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Comments
ABS and Sunroof
MSRP $23770, paid $22344 less $2000 rebate. After Trade Allowance, Taxes were about $525 (2.75%). Four year tag etc $125, dealer doc fees $60.
Current Mileage -- 112. We've had the van for three days. Routine Driving will be approx 25 miles a day, although this will be our vehicle for long trips as well.
Can't tell you about efficiency and no visits back other than paperwork related issues.
What can I say, I like the price and warranty. A full spare is a nice touch as well, and I like being able to pull seats out one at a time.
In a future Sedona, I'd like a little more cargo space behind row 3, maybe an Oddesy-like well, but I'd want to keep the removable split bench.
If there was only a standard warranty, and the price to me was $25,000 (After rebate), I would have shopped other models more aggressively, and I probably wouldn't have gone with the Sedona.
Can anybody tell me how to connect the Top Tether of a child seat with LATCH system in the Sedona?
I am unable to find the anchor point for the top tether. My User’s Manual doesn’t mention it and my dealer is unable to tell me. Does the Sedona actually have one, if yes, where? Or does it has to be installed as an aftermarket item?
Hopefully somebody can answer this question. I am a Dutchman living in Italy and here in Europe this type of child seat is very very rare, contrary to the US.
Unfortunately it is almost impossible to use a Universal-type child seat that uses the car’s seat belt because of the extreme length of the buckle. It sits too high above the car seat and interferes with the child seat’s integrated hooking points. Haven't found one, yet.
I would like to use the lower anchor points of the Isofix system but the ONLY child seat available in Europe with this system requires the Top Tether when used in the Sedona. But nobody can tell me how! Britax in the UK sells the seat and the tether but they are not answering my e-mail requesting instructions.
Please help!
By the way, the Sedona is called Carnival in Europe (except in the UK) and has either a V6 2.5L petrol or 2.9L diesel engine. Since two weeks I own the oil burner and have just covered 1000 miles with it. Happy so far.
Looks like the "Kia Sedona" word is getting out around here :-)
- ~$23K
- ~10,500 miles
- 15-16 city, 22-23 all highway
- 1, 1 pending for seatbelt bolt recall and:
Ash Tray
TSB on cooling fan noise
Keyless entry receiver grounding
Rear window washer nut
Front end noise
2nd row head rests
- No. of dealer visits 2: Cold hesitation TSB and electrical glitch in driver door
- Too many outstanding features to list
- Most disliked feature: Back hatch; the seals are too good - need door/window open to close it.
- Desired feature: Automatic climate controls
I was told that they have seen several already with this problem. - not so good news!
I will let you know what actually happens.
1/31 northern Ky
'03 EX cloth seats moonroof no spoiler
21,500 before TTL no rebate 0% for 24
I believe prices have dropped since then.
Also I was always more comfortable working with the out the door number. Otherwise, they start throwing destination charges, advertising exp, etc. at you just to muddy the waters.
Personally, I like the 0% for 60. Apparently, grandtotal has worked the numbers. Your choice.
I don't know what if any bids you have made. I would see who wants to play.
Bid them out the door (21,250 + 150 title/lic +
sales tax on 21,250) whatever that number is on the phone.
See what happens.
In January, 21,500 was a reasonable price for my Sedona - not the all-time champ but reasonable. 22,300-400 was reasonable for your vehicle.
But prices began to decline in advance of the war - haircuts all around - 750 to in many cases 1,000 off in March.
Now in April the war has gone well and 0% for 60s abound - what is that doing to floor traffic?
You are the judge here since you actually are visiting showrooms in person. If you ARE the floor traffic, then March prices are probably still in play. If, on the other hand, 20 shoppers are milling around the floor, maybe you are back to January prices.
My suggestion of 21,250 is a March type price - you can always come up to January if need be, but it is hard to reverse the process.
This is why I was curious yesterday about what your bid was in relation to the dealer's asked of 22,500.
Also, always keep mindful that when the salesman says that 22,500 is their sales manager's final offer that is code language meaning that they can go lower.
The hitch was Class III from hitches-forless.com and the cost was $109.95 and then I added the t-one connector (wiring)(31.59), ball mount ($22.47), hitch balls (20.43), receiver tube cover (9.93) for a grand total of $216.66 with shipping.
I have not installed the wiring yet, but the hitch is on and functional. I'll let you know how the wiring goes.
How many times must a customer bring in a vehicle with a seat belt that does not ratchet/lock (after belt pulled all the way out) before the dealer will fix it? First time, dealer said 'checked seat belt and is performing to factory specs.' Second time I actually showed the advisor the faulty belt and a working belt. I left it up to him to relay the knowledge to the technician. Somewhere, the ball was dropped.
The other one grinding me is the keyless entry. I have explained the existence of this grounding plate replacement procedure twice now, and still they have done nothing.
Last visit was on a Friday and advisor had the afternoon off. He obviously made no attempt to get our concerns resolved. Nor did he follow up to tell us our van was 'ready.'
End of rant. Sorry. We really like our van but the service has been predictably pathetic. Not because it's a new Kia vehicle, but simply because it's a new vehicle.
If this were me, I would by-pass the service manager and go directly to the GM or the owner and deal with him. Believe me, HE wants to keep your business. I have done this in the past and it works.
Good luck.
The answer is in the forum, if you will. Sidenote: Boy, have I been where you are at the moment. Easier said than done, unsolicited advice: Don't take it and don't let it get you down
Cut and paste the letter you just wrote and fax/mail it in a letter form to the General Manager of the dealership - forget the service department. Put a cc: at the bottom to Kia USA, and send it only if they don't call you up in 2-5 business days to get these issues resolved.
It's quick and easy - and will take less than 10 minutes without having to leave your house.
Steve, Host
Even with importation fees it is a savings.
Next you can try the New Jersey area KIA dealers that are selling at $ 16,999 for a New Sedona LX with standard options like Front & Rear Air and CD player, power locks and windows. Happy Shopping! Don't pay retail. Why let the Canadians get all the low prices.
1.) You may have the KUMHO truck tires. Check the sidewall for the MAX inflation PRessure. They are tested to 44 PSI by the DOT. I have been running mine at 44 PSI. It works great and the car handles better. Truck tires are good for a 4700 lb vehicle.
2.) OIL- use Synthetic 5-50 W Castrol or similar. This helps too.
3.) Air Filter- change at 10K miles or even convert to a foam filter.
4.) Make sure you keep the OD ( Overdrive ) Light OFF the dashboard. Anytime it is on your milage will fall greatly. If you share the car with another drive teach them about this issue or they will kill your milage.
5.) Take out any junk you do not need. IE - Firewood , sandbags etc.
6.) Be sure to follow instructions and use the DRAIN PLUG on the transmmission to change out the fluid. You MUST use the Diamond Star transmisssion fluid sold under the KIA name at the dealership. You will need about 8 quarts. It is about $ 5 a quart. Use a BIG drain pan. It is messy.
These steps have allowed me to get 25 MPG ROUTINELY on the NY State Thruway ]oute# 90 from Buffalo to Albany.
Re: tire pressure - just because the tire itself can take 44 psi does not mean that is a good recommended tire pressure for those tires on a particular vehicle. Kia recommends 35 psi front and rear. 44 psi is quite a bit higher, and I would not feel comfortable going that high. I did increase from our standard 35-36 psi to 40 psi for a recent trip in which we carried 6 adults and their weekend bags, to handle the extra weight.
Re: transmission fluid - I have not looked into this, but I doubt there is anything magical to the Kia-branded trans fluid.
Re: 5W50 Castrol Syntec - why do you recommend it instead of other synthetic oils? And why do you recommend a synthetic with such a wide viscosity spread?
You have already wasted enough time and patience on bad and inattentive technicians at the shop plus the fact that you spend an additional day or two in a bad funk after each failed appointment.
Unless it has become your life's mission to enlighten dealership owners on the shortcomings of their errant service departments, move on to someone who can get the job done.
If things are properly handled at the new dealer, then would be a good time to write a letter to the first dealer's owner, describing the highlights of your adventures.
Good luck.
Here's my saga: Made a deal for 22,300. When signing the paper work, the price was now 23149. This included 349 prep and the additional $500 would be taken off after taxes...the dealer"gave" me a $500 coupon. The $2000 rebate would also be taken off after taxes were added. Is this correct for N.Y.?
If the $2500 is taken off the top,(which is how I thought rebates work), my out the door price would be 20,649 which sounds okay. I was also given a 3.99% finance rate for 60 months since my credit score was off by about 10-15 points. Last time I spoke with the dealer, without any prompting I was told the finance rate was 3.74. Seems like there's some more wiggle room here.
The out the door number includes everything in one chestnut (advertising, dealer prep, destination, sales tax.) By using it, you simplify the game that they are playing on you now where they throw this new number at you and then that new number until you can't figure the forest for all the trees.
If 22,300 is your number, then tack on the sales tax amount, subtract 2,500 in rebates, and the resulting number is your out the door - and not a dime more for anything.
You can change my last line to read: If 22,300 is your number, then subtract 2,500 in rebates, tack on the sales tax amount, and the resulting number is your out the door - not a dime more for anything.
It is your number - throw it out there and see if the dealer is willing to salute it.
Let's face it - they are going in your direction. You started at 23,500, then 22,500, and now 22,300 - who knows?
Changed the oil after 6 mos; didn't quite make it to 3K miles. I use 6 mos or 5K miles, whichever first. Will see what the lab thinks.
Made an appointment on Friday for the following issues:
Seatbelt bolt recall; TSB on a/c cooling fan noise; fix both 2nd row headrests; fix ash tray lid that does not stay closed; replace rear window washer nut cover; front end struts thunking - replace strike plate; fix keyless entry working distance-- replace receiver grounding plate.
I'm going to try to remember to ask about the ac filter and the cabin air filter, too, when I drop it off.