2014 Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

pennies2honda

Hey Brian et al -

I live in Los Angeles and looking to buy this week. Does this look like the best deal I can get for a 2014 Honda CRV LX 2WD in November? I know that dealers are probably looking to get rid of their 2014 models, but it's also the top of the month. How does this breakdown look? Is there anything I should be asking, but forgot? Thanks, pp

Selling Price-$20,691 (Includes Dealer added accessory: Cargo Tray, Splash Guards, Wheel Locks)
Documentation Fee-$80
License-$206
AVRS $29
Tire fee/tax-$8.75
Tax (based on 91502 zip) - $1,862.39
Total OTD-$22,877.14

brian125

pennies2honda

I say make the deal as long as the 830 dollar dest/ charge was included in the 20,691.

dealers throwing in 200 dollars worth of free Accessories . This puts your total sale price at 2k below dealers invoice.

End of the month should net you better results but why lose out on this model and color for a couple of hundred.

kyfdx

Congrats! Thanks for reporting in.

aeron1

@sparsecandy, definitely go with the Honda. The 2015 CRV is the way to go in my opinion since you are thinking long term. It represents the latest and greatest from Honda. The 2015 has a new engine and transmission which translates into improved performance and fuel economy. The MPGs are only slightly better than the 2014 model, but if you plan on owning for 10 years that savings at the pump will add up over time. The higher the gas prices, the more the savings. The more miles you drive, the more the savings. The truecar.com target price is a good starting point. A high volume dealer should be able to beat that price, especially as their 2015 inventory increases over the next few months. A 2014 EX-L and a 2015 EX are probably going for close to the same money. If all you really want is the AWD then I think the 15 EX makes even more sense for you.

yhr707

Quick question.
Awhile back, I used truecar to get pricing for the crv and used my name and email address for that site. I received emails from multiple dealers but only a few were internet sales managers. Should I deal directly with the internet sales managers or stick with the dealers that have already contacted me?

stever

Internet sales managers generally cut to the chase faster and play fewer games.

But that's a big generalization. Some dealers just tell a salesperson that they are the internet person for the day and rotate it (just another variation of the "up" system).

If you already have a contact with a dealer, I'd just reply to that person, unless they are playing hide the ball and aren't being particularly helpful with numbers.

stever

For 2015 shoppers, we've opened the 2015 Prices Paid link here.

rlap

Could someone with experience please tolerate this really newbie/stupid question....

I'm about to go purchase my first "new" car. Actually the first car I've ever purchased on my own. My grandfather purchased my current used car. I have no prior experience in this, and no one to turn to for help.

What do I do to start negotiating?

I intend to get a CR-V. I've checked one out at the dealer, he talked to me, quoted me a price, I said OK let me think about it and left.

How exactly do I start the negotiation?

Sales man/woman comes over, asks me can I help you.
I say I'm interested in a CR-V.
They say ok, which kind. I say I would like an LX.
Yada Yada Yada...

What do I do.

I seriously have no one to ask for help/advise.

P.S. I intend to pay in full, no financing or anything like that.

brian125

What year? what model do you want.? What state are you looking to buy in?

karhill1

The first thing to do when buying a new vehicle is to establish a price goal. Research and math.

First, to to Edmunds and obtain the MSRP and Invoice for the vehicle you want to buy.

Go to Edmunds incentives and determine (1) customer incentives, (2) dealer incentives from manufacturer, and (3) holdback.

Reduce the invoice price by all available incentives. For example, if the MSRP is $25,000, Invoice $23,000, Incentives $1,000, and holdback 2 percent of MSRP, compute a starting point as follows: $23,000 - $1,000 - $500 (2% of $25,000) = $21,500 is the pricing goal starting point.

Expect to pay a bit more than $21,500 to allow for dealer profit, say 3-5 percent. Adding 3 percent results in a price goal of around $22,200 or so.

Use this amount as a baseline to judge any dealer offers. If, for example, the dealer offered $24,000 you would know this amount has a lot of negotiation room. On the other hand, if the dealer offered $23,000 you know this is close to a really good deal.

Also research your credit score. Go to Credit Karma for a reasonable free estimate. The dealer must, if you ask, disclose your actual score if they run a credit check.

After estimating your credit score, search the internet for available interest rates for your score.

Use one of the on line payment calculators to learn the expected monthly payment for your pricing goal and your down payment (zero is possible with a good credit score) and interest rate.

Knowing your estimated payment will prevent any mischief by the dealer. For example, if you compute a monthly payment of $300 and you reach price agreement with the dealer and the dealer comes back with a price of $400, you know something is amiss.

It is often wise to bring someone along with you, dealers hate co-pilots. Also, do not be afraid to use your best negotiation tool, your feet. Never be afraid to walk away. The dealer needs you.

Bring a calculator and any research documents. Dealers are often less likely to exhibit mischief if they sense the customer is knowledgeable. Remember, you are in charge of the process not the dealer.

While it is OK to let the dealer offer you an interest rate, they can often beat the rate you can obtain otherwise, say NO to anything offered in the F&I room. Things like extended warranty, GAP, paint protection are always overpriced at the dealership and always available later at a lower cost.

Finally, recognize the dealer or document fee is not a fee of any kind. It it not required by law nor by the manufacturer. It is simply dealer profit. Add this amount to the price you negotiate to arrive at the real price. Sometimes dealers print this fee on the sales contract to lend a false degree of legitimacy to the fee. Once again, this fee is not required and you are not required to pay it. The dealer may say you are required to pay it, if so tell the dealer to reduce the price or increase the trade value to compensate for the fee. The reason they will say you have to pay it is because it is they who have to show every buyer paid it. If they do not they run the risk of being sued. DO NOT PAY THIS FEE without compensating for it elsewhere in the deal.

If, at any time during the process, things seem wrong walk away. Better to take a bit of time to contemplate then to act too quickly and make a huge mistake.

Buying a vehicle is simple if the research is complete. A good deal is always accomplished when the majority of work is done prior to visiting a dealer.

After you have done your research, send a email request to as many dealers as you can. Do not be afraid to tell them your price goal. Some dealers will ask you to visit and not give you a quote. Ignore them, they will be problematic. Some will provide a quote. Select the best one and visit to finalize the deal. If things go wrong, leave an visit the next dealer.

Example, last year we bought a new Subaru. Visited a dealer. Price went bad when this dealer tried to low ball the trade. Left and visited the next dealer. On that day, we saved $1,500 between these dealers for the exact same vehicle. The same thing happened this summer, went to one Honda dealer who also low balled the trade. Next day visited a different Honda dealer, saved nearly $2,000 for the same vehicle. Always remember, there is another dealer who wants to sell you a vehicle. The dealer knows this as well, so always use this to your advantage.

In the end, if your price computations are accurate, you will find a dealer willing to sell at or close to your price objective.

brian125

karhill1

Excellent post. I enjoyed reading thru it............ very informative especially for newbie's here. .

stever

Yeah - that's a classic @karhill1.

@rlap, you can always call or chat with Edmunds.com free using the Live Help link up top. Comes in handy at the dealer when you need to bounce your deal off someone.

spinrut

just started searching in DC/MD/VA area for 2014 CRV EX-L with Nav.

Prices are seemingly all over the place ranging from a little over 25k right on up to 1k off MSRP. Lots of call/come in to get pricing vs offering up legitimate quotes, so it's a bit of a pain.

Anyone buy a CRV EX-L with Nav in DMV area recently and are willing to share where and how much they got? It seems the 1500-2500 off MSRP is readily available at most of the dealers and they want to move the 14s sitting around collecting dust with the 15s on the lot now too

karhill1's comments were really useful too, may need to rethink my price points now.

brian125

The target price in your buying area should be closer to 2k below dealers invoice price. Not MSRP price.

spinrut

so based on edmunds' true market value page, I'm reading invoice to be $28,738 with a dest of $830. So target for 2k off the invoice as my target point? If I'm seeing 3k below invoice, destination included, does it sound too good to be true?

bonag01

Brian & all-
I've been reading past posts to this forum and this single female has found it very helpful in navigating the new car sales process. I haven't purchased since I bought my '02 Honda, so thank you for all the tips.

I've been calling around to dealerships in the D/FW area and here are the deals I've got thus far for a '14 EX-L CRV with Nav. Here is the best deal that I've received and I wanted to know if it is a good deal.

$28,498
-$750 dealer cash for financing via AHF
-$850 dealer discount
-----
$26,898
+125 doc fee +800 worth of add ons (tint, cargo tray, locks, pin stripe, etc--I only care about tray and tint)+TTL would get me to $29,300 Out the Door Pricing from this dealership

It is right at the top of what I believe my target price should be of $26,198-$26,898. Should I negotiate more? thanks for any tips or hints.

brian125

spinrut said:

so based on edmunds' true market value page, I'm reading invoice to be $28,738 with a dest of $830. So target for 2k off the invoice as my target point? If I'm seeing 3k below invoice, destination included, does it sound too good to be true?

3k below on a 2014 model is a very good price. It is possible to get a deal that low . Not many will thou.

Most buyers right now are in a 2000 below to 2500 range price.

brian125

bonag01 said:

Brian & all-
I've been reading past posts to this forum and this single female has found it very helpful in navigating the new car sales process. I haven't purchased since I bought my '02 Honda, so thank you for all the tips.

I've been calling around to dealerships in the D/FW area and here are the deals I've got thus far for a '14 EX-L CRV with Nav. Here is the best deal that I've received and I wanted to know if it is a good deal.

$28,498
-$750 dealer cash for financing via AHF
-$850 dealer discount
-----
$26,898
+125 doc fee +800 worth of add ons (tint, cargo tray, locks, pin stripe, etc--I only care about tray and tint)+TTL would get me to $29,300 Out the Door Pricing from this dealership

It is right at the top of what I believe my target price should be of $26,198-$26,898. Should I negotiate more? thanks for any tips or hints.

Keep on negotiating. Stand firm on 2k below dealers invoice price and you buy immediately from whom ever meets your price. . You want to try and get another 300 to 500 dollars off the sale price of the above deal. Then negotiate hard to cut the over- priced accessories package of 800 dollars in half.

That's all its worth. Let dealer know if there not going to reduce this package your walking on the deal.

2014- exl , w/ Nav ,Fwd model invoice price with dest charge of 830= 28,398

This dealer is getting to his 1500 below number by a finance bonus from the Honda corp and possibly some hidden incentives to sell this 14' model off there lot. Dealer hold-back on your model is about 600 to 700 dollars.

sparsecandy

Thank you to everyone who gave advice. I have committed to the 2015 Honda CR-V EX AWD.

I sent my e-mails out earlier today and best deal so far is $27,000 OTD. I don't have a breakdown yet, but sales tax is 7.25%, which works out to $1812.50 if the purchase price was $25,000, leaving $187.50 for the rest of the fees. Factory invoice is $25,932 on TrueCar so I feel like this is pretty good. 1.99% financing on the part I'm not paying straight out.

What do you think? Next closest price so far has been $1,200 higher. Dealer doesn't know it yet, but I also have a trade in we will negotiate separately. I'm not in a rush but at the same time winter is pretty much here - it would be nice to have that AWD and sit high when it snows. How much better do you think the deals are in December?

And one more time - THANK YOU all, so much, for all the advice and posting your experiences. I came into this completely blind, thinking you bought a car by just going to the dealer and arguing a little. The e-mailing has been relatively painless (other than dealers not being able to read or deliberately ignoring straight-forward questions, but better in e-mail than in person.) and so fast. This is an AWESOME resource - I am grateful.

sparsecandy

Also one more question. What accessories, if any, do you find value in? We will be putting in an aftermarket dog separator and weathertech cargo liner for the back, but I was eyeing the cargo liner to try to protect the backs of the seats from dog hair. Thoughts? Would you do full seat covers instead?

Also, thoughts on honda's remote start vs. an after-market one? Any other totally awesome you have to get this accessories I am missing?

Thanks!

stever

Thanks for the kind words for your fellow forum members @sparsecandy!

Hard to say about December deals, but the CR-V is going gangbusters and I don't know why the dealers wouldn't keep making good deals on them. Sounds like there's plenty of production capacity.

If there's a CarMax near you, you can get use their number to compare your trade-in offer. You can also use the Appraise Your Car link below and get a value.

About options, just get what you want. To quote a retired car salesman/forum member here, "90% of the higher priced options on all cars never increase the Actual Cash Value (ACV) of the car at trade-in time."

Dog hair protection is a good idea, but you may find, depending on what kind of doggie you have, that the hair will find its way into the car even if you never haul mutts around. Occupational hazard kind of thing.

I don't like the idea of a big box store (or even a stereo shop) cutting into my wiring or adding power accessories to a new car. So I'd go with the Honda brand and make sure the dealer will fix it under warranty, at least initially.

aeron1

@sparsecandy, That seems like a good deal to me assuming everything looks good when you get a price break down, but I'll let the more experienced contributors chime in. @kcrv2015 got a really similar deal. By the way it looks like a new thread was started specifically for the 2015 so you might want to check that too. You may be able to haggle it down a few hundred bucks, it's hard to tell, but the salesman has to eat too Maybe you could ask for 4 or 5 oil changes? Good decision on the 2015 EX! Good luck, and let us know the outcome if you can, thanks

laura_v

Hey guys,

I am looking at buying a new 2014 LX in the College Station, TX area. I have bought a used car before, but never a new car, so I don't know all the negotiating tactics that go along with it. The dealership has the CRV listed with a MSRP of $23,950. How much can I negotiate the price down? I don't have the dealer's invoice amount- I have been trying to get by there after hours to look at see. It might be unrealistic, but I would like to walk out the door paying $20,000.

It is getting close to the end of the year, and the dealership I am going to still has a significant amount of 2014's on the lot and little room to stock their 2015's. I don't know if this will allow me to get the price lower than if it was at the beginning of the year.

stever

We have invoice prices - just go to the New Cars link below and drill down to Honda/CR-V/2104 and select Build and Price Your Car.

The invoice won't be on the Monroney sticker anyway so going to the dealer won't help you there.

Some members on here have purchased for $1,500 to $2,000 below invoice. Not sure how the market is over in TX.

Welcome to the forums and keep asking questions. Or click on Live Help from the home page if you'd rather chat or call in "real" time (it's free). And check out the Car Research tab. And check out @karhill1's post above if you missed it.

rlap

@karhill1‌ Thank you for the very informative post.

But... I still need help.
I do not know how to start the price negotiation.

Could someone please explain this at the most basic level. Pretend you're teaching a child, I won't be offended!

I have never ever negotiated a price, or haggled a price. My grandfather purchased my current used car, he's no longer around to help me, and I have no one to ask for help.

My situation:
I have NO trade-in
I will NOT finance - I plan to pay cash (well check, but you catch my drift...)

So this is what happens:

I'm 23 years old.
I drive up to the dealership in my banged up used car.
Salespeople are all seated near the windows waiting for customers...
As soon as I walk in a salesman asks what he can help me with.
I say, I'm interested in a 2015 CR-V
The salesman takes me over to the CR-V and starts talking about what a great vehicle this is.

OK BUT...
I've already seen the CR-V at other dealers. So when he asks me if I want to take it for a test drive, should I say no? Should I even say I've already been to other dealerships??

2nd:
He immediately asks me if I plan to finance.
Should I immediately say NO I plan to pay cash???

Now we go into the back office, and he sits me down. He asks if I plan any trade in. I do NOT plan a trade in. Should I say that.

Now this is what I need help one:
WHEN should I exchange price numbers with the salesman? Immediately???
I am not financing, I am paying in cash, and I have no trade in.

Could someone please explain this at the most basic level. Pretend you're teaching a child, I won't be offended!

I have never ever negotiated a price, or haggled a price. My grandfather purchased my current used car, he's no longer around to help me, and I have no one to ask for help.

My details, in case they are important.

I live in Evanston, Illinois zip code 60201
Plan to get a 2015 CR-V EX front wheel drive - no package. Color unimportant to me (except no white)

Using TrueCar I get a target price of 24900
Invoice price of 24989

I also would not mind a 2014 if I got a good deal.


Secondly....

I have so far only visited two dealerships.
Based on truecar, it says a 2015 CR-V EX Front Wheel drive with no package, my target price should be 24900

When I email a dealer, should I flat out tell them in the email I a price I intend to spend, for instance $24,000 (that being 900 less than the truecar target price) and let them email me back?

----------------------------

I'm not trying to come off as a mentally challenged person, but I am very intimidated by the whole prospect of buying a car and I have never done anything like this.

sparsecandy

Just wanted to close the loop. I posted in the 2015 thread as well, but started here.

2015 Honda CR-V EX AWD.

Car Price 25,300.00
Taxes 1,898.86
doc fee 249.5
plates 33.5
Taxes (7.5%) 1,898.86
Subtotal 27,500.00

Also, they threw in splash guards.

Not the best, but beat invoice so I am happy. I also ended up getting the remote start installed by the dealership. They charged 581 for it, so a little high, but not so high that I walked. And they give me a loaner car so I just drop off and pick up. The next best price offered was 25,800.

stever

@rlap, it sounds like you've test driven a CR-V and you know which model you want. Instead of spending time going to the dealers, send an email around asking for quotes. We have Compare Dealer Prices links on the CR-V "buying" page or you can go the dealer websites and contact them that way. Your goal is to get 3 or more real quotes. You can also get a Price Promise certificate and get a firm price for a particular CR-V that way.

A short while after asking for quotes, you should have some numbers to compare and you can reply to the responsive dealers. At that point you can get to the finer details, like what additional fees they charge. If a dealer won't give you an initial email quote, move on to the next dealer.

What you really want to know is what your out the door cost will be. OTD is "code" for "don't surprise me when I go to pay - I want to know what the final cost is going to be before I sit down and write a check". That OTD price will include all doc fees and your taxes and title fees. Then if the number is more when you go to pay (undisclosed fees, pinstriping, wheel locks, you name it), just get up and leave.

It's okay to tell a salesperson that you've already been to XYZ dealership and taken a test drive. It's okay to say you're paying cash and have no trade. It's okay to tell the dealer that you know what you want and while you're open to suggestions, you are really price shopping at this point. If the dealer won't give you a firm price, either in person or by email, try to cross them off your list.

You can also call or chat with our Live Help team during their hours and get help "in real time" that way. It's okay to call from the dealer cubical and ask us about a price or fee. Contact info is also listed under the Live Help tab up top on most pages here at Edmunds if you don't have access to my link..

Even if you've never bought a car before, you've done plenty of negotiating in your life already (like, I'll clean my room if I can have ice cream for dessert). The key to all this is to remember that it's your money and if at any point you are unsure, you can leave and go home and think about it. There'll be another load of CR-Vs arriving on the lot next week, so unless your beater dies, you can just take your time and find a dealer that you are comfortable dealing with.

firstimeinfi

I am trying to purchase 2014 ex awd in NJ.

Is the price still below 1500-1800?

I looked at paramus nj website and they still have 16 left.

Also, autosport bridgewater has 5 or 6 left.

I will be buying end of November.

Thank you!

99tolife

Posting my deal so it hopefully helps others. I think we could have done better, but we're ok with it since we didn't want to spend days going back and forth. Our trade in was a fair to poor condition 11 year old vehicle, so we did what we could with that.


2014 Honda CR-V LX (FWD)

Bought in Tampa, Florida on 11/16.

Sticker price: $23,950

Invoice price research (picked the lowest I could find):
TrueCar's: $22,748
JDPower: $21,718
Consumer Reports: $21,905


The deal:

Cash Price of Vehicle: $20,873.86
+ Pre-Delivery Fee: $699 (rip off #1 of 3)

===== $21,572.86

(I left this number at the actual price - not the price they gave us considering our trade value or downpayment).


The deal included dealer installed options:
Wheel locks, Cargo Tray, All Season Floor Mats, Splash Guards, and all Windows tinted.


All the misc fees that don't always show up when they're showing you the price of the car:

Sales Tax here is 7% (6% state + 1% local)
Estimate Cost of License Plate Transfer: $95.10 (rip off #2 of 3)
Private Tag Agency Fees $98.00 (rip off #3 of 3)
Doc stamp fees: $49.00
FL Tire fee: $5.00
Battery fee: $1.50
MVWEA: $2.00
Financing fee for the .9% through Honda (ours was $321 over 60 months)

madmark13

It has been reported on Slickdeals that a dealer in Livermore, CA (http://slickdeals.net/f/7330426-4000-off-on-honda-accord-and-crv-2014-models) is offering $4k below MSRP on all 2014 CRV's and Accords. In specific, he mentioned they offered the 2014 LX AWD at $19,995.

Anyone here been able to get similar (or better) pricing to that yet?

stever

If it's on SlickDeals or FatWallet, it must be good. I've spent bundles "saving" money at FatWallet over the years, lol.

madmark13

stever said:

If it's on SlickDeals or FatWallet, it must be good. I've spent bundles "saving" money at FatWallet over the years, lol.

LOL. FW and SD have the tendency to induce you into spending more than you want in buying things you don't need. With that aside, the prices for the Accords and CRV on that thread seem legit. I am trying to get the dealers here (Southwest VA) to match at that price point.

firstimeinfi

emra7 said:

Hello,
We just bought a 2014 Honda CRV EX AWD and my wife and I want to know if we got a good, really good or excellent deal. Invoice price 24,200 includes Destination Fee 850. After Doc fees, taxes and registration Total 25,571. I got approved for 0.9% APR for 60 months. After a 4k Down payemnt, monthly payments are $385. This in in Northern NJ. I did a lot of research when deciding between a RAV4, Forrester or CRV. After we made the decision for the CRV, I spent 3 weeks negotiating with online sales specialists and a fleet manager. When they offered me the 24,200 I preseented the offer to another honda dealership and they couldnt beat it, they could only match it. So we decided to go ahead with this offer. I still have a feeling that I could have gotten it cheaper, so for my sanity, what do you guys think? was it a good purchse?
thanks

Hey, I have a question about the pricing you had with DCH honda.

You said that the invoice price was 24200 with dest fee. and total was 25571.

If the sales tax is 7% how did your total came out to be 25571?

Thanks,

brian125

firstimeinfi ........................ I posted on your wall.......... read my post on DCH Honda.

brian125

Call New Rochelle Honda see if they have a awd ex model on there lot. NY doc fee's are only 75 dollars. Opposed to NJ doc's at 299 to 499

henryn

I just received this email from a local Honda dealer (Houston):

Sorry to bother you while you're cooking turkey,

but Honda just released additional
holiday bonus cash in
the amount of

$500.00!

Good on most 2014 models beginning today
11/26/2014.
If you have received a quote on a 2014 model before 11:AM today,
you can take another $500.00 from the selling price!

Ridgeline, Fit and Crosstour models excluded from the
additional bonus.

Call dealer for details or just come in!

stever

@firstimeinfi, looks like there was a typo and that number should have been $ 25,571. Durn taxes.

fioscableguy

So I'm looking to trade in. 2010 accord and get a crv. These are the 2 offers I got from local stealership what you guys think??


;thanks


2014. 2015

Retail value. 26470. 26720

Savings. 2609. 1972

Adjusted sales price. 23861. 24748

Trade value. 11500. 11500

Destination 830. 830

Sales subtotal 13191. 14078

Tax. 923.37. 985

Doc & tires fee. 376.50. 376.50

Dmv. 311. 311

Trade off. 19084.22. 19084.22

Total 33886.09. 34835.18

brian125

fioscableguy

You need to rework this post for help.

First off your 2010, Accord. Do you know what a fair trade price would be.? What make, model, added options , miles and condition is this vehicle being traded in. We have no clue.? If you sell it private you stand to put 2k plus more towards the new vehicle purchase. Trade in you will lose just that if not more.

What model CRV are you looking to buy? There are different models. Lx, Ex , EXL, EXL w nav, awd, fwd, etc What is the selling price of each vehicle 2014 and 2015 you want to buy ? Is the adjusted prices above the final numbers from dealership or are you still negotiating.

Read thru prior posting to get idea's how to repost your message to us. Then I'd be glad to chime in with some good advice on a target price to buy and sell

kp1234

Hi, got an offer for a 2014 Honda CRV LX, FWD, OTD $22,350.
No accessories (tint, mudguards, pin stripe, all weather floor mats)
State: Florida
Is this a good deal.?
Thanks
KP

brian125

kp1234

break down your deal............ Also need dealers doc fee charge. OTD pricing is a guessing game

what does this mean......No accessories (tint, mudguards, pin stripe, all weather floor mats)

kp1234

@brian125 ... thanks for the reply. I don't remember the exact detail from the quote but this is what I could recollect.


$19800 - Sales price incl dest fee
$1400 - tax
$700 - documentation fee
$450 - TTL


The doc fee is definitely high but I'm not sure how much I could agree them to reduce on that.

Regarding the accessories, I meant that the car that was quoted for me doesn't have any dealer installed accessories. When other members post on this thread, they are mentioning about the dealer installed accessories on the car so I wanted to just mention that this car doesn't have any - not even tint. I live in Florida so I definitely need tint and all weather mats. Thanks!

brian125

kp1234 below is your breakdown

Invoice w dest charge = .....................$22,547 minus sale price 19,800= $2,747 below invoice minus 700 doc fee = $ 2047 below dealers invoice if you buy at this price.

2k to 3k is where you want your deal to fall into for this time of the year.

dmckee1

I live in Northern Virginia, and I have an offer on a 2014 Honda CRV LX, AWD (includes door guards and all weather mats):

MSRP: $25,200
Selling Price: $21,468 (includes dest fee)
Sales Tax: $927
Tags: $62.75
Doc Fee: $499
OTD: $22,956.75

Wondering if this is a good deal or not?

brian125

dmckee1 ,


1752 below dealers invoice.

dmckee1

Thanks Brian -- appreciate the info!

ellisd8353

I was looking for advice on negotiating with the $500 new grad offer from Honda Financial Services on a 2014 CR-V. I have already checked and confirmed that I am eligible, but I am not sure how this is applied in the transaction.

Because it is a finance offer and it is applied after taxes towards the down-payment, is it supposed to be discussed with the Finance Manager after the best original deal is worked out? Or should it be brought up when initially negotiating price with the salesman?

Any help would be appreciated I want to take advantage of the offer, but don't want to loose leverage during the negotiations.

brian125

ellisd8353,

Say nothing until after you and dealer agree on a vehicle price . Your negotiations on the sale price of the car and incentives that apply to you are done in 2 different steps. Your 500 dollar College grad incentive comes from the Honda corp. and not out of the dealers pocket. Make dealer when signing papers add another 500 dollars onto your down payment. If you tell dealer upfront about the 500 grad incentive they will try to work it into your negotiated deal. That you do not want.

ellisd8353

brian125 said:

ellisd8353,

Say nothing until after you and dealer agree on a vehicle price . Your negotiations on the sale price of the car and incentives that apply to you are done in 2 different steps. Your 500 dollar College grad incentive comes from the Honda corp. and not out of the dealers pocket. Make dealer when signing papers add another 500 dollars onto your down payment. If you tell dealer upfront about the 500 grad incentive they will try to work it into your negotiated deal. That you do not want.

Thanks Brian! any advice on Trade-in? Since I can afford a downpayment, should I just sell my old car private party and not deal with trading it in?

brian125

If your vehicle is in good shape, mechanically sound you will get more for a private sale. If you don't want the hassle trying to sell it Trading in will net you a lot less depending on make , model, etc.

What I would do is round up the 3 or 4 best dealer prices on new vehicle via emails and phone calls closest to your house then drive your car to each one making who ever gives you a fair deal on the trade.

Do not mention trade until you get into each dealership. Tell each dealer you decided to trade this vehicle in. Check online prices so you have a ball park figure on your vehicles value.

good luck