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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for the reply.I jacked her up again tonight and everything looks aok and sounds ok when I spun the wheel.Did the other side too.Took wheels off,brakes are good and do not have a pad floating as far as I can tell.It is not a metal to metal sound.Can run in circles full left and right no clunking or grinding but can not notice the sound at that speed.Have to drive about 500 yrds before squeaking starts.Taking it to work tomorrow to let the two techs I work with listen before I finaly go to dealer.If I take it to a dealer and they are 100% sure,I will post if it is the fix.
  • In my 95 Grand Cherokee the automatic transmission does not want to shift into third gear. It starts and takes off fine goes through first and second gear but in second gear it almost always either stays in second gear to about 4500 rpm and then roughly shifts into third or it seems to get stuck in neutral and just rev the engine without any gaining any speed just increasing rpms. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about a problem similar to this or hopefully a non-rebuild fix for it. The whole shift sequence other than from second to third works just fine. Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.
  • It started with the dash ABS and safety brake lights coming and staying on...sometimes. Then the odometeter nubers started to flicker and the radio turned off and on. Feels like the beginning of the curse of the ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. Dealer took it and cleaned off some connections and removed some water from somewhere it shouldn't have been and I made it to Fla from GA no problems at Christmas, then it started to happen again yesterday. Bought the car less than a year ago. Have 70,000 miles and up til this, no problems at all. Have been careful and diligent with all regular servicing. Waiting to hear what the dealer is going to say next and will post what those genuiuses say before I let them spend my money this time. Oh yea, at 50 mph there is a slight shimmy in the steering wheel. Trusted non dealer mechanic says to live with it another 2000 miles before I get brakes fixed which will probably get shimmy fixed. Had two new front tires installed with balanceing and it help the shimmy at little but not completely. Mechanic says brake job will clear up problem. Sounds reasonable so I will deal with it for a while but shimmy is moot point with the electrical nightmare looming ne c'est pas? What's your prognosis on cost to find and fix this sort of electrical problem? Thanks
  • I had the same problems I bought a handy CHILTON repair manual and learned that the Cam Shaft Position sensor, and crank shaft position sensor controls the idle and other functions that have to do with the vehicle idle and shifting. I have the 2000 JGCL V8 4x4 4.7L, I elected to change the Cam shaft sensor first and that did the trick. You can find this part at orielys for $30, and on my vehicle the sensor is located on the bottom/passenger side of the engine it's a little hard to get too but nothing that a typically hands on person can't do. But for the record these Jeeps are :lemon: 's
  • I'm driving down the road and my ABS and brake lights come on, then the go off... this happens again, I'm thinking that the alternator, or battery I replaced last week might be no good so I kick on the A/C to see what happens, the vehicle jults hard and the guages start going crazy, including the speedometer I'm actually travelling about 30mph but its bouncing rapidly between 60-120mph I turn the a/c off and it quits, back on again to see what happens and it does the same thing all over only this time when I turn the A/C off the guages keep going. I pull off the road and shut the vehicle off to try and reset ~I don't know what~ but when I try to start it again I've got nothing at all everything is 'no battery' type of dead.
    I appreciate any comments on this, or if you have a possible solution please don't hesitate.
    RE: 2000 JGCL V8 4X4 4.7L 87,000mi.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Sometimes new doesn't always mean good. :( Fortunately, there is an easy way to check to see if your alternator is bad; while the engine is running, take the negative battery post wire off and if the vehicle dies, then the alternator is bad. I cannot see the battery being bad, because the vehicle does indeed start/turnover. However, when you do swap out the atlernator, have the part store check your battery as well, just to be on the safe side.

    Your post certainly sounds as the classic bad alternator/even if it is new story. We all experience this at least once in our lives, but it is a very good lesson to learn for everyday use: new doesn't always mean good.
    With a fully charged battery the alternator should be charging somewhere between 12.4 volts, and 15 volts.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    I don't know if anyone responded to you in regards to this. I have a 2000 JGC, two years in a row I had a similar problem but the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone. The first year the output speed sensor went bad and the second year the input speed sensor blew. It didn't cost much to replace them (maybe $20-$30 per sensor)but at the time I had no idea where they were located and paid twice as much to have a transmission shop do the work.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    I believe I am having electrical problems but am not sure. This may be similar to the problems from the post -2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - poltergeist or curse?

    Several months ago my automatic head lights started turning my lights on all the time. So even during the day time my headlights were on. A Short time later my headlights started turning themselves on when the vehicle was off. They would flicker on for a few minutes and then shut off. It would repeat this a few times before stopping and then it would start up again a little while later. I solved the problem by taking them off auto and turning the lights off. This only occurs when the lights are in auto. Any suggestions. I bought a manual on the jeep but didn't find anything that would help.

    My second problem is my driver side bum heater isn't working. :cry: Luckily I live in Colorado Springs and it's not too detrimental thanks to a mild January. I think it might be a fuse but again haven't come across anything in my manual that might help point me in the right direction. Passenger side heated seat working fine.
  • cleethcleeth Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum. But have a serious question. Has anyone experienced this: when at a stop light, I press the gas to go I have a WHINE that is coming from the engine ad or tranny, however If I take my foot off the accelerator. and reapply it the noise goes away. WHY is it making this noise???
  • My 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee keeps turning on the fan when the car is not started (at random times) and runs until it drains the battery. Then I have to get it jumped. I have taken it to the dealer 4 times and they replaced the fan but it still keeps happening. It seems to occur a couple of times car wash or hard rain. They also mentioned the temp gauge. I am don't know what to do at this point because they want to keep it until it happens again which is not an option.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    There should be 2 temp sensors(one controls the fan) located on your engine. Locate the 1 that controls your fan by un-plugging one, and if the fan turns on (while the engine is relativly cold) then that is the temp sensor that you want to replace. If that does not fix the problem, then replace your relay(cooling fan relay) located in your Power Distribution Center(located in the engine compartment).
  • Thanks, I'll give it a shot...
  • So the only difference for you is the check engine light came on and it wouldn't shift into a gear (into 3rd from 2nd) correctly it would just increase in rpms and eventually shift once the rpms got high enough or it seemingly "just felt like shifting". If thats it thats great news and I found in my chilton's where the speed sensors are. Did you find your problem when someone put a code reader on your computer and found that or how did you know that was what was needed to be changed?
  • You may already know this but that "no key" sign is actually part of the anti-theft system. It will come on when a key without a dealer or factory programmed micro-chip is used to start the vehicle. I own a 2000 Grand and the spare key I had made at Wal-Mart (without a chip in it of course) would start the vehicle, but the vehicle would then shut off after a few seconds, while the "no key" light continued flashing. In order to get a spare with a chip in it, I had to show proof of ownership at the local Jeep dealer, then they would program a spare key for me, in exchange for a ridiculous amount of money. It sounds to me like you have some kind of weird computer malfunction going on in the anti-theft system. If your local dealer is worth anything, they would re-program your keys and even try a new one for you, because it could also have something to do with your key's micro-chip malfunctioning. I hope this helps you out a little!
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    Correct. My jeep was having a hard time shifting between gears. It would drive fine as long as I was above or below a certain speed. My engine light came on as soon as the problem started occuring and I had someone (Autozone) put a code reader on it which told me what the problem was.

    Hopefully it's all that is wrong with your Jeep too. Good Luck.
  • I bought a 2000 Grand Cherokee back in August '05 and have since found a couple of "rigged fixes" that possibly helped it to bring more money at auction. The one that is really stumping me is that my "check engine" light is on showing a "3-4 shift malfunction" on the code-reader. I called the local Jeep dealer and of course they told me it would be $75 just to hook it up to the computer, even if nothing ends up being wrong. On top of that, they would need to keep it for a few days b/c they were behind on tranny work. I know that the guy knew of a couple possible things that it could be, but instead he wanted to get smart with me. I was thinking that it could possibly be a shift solenoid problem, but I would hate to buy a new one and that not be the problem. Then I would be stuck with two good solenoids. The fluid level is fine, and I don't think just changing the fluid and filter will fix the problem. Anyone else had this problem? It seems that some of these problems end up being model specific. By the way it has the 4.0 inline six. I would greatly appreciate a little insight. Thanks. Also, b/c of this, it will shift into overdrive, but not when it should. It takes it a while, even after you are running 65-70mph and have completely let off the gas.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    Did you ever get this problem fixed? I have had a similar problem and it only occurs when the lights are left in automatic. The only difference is my lights have only flashed (and same clicking noise) when the car is off. See posts about possesed head lights. This problem has occured off and on for about a year.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    There is another similiar post on here about shifting rough between gears. I took my car to Autozone when my check engine light came on. This happened two years in a row. Year one it was the output speed sensor, year two it was the input speed sensor. It's a realitively cheap fix if you can do the work yourself.
  • desh2desh2 Posts: 1
    what year was your GC and how much did it cost u,my GC is having the same problems after i had my tires rotated.
  • I appreciate that info. I had read the posting of that before, but I didn't know if that was my problem or not. I'll check into that and let you know how that goes. Thanks!
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