2014 Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

Justin K

I am negotiating a deal in Arizona for 2014 Honda Accord Sport CVT and they couldn't meet my original demands but they called me today and the sales associate is going to talk to his gm he claims and see if he can do 21,800 includes doc fee, dealer alarm, lifetime window tint, and paint protection which I asked them to remove all three and they threw them all in for $299. Is this a good price how much below invoice?

brian125

ikeeprunnin ,

23,225 is invoice price w/ dest charge included. 1500 to 2000 below dealers invoice is your target price to negotiate in AZ. Your deal is at 1425 below dealers invoice. Is the 299 included already or not in this price?

Make this dealer throw in the alarm, tint, and paint protection for free or tell dealer you are buying elsewhere. While they are figuring that out Get more dealership's involved in the price wars.

Negotiating closer to 2k below or lower in AZ is a lot harder than in a lot of states. If your in that 1500 below invoice to 2k mark................... you have done well.

macrons

thanks so much for your reply! I'm looking into the Sports model.

The price I'm getting:

Sales price $20,780.00
state tax $1,298.75
inv tax $48.17
title.lic, insp $136.00
doc $189.00
drive out $22,451.92

MSRP $25,309.00
Sales Price $21,245.16
Accessories $412.00
Total Sale Price $21,657.16
Tax (6.25%) $1,353.57
VIT $55.62
Title & License Fees $275.00
Total Drive Out $23,341.35

macrons

@jtyh123 said:
@ macrons, don't know which area you are in, my quote was $19,000 for a '14 Accord LX CVT. I'm in north TX.

I'm in Houston. When did you receive this quote? How much did your total come up to?

macrons

@hondaguymn said:
Just found out that VIT is Vehicle Inventory Tax

brian125

The state of Texas charges any business an inventory tax in January of each year for products in warehouse at the end of the year. It’s not much, @0.02% of the retail value of the item. Some large national companies ship inventory out of state to other warehouses to avoid paying the Texas inventory taxes.

Several New and Used car dealerships go one step further and try to charge the consumer the Vehicle Inventory Tax on every car sales receipt during the year.

Although the Texas department of transportation office says by definition the “Vehicle Inventory Tax (VIT) – A property tax that dealers pay on their business inventory. This is NOT a tax that is required to be paid by the consumer.”

referenced at www.txdot.gov/publications/motor_vehicle/section01.pdf

So how do you get around this charge if dealers wont take it off bill off sale????

kae10

Thanks to everyone who posted their experience on this forum. I spent about three weeks reading this forum and emailing various dealerships within an hour away from me and finally yesterday, I bought an Accord EX-L with mud guards and wheel locks for the sale price of $24,000 (destination charge included). sale tax was $2167.20 (CA tax) title and license fee 267. OTD was $26,543.

kyfdx

@brian125 said:
The state of Texas charges any business an inventory tax in January of each year for products in warehouse at the end of the year. It’s not much, 0.02% of the retail value of the item. Some large national companies ship inventory out of state to other warehouses to avoid paying the Texas inventory taxes.

Several New and Used car dealerships go one step further and try to charge the consumer the Vehicle Inventory Tax on every car sales receipt during the year.

Although the Texas department of transportation office says by definition the “Vehicle Inventory Tax (VIT) – A property tax that dealers pay on their business inventory. This is NOT a tax that is required to be paid by the consumer.”

referenced at www.txdot.gov/publications/motor_vehicle/section01.pdf

So how do you get around this charge if dealers wont take it off bill off sale????

It's under $100.. everybody in Texas pays it, even thought it's not required.. Not worth taking your eye off the ball..

brian125

In Texas your Doc fee charge and the VIT charge should be handled the same way. Add them into your vehicle asking price making these 2 charges.................. a wash on the bill of sale.

martyg2014

@macrons said:
thanks so much for your reply! I'm looking into the Sports model.

The price I'm getting:

Sales price $20,780.00
state tax $1,298.75
inv tax $48.17
title.lic, insp $136.00
doc $189.00
drive out $22,451.92

MSRP $25,309.00
Sales Price $21,245.16
Accessories $412.00
Total Sale Price $21,657.16
Tax (6.25%) $1,353.57
VIT $55.62
Title & License Fees $275.00
Total Drive Out $23,341.35

Are you listing 2 separate sales offers? If you are the first one is much better. It is also right in line with what a paid in San Antonio almost 3 weeks ago. My sales price was 20,975 and had similar fees - no accessories.

martyg2014

@brian125, inquiring minds want to know - well at least I do! How did the Chevy Cruze negotiations work out this past weekend?

macrons

@martyg2014 said:
Are you listing 2 separate sales offers? If you are the first one is much better. It is also right in line with what a paid in San Antonio almost 3 weeks ago. My sales price was 20,975 and had similar fees - no accessories.

yea two different offers. Did you buy off Fernandez Honda? Do they hike up the price with accessories later on?

I got a sale offer from another dealer which included accessories resulting in a price increase of $1700 (definitely not worth it)

brian125

@martyg2014 said:
brian125, inquiring minds want to know - well at least I do! How did the Chevy Cruze negotiations work out this past weekend?

marty, I'll tell you buying a GM vehicle is a lot easier than buying a Honda. I negotiated a price deal via phone within a hour. I pitted Buff Whelan against Al Serra auto in MI.

High volume dealerships with plenty of stock usually results in a good deal.

last month I negotiated for a VW, SUV and had a hard time getting my price. after going thru 16 dealerships I was ready to give in and lower my price when the one dealership I least expected did a 360 on me. I have brokered deals where it took my 2 months to get near my target price. But its all up to the individual. I love the art of negotiating, I like to go that extra mile to make that better deal.

For most buyers knowing you made a decent deal and did not get ripped off is good enough. If you catch me in one of these car buying forums I will make sure you don't get ripped off. Appling just a few of the tips, tricks, techniques I talk about will save you a few dollars.

deebeeem

Data point from MD (DC area): Did not use the plainly more effective techniques described here, but did rely on the information (i.e., shoot for $1500-$2500 below invoice) and the consumer reports information; devoted about 2 or 3 hrs to emailing/calling around 5 or 6 dealers showing desired car in inventory, eliminated some after phone calls, and made an offer that was accepted at the end of the day (Labor day, 9/1):

2014 EX-L CVT w/ Nav, no accessories/add-ons

Invoice incl. destination = $28,269
sales price = $26,000 + TTL (destination and $299 doc fee included in sales price)
$27,839 OTD w/TTL w/ 0.9% for 60 months

By my calculations, $2,269 below invoice. For whatever it's worth, almost exactly truecar's estimated price. Felt like I could have done better, very likely that someone else in the DC area can if they are willing to devote more than 2 or 3 hours to the whole process.

Sport Honda, Silver Spring:very pleasant experience, no nonsense at all

Thank you to all who have contributed info to this forum.

brian125

deebeeem

Best pricing in the country on Civics, Accords and Pilots. MD, VA area.

martyg2014

@macrons said:
I got a sale offer from another dealer which included accessories resulting in a price increase of $1700 (definitely not worth it)

I did not buy from Fernandez, but I am familiar with them...have done service there several times. I actually shopped them for this purchase. Price was actually 15 less at Fernandez. They do not have any vehicles that I looked at with packaged accessories already included. I have not seen these packaged accessories at any Honda dealer in San Antonio...all the way back to 2001. Their cars come with the paint/fabric protection for free and you get a year of car wash at the Wash Tub. The only thing they would not do was 0.9 and 1,000 cash back. Said it was either or and blamed it on Honda. So to get the 21,000 price, I could not get 0.9. The price would be 22,000 with 0.9. I did not push on this, but would I have if pursuing the offer further.
My purchase was at Gillman. They had optional package of paint fabric protector (399) and nitrogen (199). told him that I did not want either and it was no big deal. Price was 21000 and 0.9

Justin K

I ended up purchasing my 2014 Honda Accord Sport CVT in AZ from Earnhardt Honda in Avondale last night. Selling Price 21336.41 +398.75 doc fee and got them to throw in the window tint, auto butler paint protection, dealer installed alarm, and protection package at no charge . They were great to deal with but for fellow AZ people they claimed this was only a one time month end deal to meet quota. I figure I paid almost $1,500 under invoice and got some free accessories.

mr_trent

Hello everyone,

New car buyer here. And I don't just mean I'm a buyer of a new car; I mean I'm new to buying cars. I've read through this forum, and I think I'm picking up on the gist of how this works, but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask some questions. When it comes to big purchases, I like to take my time, and I like to have as much information as possible before making the purchase.

I have pretty much decided to purchase a 2014 Accord EX-L CVT, and I'm in the DFW area. I took a test drive on Labor day, and while there, a salesperson quoted me a "no haggle" sales price of $25,859. I didn't inquire into that much, as I was just there to test drive the vehicle and not really interested in talking numbers. But he did say that quote included some sort of $1,500 incentive.

I looked on Edmunds, which indicates there is a $1,500 dealer cash incentive for new purchases. I'm not sure what that is, and I'm not sure how that factors into the picture when I start getting some quotes.

Also, If someone could help me in formulating a good range for a target price for a 2014 EX-L CVT with base features, I'd really appreciate it.

snaab

30,000 out the door for a 2014 ex-l with navigation. In the MD area. Good price? What should I target for if not? Thanks!

deebeeem

snaab,

Please see my post a couple above yours--same car, Silver Spring, MD, 27,839 OTD. If you are near SS, try Sport Honda, you should get a much better deal. I'd offer less than I paid and see what happens. Good luck.

OwnAnOdy

Has anyone purchased a 2015 Accord EX-L yet? Just curious about pricing & incentives.

mossburgh

I wanted to provide some feedback as a token of my gratitude for all the help this forum was in guiding me through the purchase of my 2014 Accord Sport with aftermarket remote start installed by dealer.
MSRP - 25,305
Agreed upon price - 21,742.40
Remote Start - 350
Doc fee - 133
License/Title(transfer) - 138.55
Acquisition Fee - 595
It seems I was charged 10% tax on the Remote Start, doc fee, license/title and acquisition? Not sure but I think they may have pulled a fast one on that and tacked on another 127.62 and called it "Tax on Collected Items" (10% of the cost of remote start, license/title/ acq fee and doc fee is 122). Nonetheless on the dealers structure sheet this is the order of things.

Next on the sheet -
Total Cap - 23,086.57 ( This is the Agreed upon price + [remote start 350, doc fee's 133, license/title 138.55, acquisition 595]{plus tax on these 127.62})

I paid 1,149.14 up front and the dealer put 500 back in as conquest cash for a total of 1,649.14 toward the cost of the remote start - 350, doc fee - 133, license/title - 138.55, acquisition fee - 595 and tax on these - 127.62 and also first months payment 240 (total cost 1,584.16). not too sure where the remaining $65 went but I think it went back into the cap because my monthly payments actually came in $3 less than I had calculated - 237

The rest of the details
.56 residual
.00026 rate
PA tax 7%/10%

Hope this helps, hope I got a good deal, I think I did, and good luck all!

abro74

@snaab said:
30,000 out the door for a 2014 ex-l with navigation. In the MD area. Good price? What should I target for if not? Thanks!

Got mine at $27300 OTD at Northwest Honda.

mr_trent

I am getting several quotes from dealers who are including a lot of dealer addons that I don't want, and they are also telling me that they don't have any vehicles that don't have these addons. Anyone have any advice on this situation? The addons are things like Window Tint, Pin Stripe, Wheel Locks, Splash Guards, Trunk/Cargo tray.

brian125

mr_trent

Go to:

@Cheaphonda parts.com OR @Colleghillshonda.com . make dealer match these prices on accessories.

Paper pin stripping cost 10 dollars for a roll at Autozone/ Pep boys, etc.

Window tint negotiate down to 125 dollars to 150 tops.

topch5d

Good afternoon! I am currently looking to purchase my first car on my own and was wondering if anyone had any insight they would like to share, as it would be much appreciated! I am looking to buy an accord coupe v6 ex-l without navigation. The dealership close to me has two leftover 2013 accord coupe ex-l v6's without nav, both in tiger eye pearl with an msrp of $31,140. The salesperson quoted me at $24,995 before tax and fees, and I was wondering if that is a good deal? It seems to be $3,000 below dealer invoice, however the 2015 models will be coming out soon and they already have sedan 2015 models on the lot. If anyone has any suggestions or comments on price, I would appreciate it! PS sorry if this is redundant, I searched this thread and couldn't find a leftover 2013 situation where the dealership had two exactly the same 2013 models left in the same color at this time of the year. Thanks! I appreciate the help
-CD

brian125

topch5d
I know it seems like a new vehicle and it is technically but a 2013 will be 2 years old on Jan 1, 2015. Weight the pro's and con's price wise on the 13, to the 15 model then decide. 3k below is a high price to buy a 2013 . Some buyers in this forum have received good deals on a 2014 coupe model. Price ranging from 1500 below invoice to 2k plus.

I would tell dealers you are interested in buying from these target prices on your model.

2015............ 500 below dealers invoice

2014............2000 below dealers invoice

2013...........3500 to 4k below dealers invoice

perez585

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to purchase a 2014 Accord Sport. I'm in southeastern Massachusetts, and already have one offer from a dealer for a price of $21,180/22,999 OTD. Seems good to me, but I just sent out emails to the surrounding dealers to get additional offers. Half are in MA, the other half are in RI.

Does this seems like a good price? And does anyone have experience with RI dealers, I know their taxes are higher, but anything else?

Thanks

topch5d

Thanks brian125 for the answer. We ended up on a price of $22995 which I am satisfied with, especially with the sticker being $31,000+. I looked at certified 2013 accord v6 coupes within a 300 mile radius and I think I got a pretty good deal on a new one. I appreciate the help and am happy to be part of the accord community!

andremike

Anyone ask the dealer about putting the sport wheels on the Exl or exlv6? What did they charge? Did they give yoy any credit on the origunal wheels?

sunny_9

Hi All,

I have a question which might sound silly. I see lot posts regarding EX-L Trim than EX trim. Is EX-L a better considered trim than EX or it's just that people who bought EX-L posted more here.

I am planning on buying EX vehicle. Thanks in advance.

andremike

You can compare trims on hondas website, but one major difference is the exl has leather.
The exl will usually come with a few other things..

So if you dont want leather then get the ex.

ccovenas

thank you everyone! and special shout out to BRIAN! i am a first time buyer and learned so much from this forum in just this weekend which was ALOT. so many things i did not know and you guys helped me figure it out.
another special shout out to my sales man FAHEEM in HOUSTON, TX @ the katy honda dealership.

MSRP: 31043.95
Selling Price: 25059.61
Less trade in: 1000
subtotal: 24059.61
TTL&Taxes: 1740.39
grand total being: 25800 for a brand new 2014 honda accord 4cyl EX-L w/o navi
includes a lifetime supply of oil changes, tinted windows, cargo tray, wheel locks, and splash guards. no spoiler.
purchase order has been signed. just waiting for the bank tomorrow to finalize everything... still feel shocked in all this... feels too good to be true. to be honest, i feel like i'm goina get a huge surprise price change any minute!

mtndew77

Hello folks,

I'm interested in 2014 Honda Accord LX sedan w/ CVT, and I just wanted to ask question. Oh, and I'm in upstate SC.

Total MSRP: $23,545
Factory Invoice: $21,620
Dealer Holdback: around $600?
Incentive: 0.9% APR for 60months, $500 new graduate incentive, also it says, $1500 dealer incentive on Edumudns app, but I can't find this.

Anyways,
Is it better to suggest the price that I'm thinking, or have dealer suggest first?

Also,
Should I tell dealership about new graduate incentive $500 after I got OTD?

Brian, I've been reading your posts and comments, and I appreciate your efforts on this forum. I'm learning a lot. And I can't find your "techniques", where I can find this?

martyg2014

qq> @topch5d said:

Thanks brian125 for the answer. We ended up on a price of $22995 which I am satisfied with, especially with the sticker being $31,000+. I looked at certified 2013 accord v6 coupes within a 300 mile radius and I think I got a pretty good deal on a new one. I appreciate the help and am happy to be part of the accord community!

Looks like a slam dunk good deal @5000+ below invoice

martyg2014

@andremike said:
Anyone ask the dealer about putting the sport wheels on the Exl or exlv6? What did they charge? Did they give yoy any credit on the origunal wheels?

Not sure what they do now, but I asked a dealer back in 2001, if I could get the exv6 coupe wheels on the sedan and I got a big fat no, but was given a pamphlet showing which wheels I could upgrade to - no credit on the original wheels.

I have also wondered if you can upgrade the LX and Sport radio from the 160 watt to the 360 watt systems in the EX versions. Radio on my Sport is horrible. Works pretty good with iPhone/iPod so I just downloaded a boatload of music to my phone and set it random play

brian125

The Honda radio is one area where they did a very bad job . Talk about cutting corners with 160 watt stereo and Foster speakers. Up-grade speakers with amp you will get better sound.

Honda will not upgrade your stereo or wheels. You could buy the upgrade wheels from honda and sell your old rims on ebay.

I have the 360 watt in my EXL, V-6. I couldn't imagine anything worse. But I guess there is.

brian125

@mtndew77 said:
Hello folks,

I'm interested in 2014 Honda Accord LX sedan w/ CVT, and I just wanted to ask question. Oh, and I'm in upstate SC.

Total MSRP: $23,545
Factory Invoice: $21,620
Dealer Holdback: around $600?
Incentive: 0.9% APR for 60months, $500 new graduate incentive, also it says, $1500 dealer incentive on Edumudns app, but I can't find this.

Anyways,
Is it better to suggest the price that I'm thinking, or have dealer suggest first?

Also,
Should I tell dealership about new graduate incentive $500 after I got OTD?

Brian, I've been reading your posts and comments, and I appreciate your efforts on this forum. I'm learning a lot. And I can't find your "techniques", where I can find this?

Double click on my user name. Then click on my 2706 comments. Scroll thru those comments I'm sure you will find great buying info. Edmunds new web page does not leave a numbered post anymore leaving all of us to go back and read thru past threads.

mtndew77

@brian125 said:Double click on my user name. Then click on my 2706 comments. Scroll thru those comments I'm sure you will find great buying info. Edmunds new web page does not leave a numbered post anymore leaving all of us to go back and read thru past threads.

Thank you the answer, brian125.

This is what I found, from previous posts, is this right one? OR am I missing something else?

"Brian said it best: As all you folks have been reading this board. My suggestion is do not go crazy killing your self trying to get that knock out deal in the middle of the month . Your wasting your time . If you do your research and homework with your target list of dealerships you will make the best possible deal in your area the last 3days, to the last day of the month .

I just wanted to add my two cents with regards to pricing.

Let's assume that Brian is able to buy a new Accord from Dealer A at great price for $XX below invoice, after reading advice and negotiation techniques on this forum. Do not expect to get the same deal as Brian from the same dealership without doing your research. There are several factors in play, which I am not going to discuss at this time.

Time is money, so sometimes we (car buyers) have to ask ourselves whether it is worth saving a few extra bucks by waiting another month to buy a car or drive a few hundred miles for the lowest price.

For all the newbies or lurkers out there, I am going to re-post useful information you should be asking dealers when emailing them for a price quote. It is not rocket science. Here it is:

Sales price of the car including the $790 destination (BUT not including any incentives - This is VERY IMPORTANT)
Dealer documentation fees
Registration fees (should be the same across dealers in the same state)
Incentives such as flex cash, military rebate or grad rebate (if you qualify)
The most important question is whether they have the car you want on their lot, or if not, whether they will be able to locate it for you at no extra charge from another dealership (if supply is limited)
You can also ask them whether the car comes with any dealer-add ons (accessories).

It is simple as that. Do not waste time with salesmen and dealers that give you the run around. If a dealer cannot tell you what their doc fees are or what the sales price of the car is via email or via a phone call, then move on to the next dealership. Do not fall for any tricks by buying an extended warranty from the finance office while finalizing your deal. They are over priced.

I hope this information will help someone out there not get frustrated and be more informed.

Note: Always do your research. Do not rely on salesmen to do your homework for you. Buying a car is a big purchase for most of us, so make sure you educate yourself. Never make any assumptions about what is included in the sales price of the car (if you are not sure). If you have any doubts, ask the dealer to clarify."

And Also, how do I find out dealer doc fee? Is it go ahead ask how much it is? Would they tell the truth?

Thanks

Kirstie_H

A reporter would like to speak to a recent car shopper who has used their mobile device to look for car inventory, compare pricing, look at trim packages, etc. while on a dealer's lot. If this is you, and you'd like to share your story, please send your daytime contact info to pr@edmunds.com no later than 1 p.m. PT/4 p.m. ET on Thursday, 9/11/14.

russinutah1

I'm looking for a 2014 Accord LX CVT. My old car died a few days ago, so it isn't practical for me to wait until the end of the month. I sent an email offering $19,000 to a few dealers in Las Vegas, and my best counter offer is $19,485 + $400 doc fee + $36 DMV fee (I live out of state, so a permit is required to legally drive it home). By my math, that comes out to $1,700 below invoice. One of the responses said that $19,000 even would be a net loss for the dealer (their offer was about $70 worse than the best). There are no extras at all in the deal.

I don't have a lot of dealers to choose from. There are 5 dealers within a 2-hour drive, and one (my local dealer) is low volume and terrible on pricing. I'm not sure how the Las Vegas area market compares to others. Also, it seems like the biggest discounts reported here have been on higher trim lines, where there might be more margin and thus more room for discounts. Is that true? I was hoping to get $2,000 below invoice, but I'm a few hundred short of that, and the inventories for 2014s seem to be dwindling.

So what do you think? Should I take it for $1,700 below invoice on a 2014 LX?

brian125

russinutah1,

Limited dealers , Time frame , Close to your target price , Finding your model w/o Unnecessary accessories added..

Buy vehicle.

mks2011

Can anyone recommend a good dealership in the Dallas area? My husband's car unexpectedly bit the dust today and I haven't had time to research trim levels, prices, dealership, nada. (I spent months deciding on my last car so I feel like I'm flying by the seat of my pants!)

How do the Consumer Reports TrueCar estimates compare to OTD pricing? (23,350 for sedan sport CVT) Is this a realistic bottom line price or is there more room to negotiate?

Please forgive my ignorance...I'm still trying to figure out the different trim levels. Thanks for any and all help!

utesfan

Hi Brian and others,

I have been trying to follow the method Brian and others have been outlining in the posts. I live in Austin and have emailed dealers in Austin, Killeen, Dallas, Houston, San Marcos and San Antonio. The least quote I received for 2014 Honda Accord EX-L V6 from San Antoniowas:

Your price $25,980.00
state tax $ 1,623.75
inv tax $ 60.22
title.lic, insp $ 136.00
doc $ 189.00


drive out $27,988.97

Basically he gave me that price for the last car in his lot and does not have the configuration I want. Nobody comes close to that quote. Austin area is notorious with virtually no competition, they don't give a damn. At this time of the year, everyone is offering the price @ invoice, around 27K + TTL. When I show them the least quote, they are asking me to take a hike. From the forum posts I understand that the selling price should be around 1500-2000 off the invoice and there aren't many 2014 V6's left around.

So can anyone point me to a dealer in the neighboring areas of Austin where you guys had a better experience? Or I am missing something on the negotiating table?

Thanks.

mtndew77

Hello.

I have a quick question for you all.
I'm about to send out an emails to dealerships.
Should I ask "what's your best offer"? OR
Should I offer the target price?

brian125

@mtndew77 said,

I have a quick question for you all.
I'm about to send out an emails to dealerships.
Should I ask "what's your best offer"? OR
Should I offer the target price?
................................................................................................................................................................

A target price is a faster way to negotiate and close your deal.. Lets get right to it, be direct tell all your dealers what number gets the deal done today. Put the ball in dealers hands. Accept or counter my offer if my price is to low.

When you keep on asking dealers to give you there best price you get there idea of what THEY want you to pay. Educated Forum buyers like you all Know 1500 to 2000 below dealers invoice is where most of you will score a deal. With some getting above 2k.

Factors that will affect your pricing In Sept and Oct are:

Supply and demand on dealers lots

Your area/ doing your pre homework

How good you could negotiate

Knowing how and when to buy


Buying closer to months end

Getting as many dealerships involved in the price wars as your willing to travel to.

brian125

utesfan

Read your post.

What I would do is call all dealers I'm willing to drive to. Ask each dealers Internet manager or the internet team?

Do you have my model ?

What colors do you have?

Are there any added accessories in these vehicles?

What are your dealers doc fee charge?

Always get the managers name, email, and phone number before you hang up. Tell each place you will call, or email back later. You have not decided . Do not tip your hand with a price ............... You are collecting vehicle info SO your not ready to negotiate a deal yet until you conclude your vehicle search.

Once you make all your calls to target dealerships and collect this info you could now Re- start your negotiations............. Via email, or direct phone calls to each dealership.

In your calls, or emails here would be a example of what you say :

Hi Jim, Julia , Mike, Sal , Pete,

Just spoke to you about this model, color etc. I will buy this vehicle from your dealership right know for xxx below invoice price. this price includes the destination fee of 790. and excludes taxes and tags. I am willing to leave a credit card deposit till I could get down to your store to pick up vehicle.

Go down your list of dealers and negotiate online , via phone from the comfort of your own home. Once you strike a reasonable price deal with a dealership get dealer to send you a bill of sale by fax or at worst case some kind of email conformation with model, color and price on it.

Never trust any dealers word on pricing and drive extended miles without a written price/ model conformation.. You may get burned. If that dealer really wants your business they will put it on paper for you. By you giving them a credit card deposit shows you are a serious buyer and wont shop that price around town.

You extend your hand and so should the dealer. OR YOU WALK Away

mtndew77

brian125 said:

@mtndew77 said,

I have a quick question for you all.
I'm about to send out an emails to dealerships.
Should I ask "what's your best offer"? OR
Should I offer the target price?
................................................................................................................................................................

A target price is a faster way to negotiate and close your deal.. Lets get right to it, be direct tell all your dealers what number gets the deal done today. Put the ball in dealers hands. Accept or counter my offer if my price is to low.

When you keep on asking dealers to give you there best price you get there idea of what THEY want you to pay. Educated Forum buyers like you all Know 1500 to 2000 below dealers invoice is where most of you will score a deal. With some getting above 2k.

Factors that will affect your pricing In Sept and Oct are:

Supply and demand on dealers lots

Your area/ doing your pre homework

How good you could negotiate

Knowing how and when to buy


Buying closer to months end

Getting as many dealerships involved in the price wars as your willing to travel to.

@brian125‌ Thank you for your answer brian125.

Actually, I sent out email earlier today w/o target price. However,
I followed your guide, asking what their sale price, doc fee, tax, incentives, and etc.

The best deal I've got so far is:

MSRP: $20,044 (it seems to be lower than average, i don't know why they have this number)
Sale price: $19,779
Doc fee: $299
Tax: $300 (apparently SC has flat tax, which is good)
Tag: $52

Total:$20430.

And they said it's "No Hassle Price". Also, they said price include

*Honda Destination charge (I guess $790)
*Splash Guards
*Wheel Locks
*Trunk Tray

$20430 makes only 1190 below invoice. I read somewhere that SC is hard to get higher than 1500 (right?), so my target is to get as much as close to 1500 below invoice.

I just sold my current car today, so maybe this is not the best time of the month to get a car, but I have to buy a car within next couple days.

What would be the good strategy for next? I was going to ask for my target price whether they accept or counter like you mentioned above.

brian125

Beginning of the month is a lot of times harder to get that better pricing.


And why should dealers give in so early?????.. Buying a car is a big game. Unless you are forcing a dealers hand with a direct price or letting them know you have better deals elsewhere they may not budge much off there offer.

If you do not live in SC the flat tax does not apply to you. You will be charged what ever your states sales tax rate is.

perez585

Just signed for a 2014 Sport CVT! $20,400 Price. $22,230 OTD. Boch Honda, MA.

Great deal, great car.

Thanks all for the advice here.