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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 1995 grand cherokee and it is missing and jerking. The plugs and wires are all new and no codes are coming up on the computer. Am really puzzled whats wrong with it. Any suggestions? :cry:
  • Dist.-cap, rotor, fuel press, or filter. Pretty much depends whether it misses more under load, at idle etc. I'd START by listening for vacuum leak. Uncontrolled air intake is a fairly common reason for misses, stumbles, jerks and coughs.
    Let the engine idle, listen through a length of 5/16" hose, CAREFULLY, around the intake to head, throttle-body to intake, around fittings etc. Lots of plastic hoses/lines break inside rubber boots etc.
  • If you haven't replaced the crackshaft position sensor, consider doing that.
  • I have a 2006 Jeep Laredo. It will start somedays and somedays it won't. If it has been jumped off, it will start for about 3 days. Took it to the local Jeep dealer. They couldn't find anything wrong except to get a new battery. Did that and the problem is still there. Has anyone had the same problem?
  • There was a Tech article on drilling a hole in the center of the round plastic at the bottom of the Evaporator core to allow clean out. The Problem is with age the Foam "seal that goes between the firewall and the evaporator core breaks down. Whe you park on an up hill grade the water runs out the drain and back down the pipe to the firewall. When this seal is bad it will soak the carpet. Also while driving it can blow back into the passenger compartment. I fixed Mine by cutting the bottom portion of the evaporator housing with nylon string. Then using fiber glass and some carbon fiber tube made collection cup that I hooked some plastic hose too and drilled a whole and dumped it out the wheel well with a 90 degree elbow. I silliconed in some sheet metal to seal the factory hole. My fathers 98 dodge truck had the same problem. But on those tou can put some hose on it from the engine compartment side and rout it down a few inches to avoid the blowback onto the firewall.
  • yesterday my 2003 Jeep Grande Cherokee laredo started making a noise when it was started up (under the hood)..almost like a flapping noise but then it stops and drives just fine no problems..any ideas on this? my husband looked under the hood but didn't see anything broken as far as belts but he doesn't know much about cars...any ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    when have you replaced the serptine belt (prob has never been changed) could have lost a section and will still work for a while till you are someplace that you realy need it to go then you are stranded
  • On my 2000 Grand cherokee L. when the weather is hot or warm the car start fine but when is cold I have to crank up the engine for at least 7 or more seconds, What is making a hard start only on cold weather?

    Thank you
  • I have a 2000 JGC with tan leather wrapped steering wheel. The tan color on the leather wrapped wheel has partially peeled off. There are also age cracks in the leather which yield the ugliest steering wheel possible. (It seems the tanning process used was more like a paint then actually tanning the leather.)

    Any suggestions from others that have fixed this? I was considering buying a new leather wrap from Wheelskins. I suppose the old leather wrap should be cut-off the wheel before adding a new wrap? Any suggestions welcome - I have no experience with wheel wraps.
  • Neither heated seat button lights up nor do the seats heat up, this is both for the driver and passenger seats. Could this be as simple as a fuse? I do not notice any other issues, at this time. Any help would be appreciated before it has to go in the shop.
  • My 2000 JGC has a problem with cylinder 3 misfiring. Happened last year, and we replaced the plugs. Problem seemed to go away, but same error code this year again. Could the coil boot be bad? Or the coil pack? (Hope it isn't the pack... they aren't cheap). Any other ideas?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,956
    I've heard of a couple of good reports with the replacement leather you sew on to the wheel. Forgot the brand. One poster somewhere on CarSpace a couple of years ago that his handiwork looked as good as the factory steering wheel.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Hey all. I just bought a 1998 Jeep GC Laredo all time 4wh drive , with 80,000 miles on it from a guy i knew who took exceptional care of it. Very Clean. I buffed and polished it, semi new tires, new breaks, and new filters. Good jeep to own.

    It runs great, except a few things. I mainly drive it back and forth to school, a modest 10 miles a day, 20 tops.I noticed that the inline 6 is semi weak for it. It drives nice, but i do a decent amount of highway driving at times, and it handles it fine, i just wish it had a little more get up and go. When i press the gas hard it accelerates semi slow, down shifts, and they gets up to speed. Any thoughts on how to improve my engine performance. I have previously thought about a cold air intake, some new plugs and switching to synthetics.. Any thoughts?

    I also noticed that when i try to put it into 4wheel low, it doesn't like it too much and starts to tremble a little bit.
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    Are you talking about when you floor it or just when you try to merge, for example?

    Unless your plugs haven't been changed in the last 30K miles, new (and I'm assuming by 'new' you might mean 'performance') plugs won't produce a noticeable change in engine performance beyond a few % improvement in fuel economy.

    In my opinion, unless you're making a lot of accompanying modifications, a cold air intake alone is a waste of money for this engine. 5-10 hp simply isn't enough to produce a significant change in power.

    Using a synthetic blend would drop your engine temperature slightly and let you go for longer between oil changes, but I also think this is a waste of money.

    As for the 4WD L, please provide some more details. Did the previous owner service the transfer case? You might also think to check the TC linkage with the transmission - it can come loose even with normal driving.

    Good luck :).
  • DD99ZDD99Z Posts: 1
    I just bought a 99 GC with a 4.0 and it has a bad knock that was coming from the upper end but now since I took the valve cover off and checked the rockers and springs (which seemed good and had correct 20lbs. of torque) the knock seems to come from the lower end. I have no loss of power when accelerating and oil pressure is reading 50 on the guage so I'm assuming it's not the crank. Does anyone have any other ideas before I rip the motor out?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you used a rod or handel to listen on the lower block
    some parts houses have a cheep engine stescope that has expanabul rods to listen to the engine while it is running (could be bad piston rod etc ) you should be able to pin it down closer before you pull engine.
  • try turning ignition on then off 3 times in 2 seconds. should reset
  • oldbajaoldbaja Posts: 2
    4.7L GCL Yes it just decides to shut off sometimes when coming to a stop. Then at idle in gear it like idles down to near zero and then jumps back to 700-800 jerking the vehicle. If your not on the ball you could hit rearend somebody. Also have had the complete dash go blank with the engine still running and driving fine.
  • tcarontcaron Posts: 1
    Hi tony just wondering if you ever found a fix for your jeep speedometer problem, I am having the same problem. If you found the problem could you please email me with the fix thanks Tim, Oh by the way I had changed the speed sensor and that didnt fix it. my email is tcaron@chartermi.net any info would be greatly app.
  • dbmacdbmac Posts: 1
    i have to put the key in the passenger door to deactivate the alarm before i was able to start my 97 cherokee. Good luck!
  • polingpoling Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo and have recently noticed that when I leave it in the garage overnight a large puddle of water forms underneath the left rear wheel. I've wondered of it's condensation but it's a large puddle - 1' x 2' sometimes. It started a couple of weeks after I had my gas tank replaced so I'm wondering if it is related, but have no idea. :confuse:
  • starrzstarrz Posts: 1
    My tailgate won't open, got it used through dealership
    the remote button is broke
    is there any other way to open the tailgate without remote?link title
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    try hitting the unlock button manually on the driver's or front passenger's side door - that should unlock the tailgate as well. good luck.
  • gcristeagcristea Posts: 3
    Hey anyone--just bought a cherokee with the 4.0 engine and have noticed it takes forever to get the engine to full operating temp--is this the norm or do I need a new thermostat or somethingp--thanks--George//
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    Please define what you mean by "forever".
  • I have a 2000 JGC with the 4.0 L engine. Mine heats up quickly, goes to 210 degrees, and stays there.

    I'd check if the thermostat is stuck open (a safety mechanism to avoid overheating). If it is, replace it. Make sure an get a 210 degree thermostat (Cooler is NOT better on the Jeeps... causes an error code, no heat, etc).
  • gcristeagcristea Posts: 3
    I can drive for 20min around town and the temp gauge has barely moved//so far it has only warmed up fully when I drove it home(about 100miles)//since then I haven't needed to drive it more than 15-20min and I get no warm up//thanks for any help//
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    OK, that sounds like a simple thermostat issue - maybe have your shop take a look. Good luck. My ZJ hits about 200 F in less than half of that time.
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    Battery may need replacing in the remote. That was my problem.
  • neb1997neb1997 Posts: 6
    The issue with the 4.0 is usually over-heating. Before you replace the thermostat, perhaps you make sure the gauge is correct. I believe most parts stores have an temp scanner/infra-red style that you can use. That way you don't start disturbing something that may be working well.

    If you replace the thermostat, make sure you get the correct one with the little bleeder valve in it. It looks like a little rivet that can allow air bubbles to escape and not build up in the engine.

    My 4.0 heats up to 210 within 5-10 minutes depending on outside temp.
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