Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1104105107109110165

Comments

  • I just bought a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, the keyless remote has stopped working and the key Never manually opened the door anyway. After reading these post's I assume it's the chip in the remote. I am going to call the dealership tomorrow..anyone else have any idea's, I already replaced the battery and that did not work.
  • I have been at Nissan and had a Maurano and had just as many problems with it and Nissan just like Jeep were no help. Pick a Toyota or Honda. They might be plain but reliable.
  • I purchased a 2005 JGC and I have been having these sort of problems since 4000 Miles. They keep telling me there have never seen problems like these and have done nothing. I have no letter of a class action though, am I missing something? Please let me know.
  • I also live in NY and have purchsed a 05 JGC Limited in August of last year and have taken it in several times with ideling issues and also with stalling issues. They cannot replacate the issue and have done nothing I am really getting annoyed and would like to take similar steps if possible. Any advise on a lawyer or steps?

    Any help would be great.
  • 93 GCJ. When engine is running, I will lose ground to fuel pump and power to fuel pump relay, at the same time. Main computer has been replaced, no change. Suggestions?
  • I have a 1999 JGC. When I use the heater it will only get luke warm. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator. If I start it up and keep reving it up, I will get heat, but once I start driving I lose it. Also, the A/C will only get cool. The blower seems to work. Any ideas?
  • dandgdandg Posts: 86
    I think thats a good move looking for another one (or maybe a Toyota-Honda) The Viscous coupling is about 600 wholesale from Jeep dealer as I recall I was able to find a after market one from a factory that rebuilds transfer cases and thing it was 350-400.It take about 30mins for a tech to put it in,the t case does not have to come out,they just remove the back of the case and swap out the coupling.If you end up getting a jeep and it has that problem shop around and see if you can find a good deal.We sued to charge 750 for the after market one installed and warranty.
    HTH
  • This seems like an odd one but I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. 160K+ miles and still runs decent. In cold weather though, it has a hard time shifing out of 2nd gear. I generally have to spped up, then slow down a few times in order to get it to shift out of 2nd. In the summer and fall, when it is warm, no problems. As is it starting to get cold, I am anticipating problems. Any ideas?
  • I bought a Jeep 4 months ago and within 4 weeks of buying it the battery was flat. The garage put a new battery and this has now gone flat. They tested the alternator and this is OK and say they can't find any reason why the battery would go flat. Has anyone experienced the same or have any ideas?
  • Just bought a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee... How can I turn off the seat belt reminder chime??? Looked in manual. Does not give any solutions... Can any one please help!!!!!!!!!!
  • I have 01 JGC 4WD and just had all four rotors replaced. Before I took it to the shop and even after the rotor replacement, I get a sound coming from the front like a baseball card stuck in the spokes of a bike tire whenever I press the brake pedal. Everyone I have talked to just gives me blank looks and the two shops I have went to say that they cant find anything wrong. Please help.
  • I too have had this intermittant stalling problem on my 96 JGC over the last 18 months and I believe I have the solution for ALL those out there with the same problem. I've replaced all the usual suspects: 3 PCMs, 2 Coils, 2 Crank Sensors, distributor, main power wiring harness, 2 fuel filters, checked all the grounds.... I kept getting the error code P0351 Ignition Coil #1 primary circuit and the tech kept telling me that the Coil was bad. Long story short the Stealership's PCM didn't fix it, their Coil didn't fix it...so they put me in a new Commander for a week and low and behold they found the problem. Somewhere in the wiring from the ignition coil to the PCM there was a short...so instead of replacing that whole wiring harness they just ran a wire (maybe a ground) directly from the coil to the PCM and IT IS FIXED!!!!! Hope this helps...
  • bdutton: see my post #3348 for a possible solution to your stalling problems...after changing everything and spending a bundle...I finally found a solution for the stalling.
  • I too have a 94 GJC laredo and have found that I had oil in my air filter. I changed this and also pit it into the shop for a new cadillac convertor to be put on due to trying to stall when going up hills and sometimes just while accelerating, also acting as if not getting good ventilation. I had before this changed the coil and put new battery terminals on the battery. I am getting frustrated due to my problem still occurring. What do you think, could it be the ccv hose as you explained? I dont want to spend to much more money on it and also tired of searching for the right solution. Please reply back soon and let me know what you think.
  • If you feel a pulsing when applying the brakes, the rotors are warped...99% of the time it is the front rotors. Have them replaced, and then go easy on the brakes as much as possible. 1999-2004 Grand Cherokees have a big problem with warping the rotors, and there is no solution except to fix it when it happens.
  • Most of the new Jeep vehicles (Grand Cherokee and Commander) with the 4.7L engine are having an intermittent stalling problem. I feel it is idle-control related. There is NO solution at this time. Jeep engineers are aware of the problem. My prediction is that there will be a PCM flash (reprogramming the engine computer) in the future. Until then, sorry to say, quit stressing out, please be patient.
  • Please fasten your seatbelt to silence the chime.
  • There is no fix for this yet...I am hoping that DaimlerChrysler will come out with a bulletin soon, or maybe a recall. Have to wait and see.
  • I have the best fix for the clogged a/c drain...I did it to my 95 Grand. Remove the right front tire. Unbolt the brake line/wheel speed sensor wiring from the body and move it aside. Use a high speed cut off wheel to open a square hole in the frame to provide access to the evap drain. You will have to logically estimate where to begin cutting. Start with a fairly small hole and shine a light inside until you find the drain. Enlarge the hole as needed. Your Jeep dealer has a rubber hose-type drain tube for Jeep Wrangler...it is probably 6 inches long and sort of "L" shaped. Very inexpensive. Put this drain tube on and run the a/c...you should feel a small amount of air coming out, along with water. If not, spray your garden hose up the tube to dislodge the debris. The drain tube hidden in the frame is just a crappy design. Consider it re-engineered.
  • Those oil filter adapters are very difficult to remove. I usually use an air-hammer with a chisel bit to cut a small notch, then use a flat bit to rotate the big torx. Once you get it to turn a little, then you can use normal means to remove it. The o-ring kit is very inexpensive and will stop the leak. It is not related in any way to the PCV system as someone else replied.
  • As far as your alarm problem, the easiest thing you can do is get a new remote and program it...they are not cheap...check ebay. You need to replace the DISARM SWITCHES...there is one in each front door. They are attached to the lock cylinders inside the front doors. When you put the key in the door and turn it, the disarm switch tells the computer to disarm the alarm. It is common for these switches to fail or only work intermittently.
  • Also...try reconnecting the battery with the key in the 'on' position...that might allow you to get the engine started.
  • Be advised that all PCMs (engine computers) are under warranty (federal regulations) for 8 years or 80,000 miles.
    See your dealer if you are less than 8yr/80k
  • I think you need to replace the pump again---this time get one from the dealer. There is only one pump for your vehicle and they are readily available.
  • 1999-2004 Grands have a problem with the factory battery cracking at the negative post, which causes acid to leak out and the terminals to corrode. The corrosion causes the bolt/nut in the cable end to sieze up, and when you get the battery replaced, the cable end cannot be loosened or tightened properly. So many starting problems are caused by loose and corroded cable ends. If you have 2 pair of Vise-grip pliers, you can remove the corroded bolt/nut and thoroughly clean the cable ends with baking soda or battery cleaner. Use and old toothbrush or wire brush. Let the cable ends soak in a baking soda/water solution overnight if possible. Get new bolts and nuts from a hardware store and install so you can properly tighten the battery connections. THIS IS SO IMPORTANT...the battery is the heart of your electrical system. I see vehicles towed in all the time, the only problem being poor connections at the battery.
  • Assuming your battery connections are clean and tight, it is probably the starter, especially if you have the 4.7L engine. I have seen it many times.
  • replace the vacuum check valve---it is in the vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold to the firewall where the vac line goes thru the firewall to the a/c system
  • It is probably sun damage, especially if they feel rough to the touch. They can be polished, but it usually doesn't last long. Replace them, and your front end will look like new.
  • Where about is the a/c drain on the frame located?
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Just do a search under A/C drain and you will get a whole bunch of messages on this problem. The drain exits the passenger compartment into the inside of the frame rail on the passenger side just forward of the firewall. It is almost impossible to see and is impossible to reach or clean from outside the vehicle without drilling a larger access hole in the frame. It is MUCH easier to access from inside the vehicle under the dash on the passenger side just above the footwell. Buy yourself a SMALL rubber plug and then drill a hole in the center of the round plastic drain area you can see inside the car. You will have good access to clean the drain and will be able to do it again later easily if need be. Do the search. As I recall someone posted a pretty good illustration of what you need to do.
Sign In or Register to comment.