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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • Thanks I'll check it out, also,do you think the splitfire spark plugs and wire set is a good purchase? I wanted to buy it but never thought that they really did any better than regular spark plugs, some people on here swear by them. Might as well go through the whole system and replace any of the other components while I''m at it. Hope my bank doesn't think I have a drug problem taking out so much money every other day.....
  • Does anyone know what the original spark plugs were in the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Mine is the 4.0L engine, but I suspect they are the same for the 4.7L also.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    plug type RC12ECC gap at .035 think they use ac sparkplugs
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    if you'r seeing "lightning" under the hood,your spark plug wires aren't soing their job..replace them..you don't have to but yhe "gold plated-racing"type,but don't get the cheapest either..usually,the 6mm size,like jeep put on it when new,will work fine..
    -split-fire plugs -at 8 bucks per,are pricey. advance had a real cool-split tang-style,where there was a split at the end of th arm,i caught them on sale for 2 bucks per,and they seem to work well
    -i get more improvement from replacing the cap and rotor button..too many times,this gets neglected-cause you can screw up the firing order..
    pit all the old wires in the wire holders..pull the old cap,put on the new one-and button..snap it down..with new wires on new plugs,follow how the old ones-from the wire holders-went..start with the one near a identifiable mark-like a clip-or screw-on th cap..follow them-in sequence-till you run out of old/new wires,the replace coil wire..this way,the short wires are evident,and your not trying to do two things at once..good luck ! ;)
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I forgot to mention you should make sure the engine is cool before doing all this. I usually do this sort of work in the morning after the vehicle has been sitting all night.

    And keep your hands away from any part of the high energy ignition system while vehicle is running or you are trying to start it.
  • I have 165,000 miles. The past 2 months she would stall, backfire, surge. I replaced Cat.& muffler, distributor & rotor cap, plugs & wires, pick-up coil, ignition coil, crankshaft sensor. No check engine light. 3 or 4 days ago after a big back fire check engine light came on. Everything points to water in the gas I put 4 bottles of drier in the last 2 months. She still has same symptoms.
  • pole2pole2 Posts: 17
    I am looking for best audio video system for my Jeep Cherokee Loredo 2007. My did not come with oryginal Navigation/Rear Backup Camera Group – ParkVie, Media Centre 730N CD/DVD/HDD/NAV so I try to put somthing better then this.
    Any opininion ?
    Thank you.
  • Battery drain when ignition is off. I have isolated the problem to the curcuit protected by fuse #7 labeled: Body Amp, Cluster, Body controller. This is a 20 amp fuse and when removed the battery no longer drains down. Need to know the likely circuit that may be at fault. With the fuse removed I have no instrumentation.

    Thanks!
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    on both jeep engines(v8/l6),there is a "idle vacum control valve",or a similarly named thing..-this is probably what makes it surge during idle-even while pulling...replaced one on a ford aerostar-while tracking down a fully plugged catylitic converter..also what's probably what's wrong with some of those engines out there getting bad mileage-clogged exhaust-many converters-especially when they get bad mileage to start with--people drive them TOO EASY-ALL THE TIME !..
    during the winter there isn't mutch you can do-but,when it's warmer,fill it up with the best octane you can get-sunoco has the highest,and DRIVE IT ..for at least a hour!..then,after it's warm(operating temp)find a empty stretch of road,and FLOOR IT!.keeping it wide open untill it shifts!--now this doesn't mean you have to go 150 mph,but,you gotta clear out the pipes..THEN,the rest of the time-drive easy-and you'll get better mileage !..i use the entrance ramp to the freeway..it knows when to shift!
    --when voltswagen first imported the beloved "bug"-back in the -60's(first was 58),they had a lot of them returned..found out american drivers were used to their v-8's,and were not driving the air cooled 4 cyl hard enough..i had one-drove the snot outta it,and ran like a german watch!..
    --take it easy for better mileage,but clear it out when it's hot out,and your jeep will be a happy camper!
  • iv had a problem for a couple of days my 97 jeep cherokee blows a fuse in the pdc when i try to start it and when it blows it dies any ideas folks
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    First, check the integrity of the battery + connection to the starter and the ground of the starter. Fix it if you see anything loose or corroded.

    The starter is a DC electrical motor that is turned on by energizing a solenoid which is an electromechanical switch.

    If you can read an electrical diagram, obtain the Haynes manual and find the circuit that contains your fuse and trace what it is connected to. The solenoid may have its own circuit. Double check amp rating of fuse.

    If you can't pinpoint the problem, replace the starter. Make sure starter comes with new solenoid. You don't want to use old solenoid.

    If starter is only 1-2 year old, something may be wrong with the gear mechanism being turned by the starter which increases mechanical load on motor which makes it draw more current. You'll have to consult a mechanic. It's an unlikely reason, but it's possible.

    I've replaced starters. Take a picture of it before disassembly.

    Always disconnect (-) cable of battery first before you start touching any part of the electrical system cover up (-) post on battery so cable cannot accidentally reconnect.
  • Yeah you're right again loosenut, they aren't doing their job and I found the reason why.. the darn thing seemed to have squirted oil out of the crappy "rocker cover gasket job" they did. Might have gotten into one of the plugs, but also COATED the wires and whole dist. cap with oil as well!!!! Going to be awhile til I can do anything in this weather, but I'll save some money this time on the wires an plugs. thanks for yer help man,

    The Red Rat
  • thanks rwengr, I don't feel like gettin burned or zapped......again. And you're right, sometimes I get that itch to pull over and start messing with stuff when I know everything is nice and hot. I'll give you guys a holler if I have anymore problems...I want to restore/upgrade this truck I see I came to the right place for answers.. Take care and Happy Holidays TO ALL!!!!

    RR
  • What is the best and affordable all year round tires for 1996 Jeep grand cherokee laredo
  • trek87trek87 Posts: 49
    I highly recommend Goodyear Fortera Silent Armor (don't bother with the Triple Tread because they're not good for winter driving). I have a set of 245 70R16's that I've driven in all types of weather and road conditions, and it's some of the best money I've ever spent. I will be due for new tires again in a few months, and I'll be purchasing the exact same tires again.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    hurry over to walllyworld!..
    when i first got my all wheel drive laredo,there were three diffrent sizes on it..and-unfortunately,a whine in the rear axle--a.w.d's HAVE to have matching tires,or you strain the gears in the rear and front axles..
    --while shopping,found walmart had a sale on goodyear wranglers-FO $60.BUCKS EACH!!
    -four tires,mounted and balanced($5 buchs per wheel for the balance)still put a fresh set of
    235/75/15 witch is what my -98 laredo uses,not the 16's(the later models use the bigger stock rims)..for less than $250.00
    but,they'r only 40 k tires(boo-hoo)..i'm one who's thrilled with having a fresh set of matching tires,on what my buget could afford !
    -just checked this week-they were on sale this week !..ya might want to hurry!merry christmas!
  • 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L HEMI, at how many miles should the timing belt be replaced? The user manual and maintenance guide did not mention replacing timing belt at all.

    Thanks,
    OIIIIIIIO
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    the sticker uunder the hood-that describes your engine(4,0 - L6, etc) should have the spark plug part number,along with air filter,oil,etc,,them german engineers that built your "dalmer-chrysler"s.u.v. were real good at documentation..check that sticker out real close..my-98,5.2 had all that..
    -i was impressed with all the info-that's usually not there in other cars. :shades:
  • A few questions here - I have a locking mechanism on the liftgate that is making a crunch noise that makes you nuts. Like gears grinding when you lock or unlock the vehicle. An actuator is the root of the problem. OEM replacement is about 100.00. I should be able to find for less. Anyone else have this problem ?
    I currently have 136K miles on the Cherokee and it has been treating me very well. I want to treat it very well too by giving it a major tune up ( i have given it a tune up about 30k miles ago ) what, exactly, should I do for a major tune up ? remember , this engine is a 4.0 inline 6 ( a super engine ) and does not use the conventional caps and rotor etc. @ idle you can feel a slight hesitation if you listen and are well in tune with how an efficient engine should sound. I want to get it running very smooth and treat it well so it will give me all its got. Professional help only please , I really appreciate opinions but really need advice of a well experienced pro with this make and model and the 4.0 I-6 / Thanks!! John - :)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    dont think they have timing belt use chain instead
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Ask the dealer
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC (4.0L I6) and my liftgate pistons had to be replaced because they wouldn't hold the liftgate up. I had a body shop do it because I think any door repair needs 2 people.

    It took me a couple a months but I got my jeep running good again last summer. I couldn't get it to idle as smooth as it used to. I did a compression test and 1 cylinder was slightly out of spec. I have an engr background so I think it interferes with smooth idle. Acceleration and power are OK

    See the Haynes manual for service recommendations.

    P.S. If its running poorly and std tuneup does not help, consider replacing the intake/exhaust gasket if its never been done. It's not easy, but doable.
  • Thanks tuggajb. Yes you are right that it has timing chain instead of belt. Unlike the timing belt, the timing chain lasts forever in other words it doesn't need to be replaced at certain mileage.

    OIIIIIIIO
  • The transmission will go into four wheel drive part time but wont go into four wheel drive full time. This is on a 2001 grand cherokee with a six cylinder engine. Is anyone else having a similar problem with a solution.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    close-but no cigar..while a timing chail last's maybe double the life of a belt,i spent a winter's weekend replacing the chain -and drive gears(nylon covered aluminum),on a 77 ford f150-351/m/400..-cause that's all i had to get to work..why do things like that wait till crappy weather to go out?? couldn't have been a decent spring day.? !
    -so,chains DO go out,just not nearly as often.. :sick:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    fords are noted for that same as chevy
    jeep last a long time have 210000 miles on a 4.7 never had a problem still dose not use oil between changes and use mobil 1 and change at 7500 miles
  • Jeep is full time 4WD AWD - I get a howling / whining noise from what appears to be the front end of my Cherokee - I only get the noise when I am accelerating and maybe a second or two after I take my foot off the gas pedal. If I am coasting in drive or neutral no noise. As soon as I hit the gas - the noise comes back instantly. The noise gets louder with increased speed - turns to more of a howling. I took it to one place and they said it was the front drive shaft - they took it out, drove it, and said the noise went away.

    Took it to a gear guy and he said not in the drive shaft - he thinks its a rear end noise? Another guy said it could be the transfer case? Anyway to diagnose the problem from the symptoms? I don't know a lot about cars but the it would have to be something that "engages" when pressing on the gas right?

    Also at times if I am backing up and have the wheels cut really hard I will get a clunking noise that seems to be coming from the front end as well. Any help would be appreciated. The Jeep is full time AWD - it should be noted that the noise started when NTB only replaced the two front tires and left the old rears on - a friend said that you have to replace all tires at once or it could harm the transfer case due to the differences in diameter. As soon as I heard that I went back to NTB and them install two new tires on the rear (now a matching set). The noise started very faint but has grown in volume - you can feel the "whine" in the peddle a little bit but becomes most appearant once you hit around 30mph or so
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You definitely need a Chrysler shop manual. I have a 97 JGC and I bought mine on ebay as a PDF file. Below are some excerpts.

    1. Driveline Vibration

    "Tires out of round or unbalanced wheels will cause a low frequency vibration...Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a harsh, low freq vibration....Driveline vibration can result from loose or damaged engine mounts....Propeller shaft vibration increases as vehicle speed is increased. Vibration in a specific range is not usually caused by an unbalanced propeller.Defective universal joints or an incorrect propeller angle are usually the cause of such vibration."

    2. Transfer Case Noise

    "Insufficient or Incorrect lubricant. Drain and refill. Disassembly and inspection may be necessary to locate source of noise."

    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    Given age of vehicle make sure rubber boots on CV joints are not leaking or soaked in oil. If they are not dry, you have a lubricant leak and who know how long it has been leaking.

    Ideally, if you can find a way to operate vehicle without the transfer case, even if speed is limited, it may help you diagnose the problem.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    my 2000 jeep grand ch has made a noise sense 78000 miles now have 214000 miles i just turn up the radio a little bit my noise will go away when you remove front drive shalt but need 4 wheel drive most of the time
    ring and pinion in the front that seams to make the noise i just dont worry bout it
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Probably a worn front end diff. I had a similar noise and thought it was a bearing running out. Proved not to be the case. So put the front of the Cherokee on stands and removed wheels and front half shafts. Noise didn't dissappear but changed. So removed front drive shaft between transfer case and front axle. Noise gone. As I only use the car on the road I left it like that. Runs better, corners better with reasonable understeer (safer) and I get an extra mile or two for my gallon (less friction). Try it.
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