payment would have been higher than it was previously. If I get an Explorer I will probably wait until fall when the residuals should be higher again for the 2003's.
  • In my '02 Mountaineer, when one rear or front window is open, I get that pulsating wind pressure wave inside that is very uncomfortable. Only way to get it to lessen is to open another window and often that's not the experience I was looking for.

    Anyone have a suggestion for mitigating the problem?: or is there an add-on that might work? I seem to remember some rather awful looking bent chrome panels with an array of punched holes that affixed to the leading edge of windows 30-40 yrs ago; but maybe there's some better technology out there now. Or is it a "just live with it" deal. In past cars, cracking the moonroof seemed to solve it, but no moonroof on this one.

    Any help appreciated.
  • My 2002 Explorer XLT doesn't seem to have this problem when one or both front windows are open at higher speeds, but it definitely has this effect when a rear window is open. [The Toyota Sequoia (for example) is similar]. It's my understanding that this phenomon is largely due to the manufacturers' efforts to create vehicles with better sealing and air-tightness at freeway speeds, thus providing a more quiet ride with less road noise at higher speeds, when the windows are usually shut. The down-side is that when certain windows are opened at higher speeds, pressure waves may uncomfortably build-up and oscillate within the cabin, creating the problem you describe. With vehicles like the Sequoia, which have an electronically controlled tailgate window, this problem is easily solved by cracking the tailgate window enough to allow the wind pressure to subside as a result of rear venting. With Explorers and Mountaineers, one solution might be to ride with the rear hatch WINDOW fully swung up and open, but this may risk the rear hatch window being severely jarred or slammed shut if the vehicle encounters big bumps at higher speeds, possibly resulting in shattering or other damage to the rear hatch window. Ideally, Ford should redesign the rear hatch window such that it could be raised or lowered electronically, like the Sequoia. At lower speeds, I don't think much is risked by leaving the rear window hatch up, but I would do so with caution.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    my 2000 Intrepid and 2000 Sable...when the rear windows are down, I feel like I am in a James Bond wind torture tunnel...this solution worked for me, and I like it, may not work for you...now I just lower the right rear window about two inches, and I tilt my sunroof up about an inch or two...the ventilation effect and breeze are phenomenal, but papers and such do not blow around...for me, it solved the problem, and I found the airflow was much better than just tilting the sunroof, which I was doing before, thinking it would draw air thru the dash vents...
  • lrmet2lrmet2 Posts: 10
    Any Mountaineer owners notice a contant wind noise from the front (wind shield wipers?) when driving highway speeds? Any solutions anyone knows about?

    I also noticed the pulsating pedals phenomenon.
    Are there any canadian owners that read this? There was an interesting posting on the Pathfinder section about how much you can save buying from canada instead of US.

    2002 Mountaineer V8
  • hungry2hungry2 Posts: 11
    Hi, I have seen some posts about squeaks and sway bar bushings. I do not know much about suspensions but I do know that my 02 Mountaineer with about 9K miles has developed a noise when we go over "bouncier" patches in the road. It sound like old springs. It sounds like my Dad's OLD suburban used to sound when it went over bumps and probably needed new shocks. This noise seemed to get worse when we entered a warm spell this winter. It is hard to tell if it is more in the front or the rear. Could this be the bushings (whatever they are)? SHould they be replaced or lubed? Is it okay to ignore it for a couple months until and oil change and should they automatically lube this part during an oil change? Sorry for so many questions but we are not big do it yourselfers on our cars. Thanks!
  • My suggestion would be to have the front swaybar bushings replaced rather than just "lubed". After all, there's a TSB on this issue, and your vehicle is under warranty.
  • rysterryster Posts: 471
    Hi!

    45% after 36 months is pretty optimistic. If you can get into a lease with such a high residual, you will be better off as your lease payments will be slightly lower. 35-40% is probably more true-to-life. There are a ton of these vehicles on the used market (coming off leases, trades, etc.) and the numerous incentives are just killing their values. The overly sensationalized tire and rollover issues didn't help either.

    For example, I financed my '00 Explorer (new) 16 months ago. MSRP was $30K. Current value is approximately $15K. After 16 months, it's at 50%. My parents leased a '00 Mountaineer 22 months ago. The current value of that truck ($17K) is less than the optional buy-out 14 months down the road when the lease ends. Ford will probably make them a sweet deal to try and entice them to buy it at the end (it won't matter...given the problems they are having with it they are looking forward to giving it back). The same happened at the end of the lease on their '97 Explorer. Ford dropped the price of the buy-out almost $2K to get them to buy the vehicle. Sometimes they wish they had; that '97 was an absolute gem.
  • cubescubes Posts: 29
    Ryster, I checked my lease contract for our 2002 AWD Mountaineer and it is dead on at 45%. The two main things you want when leasing are:
    1) Highest possible residual value
    2) Lowest possible money factor, ie interest rate.
    Actually there is a third item, which is the lowest possible selling price which becomes your capitalized cost and transaction starting point.

    Personally, I could care less if the vehicle I'm leasing will be worth half as much as the contract RV, since I'm not looking at buying it out. Unless of course, by some sort of financial miracle it's worth is half again as much as the RV (fat chance). If that were to happen you buy the vehicle for RV and sell it on the open market for a profit.

    The point being is a manufacturer can set a RV anywhere they want, within reason, to move vehicles. They may also play with the Money Factor as well. They may take a hit at lease end, but there are other places in the transaction that they make on. I don't think you can look at 'real world' values at lease inception because you really don't know what the real world will look like in 3-4 years. The Explorer/Firestone situation is a perfect example.

    As always, YMMV
    Nick
  • rysterryster Posts: 471
    I was merely pointing out that if you look at real-world values of Explorers/Mountaineers after 36 months, you will see that 35-40% is a closer number. If a financial institution sets a higher residual with lower than average money factor, the consumer wins. 45% is a good deal on a Mountaineer.

    It is very important to look at real-world values when getting into a lease. The last thing you want to do is get stuck in a lease with a residual value that is artificially low. You would end up paying way too much to "borrow" the car over the term of the lease.

    Leases are not the bargain they used to be. Financial institutions set their residuals way too high during the leasing boom, and the market became flooded with 2 and 3 year old used cars thus reducing the market values of the cars. While the residuals being used currently are more reflective of market conditions, they are not as high as they used to be. There are still some good lease deals out there, but the cars they used to be best for (BMW, Lexus, Cadillac, etc.) now require significant cap. cost reductions/down payments. By the time you come up with a $3-$5K down payment, it is much more cost effective to finance the vehicle.

    Ultimately, though, it is whatever best suits the buyer. With the number of SUV's being leased and sold in the US, the depreciation is only going to increase as more and more hit the secondary market. When the economy improves, and manufacturers put a hold on huge incentives and special financing, the residuals will improve. For now, though, they are going to drop like rocks.
  • As discussed earlier in this forum, Ford is making several mid-year changes to the Explorer. These new versions will still be sold as MY2002 vehicles and should be available on the lot this month.

    For those of you in the market for an Explorer, here is a list of the changes per the new Ford ordering guide:

    New Standard equipment on XLT:
    1) Fog Lamps
    2) Black leather wrapped steering wheel
    3) Electrochromatic mirror
    4) Low back bucket seats with adjustable head rests (standard on XLS too)

    In addition, there is the new optional XLT Sport Group package that was discussed earlier in this forum.

    Other mid-year changes:
    1) Color keyed running boards on Eddie Bauer and Limited
    2) New colors (Aspen green replaces Dark Highland Green, True Blue replaces Deep Wedgewood Blue and Silver Birch replaces Silver Frost)
    3) Easy entry/exit driver seat on Eddie Bauer and Limited is programmed to move 1-2 inches for easier entry and exit from the vehicle
    4) AdvanceTrac enhanced stability control system available with 4.6L V8
    5) Moonroof and auxiliary climate control can now be ordered together and will include a new medium overhead console.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Posts: 338
    I put my Windstar in for some very minor work prior to going out of the 3/36 warranty and I was given a 2002 XLT as a loaner. Not bad but I did notice a rattle in the dash (like a lose bolt) and the "old spring" sound from the rear sway bar bushing as has been noted by several persons. It has a sunroof that is a little lose when open. The rear sensor system in nice as in the leather. Overall, not bad but not as good as I would expect from a vehicle with only 12K on it. However, as a loaner I am sure it has had a rough time of it. Do not get me wrong, I am a Ford fan and if this was mine these little irritants would have been fixed long ago.
  • gregb882gregb882 Posts: 75
    A number of you in this thread (as well as other threads) have talked about a rattle in your dash which you had repaired. My 2002 XLT with 10,500 miles has developed this rattle and I'd like to know if anyone was told by the dealer what they actually had to do to fix it. This may help me expedite repairs of mine. The front bushing squeak has also developed but I know what to tell them on that thanks to your posts. Overall, I'm very happy with my first Explorer. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • mrankellmrankell Posts: 21
    I am wondering about what tire pressure to use in my 2002 Mountaineer with 245 70R 16 Goodyear LS tires. The label calls for 30lbs. in the front and 35lbs. in the rear. Since I normally do not carry any heavy loads, could I use 35 all the way around. Has anyone experimented with different pressures.

    regards,

    m. rankell
  • I saw an XLT Sport on a dealers lot over the weekend. It caught my eye because of the different wheels. It was wearing 17" BF Goodwrich tires. Wheels looked similar to what come on the F150 FX4 package. The lower cladding was actually painted gray instead of the that cheap looking plastic they use on the XLT. It had fog lights just like the ones on EB & Limited. It was painted True Blue.
  • I own a 2002 4WD, V8 XLT with towing package and Michelin tires, and I usually run without any significant loads. That said, I personally see no reason to vary the tire pressures from what is recommended by Ford, since my vehicle rides and handles quite well as is.
  • cramirezcramirez Posts: 4
    I put 18" American wheels on my Explorer with toyo proxes st 255/55/18 I love them. The sidewall isn't too low so I don't have to worry about potholes.
  • a36a36 Posts: 10
    I have read passing references to a rattle sound
    or noise from the "front end" of others on this
    site. I have had this for some time and the day
    that the dealer had the car to find it was the one day is snowed in NE Texas. Not much luck in
    finding such a problem when the roads are wet. It
    is not a loud noise, but persistent, on uneven
    pavement. The sign off by the dealer said that
    the front suspension had been checked and no problems were found.

    I have been under the car while another person
    rocks the steering wheel from side to side so that a knocking sound results. You can feel the
    "knock" in the rack and pinion steering box. It
    is most prominent in the pinion shaft housing.

    This was not a day one problem, but developed over time. Have any others had this problem and had it corrected? If so, I would like to know what to tell the dealer to look for.
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