Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

1114115117119120165

Comments

  • jmp54jmp54 Posts: 6
    Yeah I happen to think that it is. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee Ltd with the 4.7 liter high output and the engine idles rough while in gear. The Jeep dealers answer is that that is normal for that engine but he had no answer when I asked why I hadn't been told that this would happen after 20,000 miles we put on it. I contacted Jeep, they wouldn't do much other that refer me to another dealer, I told the customer service rep at the 800 number that I know how to use a telephone book and could find another dealer, his reply was well is there anything else I can do for you I replied get me someone at corporate to talk to about this, he couldn't do that, I then told him I guess this will be the last Jeep I ever own (I had four previous all purhcased new like this one)his reply was that would be my choice. I emailed this to customer service and got the same answer. If you expect Jeep to stand behind this you will be waiting a long time. You take it to the dealer and you get told that they could not duplicate the problem.
    It's too late but you should have bought something else, I wish I had.
  • blanksterblankster Posts: 29
    I had my '04 LTD 4.7 flashed for a TSB that relates to idle quality(see WJJEEPS.COM). I did not have the HO. I would suggest adding some Techtron Fuel system cleaner and spray the throttle body valve with some cleaner they can get pretty dirty. You may have moisture in the tank so add some iso heat to the fuel. I believe your HO requires premium try switching brands. Take it out on the highway and run the SH*T out of it. My 4.7 would idle smooth after a nice highway run. The 4.7 is not as smooth at the 5.7 I have now.
  • During the winter storm that passed through the New York this weekend, my windshield wipers completely stopped working. I thought they were frozen or that the ice had something to do with the problem. However, the problem continued throughout the weekend. Then, I was heading to the mechanic this afternoon and they started working again. The only thing I can attributwe this to is the weather, as it was warmer today (and drier) than this weekend. Maybe they thawed out? I didnt think this was the case since I removed all of the ice when they initially stopped working. So, I don't know what the deal is, but it sounds as if we have similar problems.
  • vsaviobvsaviob Posts: 1
    I've purchased the truck a month ago. Everything was fine until the last weekend when the vehicle refuses to shift out of the first gear, after being put in Drive. Works fine in second, if the lever is in second though.
    It's got only 40,000 mi on it. Has anyone else had the same problem ?
  • blanksterblankster Posts: 29
    Any check engine lights??? '02s may have 7yr powertrain warranty. You might want to look into it.
  • I have a 2003 JGC Limited v8 HO and had the same problem. My jeep has 51k. I have the 8yr 80k mile drive train warranty and this was not covered. I was told that this was very common with the dual air/heat models. I had this fix by jeep at a cost of $680.00. They said the blend door on the passenger side had broken. They replaced it and the motor that controlls it. I ask if it wouldn't just break again and was told they had replaced that part with a better one. If this is true why wouldn't they have a recall on the defective part.
  • georgedageorgeda Posts: 7
    I have used this method when a customer service department can't - won't - help.
    I go to Google and find a link to the company web site. From there I find the company CEO and call the corporate headquarters and ask for him. You won't get to speak to him but they have assistants that step in and usually get the problem resolved.
    I just did this with my HMO because their pharmacy could not or would not get my prescription filled for over a month. I got it two days later and the pharmacy boss gave me her phone number so I could call her directly in the future.
  • joannwjoannw Posts: 2
    When I press on the brakes to stop (especially when going from a high speed) my jeep shimmies badly. The brakes were checked and found that they are in good shape. What would be the problem?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    rotors put on after market rotors and caplaters no more prob
    ifb you use jeep parts prob will return
  • kforcekforce Posts: 8
    Tug is correct! The rotors warp and shake your steering wheel when it gets bad. I changed out to a standard rotor and a nice set of "Satisfied" brand brake pads from my neighborhood auto parts store and have had no problems since. (60'000 miles)
  • joannwjoannw Posts: 2
    Are you sure its the rotors and not the steering dampner? Even though it's a 2 wheel drive, it does have a dampner.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    A bad damper will not cause this problem, only not hide it as well. The problem is warped rotors. By visual inspection they and the pads will look fine even if warped. Have the rotors turned (although the problem will return after a while) or better yet replace them with aftermarket rotors. Do not go to the dealership for this work!
  • I did get the issue fixed. Turned out a vacuum line behind the dash had broken and it was causing my dash vents AND the cruise control to not work. A trip to the garage, and 20 bucks later, both were fixed. Thanks for asking.

    -Chris Stromberg
  • 2004 JGC. all the doors close smoothly with just a nice little thud upon closing. my passenger door rattles when it closes. It sounds like metal on metal. I thought it was the door trim, because it is a little loose until I close it with the window down and my hand tightly securing the trim. It sounds like it's in the lock area, or at the edge of the door. I've had the whole trim off and I didn't notice anything visible rubbing or loose. Any ideas? It's REALLY annoying me. Shoot me an e-mail at chrisstromberg@gmail.com
  • wes56wes56 Posts: 2
    As stated my cooling fan wont run. Isn't it supposed to run when the AC is on? I cant get it to start at all. any suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    try to hot wire it if runs then not the fan maybe fuse or the body control mog
  • wes56wes56 Posts: 2
    fan works when hot wired, relay has been replaced, fan ran for 1 day after, the quit. The codes are for fan relay problems, but as said fan relay has been replaced and checked. I feel it may be my control module, but don't know how to check it. any suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    it is controler by 4 things
    1 eng temp
    2ambient temp from body controler
    3 vehical speed
    trans temp
    ac switch

    so if it dosent come on with ac prob pcm (power control mog)
  • cassinicassini Posts: 1
    I know the original message I am replying is a bit dated, but I have been having problems with my check engine light for my 2000 JGCL since November 2006. The light would go on when I go up hills, usually on highways just as I get into overdrive, and the Jeep would rattle as if not getting enough fuel. Sometimes the light would stay on for a day or two, sometimes it would blink and then go off. I took it 2x. First time, he changed spark plugs, took it for drive and still did the same thing. Then he suggested cleaning the fuel injectors. Within a week, the light came back on. It stayed on this time. Took it in again. Cylinder #1 misfire. He replaced it. Within a week, same thing. Friend hooked up code reader last week. Guess what? Cylinder #1 misfire. So, I'm thinking it's not the spark plug(s) that is causing the problem. Any ideas? Could something be shorting out the spark plug (is that a correct description, "shorting out"?).

    Cassini
  • rolljrollj Posts: 13
    Yes, there are other places for problems before the spark plugs with ignition systems. Moderns engines mostly use what is called direct coil over plug ignition. This uses individual ignition coils that sit directly over the spark plug and are controlled directly by the ECU. So if there is a problem with the coil then you will not get spark. Another form of ignition is coil over wire this uses individual ignition coils with short spark plug wires. As these plug wires get old they tend to break apart. If the insulation on the plug wire wears enough it could arc and ground out "short" with the engine before the plug. I believe the 4.0L I6 for that year uses direct coil over plug and the 4.7L V8 uses coil over wire. Hope this maybe gives you some new areas to check out. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm , explains a little better.
  • You might want to check the wires in the door jam (under the black boot) first to make sure they have not worn apart. Then you might want to check window switch at the back door as well as your drivers side switch (the one that controls all of them)to see if there is a short there. :)
  • My '05 GC will not start. It turns over as normal, but will not start without being jumped. I replaced the battery almost 2 weeks ago. It started up with no problems about a dozen times over the next 3 days and then wouldn't start. I had to have it jumped. I took it to the dealership and was told the codes showed the battery wasn't grounded properly. The negative connector had to be replaced when the battery was replaced and the connection was not tight. The dealership told me they would only touch it if I wanted to allow them to replace the entire wiring harness. I was told to take it ack to Sears and have them redo the negative connection. I did this (they tightened everything down better) and it's been fine for a week. Today, same thing. Everything on the battery is very tight. Anyone have any ideas?
  • My '05 GC will not start. It turns over as normal, but will not start without being jumped. I replaced the battery almost 2 weeks ago. It started up with no problems about a dozen times over the next 3 days and then wouldn't start. I had to have it jumped. I took it to the dealership and was told the codes showed the battery wasn't grounded properly. The negative connector had to be replaced when the battery was replaced and the connection was not tight. The dealership told me they would only touch it if I wanted to allow them to replace the entire wiring harness. I was told to take it back to Sears and have them redo the negative connection. I did this (they tightened everything down better) and it's been fine for a week. Today, same thing. Everything on the battery is very tight. Anyone have any ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    the 4.7 uses coil right on plug

    i would check the conectot to the pcm which sits on the fire wall in the engine compartment on the right or passenger side right behind coolent tank
    big bunch of wires pluged into pcm wigle around or unplug and plug in a couple of times (BE SURE TO DISCONECT THE BATTERY FIRST}
  • I'll try that. Thanks.
  • bgaffordbgafford Posts: 5
    My 97 Jeep GC limited also had the yellow headlights. Fixed the problem today. You will need wet/dry sandpaper 600grit 1000grit and 2000grit, Turtle Wax rubbing compound (the green one), and Mcguire's PlastX.

    1. Sand with 600grit, get paper wet and sand away you see the yellow go away right then.

    2. Sand with the 1000grit, get paper wet and sand a long time this helps get out some of the deeper 600grit scratches.

    3. Sand with the 2000grit, get it wet and your arm is going to hurt, this is the last and final sanding stage and you want it to look good, this will fine down those 1000grit scratches

    4. Rubbing Compound. Now your light is already going to look a lot better, you will be able to see the inside but those fine scratches do make it somewhat cloudy. Now move on to the rubbing compound. buffer is recommended or the drill attachments they sell today are also good. You will see the scratches disappear leaving it looking so much better.

    5. Mcguire's Plastx, i have heard a lot of good things about this product, i dont know how much it really did but i think it helps protect it somewhat, but yes it did help with the final finish. Apply it with the buffer also and buff away.

    My final product looked awesome. Remember to take your time with the sanding. This will give you the desired look. Also it is a good idea to tape off the light while it is on the Car so you dont mess up any paint around. Good Luck Hope it helps! :)
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Some time ago the pulley wheel of the steering pump of my '98GCLtd disintegrated. Inspection showed the pump had seized. A local mechanic repaired it and all was OK. Then the high pressure hose from the pump split sending oil everywhere and guess what - no power steering. I managed to avoid the wall.
    Replaced the pipe/hose but intermittently the power steering fails (especially at low revs) and I have a heavy clunking when turning sharp left or right. Right hand constant velocity joint seems to be a bit rough but all fine when both fronts jacked up and wheel turned full circle (without engine running of course)
    Anyone had similar problems? Is is the pump, the steering box or something in the CV joint?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Thanks! Consider posting a guide - see the link at the top of this page for details.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • pgr40pgr40 Posts: 2
    2000 GCL 4.0L
    Is the relay the 40Amp(Fuse)in the PCM/PDC on the right side in engine compartment?
    If not where exactly is the relay?
    Is there an ambient temp sensor? Where?
    AC engages, fan doesn't go on.
    Temp exceeds 210 deg., fan doesn't go on.
    Hot wired, fan goes on.
Sign In or Register to comment.