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2014 Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

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Comments

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 12

    Just one dealer.... Keep on haggling at only 1600 below minus the 369 doc fee.. Get more dealerships involved. Make your best deal at months end if you could wait. NY/NJ market are not as good as we see in MA, Md, VA , FL, CA, or IL

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 12

    In NY/ NJ . I would try for another 500 dollars off . Getting below dealers involved for the immediate sale today, Tomm. or whoever bites first. Basically in NJ getting another 500 would be like washing out each dealerships high doc fee charge. Dealer could be Appling his 1k plus incentives to accommodate your price.. make dealer go into his pocket ..

    NJ= Auto- sport , Garden State, DCH. Paramus and Oldbridge , Madison, Hamilton, Joyce, Paul Miller, VIP, Burlington

    NY= Friendly, Atlantic, Huntington, New Rochelle, Yonkers and maybe BayRidge.

    shoot every one of the above mentioned a email with a new target price and your model telling each internet MGR......... You will buy today for xxx.... NY doc's are only 75 Dollars.

    Good luck.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Posts: 37

    Have an offer accepted for 2014 Accord EX-L 4 cyl non nav (MSRP 29060) for $23,900 + TTL. It's a lease so there was 850 lease cash and 500 loyalty rebate applied as well to achieve that price. I was shooting for $23750 net price and feel i could probably get there if i wait till month end, but im tired of going back and forth on this deal. Deal breaks down as: 25250 - 850 lease cash - 500 loyalty rebate = 23900 net price.

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 12

    Good Job, post ur State, and name of dealership.. after you purchase.

    Enjoy your new Accord

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Thanks Brian. I will haggle away and report back for feedback as well as providing info for other readers.
  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21

    Hi! In negotiations via email with a Delaware dealer for a 2014 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L w/Navi. for $26,632 (MSRP is like $30k). Dealer gave $3200 off + $500 for recent grad + $500 for Acura/Honda loyalty. 36 Mo. Lease, 15k mi/year, Only 1st payment due @ signing, $399/mo.

    Is this a deal? Dealer says MF is .00026. I was shooting for $300/mo since I am currently in a '12 Acura TL lease for $400/mo, 15k mi/yr. I did have a trade-in worth $3500 at the time. I really would like to save on the payment, and would prefer not to put money down. Think I can get it down to $300/mo? Dealer says if I pay tax/tags it'll drop the payment. Any suggestions on negotiating this further?

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910

    sweets1180,

    Wrong forum..... post in the Accord leasing forum.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21

    @brian125 said: sweets1180,

    Wrong forum..... post in the Accord leasing forum. Oops!! Thanks Brian!

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 12

    John I will repost detailing from last page.

    @bethpa said: Abro> abro74 said: Do not fear black paint anymore:)

    Just to touch on what @bethpa posted. I won't go into full detail. These items below will help protect and keep your paint and clear coat finish lasting and protected a lot longer.

    Darker color vehicles....... P21s wax. Zaino's is also very good wax but has steps to complete. read reviews on it.

    Clay bar car 1 or 2x a year. depending on your area .

    Buy a good car wash soap. I buy Pinnacle car wash . Never use dish soap

    Build up 4 to 6 layers of wax every year. This will protect the cars clear coat from the element.

    Buy a Corral, or Sea Sponges to wash car. These sponges trap the dirt which wont lead to micro scratches on your cars finish.. Never use a cheap sponge they are big offenders leaving fine scratches thru your cars paint . Always use 2 sponges for your car. 1 sea sponge for the trunk/ hood and upper doors. the other for lower door panels, bumper, grille etc. Wash wheels and wells last with a micro sponge. Sounds crazy and most people don't want to be bothered but this is how you keep your investment and paint job in showroom condition.

    Buy a Water blade to wipe off excess water after you wash and before you dry car.

    Dry excess water off car with either microfiber towels, or a Synthetic chamois absorber. Sold at Pep boys or Auto-zone.

    If you are a real nut like I used to be . Buy a high pw leaf blower to remove almost all water after you use the water blade. Then pull the synthetic absorber across the hood and truck. This will prevent any fine scratches that occur from the dirty towel/ or towel being rubbed across the paint.

    lastly buy a California duster to remove the light layer of dust on the vehicle in between washes. The Duster works really good and with its wax coating wont scratch your paints finish...

    Bottle of Spray detailer for very light dirt on car.

    Only go to hand wash car wash places that use micro towels. Try not to go when there are 50 cars on the line. Workers will wipe from the bottom of your car then dry the top hood, truck, etc leaving scratch marks from the dirty towels. Go early morning when not busy or late when the workers can take there time and do the right job.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • abro74abro74 Posts: 16

    @Bethpa and brian125; thanks so much for your detailing tips. Really appreciated.

  • abro74abro74 Posts: 16

    Have an offer of $26,000 ( with destination )+TTL+ 399 doc fees with for 2014 EX-L with navi. The dealership is in Virginia. I live in MD. I asked for the dealer cash discount but I was told they're not doing that. Dealer says that he's included the $500 loyalty cash on the quote. I asked him how he knew I have a honda already? The response was that chances are someone already has a honda or another car, so would benefit from the either loyalty or conquest cash. I told them $27,000 OTD gets the deal done. Is that a good deal?

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Posts: 37

    Deal is done. 2014 EX-L 4 cyl non navi, $24,400 incl 850 lease cash, plus 500 loyalty rebate for net sale price of $23900 +ttl. I leased the car for 2 years first payment only down, $347.50/mo

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910

    Gotta love these dealers.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • I'm in the Chicago area and I have a few questions. I've already got my initial quotes from 15 dealers. I'm holding off until the end of the month to really start negotiating. I'm getting pricing from a few of the dealers already at 2K below invoice without trying. Honda on Grand in Elmhurst is quoting me $25,745(EXL vehicle price incl dest)-1500(incentives)=$24,245 + 166 doc +TTL. How much more can I expect them to move at the end of the month? Seems like they are giving it all up now. Also, I read on the Honda website regarding the conquest cash, that you have to finance through Honda at 2.9% for 24 monthly payments. Is there a pre-payment penalty if you refi immediately, or is this a don't care? Also, I'm interested in getting some dealer options, like wheel locks, splash guards, wing spoiler, rear bumper applique. How do I determine the invoice price of dealer options? Thanks in advance!

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21
    edited August 13

    @sweets1180 said: Oops!! Thanks Brian!

    Hi @brian125! I am sorry, I know you told me I'm in the wrong forum, but you know so much and I'm worried. Everyone is talking about the total cost of the car, but I am trying to figure out how to get my monthly payment down to $300/mo. The dealer offered $399/mo which seems higher than ANYONE has posted in this forum for an Accord. I just don't understand why it's that high, and am not sure if I should negotiate the total price (as mentioned in the forum) or my payment. Obviously they move in tandem but the total price seems like a good deal ($4500 less than MSRP). Any help would be MOST appreciated. Also, the dealer said my trade isn't worth as much as the payoff. (payoff $22,600, trade-in $20,500)...But that's not included in his numbers so the payment will only increase. Should I call Acura Financial about this since I'm trying to stay with their brand? I'm sorry to ask so much of you, but no one I know REALLY knows how to negotiate or buy a car. They are all paying ridiculous payments for cheap cars!

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Posts: 37

    @sweets1180 said: Hi brian125! I am sorry, I know you told me I'm in the wrong forum, but you know so much and I'm worried. Everyone is talking about the total cost of the car, but I am trying to figure out how to get my monthly payment down to $300/mo. The dealer offered $399/mo which seems higher than ANYONE has posted in this forum for an Accord. I just don't understand why it's that high, and am not sure if I should negotiate the total price (as mentioned in the forum) or my payment. Obviously they move in tandem but the total price seems like a good deal ($4500 less than MSRP). Any help would be MOST appreciated. Also, the dealer said my trade isn't worth as much as the payoff. (payoff $22,600, trade-in $20,500)...But that's not included in his numbers so the payment will only increase. Should I call Acura Financial about this since I'm trying to stay with their brand? I'm sorry to ask so much of you, but no one I know REALLY knows how to negotiate or buy a car. They are all paying ridiculous payments for cheap cars!

    The reason everyone is talking about the price of the car rather than the payments is simple. If you focus on the one number that dictates the rest of the deal (sale price of the car), everything else falls into place. Focusing on the price alone removes the ability of the dealer to distract you with the payment while padding in extra profit. Using these forums to structure your potential deal is simple, and should take maybe an hour. All you need to know is the money factor and residual value for the lease term you're interested in, and use these forums to see where the best deals are coming in at for the model you're interested in.

    Example: I decided I wanted to lease my 2014 Accord EX-L 4 cyl non navi. for either 24 months 15k/yr. I know the residual in my area was 53% for 36 months and 60% for 24. I chose 24 months, so i'm at 60%/.00026 money factor. There is $850 factory to dealer lease cash, and the factory to consumer rebates you mentioned in your previous post.

    A quick search showed me back in late July (before the loyalty rebates went into effect) showed me that the floor appeared to be in the low 24K for my model. I settled on $24250 for my offer. I wasn't able to make a deal, even though i had 2 dealers accept my offer price.

    Fast forward to August, and now the loyalty and conquest rebates are out, which should take the price down another $500...BUT were no longer at the end of the month so the pressure to get sales in before month end isn't high yet. My work travel circumstances dictated making a deal now, or waiting until September when my color choice would likely be sold out.

    I offered my dealer $24400 - 500 loyalty for a price of $23900 +ttl (remember, less pressure to make sales mid month...could probably squeeze more out if i waited till the end), which was accepted.

    Using the leaseguide calculator and punching in my numbers (this is where you need to know the MF and residual, as well as MSRP) yielded a total payment of $347.50 for 24 months and $296.XX for 36 months. I walked out of the dealer with first payment only down, and $347.50/mo for 24 months. The numbers did vary by a few dollars, mainly because I had to estimate the fees in my calculations.

    My advice: Focus on the vehicle price, solicit as many dealers as possible, wait until the end of the month to close, and take emotion out of the process. Make it clear that you aren't setting foot inside that dealer until you have come to an agreement in writing (email). Use that calculator I mentioned to run hypothetical scenarios based on different sale prices and see what it does to the payment. Remember, it's just a car...the same one that all of the area dealers have. They aren't selling kidneys here.

    Good luck.

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21

    @loud0g40oz said:

    LOL! @Kidneys! Very true! Thank you for your advice. I have all of that info actually from the dealer. I am in DE...He says the RV is $15,725 (is that correct?). Money Factor is .00026. MSRP $30,835, with $4203 in discounts for a sales price of $26,632 (excluding tax, tags, and doc fee). Said fees add up to $1,774. When I plug these numbers in the calculator, the payment does come out about the same, but I'm still confused how some folks are paying $250/mo for Accords. Am I missing something? And then this doesn't include vehicle payoff...I still have to turn my current leased vehicle into Acura.

  • loud0g40ozloud0g40oz Posts: 37

    @sweets1180 said: LOL! Kidneys! Very true! Thank you for your advice. I have all of that info actually from the dealer. I am in DE...He says the RV is $15,725 (is that correct?). Money Factor is .00026. MSRP $30,835, with $4203 in discounts for a sales price of $26,632 (excluding tax, tags, and doc fee). Said fees add up to $1,774. When I plug these numbers in the calculator, the payment does come out about the same, but I'm still confused how some folks are paying $250/mo for Accords. Am I missing something? And then this doesn't include vehicle payoff...I still have to turn my current leased vehicle into Acura.

    If the residual is in fact 51%, in your state on this model then it's right. Go over to the lease forum and verify. Remember that it isn't $4203 in discounts...you have $1k in honda rebates and 850 lease cash. The dealer is actually only discounting $2353...on a $31k car...with the 2015 model about to be released. BTW, per Truecar, the invoice price on your model is $28544. So at the current price you're getting the car for $62 under invoice before the factory incentive and rebates are applied. There's more room in that deal...likely a lot more.

    The market is likely different in Delaware than California, but I would be looking for a price closer to $25k + TTL after all rebates and discounts. You have more rebates available than I do...I would have gotten $23400 net price after rebates if i had the college grad one too. If I were you, I would be after $1k lower price at minimum. Don't be afraid to re-engage dealers to go after the business. It's all free game until you sign on the line. On my deal, I had another dealer emailing even as I drove to sign the papers.

    Your MSRP is $1775 higher than mine was...even if you added the 1775 to my buy price of $23900, then subtract 500 extra rebate, you still get $25175 buy price. Don't focus on tax...that is what it is, and so is the license fee. Focus on the doc fee or any other fee you think may be inflated. And keep the trade value in a separate negotiation after the vehicle price is agreed on.

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21

    @loud0g40oz said:

    You are making my day! THANK YOU for your detailed reply. I understood everything you said, and will definitely follow your advice! So I should basically tell the dealer the Truecar value, and break it down like you did? Do you do that? Just flat out call BS? Or is there another rebuttal you suggest? (I understand if you don't have time to be my negotiation coach...I'm sorry for all of the questions)

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 13

    @sweets1180;

    I think...@loud0g40oz pretty much knock your question out of the park. Excellent posts.!!!!!

    Lets talk about getting that good price. Your in DE. Honda dealers wont price/ sell like in MD, VA., MA. CA. etc. My suggestion get below dealerships involved in the price wars. Maryland dealers will sell a lot cheaper than DE. You could do all your negotiating via email with the Int. depts. / manager in MD.

    Criswell, Pohanka, O'Donnell, Browns, Sport , Shockley, Jim Coleman.

    First 3 dealers sell a lot vehicles and wont play games. I have sent hundreds of Edmund buyers to these dealers I mentioned . Use them to your advantage. Some are close to you.

    Your target price to buy or lease this vehicle in DE is 1500 to 2k depending on your negotiating skills. Most folks are at 1500 below in DE.

    Your target price in MD should be 2k to 2500 below dealers invoice price which includes all incentives and rebates that apply to you. Excluding taxes, tags, and dealer doc fee charge.

    Once you have the correct leasing numbers.. Mf, Residual, cap cost, etc, find your lowest deal. Have you been reading my posts on buying. Pit one dealer against the next. the more dealerships you get involved in the price wars the better you will do. Use True-Car svc. as a pricing guide and not the final price. Use to your advantage against dealers closer to your house that you might want to lease from.

    Concentrate on getting the lowest agreed sale prices first. Then step 2- is the trade back. Do not mention your trade till after you get good pricing figures. . Once you have your 3 or 4 lowest prices at close to 2k below invoice or more then you proceed to finalize your deal with step 2. then step 3. etc.

    @sweets don't forget supply and demand plays a big part in the pricing games. Dealers that have limited stock wont give you pricing like another dealer with 8 models on there lot.

    So Get as many dealerships involved as far as your willing to travel and make your best deal out of the lot.. You still have 2 weeks before months end. That's when the real deals start. Its best to Negotiate thru this month and sign only when your ready and like the deal..

    good luck

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 13

    @lukin4adeal said: I'm in the Chicago area and I have a few questions. I've already got my initial quotes from 15 dealers. I'm holding off until the end of the month to really start negotiating. I'm getting pricing from a few of the dealers already at 2K below invoice without trying. Honda on Grand in Elmhurst is quoting me $25,745(EXL vehicle price incl dest)-1500(incentives)=$24,245 + 166 doc +TTL. How much more can I expect them to move at the end of the month? Seems like they are giving it all up now. Also, I read on the Honda website regarding the conquest cash, that you have to finance through Honda at 2.9% for 24 monthly payments. Is there a pre-payment penalty if you refi immediately, or is this a don't care? Also, I'm interested in getting some dealer options, like wheel locks, splash guards, wing spoiler, rear bumper applique. How do I determine the invoice price of dealer options? Thanks in advance!

    good question?

    Your negotiating skills, along with dealers supply and demand will be factors in getting close to 2500 below.

    Any deals at 2k below in the middle of the month are still good at the end. Unless dealer is telling you we need the sales numbers now. Which usually is not the case.

    Time is on your side. Make your best deal at months end. By having 15/ 20 dealers involved in the price wars will lead to better pricing. . I'm sure a handful might need end of the month sales quotas and that's when your deal just went from;

    Good to YESSSSSSSS.... I'm the man type of deal..

    Good luck

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21

    @brian125 said: sweets1180;

    Thank you so much! Ok, so I'm going to take your advice from a previous post and create a spreadsheet. I will hit the MD dealers asap. Just so I'm clear on the numbers, 2k-2500 below invoice in MD...If invoice on the car I want is $28,000, isn't that what this offer is? The sales price after rebates/discounts is $26,632. (IDK how much Honda cash/clearance rebates, but dealer said $500 for recent grad and $500 loyalty). Also, when you say get as many involved as possible, do I just tell one that the other beat them? Or am I copying sales managers on the same emails?

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 13

    Send out the same email to all dealerships. Example ; I am looking to lease a 2014 exl model, color etc... by the end of the month or will buy today if we agree on my price of 2500 below dealers invoice including incentives and destination charge Then put that number on the email. This makes for less confusion between you and dealer with price... . If we could come to a agreement on pricing I'm willing to make the deal today. First dealership to meet my price I will buy/ lease. Tell each dealership do you want the sale today meet my price.. . Stick to your guns on a certain target price. If you Can't get 2500 below then lower your target price to 2200 hundred below invoice or until you feel you made the best possible deal. Let your targeted dealers fight it out with price. unless a dealer agrees to your target price let the email play out for a few days or week. dealers will try to make you blink 1st.

    Take your time write out a quick to the point NO- nonsense email to send to all your targeted dealerships. This shows your in control not them. Your key to getting a better deal and leverage is Telling dealers...... IF you meet my price I buy/ lease today.. If dealers tell you they can do 2k below invoice price tell each one you will think over there offer but xxx price gets the deal done today.. Then move on .. play this game for 2 weeks or to you get the number you feel is a good deal.

    View lease incentives on Edmunds. write them down so you know what exactly your entitled to before negotiating. Just work on getting 2k to 2500 on your sale price and the lease numbers will do the rest to make the price equation .

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21
    edited August 13

    Gotcha! Thanks @brian125! Just one more question...Is the 2k-2500 price before my loyalty and recent grad discount? Do I wait to mention those after they bring the price down?

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 13

    Sweet,

    If you would like I will IM you later showing you how to get dealers by your home to make a better deal with you using the out of state dealers as your leverage.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • sweets1180sweets1180 DelawarePosts: 21

    @brian125 said: Sweet,

    If you would like I will IM you later showing you how to get dealers by your home to make a better deal with you using the out of state dealers as your leverage.
    Would definitely like!! But like AOL IM? I haven't done that in forever.

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910

    @sweets1180 said: Gotcha! Thanks brian125! Just one more question...Is the 2k-2500 price before my loyalty and recent grad discount? Do I wait to mention those after they bring the price down?

    Just work on your target price.. dealers will apply your incentives into your asking price anyway. When they ask tell them what applies to you. Buying this way will separate you from un--educated to Educated buyer. Dealer will recognize you and deal with you differently. Those above dealerships I posted sell cars.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910
    edited August 13

    If you click on your user Name here on Edmunds you could send out personal IM's to each other................ gotta run

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • rpizzutirpizzuti Posts: 3

    Had a surprising quote from a local dealer here in New England for a 2014 accord lx w/ standard trans. 18700$ including destination. Seemed like a crazy price for zero negotiations. Hell I haven't even went to the dealership yet. The main haggle will be my trade in but does this price seem too good to be true? (The civic quote was low too. 16400$ for an lx w/5 speed)

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,910

    That's called low ball offer. Luring you into the showroom.

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

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