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Veers, you can count NY AND CT as game players. I think some of the higher volume dealers in Westchester might have been okay but none had cars. The two larger dealers on Long Island didn't seem trust worthy. So much for volume sales. But the three in my area, Mount Kisco, Greenwich and Westport were the absolute pits. Milford not much better. It was their way or the highway. And the condescending, snobby and snotty attitudes when I tried to be polite really pissed me off. It is their perogative to stick to their price but they were rude and unhelpful about it. Oh well. I guess that's why people often dread buying a car - which should be a joyous experience especially when you can afford a nice car.
Just FYI, I can't really do a long trip right now so a nice jaunt to MD is not in the cards. And with a blizzard on its way, I don't think so.
Some of the dealers might crack and call you tomorrow. You could also try walking in to a place that you know has the car and offering $1,000 under invoice with a written out check and walking out if they refuse. Dealers really hate to lose a live customer. If things don't pan out, you could still go to MD next week and get a good deal.
@dancingdiva and to anyone else out there in the CT/NY metro area,
Do not get discouraged. If you feel like taking a trip down to Beantown, I can put you in touch with the internet manager I dealt with at Honda Cars of Boston when I bought my Accord. He did not play any games with me, and although they had to get the car from another dealership, they did not charge me a finder's fee.
I got everything in writing before walking into the dealership and they even took my credit application over the phone.
I cannot guarantee that they would have the lowest price, but they will not give you the run around.
I would agree with Brian when he says you should call the dealerships and ask to speak to the internet manager or sales manager who can make a decision on the spot. If the price you are being quoted is more than what you want to pay, you have two options: try and negotiate your best deal or wait another month to buy.
If $1000 below invoice price is the best you can do in the CT/NY metro area, then you know that's the market price of the Accord in that area.
Hope you guys have a better day tomorrow. Happy New Year.
Does anyone have real world experience with Huntington Honda? I got a quote for a good deal, but it is a distance for me and all I have is an email with a quote that says they agree to sell me car for X including destination and no administration fees. I just don't want to drive down there, and pay tolls etc. just to get jerked around.
On another note the dealer that didn't have the car they said they had told me that they could try to get it for me (same quoted price) by Thursday. Not sure if I should do this or not. It is closer to home, but if they can't get the car (not sure why they couldn't because at least a few dealers around have it - but I don't know who they trade with), I'll be without a car and year end deals will be over. That said, I don't necessarily need a car and perhaps the deals will be the same at the end of next month. They aren't so fantastic now anyway.
Well this was a bust today. Got 4 quotes of $1000 under invoice - even one for $1500 under but the first three didn't have the car and the fourth one seems like a flaky deal.
Can any of those three dealerships get you the car in your color combination? What did they say when you inquired? Are they going to charge you a finder's fee? Does anyone have flex cash?
They just say that, but you do not need to let them run your credit unless you are financing there and have agreed on the price. Just keep insisting that you don't need your credit check because you have a loan already and know your score is good. They just want to run your credit because it will lower your score thus make it harder for you to leave the dealer. If they insist than just walk away or ask for a different salesmen/mangers.
It's dealer profit 101, lil_owl. Dealers are desperate to distract you from the price of the car and the value of your trade. So they love to focus on the monthly payment, and especially your down payment. They run your credit to see what kind of rate they can get, then add on a couple points for profit and give you the offer. More importantly, they will demand some absurd down payment, like 1/3, to induce some shock in you, and make you forget about the care price and trade in value. They will then slowly come down on the down payment, while leaving the car at sticker etc... That's how they "protect gross" and fleece you. Here is a presentation from the master himself
This is also why dealers are so eager to get you into the dealership... that's where they can "protect gross." If you negotiate everything by e-mail/phone they can only win by giving you the lowest price. If you come in, they can confuse you, claim other dealers are lying, add fees, and trick you into a bad deal. In fact, they prefer financing to cash purchases, as they can make money on the points.
Huntington has a very good reputation, they got the Honda President's award last year. I have not had personal dealings with them, but they seem more likely to honor deals. They are definitely one of the NY dealerships I would look to buy at. Obviously get everything in writing and confirm by phone before you start driving. Make sure they set aside the car and have it prepped and waiting for you.
I agree, since you got a loan already it won't affect you. Do they know you have a loan in place already? That practice is to mainly allow them to offer you a loan at a lower rate if necessary. Most Credit Union's rate is not .9 APR for 36months or 1.9% APR for 37-60 Months. If they can get your credit check they will try to talk you into getting the loan from them instead of your Credit Union.
Veers, how detailed of a breakdown do you think I need in writing? They don't seem very inclined to give line by line breakdowns, but their email is clear enough to be legally binding IF they have the car. I spoke to someone late this evening who confirmed they had the car and told me that the notes in the computer indicate that two managers signed off on the deal. I made an appointment to go down there at 11:30 tomorrow. I will, of course, call before I go and make sure nothing has changed, but I am still a little uneasy not having something more formal. It is good to know that they have a good reputation.
One other question for those who have purchased far away from home. In the event any little annoying problems have popped up that require little adjustments, etc., have you had any problem getting attention from your local dealer service department?
As a rule their e-mails are not legally binding anyway since they are peppered with disclaimers. I would try to get the OTD price in writing, and would try to verbally confirm it with the manager. The only surefire way to do this is a fax buy, otherwise it sounds like you have done all the legwork you can.
Good luck tomorrow! If for some reason this fails, I would drive in to some other local dealers like North Shore, New Rochelle, etc... and see if they will make the deal.
I posted here a few months ago regarding advice on a 2014 ex-l cvt with nav and Brian and a few others weighed in. At the time I was also looking for remote start. I ended up pausing my search because I hadn't gone about it quite the right way (after reading the tips here) and just re-started the process right before Christmas (dropping the remote start option). As of today, I have two offers that I'm considering. Although neither are extraordinary, I was hoping for some additional input. I've been approaching it from the total OTD price instead of 'invoice minus x, plus dealer doc fee' so hopefully this is still somewhat in line with the thought process here:
OTD= $28,900 (includes 6 oil changes)
Doc Fee is $398
Tax was calculated at 3%
Tag and Title are $74
Dealer orginally told me last month there way no flex cash available but I emailed back today to ask again and haven't heard back yet. However, I know that this dealership has (1) of my specific color combination on the lot.
OTD= $28,800 (price includes mud guards, wheel locks and trunk mat and lifetime oil changes)
Doc Fee is $398
Tax was calculated at 3%
Tag and Title are $74
Dealer says no flex cash left and if their online inventory is up to date, they do not have the color combination I want. (I checked because I asked internet mgr earlier today and have not heard back)
I realize I need to use #2 to re-negotiate with #1, but what is the gut on the over-all offers? I'm also in the Raleigh/Durham area and don't really want to travel. My last offer to both was $28,5k OTD. Should I hold out tomorrow for that price and see what happens--along with throwing in other accessories/incentives?
Thank you in advance!
Multiple credit checks?
When I bought a Toyota truck many years ago, I had no less than 10 credit checks run in about 2 weeks. Multiple credit checks will count as 1 during a 30 day period. The game back then was to get you to do a credit report so they could "lock you in" to the dealer. But I walked 9 times. Other than dealers knowing some personal information, you will not suffer any unjustified dings to your credit. As long as the 30 day window is not exceeded.
Multiple credit checks from the same company will count as one credit check within 30 days, but if you have a credit check at a Credit Union, a bank, than a dealer it will count as 3, and will certainly hurt your credit score.
Yes, the Concord Honda Bait and Switch begins when they run your credit before they decide to not uphold the agreed upon offer lol...well, I suppose it traps some but multiple credit checks before a large purchase doesn't really hurt your credit much.
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