Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1103104106108109247

Comments

  • I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.0. It died on me and it tested out that the crank sensor needed replacing. Took it to a AAA shop and had it replaced..$350.00 Canadian. Made it home, but it ran like crap several days later, missing and such. Took it to 3 different shops, and they replaced everything possible, including the last shop who replaced the crank sensor again..a NAPA brand one. Thought the problem was solved until I tried to pass people, and it started missing again under engine load. Both crank sensors left my vehicle running like crap in different conditions, even after spending a total of $1500 to this point. Read on here someone said to replace sensitive parts, like a crank sensor, with FACTORY PARTS. After deciding to spend another $123 for a Chrysler made crank sensor and installing it myself, the Jeep has run PERFECTLY for the last 8000 miles. Spend a couple dollars more for these type of parts...it's worth every cent in the long run.
  • i have a 2004 jgc and when i shift to reverse it sounds like a dying dog..Dealer said that was normal does any one else have this prob..
  • tanortanor Posts: 1
    Greetings,
    MY 98 JGC is drawing back when i'm on the gas at around 70 mph...like it stops getting gas it just seems to stall out..it usually ( i say usualy but this has happened only twice to me but both times within this past week..this is a new condition)will "take a breath" and then continue driving down the road, however when my wife was driving today she said it stalled out completely...is this fuel pump or injector related or god forbid tranny...any suggestions please? someone suggested water in the lines...any other thoughts thanks in advance ~Tanor
  • I have a 95JGC with the same problem. I have a Haynes book which I've had since I bought the vehicle in '95. It says to check the thermostat and cooling sensor etc. I'am going to try these remedies and I'll let you know what works. (that Haynes book is probably the best book I've ever purchased)
  • This noise sounds very similar to what i call: time to spend some cash noise.
    I believe what you are hearing is the catalytic converter(located on the exhaust, before the muffler), going kaput.
    To check if in fact this is the problem, let the engine idle, and go underneath the vehicle, passenger side(where the c.c is located, most times) and give it a good kick. If you hear the tell-tale "rattle" that you have been hearing, then that is the culprit.
    Catalytic converters have "sponge-like" packing inside them,that when they start to wear out, they rattle. This noise will become more pronounced as time goes on.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I do believe the bearing in your water pump is going out.
    This noise that you hear(belt squealing) is a tell-tale sign that the water pump is ready to be replaced; the only other way to tell is to check by hand(when the motor is warm and NOT running) the water pump to see if there is any fluid leaking out from eithier "weep" hole located on the housing on top, and bottom.

    If this is not the problem, then you have a pulley issue that needs to be addressed.
    As for the rotor problem, this a problem that is quite common in the year of your JGC, and I think that there is a recall on your particular year to address this. If there is not, then replacing the rotors with an after-market product will probably be your best bet. The GM rotors are of poor quality, and wrong metal alloys configuration, thus resulting in warped rotors all the time.
    P.S. when replacing the rotors, replace the brake pads also.Replacment rotors for your unit come in two types, normal and high end; DOn'T cheap out.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • This could be from a few different problems....
    I would suggest that you take the vehicle to a reputable tranny specialist, and have them check the forward and reverse bands (these can be adjusted manually), and have them change the filter(as a dirty filter starves the unit of oil). If the vehicle does not move at all in any gear, then your transmission is toast. A rebuild is costly, but if your going to keep the vehicle, this is the route i would take. A good used tranny is also what i would call a good investment, considering that you keep the maintaince up on it.
    P.S. The bands(as mentioned above) are to be tourqed to a specific setting. Almost always these torque settings are in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds, and any mechanic or otherwise that tells you different than that, should NOT be trusted. Torqueing these bands incorrectly can, and will result in un-repairable damage.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8
  • The first thing that you should look at is the shifter linkage that connects the shifter to the transmission. You may have to take the center console off and to get at this. It sounds like this is binding up on you, and needs to be re-greased, or just loved a little with wd-40. The linkage should be inspected from the shifter, all the way to where it enters the tranmission, as a damaged or bent section will probably be the culprit.

    Hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Yes too much voltage. Connect a voltmeter to the blower motor connector. Move the blower switch through each of it's positions and see if the volts change with each setting. The high postion will bypass the resistor and supply a full 12 volts. Most times the problem is the switch itself. Connect one end of a jumper wire to the terminal of the switch with voltage. Connect the other end to each one of of the terminals that supply voltage to the resistor block. If the motor operates normally, replace the switch.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I have the same year and problem? I have noticed if my idle is at about 8000 to 9000 it doesn't drop that low to cause the check guages light to come on. It seems it is a true "Grimlin" and it never happened to me beore. I have 77,800 on mine.

    :confuse:
  • im 17 and just bought a 97 limited grand cherokee yesterday i want 2 shift it into low 4x4 and it grinned. i had it in park wen i tried to shift it. im brand new at owning a jeep. is there a point i need to pull the lever past? or does it need to be in neutral? if someone can explain to we what i gada do to shift it to 4x4 low that would be great
  • Thanks for the tip trickster! When I had it at the dealership this past week they were not able to "re-create" the noise, go figure. I took the mechanic for a quick drive and whenever we stopped, it wouldn't make it then either. I am taking the GC back after the Holiday because they did determine I needed a new power steering pump. Of course, it has made the same noise ever since I brought it back home. I'll pass your comments on to the service dept. and see if they can't get it right this time.
  • kmack1, a similiar thing happened to me except at a slower speed.(luckily). It turned out to be my harmonic balancer. Picked one up at the auto parts for about $60. Not to hard to replace it. Hope this helps out
  • torney

    I replaced the thermostat and now I have heat. The inside of the housing was pretty gunked up plus the themostat was pretty rusted. (it's been sitting for almost 2 years) I suggest change out your thermostat first then try your cooling sensor. Good luck
  • do u hav to back the jeep up for it to engage into 4x4 low i finaly figured out how 2 shift it but now it wont engage any idea what im doin wrong? :confuse:
  • The following is a list of what all my temperamental baby likes to do at different times, and in unison...The consensus seems to be that it is either in the passenger door sensor workings somehow, or it's a ground, we're kind of running out of ideas though...HELP, please?! It would be greatly appreciated:
    1.My ac on/off button turns itself on and off, I thought it was the Jeep engine circulating, and I'd simply cut the ac back on, but the guy that made these copies didn't think so, said it was messing up too.
    2.My keyless entry, with the alarm, goes out.
    3.All but my door will stop responding to the lock/unlock switches commands, and only mine will work my door.
    4.The dimmer switch/interior lights on/off switch will make the interior lights come on in any position but absolute off, even in the mid switch part, meant to dim/brighten my dash lights.
    5.The right side of the Jeep's windows will completely stop working.
    6.Right front door sensor- sometimes it won't read door is open at all, more often, if the door is opened once the key has even been switched forward-like to listen to radio AND get the air to blow- it will read that the door is ajar until I stop, put the car in park, cut it off, and start it again.
    7.May actually have been very first problem- may be unrelated- when my foglamps are on, sometimes she can't switch into high-beams until I disengage the foglamps.
    8.Right side-view mirror won't work, which may have been done by a friend who wouldn't listen when I told him not to even START to take my passenger door panel off...
    9.I'm 85-90% sure that my rearview mirror is stuck in the constant "dim" or greenish dimming shade mode, though I haven't slowed down to shine a light on its sensor and check.
    10.My right rear door's lock -when my power locks are working- refuses to lock or unlock, when I press the switch about 90% of the time, and any time I press the button to lock or unlock the doors, she makes this loud buzzing sound as you hear the lock try to work.
    11.I've witnessed the glovebox light to not work (not the bulb), and I'm pretty sure the ashtray light has done it too.

    These often happen in groups:
    #2(keyless), 3(door locks), 4(rt windows), and 6(rf door sens) tend to happen together...
    #6(rf door sens) and 4(dimmer/inter. lights) are best friends, one doesn't show itself for long before the other!
    #1(ac), 8(side view mirror), and 9(rearview) all happen BY THEMSELVES...
    #10(back right door lock) is almost always guaranteed to be present, other symptoms or not...
    #7(foglamps/brights) almost always meant my break light would start to act up.
    #11 has been a more recent development, it seems to happen when it wants to once the others have been on constant "fritz" at that time.

    Other:
    Basically, if most things are working, specifically the passenger door windows, no one is to open a door, specifically the passnger door, or cut the engine off without rolling up the windows first, because odds are, by the time you shut that door, or cut the ignition back to battery power, the windows will no longer be working.

    I appreciate anyone who takes the time to read this, I'd really like to have an idea of where to start looking to try and trouble-shoot.

    Thank you ever so much!
    Lauren
  • Thanks m8!!

    I will do that. I am also taking in to a great transmission place and having all the fluids/filters changed. If I can't fix it, I will give them your reply. Thanks loads for the input!

    :D :D :D
  • This sounds like you have an trouble code stored in you ECM, or just bad programming. Take your vehicle to a jeep dealership and ask them to have the jeep put on a scope to check your ECM for any stored trouble codes, and to reset the On-Board Diagonostics (OBD)
    If you have had any after-market parts installed lately ie: car alarm, remote starter,.. ect then these part(s) can have an adverse affect on the ECM code, or programming.
    You may have to have the ECM wiped clean and re-booted with fresh programming. If any after market parts were installed, they may not be compatible with the code, or programming of the ECM, resulting in multiple failures of systems on the vehicle.
    Also have the tech at the dealership do continuity test for ground, and 12 volt, to see if you might have a bad ground, or an open circuit.Always pick the brains of the techs, to find out if, they have heard of this, or similars problems before, as this may give you another avenue of help against your problem.Unforunately, the techs at the dealership, are your best friends with this type of problem(s), and they don't come cheap.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • Sound like one of your sensors are going out. I would defenitly go purchase a hanynes repair manual for your particular year and model; spend somtime reading the section about checking the On Board Diagnostics for the sensors. This is easy and everything you need to know is right at your fingertips.
    If your check engine/service engine soon light is on, or comes on, then a sensor needs to be replaced. When a sensor goes out, or is about to go out, then your problem is a tell-tale sign that sensor(s) replacment is nessasary.
    Want the easy, more expensive way out? Take it to a dealership, and have them put it on a scope and reset the codes for you, after they changed the sensor(s).

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • I have that same problem; unfortunately, I am scared to find out what it is.
Sign In or Register to comment.