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Acura Integra (GS-R & Type R)

mfarmer2mfarmer2 Posts: 67
edited March 5 in Acura
Is the Type r worth the extra 4 grand? Thanks for any information.

Mary
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Comments

  • You can buy a new GSR for 19 and change, less than $20K. The Type R is $25K firm. The Type R is a different car than the GSR from the factory, but a GSR can be made competitive for not a lot of money. I've driven both. I have a 99 GSR with intake, header, springs, and a sway bar and it's pretty close. The Type R doesn't squeak as much and the seat is more comfy. I guess you could look at the Type R as a factory hot rod.

    Type R's depreciate very slowly, as do most Integras. If you don't plan on changing the car and you want a street legal racecar, buy the Type R. If you are more into luxury and practicality, go for the GSR. The only bad thing about the Type R is you are going to attract a lot of unwanted attention from anything from street racers to car thieves.
  • sshus924sshus924 Posts: 2
    Drove the I 2000 and loved it. Exceptional handling and fun to drive. The 8900 revs just makes it happen. I've drive Porches on the track with the CA club and think the I 2000 comes awfully close and in some respects a bit better. Better weight balance (50/50) as the 911 Porsche with its rear St bias, etc. Anyone have any comment on the two cars??
  • sshus924sshus924 Posts: 2
    Drove the I 2000 and loved it. Exceptional handling and fun to drive. The 8900 revs just makes it happen. I've drive Porsches on the track with the PCA club and think the S 2000 comes awfully close and in some respects a bit better. Better weight balance (50/50) as the 911 Porsche with its rear St bias, etc. Anyone have any comment on the two cars??
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    did you test drive? The S2000? Of course that 's a better car than the Type-R because it's RWD, has 45 more ponnies and more torque. With some R compound tires the S2000 is a formiddable opponent on the track.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • ashus55ashus55 Posts: 1
    The S2000 is a nice car, with rear drive and convertible. The TypeR is front drive coupe and an easy $7-9K less money...
  • revhappyrevhappy Posts: 1
    I own a Type R and have test driven a GSR. The difference is huge. Type R's handing is way better than a GSR. Plus, Typer R has more power as you know. And R is lighter than GSR. In addition, the shifter, the rims, brakes, and the steering wheel are better on the R. There is not much you can do to further improve a R. It is already highly tuned from the factory. But one thing I don't like the R is that it is very noisy. But if you like to hear its engine sound, especially when revving it to 7k or higher range, you would love the R. Its engine sound makes you feel like you are racing. I have also test driven other cars such as Celica GTS, Mitsubshi Eclipse GT, and Mustang GT. I still love the R. It is an awesome car. But I admit that Mustang GT goes faster but its handling is not as good. For insane driving experience, get the R. For comfort and convenience, get the GSR.
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    I own a '99 GSR and my brother owns a '98 Type-R. I 've driven his ITR probably 30 times and have also auto-x raced with it. BUT, I have put in about $900 worth of "modest" suspension mods in my car and now it's about as good in auto-x racing as my brother's ITR. He still has an edge because of the ITR's limited Slip differential though which can also be installed in a GSR. With the right suspension mods (like coilovers) a GSR can outhandle a Type-R. Not to contradict you, but the Type-R can be made to handle better and be faster. It's not fully optimized at the factory. There are many aftermarket parts that can make the ITR better. My friend who also owns a '98 ITR put in Neuspeed Sports springs that lowered the car another 1.3". These springs also have higher spring rates compared to the stock springs. He races in CSP (Street Prepared class in SOLO II auto-x) and his times are better than all the stock Type-Rs that race in GS. His car outhandles stock ITRs. Anyway there 's no question the ITR is a better car than the GSR. I also like its engine sound. My GSR sounds almost identical to the ITR now since I installed a Cold Air Intake. If I had to do it all over again, I 'd get the Type-R over the GSR but when I bought mine in '99, there was no ITR. They announced its return for '00 2 weeks after I bought the GSR! I was pulling my hair out :(
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • shteveyshtevey Posts: 4
    Sorry to interupt with a simpler question - I've inherited a '93 gs-r with about 280,000 kms on it. What are the best things to do in order to restore it's performance and fuel economy?
  • As my endless search continues, I just came across a 95 Integra GSR. White, black cloth, nice little car. Its got 92K miles on it, and they guy will take 8500 for it. Edmunds has private market at 8300 or so for this car. I thought this was an ok deal, since these cars don't seem to be too common. Do you think this is a fair price or a good deal, or....? Also, how is this car's insurance? DO you all find it higher that average? Any problem areas? Anything else to look at when considering this car?
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    Is kinda high. The motor will not be like new again and I doubt you 'll ever get the performance it had when it was newer. 175k mi. is not low miles. All you can do is a tune up, replace all the fluids (radiator, oil, transmission fluid, if it's a 5-sp, put in Honda Manual trannsm. fluid or MTF). Use Honda/Acura parts! Also change the timing belt (that's about $300-400). Good luck
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • nightgsrnightgsr Posts: 4
    Hey, Only1Harry, in one of your postings you mentioned coil covers and limited slip differential. How can both of these help with speed, are both expensive, and how hard are they to install?
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    on what car? You need to get good adjustable shocks with coilover springs. Koni yellows are about $500 and Ground Control coilover springs that allow you to adjust the height of the car are about $330. Labor is around $150-250 depending on the shop and area you live in. Limited Slip Dif. is around $750 and labor for that will run you around $300-400 because the tranny has to come off. The LSD will improve handling a lot as well as better acceleration from a stop. But your 're talking a couple of thousand $$ for all these. I 'd recommend just getting the coilovers with good shocks and a 22mm rear sway bar and your car will be transformed and hanlde as good as a Type-R and better.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • tenbonestenbones Posts: 4
    Hello all

    I've got a 01 integra gs-r...a couple of days ago i decided to test the vtec by reving up to like 7000 rpm...at about 6500 rpm the brake light warning came on for about 2 seconds ..the hand brake was not on. After that the warning light shut off. Checked everything. oil pressure seems fine. Should i have the dealer look at it for 30 bucks ..or should i avoid getting close to the redline..If anyone has had this problem please let me know

    Thanks.
  • rmtraderrmtrader Posts: 30
    Definitely get the dealer to look at this one. These cars love the redline are meant to spend a lot of time 'up there.'
  • glbraunglbraun Posts: 2
    I just got a new 01 Integra GSR about 3 weeks ago and I love it. I have an old 90 integra LS and it's running great, with over 240,000 miles on it. These cars last for ever and it still runs very quick. Any suggestions for simple mods that can be done for the GSR to give it a boost in power? And is there a break in period for the car, or should I drive it like normally would? Should I wait a few hundred miles before red lining it?
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Keep it under 4k rpm for the first 1000 mi and vary speed (not too much highway driving for long periods of time). As far as mods, the single best bang for the buck is an AEM cold air intake. Make sure you get the bypass valve to prevent hydrolock (water in the engine). You can find the best price at groupbuycenter.com. The coximport guys are great (http://www.groupbuycenter.com/buy.asp?row_id=3066) I have ordered all my suspension stuff from them as well as my intake and bypass valve. You are looking at 20 hp at the wheels with the intake. No complaints here :)
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    I got 12.4hp at the wheels (about 14bhp) with the AEM Cold Air Intake. The biggest gain I 've seen was about 15whp on a GSR. That is a LOT though for $185 which is what I paid (without the bypass valve, it wasn't out then). It's about 10% increase in power at the wheels.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    Do NOT redline for about 1,000mi and don't go into VTEC which starts at 6,000 RPM until you have at least 750mi. on it. If you decide to go into VTEC, go slow. First go like 6200-6500. Then next time go up to 6700 and then maybe 7K RPM. Do it gradually.
    The main thing is vary the engine speeds (RPMs) a lot the first 1K mi. The first 500mi. are very crucial and must vary RPMs very frequently. The best way to do that and seat the rings properly is the way Honda engineer & racer Ken Woods wrote to me in an e-mail about 3yrs ago:
    Put the car in 4th gear and go from 30mph up to 60-65mph. Then coast down to 30mph again and then slowly back to up 60-65mph all the time being in 4th gear. He said to do this at least 20 times in a row and in the first 250mi (which I did but make sure you have your emergency lights on! I almost got rear ended on the highway).
    One other advice: always use HONDA oil filters (same as Civic's for all Integras) and change the oil around 750mi. Then change it again 1500 mi. later, then every 3K mi. Honda oil filters are superior to most other filters.
    Good luck with your GSR and oh, never go into VTEC unless the engine is fully warmed up!
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Sorry guys, I had something else on my mind. Of course it is between 10-15 whp. Sorry about the false info : ).
  • glbraunglbraun Posts: 2
    Hey thanks to everyone for all your advice on the break in period for my new GSR. And thanks for the advice on the mods for the car. One other question, with putting on a cold air intake, would that have any affect on the factory warranty with the car, since it is bran new?
  • hoanvthoanvt Posts: 8
    I thought that vtec kicks in at 4400 instead of 6000 rpm... I'm confused, which one is it? Would it be noticable when the vtec comes on? Or do you only experience gradual speed build up? Thanks!
  • Great time to buy new 2001 Integra

    GS-R TMV $19,064
    Type-R TMV $20,853

    Prices below trade-in value on Kelly Blue Book for used 2000 models.
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    like the dealers will sell you a Type-R for $20K.. hehe fat chance! Try finding one, and if you do, they 'll want sticker for it, not a penny less.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • I have a 90 integra w 164000 miles. It has been hesitating lately when the engine is cold or hot. I took it to the dealer and had the following done: replaced all spark plug wires, timing belt adjusted, an engine and fuel system flush plus the service station did all kinds of diagnostics like check the fuel system pressure etc - everything checked out - distributor looks good. They don't know what else to do but run the car till it gets worse to "narrow down the problem". The hesitation feels like when you run the A/C - it saps power. Car is great still on the original clutch and distributor among others. I don't mind spending to fix. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?? Thanks
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    hesitate? Only from a complete stop? certain RPMs? throughout the whole REV band? certain gears? under Full Throttle only?, etc. If it's auto, and they did extensive testing and diags, then it could be the tranny. Did you check the ATF level? or is it a 5-sp? Could be electrical too which is hard to troubleshoot, like voltage regulator, and other stuff.
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • I have a manual. hesitates when engine is warm or cold, usually between 2500-4000 RPM, all gears even when cruising at 80 down the highway the engine drags slightly. The mechanics at Acura dealership performed "diagnostics" testing and apparently nothing unusual detected. But this isn't my imagination! One thing I noticed though and I will try again ...when the gas tank was nearly empty it seemed to get better----less hesitation. Is that the fuel line? Any reasonable explanation for that one??
  • himilerhimiler Posts: 1,209
    Did they replace the fuel filter when they flushed the system?
  • only1harryonly1harry NYPosts: 1,140
    the fuel pump..
    '99 Integra GSR
    '06 Civic LX coupe
    '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
    '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
  • got a 97 GSR with about 55k miles on it, great car, except recently the power steering has been squeking, like a mild squeeking noise. Had a few people look at it and they say it's not the power steering belt. Power steering fluid is at a normal level.
    I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet because it doesn't appear to be serous, wondering if anyone had similar problems.
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