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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    if you have a fan hooked to the water pump the fan clutch is bad

    if only have elictric fan then have fan moter that is going bad
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Posts: 21
    Ok, I realize your post has been up for awhile, but I had the same problem. Constant ticking at any givent time, turning, bumps, low speed, etc. After several trips to the dealer, and "tightening all suspension and column" the finally replaced the steering column. This was 4 months ago, and it is now starting again.
  • sarah81sarah81 Posts: 1
    Hi, boys. I don't know why but the radio on my Jeep just went kaput. (I have an old, but reliable!) Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo. It's a 95 and the radio still lights up and I can dial the stations but the antannae won't go up and no sound comes out from the speakers. I took it to my mechanic and he said he couldn't figure it out and suggested I go to a radio specialist. I even looked in the fuse box fuses are all fine too!

    Who can help a girl out and save me from spending money I don't have?

    Thanks!
    xoxx
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    My first guess would be that the motor that extends the antenna is shot.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    I put a new headlight switch in the car today, and the headlights still don't turn on. Again, the high beams work fine, but the regular head lights don't work.

    How should I begin troubleshooting?
  • jeeepjeeep Posts: 5
    Hi I have a 03 GCL V8, low 29,100 miles on it I'm the 2nd owner. 1st when at a stop light the idle is at 600RPM then it will drop to 400 or 300RPM like it ready to die. it doesn't do it all the time but most and when shifting from park to N the RPMs will go down to 400rpm then right back up to 600 and stay there. when trying to keep it at a 1000rpm with foot on the gas it goes up then back down with foot still on the gas, then when I let my foot of the gas the rpm go down to 300 then back up to 600. I have taken to the shop they replaced the throttle position sensor still dose it does any one have an idea ????????????? one more my string feels like I have bad bearings in the top part of the collem I hear popping sounds as well, doesn't feel smooth sometimes ruff and feel the steering wheal likes it loose ??? the shop said nothing was wrong,they like to take your money to tell you all is ok..
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    idel sounds as if have vacuem leak try and pintch the hose thatgoes to the brake booster and see fi idel smothes out as for the stearing you shoult take to a place that rebuilds stearing coloums (find in yellow pages) have them check it out
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    My 97 Jeep is older and 4.0L I6, but your problem sounds similar to mine. Fixing these problems at a repair shop is all about finding the right person.

    Due to my vehicle age I decide to troubleshoot myself or tow to junk yard. Doing your own work involves risk and buying tools, but if repair $ not getting results ??

    Get a haynes manual. Buy/borrow a vacuum gauge. Follow their instructions. If gauge OK, read on. Otherwise your problem is probably different than mine.

    Here's my story: Service ignition if overdue. Otherwise, just inspect spark plugs. Mine looked OK. My throttle has a sensor and control valve. Take picture of throttle area, then remove throttle and clean spotless. My control valve was very dirty. I replaced it. Engine ran better, but not fixed.

    Bought fuel pressure gauge. My spec is 45 psi. At idle, gauge was vibrating between 35-42. Bingo !

    My initial conclusion: Insufficient fuel pressure, steady or intermittent, threatens to stall the engine. Engine computer detects low rpm and tries to compensate, but can only do so much. Dirty throttle and/or controls just make it even worse.

    Due to age of vehicle, I am pretty certain it's fuel pump, but first I plan to look for other possible causes. Replace fuel pump is big $ and probably too difficult for me.

    Hope this helps. I didn't know any of this until I started doing my own research and troubleshooting.

    NOTES:
    1. Test gauges: harborfreight.com
    2. Safety: follow haynes. Safety goggles a must.
    3. If you let car sit overnight and get cold, you may not have to relieve fuel pressure because it may have dwindled to 0.
    4. Electrical connectors are fragile.
    5. So far, all parts have been available at Autozone
    6. You may need tamper proof torx bits to disassemble throttle
    7. My engine has test ports on fuel rail and manifold. Hope you are this fortunate.
    8. Costs: manual($20), iginition parts($100), gauges($35), intake cleaner($5), control valve($40), torx bits($10).
  • rgzilgrgzilg Posts: 1
    How do you adjust the tension on a 2001 jeep Gran cherokee 's side mirrors? Mine are loose and fold very easily. I actually failed state inspection for it, the inspection agent said that there is some way to adjust the tension to make them stiffer.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 1997 and maybe I can help.

    First, buy a haynes manual and review their procedures. Here is how I would approach it.

    Preparations:
    1. Digital volt meter
    2. Long black wire (about 15 feet) with a clip on one end and a plug on the other.
    3.Red test probe with long thin point
    4.Get pinout info on headlamp connector (haynes or alldatadiy.com

    Clip one end of the black wire to the (-) of the battery and plug the other into Common/Ground on the meter. Unless you have a good ground, your meter readings may be erroneous. 15 feet should reach anywhere. Now, both hands are free to mainpulate the test probe. Set meter to 20 volt scale

    I disagree with haynes about back probing connectors. I like to pull the connector off and directly observe my probe.

    Anyway, disconnect the headlamp bulb by first removing the retainer clip. Haynes manual should have details on this.

    Turn on lights and probe the 3 contacts on the connector. One is ground, One is hibeam. Meter should read battery voltage when on. Because hibeam is working I expect it to measure OK. Hibeam and lowbeam share the ground circuit. If hibeam is OK, ground circuit should be OK.

    If lowbeam voltage OK and bulb is new, it should work. If not, consult a shop. The rest of this discussion assumes that lowbeam does not have correct voltage.

    You will have to try and pinpoint the problem with your meter. haynes manual has some wiring diagrams or subscribe to alldatadiy.com

    The problem could be a fuse, relay, connector, wire or some combination. The ground wire of any control component (e.g. relay) is also a potential suspect.

    To check a ground wire, configure meter for resistance, disconnect (-) cable of battery and measure resistance between the wire and the END of the (-) battery cable. It should be zero ohms or close to it.

    The body control module (BCM) is part of the headlight controls. I'd be surprised if it could interfere with normal operation of low beams because headlight is so essential to safety. I guess it's possible. Only the dealer can test the BCM.

    Note: Probe carefully. If you short 2 contacts with your test probe, you will blow a fuse or worse.
  • mimi139mimi139 Posts: 9
    I recently had misfiring of the 3rd and 5th cylinder. I had the coil pack, spark plugs, fuel filter, and air filter changed on the jeep. Still the misfiring appeared until my car died out and got stuck. I had the fuel pump changed and now it cranks but won't start right away. I got super octane gas thinking it will resolve and at the gas station it started on the third crank with the check engine light on. I check for the code by turning my key and it came back P0340. Went out an got a cam sensor after reading on the forum. I hope this will resolve the issue. Another issue is after stopping on the light giving it gas to take off and it appears to be pretty slow. It's aabout 103 degrees outside and my ac was on high. Any help on this trouble will be appreciated greatly. :confuse:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    According to my book p0340, is no CAM signal at PCM. It means the engine is getting no signal from the sensor that gives it the camshaft position. Did you clear the code and did it come back? Where I live we have Autozone and they will read and clear your codes for free. If code did come back, sensor may not be getting its 5V supply, or the ground wire is not connected, etc. See the haynes manual or subscribe to alldatadiy.com.

    With your vehicle's age get a vacuum and fuel pressure gauges. My jeep has test ports for both. If you don't, you'll have to improvise. If you let it sit overnight, you may not have to relieve fuel pressure to connect the fuel gauge My fuel gauge leaks unless I put teflon tape on the threads. See harborfreight.com for good prices on gauges.If you want to go all the way, do a cylinder compression test, but I haven't done that one yet.
  • mimi139mimi139 Posts: 9
    Come to find out I had the fuel pump changed yesterday and things looked to be good. Then the same thing started happening starting the car up. There was no pressure in the gas line and the ground and relay was tested. The fuel pump defective from Autozone. The worker said that it did not have the air pressure filture with the pump. Round two. getting a new one put in today. Hopefully the issues will resolve. If not the cam sensor was not changed yestrday so that will be the final step. I hope. If not then I can ask to have the compression of the cylinders tested on the car. :sick:
  • #2164 dadsboxer - My wipers also stopped working just on the intermittent settings (works on low, high and washer). Did you ever get an answer to fix yours? If so what was the outcome. Thanks for your reply in advance.
  • osh3osh3 Posts: 2
    I thought I would return and post the conclusion. tuggajb was exactly correct, the rear wheel bearing had a bad roller!! For good measure, I also replaced the bearing on the other side as long as I was dirty and all geared up. I ended up using an old can of freeze spray on the race of the bearing to remove it. It took the whole pint can to get the job done. With a slide hammer type bearing puller, I was not able to budge it. After the spray it took three good shots and "pop" out it came. Thanks for the response.

    Jim
  • el kabong - I now have basically the same problem with my 95 jeep (except a little different). Wipers work on Low, High and Wash but not delay. Any suggestions on where to start looking. I hear there's something called a "Pulse Wiper Module", and of course the wiper switch and motor. Don't know which part to replace first. Thanks for any advice.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If the wiper motor has no special connections for delay mode, it must be your module and/or switch (unless it's a wire). Maybe a haynes manual can help you troubleshoot. Even if you can use a voltmeter, access may be difficult. If I had to guess, I am much more suspicious of the switch, because it depends on mechanical motion to mate 2 electrical contacts. The delay module has no moving parts. I had a problem with rear wiper on my 97 JGC. The control switch on dashboard AND liftgate ajar switches were faulty.
  • My 94 Jeep Gr Cherokee occasionally missfires after driving on the highway. It is fine until I get off the hwy and slow down. Then it misses/hesitates for a few seconds. After that, it is OK. I checked for stored codes, changed plugs and wires and tried dry gas. The problem started after a transmission rebuild, not sure if is related. Any ideas? Thank you
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have 97 JGC, 4.0L I6 with 168K. Believe it or not, it still rides and steers great, AC works, etc. but engine idle is very rough. Once you accelerate and cruise it's OK. The following actions improved idle condition: serviced ignition, cleaned throttle spotless, replaced idle air control valve.

    Following tests are in my garage, wheels chocked. All unecessary vacuum ports plugged (evap, brake, speed control) plus the park brake Off. Fuel pressure and vacuum gauge attached to test ports.

    Making extensive use of haynes manual plus I have Chrysler shop manual (all 2,200 pages).

    Vacuum: At idle it is OK (about 20). Snap the throttle open then release. Appears to respond OK

    Fuel pressure: At idle, its 45psi, but within specs. Gauge needle vibrates a little.

    Measured fuel pump relay. Voltage is battery & steady. Replaced relay as precaution anyway because engine heat may have affected it. Only $10.

    Measured ASD relay. Looks OK.

    Engine coolant and air intake temperature sensors test OK. Camshaft, MAP and throttle position sensors are getting 5V, but I can't probe without risk of damaging connector so exact status is ?

    No unusual engine noise. Inpsected fuel line. Looks OK.

    Fuel injector: Probed injector 1 with a fluke meter that measures freq and duty cycle. Pulse width gets longer as you open throttle.
    I can't compare it to specifications, but the engine does respond.

    Have not done compression test, but I will this week.

    Now, here it fails: Put transmission in D with foot on brake. Engine roughness really increases. Fuel pressure drops to avg of about 40psi and jumps all over between 45 and 35. Vacuum goes down to about 5.

    If it's clogged injectors, why would fuel pressure drop? Fuel pressure not controlled by PCM. If it's fuel pump and/or line leak why does it accelerate and cruise so well. Why does pump have capacity to accelerate and cruise 70 mph, but not work when stopped at a light?

    Would love to understand what's going on. Or should I be looking at something other than the fuel system ?

    Thanks in advance.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    i assuem that you left the vac to brake boster unhooked.when you did last test
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    For garage test, unecessary vacuum disconnected. Last night connected everything....Put small hose clamps on so all vacuum so all is tight...Replaced evap purge solenoid that was causing another problem...Test drove....Solenoid problem fixed, but rough idle remains. Accelerates and cruises OK....Will probe MAP and throttle sensors tonight with jumper wires and do compression test....I read that oxygen sensor not used in cold warmup and I have problem cold and warm.....Thanks
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    My 1996 JGC with 97k on it has recently started stalling out when coming to a stop at a light or stop sign.

    I thought it might be the Idle Air Controller valve, so I replaced it but it is still happening.

    Could it be a dirty fuel injector? What else should I check?
  • wvhjb44wvhjb44 Posts: 1
    water leak under the glovebox..floor on passenger side is soaking wet what can cause this there is no smell to it i need some help. my daughter just got this 2002 grand jeep cherokee ltm on thursday please help
  • n0otron0otro Posts: 12
    I had a similar problem with a 1996 JGC. It was a clog in the air conditioning condensate drain.
    http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/4/

    Your jeep is much newer, I would think they would have addressed the problem by now, but maybe not.
  • mimi139mimi139 Posts: 9
    Response to my original posting and what was done to the Jeep GC. The code never re-appeared but the fuel pump was changed with a manufacturer defect. That was changed out with a good fuel pump the very next day. Also, I had the fuel pump regulator that made the original troubles go away. The Jeep starts and drives good now. Just a bit of shaking at a stop and an existing rattle noise under the car (maybe the convertor cover). Otherwise all is okay for now. Thanks for the input you provided to me. :blush:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97.

    If you haven't done so, make sure the throttle is clean, especially the cylinder where the piston travels. I don't know why, but you need a "tamper-proof" torx bit to disassemble the throttle so you can clean it

    I have rough idle and it almost stalls. Replacing my evap purge solenoid solved the stall problem.

    Try disconnecting the vacuum line from maninfold to evap purge solenoid. It's for emission control. See haynes manual for more info. Plug the fitting on the manifold. Disconnect wire from the solenoid so that engine computer cannot enable it or plug the line. Disconnecting wire may cause a "check engine" light.

    If you have problem in Park, you can do it in your garage with hood open. If not, make your road test as short as possible.

    Make sure engine has warmed up. The engine computer won't enable the solenoid until it warms up

    If it runs better, replace the solenoid and any vacuum hose that looks dry or rotted. My almost stall problem went away.

    Note: If you do this yourself don't make my mistake. It's easy to pull the line off the canister which means the canister is evaporating all the time and is not controlled by the solenoid. The canister is under the bumper. You have to remove the air filter housing to access it and even then it is difficult.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I am going to take a wild guess. Excuse me if I am way off.

    The line that drains condensation from your air conditioner has become partially or completely plugged so the water backs up and eventually has to go somewhere.

    Run your air conditioner on a hot muggy day at least 30 minutes and see how much water comes dripping out underneath the car. The drain should be close to the a/c coil that is integrated with your air ducts on the dash. It should be clear water if the drain is not dirty. No water is an obvious indication.

    Take it to a shop if it looks suspicious. I never did this one. I believe you need compressed air to clean the line.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    This is same 97 JGC i posted before, 4.0L I6....The story continues but has taken a turn....All vacuum issues resolved....Engine still idles rough but with a very consistent vibration. All the chopping is gone.

    Did compression test...Bingo!...All the cylinders were 145-150 psi except cylinder 2. It usually peaked at 120. Squirted in some oil. Went to 150 like the other ones.

    Spending big $ on engine a problem because I will need it for transmission....Local shops don't want to do repairs...They want to swap for used engine....Swaps have a much better $/effort ratio...Nobody wants to scrape a gasket anymore...They might replace my 160K engine with a 140K engine.

    Is repairing engines a secret nobody wants to get out?

    If we can put a man on the moon, we can repair a cylinder.

    What are my options ? What tools will I need ? What is best approach ? What suppliers are rated best ?

    Thanks for any input.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could have compression ring frozen in ring land

    i would try and get some SEA FOAM from pep boys checker and squirt some in the cyl and let soak for a while then run it some for a few days with some in crank case then change oil see if dont get better small price to pay if works as if you didnt over heat the bugger could be stuck from carbon deposits and sea foam should take care of that
  • The air conditioner in my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee is not working properly. When I add freon, all of it is gone within 3 weeks. I know I have a leak somewhere but my mechanic has been unable to find it. Also, the floor board on the passenger side used to get soaking wet whenever I ran the air. Has anyone else had this problem and how can it be resolved?
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