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2014 Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

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Comments

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Conquest Bonus $ Offer

    Requirements and Restrictions: •Competitor Conquest Bonus Cash is available towards leasing or retail purchase to current owner of a 2004 or newer Audi, BMW, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Ford, GMC, Hummer, Hyundai, Infiniti, Jaguar, Jeep, Kia, Rover, Lexus, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercedes-Benz, Mini, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Porsche, Ram, Saab, Scion, Smart, Subaru, Suzuki, Toyota, Volkswagen, or Volvo vehicle. Bonus must be used towards the cap cost reduction. If used towards lease, contracts must be for a minimum of 24 month term and cannot be combined with Zero Due leases. Trade-in is not required and Bonus Cash can be transferred to members residing within the same household. Vehicle must be financed through Honda Financial Services.

    Bonus $ Offer

    Type

    Start

    End

    $500 Conquest 07/22/2014 09/30/2014

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Dealer Cash

    Requirements and Restrictions: •Dealer Cash is available towards retail purchase. Dealer Cash cannot be combined with APR or Lease offers financed through Honda Financial Services. Can be combined with available College Graduate or Military Appreciation offers.

    Dealer Cash

    Start

    End

    $1,000 07/08/2014 09/02/2014

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    which ones apply to you.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • hondaguymnhondaguymn Member Posts: 33
    edited August 2014
    1000 dealer cash can be combined with either conquest or loyalty if you dont take special financing rate but still finance through honda. Plan on refinancing when your title shows up.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    @abro74 said:
    Hi Brian! I'm also interested in the tips on how to care for and maintain the "black" color, lol.

    P21s best wax.... Goes on and off effortless.
    There are a couple things that are unique about P21S wax. You can run your hand across the finish and NOT leave any smears or fingerprints behind like most, if not all, other waxes will. Secondly, it dries TRANSLUCENT so you won't have to worry about accidentally getting it into a crevice and having to brush it out. Keep in mind that there are NO CLEANERS/ ABRASIVES in this product. So you MUST use a clay bar and polish first. But after all that prep, applying the wax is a real easy final step. Just smear it on with a gold foam applicator. After about a 45 sec, wipe it off with a microfiber towel. Since the car was already prepped to be clean and polished, it's difficult to see the small improvement. But you can definitely tell it's on by the slick feel of the finish compared to the polished only parts. And it' will m keep beading water for a longer time than other natural waxes by my experience. this wax works best with darker colors.

    every time I wash my car I apply a coat on either one side or a quarter of the car. Do this 4 or 5 times after you wash and your good for the year. Then the next year Re-clay bar the car and re-wax again. I could wax my Accord in 20 mins. with this wax.

    Google; p21s Carnauba wax... You wont be disappointed. My favorite wax to apply without all the muscle need or killing yourself doing it.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • hondaguymnhondaguymn Member Posts: 33
    David you are double counting dest fee. Re-read Brian's post above 28542-. 26683=1900-doc fee plus any rebates you qualify for. Dont know doc fees in you area but pretty good price on a lot of car. Try your local credit union or think about the 0.9 percent value.
  • hondaguymnhondaguymn Member Posts: 33
    WBart call their internet sales and ask for travis. They had at least one more, just eye the car over carefully. The cheaper one is beat up.
  • abro74abro74 Member Posts: 16
    edited August 2014

    @brian125 said:
    which ones apply to you.

  • abro74abro74 Member Posts: 16

    I do own a 2005 Nissan Murano and also own a 2010 Honda Accord, so I think I would qualify for either but may not be combined.
    From my understanding I have to use HFS in order to use any of those rebates and when that happens I can't get the 0.9%?

  • abro74abro74 Member Posts: 16

    @Brian125 Thank you for the car tips. I'll check it out.

  • abro74abro74 Member Posts: 16

    @hondaguymn said:
    1000 dealer cash can be combined with either conquest or loyalty if you dont take special financing rate but still finance through honda. Plan on refinancing when your title shows up.

    So there's no minimum term for the Honda financing?

  • hondaguymnhondaguymn Member Posts: 33

    I believe leasing has a minimum term, I don't believe there to be on on regular financing. If so, I'm in trouble....

  • lovethisforumlovethisforum Member Posts: 2

    First, this is the best forum I have found in my research. I was upset with the Consumer Report pricing service, since I almost overpaid for a 2014 Accord EX here in CA.
    My problem is that the EX is not a common trim, and the EX-L has many data points for me to compare. I read all 46 pages, and found ONLY 1 hard data point ($22,306 in June).
    Invoice is 24,278 from this forum, and the advice is to get $2k under invoice.
    My question is in regards to the 'Accord Summer Clearance' dealer cash and conquest offers.
    Is the recommendation now that I subtract the additional $1500 from the 2K and aim for $3500 under invoice? That would be 21,778 which is far below my most current "internet" price offer of $23,000. Thanks very much, in advice, for any assistance.

  • tricky10tricky10 Member Posts: 4

    I have the same question. Even I am looking at the Accord EX here in ATL which invoices for 24,287 (including destination charge). So should I be looking to close the deal around 21,287, which is 24,287 - 2000 (negotiation) - 1000 (dealer cash) = 21,287 + Doc Fee + TTL?

    Any thoughts @brian125 ? Also, apparently the 2015 models will be out late September. So would it be wise to wait a month if possible?

    Thanks!

  • drjimmydrjimmy Member Posts: 1

    I had to register and give Brian125 a huge thank you for taking the time to educate and help in purchasing a Honda.

    I'm still looking and it is difficult in NY to get these dealers to budge but with his information, links and tips, I feel empowered in the situation.

    I'm looking for a 2014 Honda LX CVT. I think 19,800 + DMV & taxes is fair. It's difficult my I'm going to email dealerships with my offer and how I arrived at my figure and let them know that if they cannot accept, I'm sending the next dealer the same offer + $50.00, and so on. Let them use their greed and gaming against them in their own game.

    Thanks Brian-I owe you a beer buddy.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    @lovethisforum said:
    First, this is the best forum I have found in my research. I was upset with the Consumer Report pricing service, since I almost overpaid for a 2014 Accord EX here in CA.
    My problem is that the EX is not a common trim, and the EX-L has many data points for me to compare. I read all 46 pages, and found ONLY 1 hard data point ($22,306 in June).
    Invoice is 24,278 from this forum, and the advice is to get $2k under invoice.
    My question is in regards to the 'Accord Summer Clearance' dealer cash and conquest offers.
    Is the recommendation now that I subtract the additional $1500 from the 2K and aim for $3500 under invoice? That would be 21,778 which is far below my most current "internet" price offer of $23,000. Thanks very much, in advice, for any assistance.

    From pricing we have been seeing in CA, on most of the models your target price to buy at the end of August should be as close to 2k below as possible maybe trying to get as high as 2500 below dealers invoice after taking dealers doc fee charges into consideration. This price includes all dealer incentives that will apply to you.

    I think the Accord Ex model falls into the supply and demand problem on alot of dealers lots. My local dealer has 1 ex model right now on his lot . They are not giving it away and the dealer knows it, Less supply will result in pricing you will have to work for to get above 2k. Buying AT... 3500 below dealers invoice price will never happen on any 2014 model this year. .. 2k to 2500 below dealers invoice is tops on your model and most.. The more dealerships you get involved the better you will do. Apply what I speak about on negotiating and you will do a lot better than most.

    This doesn't mean you don't try to get the 2500 below price 1st, then lowering your asking price to buy if need be... Check out the higher volume Honda sales stores for better pricing and more supply.

    Like we seen last year at the summer clearance and into Sept and Oct, dealers with limited supply start pulling back on pricing if the demand is very strong. For every educated buyer like our members here there are 25 un-educated buyers walking into that dealership receiving and buying the accord that we laugh about in here..

    If you can secure a deal for 2k or more buying the best Midsize car in its class you are so far ahead of the game. Your not buying a Kia, or a GM. Your vehicle carries a great resale value after 4 or 5 years. Most uneducated buyers come no where near the pricing we get.

    .

    Forum members please give back if you purchase a new accord. Post your deals with your buying State, Name of the dealership, pricing w/ dealers doc fee charge and your review on dealer if you have a minute. This helps all of us.

    Good luck in your search

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    @drjimmy said:
    I had to register and give Brian125 a huge thank you for taking the time to educate and help in purchasing a Honda.

    I'm still looking and it is difficult in NY to get these dealers to budge but with his information, links and tips, I feel empowered in the situation.

    I'm looking for a 2014 Honda LX CVT. I think 19,800 + DMV & taxes is fair. It's difficult my I'm going to email dealerships with my offer and how I arrived at my figure and let them know that if they cannot accept, I'm sending the next dealer the same offer + $50.00, and so on. Let them use their greed and gaming against them in their own game.

    Thanks Brian-I owe you a beer buddy.

    Stay firm and play the game right till the end of august. Dealers in NY are hoping you fold your cards first. The LX model is the easiest model to get a better deal on due to its supply on dealers lots .

    Include in your emails to all dealerships You have contacted 20 dealerships and the first dealer to meet your price today gets your business and the immediate sale. Tell each dealership in NY/ NJ you have already made up your mine to travel out of state for the sale by end of Aug. Buying vehicle in MA. OR MD.

    Yonkers and New Rochelle dealerships keep in the mix along with Bay Ridge Honda in Brooklyn . Auto-Sport in NJ. Atlantic and Huntington in LI.... Keep me posted

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    To all buyers

    your deal is not complete till you sign the buyers order/ bill of sale/

    Make sure you bring a calculator with you to double check dealers numbers. I have had 3 people already IM me with dealer got over on me for 500 or 1000 dollars. Completing your sale could be tricky. Dealers do this everyday for a living they know how to distract you.. Then when your signing you get doped. Beware. If there are charges you don't understand stop and challenge the dealer. What is this charge. Why is this charge on here. Anything you don't like or feel is suspicious let dealer know you will walk out on deal. These guys are not your friends and a lot of times are not looking out for your pockets.............. but theirs.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    hondaguymn

    I'll look into your deal and IM you later. Just looking at the paperwork quickly. You received 1500 in incentives and dealers doc fee charge was low at 166 dollars .

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    @tricky10 said:
    I have the same question. Even I am looking at the Accord EX here in ATL which invoices for 24,287 (including destination charge). So should I be looking to close the deal around 21,287, which is 24,287 - 2000 (negotiation) - 1000 (dealer cash) = 21,287 + Doc Fee + TTL?

    Any thoughts brian125 ? Also, apparently the 2015 models will be out late September. So would it be wise to wait a month if possible?

    Thanks!

    If you could get the model and color combo with good pricing on a 2014 make the deal. ``otherwise wait till Sept at the end and buy a 2015. You would be driven a new yr model 3 months before 2015.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • hondaguymnhondaguymn Member Posts: 33

    @tricky10 said:
    I have the same question. Even I am looking at the Accord EX here in ATL which invoices for 24,287 (including destination charge). So should I be looking to close the deal around 21,287, which is 24,287 - 2000 (negotiation) - 1000 (dealer cash) = 21,287 + Doc Fee + TTL?

    Any thoughts brian125 ? Also, apparently the 2015 models will be out late September. So would it be wise to wait a month if possible?

    Thanks!

    Tricky10. do you qualify for loyalty or conquest rebate? You may finance through Honda nonspecial rates and then refinance and receive an extra 500 off.

  • tricky10tricky10 Member Posts: 4

    @hondaguymn said:
    Tricky10. do you qualify for loyalty or conquest rebate? You may finance through Honda nonspecial rates and then refinance and receive an extra 500 off.

    hondaguymn, Unfortunately I personally don't qualify for either of those 2, but I'm going to try to see if I can get around 2K off the EX price especially with the dealer cash involved.

    But I know that because there are not a whole lot of EX models knocking about here in ATL, if the dealers don't budge I might just wait another month for the 2015

  • bethpabethpa Member Posts: 35

    Abro> @abro74 said:

    I'm also interested in the tips on how to care for and maintain the "black" color, lol.

    The biggest secret in keeping a black car paint nice is not to mare the paint with normal washing etc. ONLY use microfiber for the wash mitt and microfiber drying towels. The Honda black paint allows you to do a good detail once a year (2-3 is better). I think the Honda paint holds up great compared to other brands I have had but check out a site like augtogeek.net and you'll find tons of opinions on the best products to detail black cars. But I can't stress enough how badly bath towels or rags scratch paint and show up with a haze especially on dark colors.

    Do not fear black paint anymore:)

  • sajib666sajib666 Member Posts: 2

    Hi! Everyone, I find this forum very useful to buy the Honda accord. So, I really need some help and suggestion on leasing a Honda accord 2014 LX. I am in Hollis, new york and I was just wondering which dealer can give me best rate and how much should I pay. I would really appreciate all of your help and suggestion.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    @bethpa said:
    Abro> abro74 said:
    Do not fear black paint anymore:)

    Just to touch on what @bethpa posted. I wont go into detail. These items below will help protect and keep your paint and clear coat finish lasting and protected a lot longer.

    Darker color vehicles....... P21s wax. Zaino's is also very good wax but has steps to complete. read reviews on it.

    Clay bar car 1 or 2x a year. depending on your area .

    Buy a good car wash soap. I buy Pinnacle car wash . Never use dish soap

    Build up 4 to 6 layers of wax every year. This will protect the cars clear coat from the element.

    Buy a Corral, or Sea Sponges to wash car. These sponges trap the dirt which wont lead to micro scratches on your cars finish.. Never use a cheap sponge they are big offenders leaving fine scratches thru your cars paint . Always use 2 sponges for your car. 1 sea sponge for the trunk/ hood and upper doors. the other for lower door panels, bumper, grille etc. Wash wheels and wells last with a micro sponge. Sounds crazy and most people don't want to be bothered but this is how you keep your investment and paint job in showroom condition.

    Buy a Water blade to wipe off excess water after you wash and before you dry car.

    Dry excess water off car with either microfiber towels, or a Synthetic chamois absorber. Sold at Pep boys or Auto-zone.

    If you are a real nut like I used to be . Buy a high pw leaf blower to remove almost all water after you use the water blade. Then pull the synthetic absorber across the hood and truck. This will prevent any fine scratches that occur from the dirty towel/ or towel being rubbed across the paint.

    lastly buy a California duster to remove the light layer of dust on the vehicle in between washes. The Duster works really good and with its wax coating wont scratch your paints finish...

    Bottle of Spray detailer for very light dirt on car.

    Only go to hand wash car wash places that use micro towels. Try not to go when there are 50 cars on the line. Workers will wipe from the bottom of your car then dry the top hood, truck, etc leaving scratch marks from the dirty towels. Go early morning when not busy or late when the workers can take there time and do the right job.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • tricky10tricky10 Member Posts: 4

    Hi All, have been emailing dealers and received the following offer so far. what do you think?

    Accord EX, no options. 21,900 (includes destination) +599 Doc Fee (they're high in GA) +TTL.

    Go, or No GO?

  • danishs1danishs1 Member Posts: 0
    We just bought an EX-L coupe in NJ. $28,000 OTD. Put down 20k and financed the rest using a low financing option. I want to make sure I got a a good deal. Thanks.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    @tricky10 said:
    Hi All, have been emailing dealers and received the following offer so far. what do you think?

    Accord EX, no options. 21,900 (includes destination) +599 Doc Fee (they're high in GA) +TTL.

    Go, or No GO?

    2387 below dealers invoice minus 599 doc= 1788. This puts you in the targeted buying range.

    Most good deals are closer to the 2k below invoice mark.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    @danishs1 said:
    We just bought an EX-L coupe in NJ. $28,000 OTD. Put down 20k and financed the rest using a low financing option. I want to make sure I got a a good deal. Thanks.

    Not enough pricing info provided . I bought a BMW, x-5 for 62k OTD . How did I do on the sale??? Can't be answered. Please Re- post with name of dealer you bought from.

    Agreed selling price? Was dest/ charge included in that price ?

    dealers doc fee charge?

    where there any options added into the vehicle.?

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jerseymikedjerseymiked Member Posts: 5
    I'm working on the purchase of 2014 accord sedan ex-l. Quote from NJ dealer (DCH). Purchase price of 25,050 includes destination. Doc fee of $369 and TTL would be additional. No extras. Do I pull the trigger or keep haggling?
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    Just one dealer.... Keep on haggling at only 1600 below minus the 369 doc fee.. Get more dealerships involved. Make your best deal at months end if you could wait. NY/NJ market are not as good as we see in MA, Md, VA , FL, CA, or IL

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    In NY/ NJ . I would try for another 500 dollars off . Getting below dealers involved for the immediate sale today, Tomm. or whoever bites first. Basically in NJ getting another 500 would be like washing out each dealerships high doc fee charge. Dealer could be Appling his 1k plus incentives to accommodate your price.. make dealer go into his pocket ..

    NJ= Auto- sport , Garden State, DCH. Paramus and Oldbridge , Madison, Hamilton, Joyce, Paul Miller, VIP, Burlington

    NY= Friendly, Atlantic, Huntington, New Rochelle, Yonkers and maybe BayRidge.

    shoot every one of the above mentioned a email with a new target price and your model telling each internet MGR......... You will buy today for xxx.... NY doc's are only 75 Dollars.

    Good luck.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Member Posts: 79

    Have an offer accepted for 2014 Accord EX-L 4 cyl non nav (MSRP 29060) for $23,900 + TTL. It's a lease so there was 850 lease cash and 500 loyalty rebate applied as well to achieve that price. I was shooting for $23750 net price and feel i could probably get there if i wait till month end, but im tired of going back and forth on this deal. Deal breaks down as: 25250 - 850 lease cash - 500 loyalty rebate = 23900 net price.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    Good Job, post ur State, and name of dealership.. after you purchase.

    Enjoy your new Accord

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jerseymikedjerseymiked Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Brian. I will haggle away and report back for feedback as well as providing info for other readers.
  • sweets1180sweets1180 Member Posts: 21

    Hi! In negotiations via email with a Delaware dealer for a 2014 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L w/Navi. for $26,632 (MSRP is like $30k). Dealer gave $3200 off + $500 for recent grad + $500 for Acura/Honda loyalty. 36 Mo. Lease, 15k mi/year, Only 1st payment due @ signing, $399/mo.

    Is this a deal? Dealer says MF is .00026. I was shooting for $300/mo since I am currently in a '12 Acura TL lease for $400/mo, 15k mi/yr. I did have a trade-in worth $3500 at the time. I really would like to save on the payment, and would prefer not to put money down. Think I can get it down to $300/mo? Dealer says if I pay tax/tags it'll drop the payment. Any suggestions on negotiating this further?

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    sweets1180,

    Wrong forum..... post in the Accord leasing forum.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • sweets1180sweets1180 Member Posts: 21

    @brian125 said:
    sweets1180,

    Wrong forum..... post in the Accord leasing forum.

    Oops!! Thanks Brian!

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    John I will repost detailing from last page.

    @bethpa said: Abro> abro74 said: Do not fear black paint anymore:)

    Just to touch on what @bethpa posted. I won't go into full detail. These items below will help protect and keep your paint and clear coat finish lasting and protected a lot longer.

    Darker color vehicles....... P21s wax. Zaino's is also very good wax but has steps to complete. read reviews on it.

    Clay bar car 1 or 2x a year. depending on your area .

    Buy a good car wash soap. I buy Pinnacle car wash . Never use dish soap

    Build up 4 to 6 layers of wax every year. This will protect the cars clear coat from the element.

    Buy a Corral, or Sea Sponges to wash car. These sponges trap the dirt which wont lead to micro scratches on your cars finish.. Never use a cheap sponge they are big offenders leaving fine scratches thru your cars paint . Always use 2 sponges for your car. 1 sea sponge for the trunk/ hood and upper doors. the other for lower door panels, bumper, grille etc. Wash wheels and wells last with a micro sponge. Sounds crazy and most people don't want to be bothered but this is how you keep your investment and paint job in showroom condition.

    Buy a Water blade to wipe off excess water after you wash and before you dry car.

    Dry excess water off car with either microfiber towels, or a Synthetic chamois absorber. Sold at Pep boys or Auto-zone.

    If you are a real nut like I used to be . Buy a high pw leaf blower to remove almost all water after you use the water blade. Then pull the synthetic absorber across the hood and truck. This will prevent any fine scratches that occur from the dirty towel/ or towel being rubbed across the paint.

    lastly buy a California duster to remove the light layer of dust on the vehicle in between washes. The Duster works really good and with its wax coating wont scratch your paints finish...

    Bottle of Spray detailer for very light dirt on car.

    Only go to hand wash car wash places that use micro towels. Try not to go when there are 50 cars on the line. Workers will wipe from the bottom of your car then dry the top hood, truck, etc leaving scratch marks from the dirty towels. Go early morning when not busy or late when the workers can take there time and do the right job.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • abro74abro74 Member Posts: 16

    @Bethpa and brian125; thanks so much for your detailing tips. Really appreciated.

  • abro74abro74 Member Posts: 16

    Have an offer of $26,000 ( with destination )+TTL+ 399 doc fees with for 2014 EX-L with navi. The dealership is in Virginia. I live in MD. I asked for the dealer cash discount but I was told they're not doing that.
    Dealer says that he's included the $500 loyalty cash on the quote. I asked him how he knew I have a honda already? The response was that chances are someone already has a honda or another car, so would benefit from the either loyalty or conquest cash.
    I told them $27,000 OTD gets the deal done. Is that a good deal?

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Member Posts: 79

    Deal is done. 2014 EX-L 4 cyl non navi, $24,400 incl 850 lease cash, plus 500 loyalty rebate for net sale price of $23900 +ttl. I leased the car for 2 years first payment only down, $347.50/mo

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Gotta love these dealers.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • lukin4adeallukin4adeal Member Posts: 5

    I'm in the Chicago area and I have a few questions. I've already got my initial quotes from 15 dealers. I'm holding off until the end of the month to really start negotiating. I'm getting pricing from a few of the dealers already at 2K below invoice without trying. Honda on Grand in Elmhurst is quoting me $25,745(EXL vehicle price incl dest)-1500(incentives)=$24,245 + 166 doc +TTL. How much more can I expect them to move at the end of the month? Seems like they are giving it all up now. Also, I read on the Honda website regarding the conquest cash, that you have to finance through Honda at 2.9% for 24 monthly payments. Is there a pre-payment penalty if you refi immediately, or is this a don't care? Also, I'm interested in getting some dealer options, like wheel locks, splash guards, wing spoiler, rear bumper applique. How do I determine the invoice price of dealer options? Thanks in advance!

  • sweets1180sweets1180 Member Posts: 21
    edited August 2014

    @sweets1180 said:
    Oops!! Thanks Brian!

    Hi @brian125! I am sorry, I know you told me I'm in the wrong forum, but you know so much and I'm worried. Everyone is talking about the total cost of the car, but I am trying to figure out how to get my monthly payment down to $300/mo. The dealer offered $399/mo which seems higher than ANYONE has posted in this forum for an Accord. I just don't understand why it's that high, and am not sure if I should negotiate the total price (as mentioned in the forum) or my payment. Obviously they move in tandem but the total price seems like a good deal ($4500 less than MSRP). Any help would be MOST appreciated. Also, the dealer said my trade isn't worth as much as the payoff. (payoff $22,600, trade-in $20,500)...But that's not included in his numbers so the payment will only increase. Should I call Acura Financial about this since I'm trying to stay with their brand? I'm sorry to ask so much of you, but no one I know REALLY knows how to negotiate or buy a car. They are all paying ridiculous payments for cheap cars!

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Member Posts: 79

    @sweets1180 said:
    Hi brian125! I am sorry, I know you told me I'm in the wrong forum, but you know so much and I'm worried. Everyone is talking about the total cost of the car, but I am trying to figure out how to get my monthly payment down to $300/mo. The dealer offered $399/mo which seems higher than ANYONE has posted in this forum for an Accord. I just don't understand why it's that high, and am not sure if I should negotiate the total price (as mentioned in the forum) or my payment. Obviously they move in tandem but the total price seems like a good deal ($4500 less than MSRP). Any help would be MOST appreciated. Also, the dealer said my trade isn't worth as much as the payoff. (payoff $22,600, trade-in $20,500)...But that's not included in his numbers so the payment will only increase. Should I call Acura Financial about this since I'm trying to stay with their brand? I'm sorry to ask so much of you, but no one I know REALLY knows how to negotiate or buy a car. They are all paying ridiculous payments for cheap cars!

    The reason everyone is talking about the price of the car rather than the payments is simple. If you focus on the one number that dictates the rest of the deal (sale price of the car), everything else falls into place. Focusing on the price alone removes the ability of the dealer to distract you with the payment while padding in extra profit. Using these forums to structure your potential deal is simple, and should take maybe an hour. All you need to know is the money factor and residual value for the lease term you're interested in, and use these forums to see where the best deals are coming in at for the model you're interested in.

    Example: I decided I wanted to lease my 2014 Accord EX-L 4 cyl non navi. for either 24 months 15k/yr. I know the residual in my area was 53% for 36 months and 60% for 24. I chose 24 months, so i'm at 60%/.00026 money factor. There is $850 factory to dealer lease cash, and the factory to consumer rebates you mentioned in your previous post.

    A quick search showed me back in late July (before the loyalty rebates went into effect) showed me that the floor appeared to be in the low 24K for my model. I settled on $24250 for my offer. I wasn't able to make a deal, even though i had 2 dealers accept my offer price.

    Fast forward to August, and now the loyalty and conquest rebates are out, which should take the price down another $500...BUT were no longer at the end of the month so the pressure to get sales in before month end isn't high yet. My work travel circumstances dictated making a deal now, or waiting until September when my color choice would likely be sold out.

    I offered my dealer $24400 - 500 loyalty for a price of $23900 +ttl (remember, less pressure to make sales mid month...could probably squeeze more out if i waited till the end), which was accepted.

    Using the leaseguide calculator and punching in my numbers (this is where you need to know the MF and residual, as well as MSRP) yielded a total payment of $347.50 for 24 months and $296.XX for 36 months. I walked out of the dealer with first payment only down, and $347.50/mo for 24 months. The numbers did vary by a few dollars, mainly because I had to estimate the fees in my calculations.

    My advice: Focus on the vehicle price, solicit as many dealers as possible, wait until the end of the month to close, and take emotion out of the process. Make it clear that you aren't setting foot inside that dealer until you have come to an agreement in writing (email). Use that calculator I mentioned to run hypothetical scenarios based on different sale prices and see what it does to the payment. Remember, it's just a car...the same one that all of the area dealers have. They aren't selling kidneys here.

    Good luck.

  • sweets1180sweets1180 Member Posts: 21

    @loud0g40oz said:

    LOL! @Kidneys! Very true! Thank you for your advice. I have all of that info actually from the dealer. I am in DE...He says the RV is $15,725 (is that correct?). Money Factor is .00026. MSRP $30,835, with $4203 in discounts for a sales price of $26,632 (excluding tax, tags, and doc fee). Said fees add up to $1,774. When I plug these numbers in the calculator, the payment does come out about the same, but I'm still confused how some folks are paying $250/mo for Accords. Am I missing something? And then this doesn't include vehicle payoff...I still have to turn my current leased vehicle into Acura.

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Member Posts: 79

    @sweets1180 said:
    LOL! Kidneys! Very true! Thank you for your advice. I have all of that info actually from the dealer. I am in DE...He says the RV is $15,725 (is that correct?). Money Factor is .00026. MSRP $30,835, with $4203 in discounts for a sales price of $26,632 (excluding tax, tags, and doc fee). Said fees add up to $1,774. When I plug these numbers in the calculator, the payment does come out about the same, but I'm still confused how some folks are paying $250/mo for Accords. Am I missing something? And then this doesn't include vehicle payoff...I still have to turn my current leased vehicle into Acura.

    If the residual is in fact 51%, in your state on this model then it's right. Go over to the lease forum and verify. Remember that it isn't $4203 in discounts...you have $1k in honda rebates and 850 lease cash. The dealer is actually only discounting $2353...on a $31k car...with the 2015 model about to be released. BTW, per Truecar, the invoice price on your model is $28544. So at the current price you're getting the car for $62 under invoice before the factory incentive and rebates are applied. There's more room in that deal...likely a lot more.

    The market is likely different in Delaware than California, but I would be looking for a price closer to $25k + TTL after all rebates and discounts. You have more rebates available than I do...I would have gotten $23400 net price after rebates if i had the college grad one too. If I were you, I would be after $1k lower price at minimum. Don't be afraid to re-engage dealers to go after the business. It's all free game until you sign on the line. On my deal, I had another dealer emailing even as I drove to sign the papers.

    Your MSRP is $1775 higher than mine was...even if you added the 1775 to my buy price of $23900, then subtract 500 extra rebate, you still get $25175 buy price. Don't focus on tax...that is what it is, and so is the license fee. Focus on the doc fee or any other fee you think may be inflated. And keep the trade value in a separate negotiation after the vehicle price is agreed on.

  • sweets1180sweets1180 Member Posts: 21

    @loud0g40oz said:

    You are making my day! THANK YOU for your detailed reply. I understood everything you said, and will definitely follow your advice! So I should basically tell the dealer the Truecar value, and break it down like you did? Do you do that? Just flat out call BS? Or is there another rebuttal you suggest? (I understand if you don't have time to be my negotiation coach...I'm sorry for all of the questions)

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited August 2014

    @sweets1180;

    I think...@loud0g40oz pretty much knock your question out of the park. Excellent posts.!!!!!

    Lets talk about getting that good price. Your in DE. Honda dealers wont price/ sell like in MD, VA., MA. CA. etc. My suggestion get below dealerships involved in the price wars. Maryland dealers will sell a lot cheaper than DE. You could do all your negotiating via email with the Int. depts. / manager in MD.

    Criswell, Pohanka, O'Donnell, Browns, Sport , Shockley, Jim Coleman.

    First 3 dealers sell a lot vehicles and wont play games. I have sent hundreds of Edmund buyers to these dealers I mentioned . Use them to your advantage. Some are close to you.

    Your target price to buy or lease this vehicle in DE is 1500 to 2k depending on your negotiating skills. Most folks are at 1500 below in DE.

    Your target price in MD should be 2k to 2500 below dealers invoice price which includes all incentives and rebates that apply to you. Excluding taxes, tags, and dealer doc fee charge.

    Once you have the correct leasing numbers.. Mf, Residual, cap cost, etc, find your lowest deal. Have you been reading my posts on buying. Pit one dealer against the next. the more dealerships you get involved in the price wars the better you will do. Use True-Car svc. as a pricing guide and not the final price. Use to your advantage against dealers closer to your house that you might want to lease from.

    Concentrate on getting the lowest agreed sale prices first. Then step 2- is the trade back. Do not mention your trade till after you get good pricing figures. . Once you have your 3 or 4 lowest prices at close to 2k below invoice or more then you proceed to finalize your deal with step 2. then step 3. etc.

    @sweets don't forget supply and demand plays a big part in the pricing games. Dealers that have limited stock wont give you pricing like another dealer with 8 models on there lot.

    So Get as many dealerships involved as far as your willing to travel and make your best deal out of the lot.. You still have 2 weeks before months end. That's when the real deals start. Its best to Negotiate thru this month and sign only when your ready and like the deal..

    good luck

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

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