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Kia Sedona (2005 and Earlier)

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Comments

  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    BD old friend,

    I just hit 59920 miles last week on my 2003 and had to take my car in for the 60k check up. A mere $1242 later I got the van back. (Ouch!) I don't have the invoice with me, but about $660 of that was the timing belt. Seemed ridiculous to me that they didn't have that priced in the 60k service...and the 60k service is mostly just fluids changed and "checks". Tensioner is best checked when they are changing belt out. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that changing that out about every other belt change (IE at 120k) is about right for most cars. 60k should be way too early to change it out...but then most American and Japanese cars get 100k between timing belt change outs.

    This is a must do, though. Keeps your warantee intact, and if the belt breaks, it will destroy your motor. Unlike my Suburu which broke 2x and suffered no damage, this one is an impact system.

    If I remember to check the bill, I will see if they did anything to the tensioner.

    BTW, I got them to replace the alternator with the tips from KIATECH at the same time (under warantee). It was hard to start under certain load conditions, and they tested it as defective.
  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    Andy, Relax, everything is working normally.

    When you use your remote to lock the doors, it arms the anti-theft system which is indicated by the short horn blast. If you unlock it manually, the system will activate, which blows the horn and kills the ignition. The remote deactivates it.

    Bottom line: If you use the remote to lock it, use the remote to unlock it. If you lock it manually, you can use either the remote or manual unlock.

    Enjoy your Sedona and welcome to the boards.
  • sockeye342sockeye342 Posts: 5
    60,500 miles
  • lynergylynergy Posts: 4
    I bought a 2004 Sedona Thursday but didn't take possesion until Friday. Now it's Sunday. I was told that it was just traded and the previous owners will bring the remote today. then tomorrow. Well, I think I get 72hours to return the car. Is this correct? (Alabama)And I think the dealer should order me a remote if the prev. owners don't bring over the remote. Did the 2004 come with a remote? Before I threaten to return the car tomorrow. If it did come with a remote, was there one or two? :confuse:
  • lynergylynergy Posts: 4
    Thanx. They weren't open today but tomorrow I'm gonna take them back their van unless they hand me two remotes. or get something in writing stateing when I will receive them. About the time in which I have to return the car; is my threat valid? Is it 72 hrs.?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Unless Alabama is different I don't think you have any grace period in which to return the car you bought by law. It might be that the dealer you bought from will allow it or may allow you to exchange it for another car on their lot within a certain time period. I'm fairly sure the dealer will supply you with remote openers rather than have you return the car, unless they made it clear to you at the time when you bought that the car was being sold without remote openers.
  • marriedmanmarriedman Posts: 16
    I'm experiencing problems with the drive tran and didn't know if someone has had the same trouble. When the van shifts from first to second it will shift hard and make a loud cluck that is followed by the van lurching. The rest of the gears shift smoothly. I thought it was low of trans fluid but the lurching will go away after the van warms up.
    I wouldn't be at all surprised it the transmission was starting to slip, but I know it wouldn't be covered by the warranty since I haven't changed the transmission fluid yet. The van only has 51K miles and I was going to wait and do it at 60K.
    Has anyone experienced the same trouble? If so, what was the resolution?

    Michael :sick:
  • lynergylynergy Posts: 4
    They keep telling me the man who traded the car in is going to bring keyless remotes back to dealership. It's been a week.
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    i have these comments ( based on my 2002 with 75K on it)

    1.) My owners manual says change the fluid every 15K miles to protect the warranty. ( I have been doing this. The fluid is $ 5 a quart and is unique to Kia and Mitsubishi.)

    2.) My transmission shifts from 1-2 in a lurch in cool weather and when I am first starting out.

    The transmission has a drain plug but it is a big mess.
    You will need a under the bed storage tote from Kmart or Target to catch the oil.

    You might be able to improve your shifting by converting to Synthetic Tranny Fluid.I am trying to see if the fluid called DEXRON III is equal to Diamond 3P fluid that Kia specifies.
  • marriedmanmarriedman Posts: 16
    Thanks for the reply, smulvey. I was reading the owners manual under maintenance section and see the changing of ATF. From reading that section looks like your only able to drain 2 quarts from system and 7 remains in converter since the capacity is 9 qt. Is 2 quarts about what your able to drain/replenish from transmission?

    I also found information in the Technician Times regarding Sedona transaxle shift concerns. KT2005061412, pretty much instructs how to reset the PCM adaptive shift logic.

    Thanks,
    Michael
  • boxwrenchboxwrench Posts: 55
    MM
    I've changed the fluid many times in my old Dodge CG by removing the return hose from the radiator trans cooler to the trans, and just pumping out the fluid by starting the car and runing it untill it just starts to dribble. Refill the fluid level and do it over again. After about 2 gallons, it starts to look bright red (Dextron). I've got 200K on this Tranny, and never been serviced yet. It's one way to remove all the fluid completely.

    Boxwrench
  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    Sorry, haven't logged on in a long time. Dexron III isn't the same fluid as the Kia Diamond stuff. I think you might be OK using AMSOIL synthetic, but I'd check. It is a little pricey, but believe it is waranteed for 100k miles. I converted my daily driver to it awhile back.

    We have a 2003 EX with 62K on it. Std problems like a/c and alternator, all fixed satisfactorily under warantee. I change my own oil/filter most times except when at the major service points.
  • Hi,

    I just purchased a 2003 Sedona myself and don't have the service manual. Could you send me the information about programming the keyless remotes? If I can avoid paying 40 at the dealership, that would be great.

    Thanks.
  • mingrammingram Posts: 1
    Hi. We recently purchased a 2004 Kia Sedona EX with the DVD entertainment system. We do not have the remote for it and before we spend $60 to buy a new one, does anyone know any alternatives for remotes? Can a universal remote be used on these, etc. Thanks so much. Meghan
  • I bought my wife a Sedona in 2002, used. Since then the van has had an intermittent problem with stalling / bucking while being driven.
    The car will just stall out or buck hard as if it wanted to stall but caught again.
    I've been to the dealer a few times and each time there is nothing in the computer memory or any lights on the dash to indicate a clear cut problem.
    Today I've had enough. I had my wife write down the mileage before she gave the service department the keys for the day.
    At the end of the day same old story, we can't find anything wrong and cannot re-create the problem.
    I call Kia customer service, not exactly the best people to deal with either and explain my concerns about the problem occurring while my wife and 4 year old son are driving along and the potential dangers.
    To make an already long explanation a bit shorter, I finally had the service man, who by the way only drove the vehicle for 7 miles today, agree to keep the vehicle a week or until the problem could be documented on their diagnostic machines. Oh and I also told him that mileage would be checked each day just to make sure that they are actually doing something about the problem.
    Well as you can expect they himmed and hawed a bit but agreed to do so.
    Has anyone else experience this sort of problem with their 2002 Kia Sedona or other years.
    Thanks for your time and patience.
  • My husband purchased this van for me on Feb. 13th as my V-day gift. When I picked it up at the dealership, it was as quiet as a church mouse. About 2 weeks later, it started making a god-aweful humming noise, sometimes sounds like it is coming from the front, sometimes it sounds like it is coming from the rear. Sometimes you can even feel a vibration on the floor from the loud humming. It goes away at about 65 miles and hour and is never on the same side of the vehicle. I have gone through 5 new GY Integrity tires and an alignment. I called the dealership, which by the way is 2 hours away, and they said that it sounded like an alignment problem. So, I got the alignment. It is still under warranty and I have an appointment at a different Kia dealership on Thusday and ANOTHER alignment tomorrow. The tires are wearing on the inside and outer rim of the tires, starting usually with the drivers side, front and rear tires. I do know a little about cars and can't seem to figure this one out. Iam not sure if it is a ball joint or wheel bearings. I am leaning away from wheel bearings because there is no grinding. I was hoping someone here could offer some advice as to what it might be. I have never had a car this new, with so few miles on it, nor a foreign made car, so all of this is foreign to me. HELP! I carry three kids with me daily and my hubby is a truck driver and is rarely home. So, I need some help. Thanks guys!

    Sweetness69 :( :sick:
  • This Technician Times you speak of, where do I find it?

    Thanks
    Jeff
  • ne03sedonane03sedona Posts: 15
    Hi y'all. Just thought I would let everyone know that I thought I was all set when the dealer replaced the front pipes of the rear coolant lines due to rust (see my MANY post on this). Wellll, guess again. I had another coolant leak in my driveway Saturday, took me a few min. to locate over the spare tire. You got it right, the damn metal coolant line. This time it is the one going over the reasonator, over the spare and up to the rear heater deck. I did the repair myself, as it was much easier than the front, rear lines, I will not return to the dealer for the same bad but new Kia piping. Now in doing this, I have literally had enough of this BS, so I inspected and found that the MIDDLE rear lines were very bad. Not rusted through though. So tonight I bought Kleanstrip Rust Converter and brushed and painted the middle line. I can post again to let you know if it works or not. As for the rear line, once I removed it, I was absolutely in awe of the damage and rust, almost every square inch, rusted through in 3 spots at the rear most 10mm bracket/screw. I have and will save this assembly, maybe for pricing etc. If anyone is interested to see the damage to a 3 year old (young) pipe, I can post a photo or 2. Too bad when the front lines went, I never inspected the rest, please do yourself a favor, it may save you a breakdown!
  • beyond_helpbeyond_help Posts: 110
    if these tubes were made of the proper material they would fail in ten years or more
    if kia were a decient company they would replace them at no cost, but as we know Kia is not a decient company, it is all about profit, profit, profit
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    Everyone thinks I am crazy , but my 2002 has 78K miles on it and I am my first set of Kumho tires that came pith the car. I run them at 40 PSI which is 4 pounds less than the maximum on the tire, which is 44 PSI.

    I switch from summer to winter tires so I estimate I have 40 K on these Kumho. I have had no tire wear on the edges like you say. Mine are even all across.

    your tires are most likely rated to 36 PSI , but your car door sticker recommends 28 PSI ( which is for smooth comfort. ) I would suggest running your tires at 32 PSI at least. Remember the Kia is a 4700 lb vehicle. It really should be on a truck tire since it gets loaded up like a truck much of the time with some families.

    As far as the noise, that is very consistent with tire problems and tires that have a knob sticking out due to wear and alignment. You may need to have the alignment shop present out the report from the computer that tells what the wheels are set at and what the factory setting is . This is measured in Degrees Camber and Degrees caster. Maybe if you sound like you know something they will dig a little deeper and fix the issue.

    I have had a number of Taurus cars that were actual built crooked by Ford and we had to go into a lot of trouble to get them aligned . It took several trips.

    The car parts vendor for suspension , Moog , sells caster/ camber] adjusting " cams " for the technicians to add either 1 Degree or 2 degrees additional adjustment to the car. If they do not \ave these in stock when you get your car aligned they will do a crappy job and send you on your way.

    I am sure you are very frustrated.
  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    When did they change to 28psi? My EX door plate is 35psi, but it has the Hankooks on it as well. Like you I run winter tires. We have around 62k on the van, and have had the winter tires for two years now. Probably 50k on the Hankooks. We will replace them at the end of the summer when the winter tires go on.

    Only disadvantage to running higher pressure is that you will decrease your safety margin for heat build up in the summer. Also increases chance of hydroplaning, but difference between 35 and 40 prob won't be that much.

    BTW, I'm very pleased with the Nokia all weather tires I run in the winter on the van. Like them so much that I replaced my commuter car tires with them.
  • monty2222monty2222 Posts: 48
    I have a 2005. Could be wheel bearings. There is a recall on them for water intrusion. Also mine have been replaced for noise. Of course I have also had my front axles replaced also for noise.
  • marriedmanmarriedman Posts: 16
    Jeff,

    Go to www.kiatechinfo.com and register your email address (free). Once logging into the site your able to view all TSB's, campaigns, and shop manuals for the Kia cars.

    Thanks,
    Michael
  • our 2002 kia sedona ex (doesn't deserve capitals) has been doing the same thing for the last 2 1/2 years. We have even switched kia dealerships and no luck. they have had it in their shop for the last week with one of their guys driving it and of course the whole time it doesn't act up. They have "fixed it" so many times we just don't know what to do. we are past the warranty (108,000 km) but they have kept it under warranty. How nice of them.
  • vanphanvanphan Posts: 41
    I'm having a hard time finding Mitsubishi Diamond SP-111 transaxle fluid (as required in the manual) for my Sedona from anywhere but the Kia dealer. At 62k I need to service it again. At 30k it was serviced with Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I assumed VIOC knew what they were doing. I'm wondering now if I did the right thing. But I've had no transmission problems. The places I've contacted said they would do the work but would have to order the fluid from Kia. Does anyone know of an aftermarket ATF compatible with Mitsubishi Diamond SP-111?
  • vanphanvanphan Posts: 41
    The manual for my 02 Sedona calls for ethylene glycol-based coolant. I understand this is referred to as "green". I've seen other types referred to as "yellow" and "orange". Prestone Extended Life states it's for "all" transmisions, is green in color and has ethylene glycol as the main ingredient.

    Does anyone know if Kia requires the original green only or if a hybrid like PEL will also perform as well?
  • Has anyone found any maintenance manuals or anything that will help with changing the spark plugs. I have not been able to find anything.
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    Hey- be sure you do not put Antifreeze into your van's transmission.

    The antifreeze goes into the RADIATOR system.

    The Transmission gets the RED OIL.

    The Radiator gets the GREEN fluid.
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    Hey - Spark Plug man!

    Try this.
    Remove the plastic engine cover.
    Get some WD40 and clean up the three front plug wires.
    Then lift them off and you will see the plug.

    Don't get dirt down in there when you take the plugs out.

    Put some never sieze on the threads of the new plugs. Just a tiny amount to wet them gently so they do not cross thread on installation.

    You can do the front three plugs this way.

    If you want to do the back ones buy an engine gasket set since you will need to remove the Intake manifold and replace the plugs and the put the manifold back in.

    Check the Kia Tech website , they put the manuals online for customers at no charge.

    These are aluminum cylinder heads. Use proper care when putting the plugs in.

    They cost a bundle to repair.
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