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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    book says to remove rear wheels, brakes and calipers.Drop driveline. Use tools # 6958(holder) C-452 ( Remover) and (Wrench) C-3281 to remove the rear yoke to access the seal. Remove seal with any tool that can pull it out. Use toolsC-3972-A (seal installer and handle C-4171 to install new seal. Use Installer W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Holder 6958 to reinstall the yoke.. The differential housing dips below the lower seal line so there will be oil in the rearend. It is vented so no pressure builds up. The rotation of the ring gear will whip oil upon the diff bearing. The bearing, however will not be submerged in oil as it would be without the leak. Get ready to spend a few bucks!!!!! S Swann-Odessa, tx ( I do not know why the wheels and brakes have to be removed as they are not in the way of seal replacement)
  • dsmansdsmans Posts: 10
    Thanks so much. I'm waiting for a quote now from Cottman Transmission. WOW! The manager made it sound like it would be a simple thing, but obviously not. I still don't have a call back yet and it's been almost 4 hours!
  • wick24wick24 Posts: 1
    just started overheating the other day, car only has 20,000 miles on it. we thought that the fan may of been the problem it doesn't run by its self but fan does work when it is hard wired too the battery. were thinking about checking the temp/sensors or relays but just wondering if anyone has had this problem and has the knowledge to fix it. :confuse:
  • Howdy , i was just wodering if anybloody has heard of any radiator hose dramas with the 2.7 litre CRD engine grand cherokee MY 2004? my machine occassionaly pongs of coolant and the hoses seem to be Breathing/seeping fluid
  • hokiecowhokiecow Posts: 1
    A couple of weeks ago the power auto entry/exit stopped working. Then tonight the lights in the dash started flickering on and off. Then the interior lights started coming on and staying on for a few seconds before going off. Shortly after this all the interior lights came on and stayed on for the remainder of my drive. We are going to take it in to have it looked at but I was wondering if anyone else had the same experience and what the cause was.

    Thanks!
  • arkitekarkitek Posts: 2
    Ive got a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 156k miles. Just last week I went to close the drivers door and a bolt with a star head (not a phillips head) popped out of the door and what looks to me that the latching mechanism inside the door broke from the body of the door. Is this fixable/weldable? or will i need to get a new used door?

    Thank you!
  • arkitekarkitek Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my interior lights. What the cause for me was that the button switch when i close the door was not pushing the button in all the way. I was able to pull on the door and the lights went out and then when i let go, lights came on. My quick fix was to tape a small piece of cardboard to the door where the switch would hit and that did it.

    but for me, this is related to my problem that i posted today.
  • I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L - 242 with 208k miles.

    Recently I have noticed that my jeep has been smoking a lot. When I look under it, all the smoke is coming from the catalytic converter. It looks like steam more or less, but has a slight smell to it. There is nothing leaking onto it, all the smoke/steam is coming from within it. All of my gauges are fine and nothing else seems to be wrong. I believe it has never been replaced. Anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong with it?

    Also, if it needs to be replaced. Could you tell me an approximate price range that I should look for when talking to shops?

    Thanks for all the help in advance.
  • dmenchendmenchen Posts: 4
    I was reading a post from another member about how his 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee has not power going to the front axle and only 1 wheel in the back is getting power. Wow! I have exactly the same problem with my 99 JGC with the Quadra Track II. According to everything I read the drive train should send power to whichever axle or wheel has traction, but in my case there is nothing going to the front and the rear is only going to where there is no traction. HELP!!!

    I am concerned that there has been no response since the original post of this issue back in 2003, I hope I have better luck getting an answer. :confuse:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    how maney miles on the jeep?
    have you changed the oil in the transfer case?
    try it in 4low
  • dmenchendmenchen Posts: 4
    It has just over 100K on it.
    I had the oil changed in the transfer case about a year ago, but the recent snow storm here in Ohio was my first time needing 4WD.
    It made no difference if I put it in 4H or 4L.
    I am very confused as to why I don't at least get "posi-traction" from the rear wheels.
    I finally get to play in the snow and had no fun at all... :cry:

    Thanks for your help.
  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    I heard another guy with the same problem. Turns out that the gerator pump went bad. But I still am confused about why it doesn't work in 4L? Maybe your transfer case chain is slipping? Are there any strange noises when in 4L in a low traction situation? Also, the engines vacume is suppose to lock the viscus coupling to engage 4 wheel drive when in 4L. Another possibility is that for some reason the fluid isn't getting into the viscus coupling, the leading cause of this problem is that the wrong fluid is put in the transfer case. I would start with changing the oil in the transfer case again, look in your owners manual to find the correct fluid. By the way, only quadra-drive has the posi-trac.
  • lam254lam254 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 jgc laredo. It has been stalling on/off for approx 6-8 mos. I have changed everything from sensors to coils and tune up. I still have the same problem. It can run fine for a period of time, then it it starts shutting off on me.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    My 94 GC 5.2 V8 suddenly quit running bout a month back. It is rarely ever driven and sits for months on end. I was towing a small trailer for most of the day, ran great. Got home, loaded the trailer back up to make a dump run and went to pull out of my driveway and it just died. Been sitting ever since. The fuel pump is working, but it acts like its not getting fuel or spark, just turns over and over and over. There is no spark to the plugs, but the cap and rotor are fine. I put some gas directly in it, and still nothing.

    Very weird, not sure why its not firing.

    Please help, need to get it running soon.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    gotta use the oil from jeep in that transfer case if used wrong oil when changed will prob need new transfer
  • machmikemachmike Posts: 8
    I recently purchased a 2000 Grand Cherokee before I moved from Michigan. It has the 4.7L V8. While there are numoerous items to watch for on these vehicles, I noticed that my oil pan had substantial rust on it. If left unattended, it would have probably started to leak oil and eventually led to other more serious issues. If you are in a salty environment, do your self a favor and check the conditon of the pan and sand, prime with a rust encapsulator and paint it to save yourself potentially thousands of dollars worth the engine damage that could result. Do the same for the tranny pan as well.
  • machmikemachmike Posts: 8
    Agreed. Some of the transfer cases use atf+4. I have the full time four wheel drive and it uses the nv247, 249 oil only. Using ATF+4 is going to cause you problems with that transfer case.
  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    Hey! That's basically what is said on post #3991. Oh well.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    I will answer my own question with what our dealer got from Jeep engineering: you must turn the radio OFF before turing off the ignition and then the radio stays in AUX mode when you start the car. But of course you have to turn the radio back on again as well.

    One of the crazier answers I have ever heard. The radio does not require that to stay in AM,FM or CD mode as you can switch off the car with the radio on and it goes back to the mode you left it in. Seems to me a true design bug! I don't think it's worth fighting, but one of my first (minor) disappointments with this new vehicle.
  • howie56howie56 Posts: 21
    Hello : I've posted a problem about a 1 1/2 yrs ago about my 2005 Jeep grand cherokee with a 5.7 HEMI that surges on the road no matter if I'm on flat roads or hills and the garage I take it to knows and admits that I have a problem , but Chrysler just says that this is a normal occurance . I'm wondering if any other owners of the same vehical have the same problem or not . I have around 27000 miles on it and it has been doing this since 3000 miles .

    Thanks for any help that I recieve

    Roger :lemon:
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    I just had both front door window regulators (the power window mechanism & motor assembly inside the doors) replaced at 6k miles in warranty, and while a minor thing it is my first new vehicle defect (hmmm, our 300M went to 35k miles w/o a problem). The power window express up feature was intermittent which I have found handy to use at the mailbox, bank, toll booths and while no big deal to hold the finger on the control like old power windows required, there were a few times it jammed and it took a while to go up even manually forcing it.

    I found this data on http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_tsb.htm#NEW
    Jeep owners with 05 and newer models can find a LOT of data on that site including how to do a lot of vehicle simple service and interior panel removals. Scan all the TSBs to see if there are any symptoms showing up you may have. Here is the window express up problem explained:

    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves replacing both of the front window regulators and both front door modules, if the modules can not be reprogrammed to the proper level.
    MODELS:
    2006-2008 (WH) Grand Cherokee (International Markets)
    2006-2008 (WK) Grand Cherokee
    2006-2008 (XH) Commander (International Markets)
    2006-2008 (XK) Commander
    NOTE: This bulletin applies to WK/XK vehicles built before October 4 th, 2007
    (MDH1004XX) and WH/XH vehicles built before October 18th 2007 (MDH
    1018XX).
    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    The customer may experience a front door glass reversal, goes up and then comes back down after the express-up function is initiated. This condition is caused by a combination of a regulator motor issue and the sensitivity of the auto up software contained in the door module(s).
  • I have a '99 jeep cherokee 4.0l. It do not always want to idle when you start it. It started doing it about 6 mths ago and is slowly getting worse. It is not always doing it when it's cold but also when it is warm. It drive and accelerate just fine. Can it be the egr valve? Someone told me it can be the tps censor but it no check engine light. :confuse:
  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    The 4.0L and 2.5L engines don't have EGR valves. It could be anything from bad coolant temperature sensor to the TPS. But I'm pretty sure that it's some kind of a sensor.
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    The six has a idle air pump. It is located on the back side of the air inlet body. You may access it by removing the air inlet top housing to expose the air inlet body. Look to the right side of the backside of the housing. Uncouple the wire harness and use a phillips screw driver to release the pump retainer screws. Pull it out and check for any buildup or deposits on the piston. Clean it and reinstall and crank the engine. If it idles you fixed it. If it does not a new valve costs about 50 bucks on the internet. OR----you can take a 1/4" stove bolt nut and place it below the near bottam end of the throttle valve lever( look at the bottam of the front side of the air inlet housing closest to you) Good luck
  • 5213252132 Posts: 62
    I just replaced the CCV system on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L. And I have to tell you that it's not easy. First, you have to make sure you have got parts that replace the entire CCV system. The reason for this is that you have to break every thing you attempt to remove. Second, get a large flat head screw driver to pry out the CCV elbows. If you use a screw driver with interchangeable bits, MAKE SURE THAT THE BIT DOES NOT FALL IN TO THE ENGINE!!! Third, you have to take off the resonator to replace the rear hose. If you don't take it off, it will be harder to take off the end of the hose that connects to the intake manifold. This is a good opportunity to check the butterfly valve on the TB. Fourth, install the resonator. Make sure that the resonator is flush with the TB, don't forget to install the hose for the front CCV. Last, triple check everything - the hoses, elbows, resonator, TB. Start the engine and check for a whistling sound (don't be fooled with the whistle like sound of the alternator). If everything checks out, you are all done.
    I'm writing this because nobody else has. ;)
  • tireman3tireman3 Posts: 2
    Hi
    I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee laredo. About once a month while driving the car seems to slip and the check engine light comes on. The car runs funny after that and the idle races up and down. The code is DTC PO320 . If i disconnect the battery and erase the code, the car runs fine after that, although it still idles a little funny. I really like this car and this drives me crazy. Can somebody help me?
    thanks
  • blanksterblankster Posts: 29
    On some of the '01s the crank position sensor has been known to fail - I think it was on the 4.7s. Look up the PO320 code. I did some looking it could also be transmission related...
  • tireman3tireman3 Posts: 2
    Thank You!!
  • machmikemachmike Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Laredo in the shop right now for similiar issues. Your code is for the crankshaft sensor. My codes were 1732 and 1784. Which are the presure switch circuit. My Tranny would slip and the MIL would come on. I would reset it with my scanner and all was good. The problem kept getting worse until all i had was 1st, 2nd and reverse. The solenoids and clucthes in tranny are bad. Usually not that expensive, but I had torque converter issues as well. Go to actron.com and look at their scanners. You can link to sites for used ones or check autozone. I just moved to NC from Detroit and before I moved I bought an actron superscanner at Murray's that the employees used on customers cars. It is about $350 new. I paid $86. It has more than paid for itself. The superscanner not only gives you the code but tells you what it is. On top of that you can plug it in while you are drivving and it montors the functions of the vehicle. It also tells you if your car will pass inspection in states that require them. Good luck.
  • mworleymworley Posts: 41
    I currently own a 2001 limited 4.7. I have had no problems that you have stated. I am not a mechanic bu have owned and work on 4 Jeep's in 20 year's. My guess and have had this problem with my 87 commance ( bad power steering pump ) Dealer replaced, no noise. I have had problems with getting things fixed from Jeep dealer's in the past. My advise, go to another dealer. I have a Chrysler/ Dodge dealer that services Jeep. They have been excellent, my last Jeep dealership gave me the run around, didn't fix problems, and charged me for things that should have been covered under my warrenty.Good luck.
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