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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and the heater just dosent produce any heat. The temperature of the motor is good but the heater just gets slightly warm. I am looking at replacing the heater core but need to know if that is going to fix the problem or if there are other problems I need to check first because the heater core is an expensive repair job. Any help is welcome.
  • I presume you checked your thermostat. Also if you have air conditioning you may have a control valve that keeps hot water from entering the heater core. If so that may be closed. Hope that helps.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I looked at my 97 shop manual. The diagram shows the blower motor and A/C evaporator mounted in the same duct. Next it shows a "Temperature Blend/Air Door". If this door is open then then the air passes thru the heater core. If not, the heater core is disconnected from the duct.

    Everything is electrically controlled.

    Temp gauge should be up to normal within 5 minutes of leaving the driveway unless you are idling. If it is very slow then your thermostat is stuck open and it will take a long time to get warm air from the heater so for a short 15-20 min. trip you never get much heat. However, it eventually should warm up. Where I liive our coldest days are in the 20's and my jeep is parked outside.

    I am not sure but I don't think there is any control valve to control circulation of engine coolant thru heater core. Check the Haynes manual. Find where the heater hoses go thru the firewall. Make sure they get warm.

    I'd make sure warm up is normal (thermostat OK) and then look at how the duct is controlled. To do it yourself plan on some disassembly of the dash which I always find time consuming, but it can be done.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    spend a few bucks at a reputable repair shop,and have the cooling system power flushed..they can send coolant both ways through heater core,and probably clear any blockage..if core isn't leaking-(interior would smell of hot coolant,pass floor would be wet) then replace core..
    -they will b able to tell u what's wrong..
    -if engine temp gauge is hot,and temp knob is turned all the way in the red zone-you should have heat..you should have a gauge-and normal operatimg temp is around 200% f,..try that b 4 you dive into tearing dash apart..also,online repair manuals are online at advance auto and autozone..more detail than a haynes manual,just print out your findings-keeps you from getting greasy keyboard(lol)
  • 2000 jeep cherokee 6 cyl 4.0 L in park key turns all dummy lights come on but nothing happens shift to neutral jiggle the key and it starts. could this be the neutral safety switch or the linkage out of adjustment and if so need some instructions to repair.
  • When you change the settings dial to--- floor,-- face,-- both-- and defrost does the air flow change? You can feel the heater hoses in the engine compartment as they enter the firewall and if both are hot the heater core is getting flow thru it. I had similar problem but was able to come up with a fix.
    Let me know if there is no airflow change as you dial the switch and I will tell you what I did.
    Good luck
    Smokey
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    yes..sounds like th safety switch to me. try putting it in park "harder".,and see if it helps,but the jiggleing part even in neutral sounds like it's gone out of adjustment,or going bad,and replacement time..
    -advance auto-online has service manuals..look up the part,and after that,yhere's usually a "how to fix it"link..saved me a lot of greif. :sick:
  • Hi I had the same problem, I took my front drive shaft out and my front end noise was gone but was told running it without the drive shaft in it would damage the transfer-case viscus coupler by a reputable a transmission shop, which doesn't make sense. so i replaced both right and left front axles since the boots were bad anyway but the noise and binding is still there. Id love to take the drive shaft out again if I knew for sure it wouldn't damage anything. By the way I drove the thing for a week with out it with out any problems but again the trans guy said its not a good idea so i put it back in. how long have you drove your jeep without the front drive shaft...Thanks
  • I haven't had the front shaft out at all - the repair shop that I took it to removed it for a test drive then put it back in.

    I wish I knew what the problem was - I don't want to spend money rebuilding the front and rear diff, put a new drive shaft in and then find the noise still there and the problem lie within the transfer case - with all those repairs I would spend more than the car is worth - I should probably try to trade it in and just say goodbye to it. The one guy that said the transfer case was the issue mentioned the clutch within the transfer case was probably burnt out because NTB only replaced the 2 front tires and not all 4 tires as required in an AWD car (I didn't know it would mess anything up or I would have replaced all 4). Anyway, since the front tires were smaller diameter it caused havoc in the transfer case he says - makes sense I guess - I was just hoping it was something easier to fix and cheaper!
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Hi Hobartus? I've run it on rear wheel drive only for over a year now. Your 'reputable transmission shop' is looking for business. Forget them. If there is no resistance from the front, the transfer case assumes the wheels are spinning without grip. It therefore applies all the torque to the rear shaft, where you want it. I would only recommend it for road use but remember, it does cause some understeer and maybe a little tyre scrub on tight turns.
  • I have a 04 4.0L grand cherokee. I have a bad pulsation while braking...first instinct was to change my front rotors and pads...wrong. Even my local shop missed it. Took it to Jeep, couldnt find anything but pointed me toward the rear brakes. I felt the pulsation more so in the brake pedal. So I change the rear pads and rotors. Pulsation still occurs however I found that one of the pads on the driverside was not worn. Passengerside both pads wore half way. I check the pins the pads slide on but they work fine. I take it back to jeep and they cant find anything wrong. They checked the pins, pads, caliper, rotor but still the pulsation is there. Sometimes its there while driving and i'm not even on the brakes. Does anyone have any other ideas???
  • Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2002 warmed the engine 5 to 6 times a problem of engine fan was replaced. get started with a sound failure in 2 valves or lister. get started at 4 months to spend the 2nd cylinder with water most notable failure. now the oil pressure drops to 0 after the engine warms up and this stopped running pressure is normal. I'd like your opinion.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    change the oil pressure switch.it's next to the oil filter. either that,or your motor's trashed,oil pump?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I once had an egnine sludge problem. The oil pump pickup in the pan has a wide nozzle covered with a screen. It can get clogged as it sucks up oil. Before buying a new pump, drop the pan and clean everything including the pickup tube if it can be removed. Then install a high performance oil filter.

    If you change your oil and it looks dirty right away or looks dirty within a week you have sludge in your engine. But if clean, you could still have a clogged screen or tube.

    If you have sludge at top of engine, you will have to remove manifold and phyically clean it out. Hope you don't have that.

    When I was working on my car it would drive a few miles OK and then oil pressure light would come on (even after cleaning pan). I had to use Gunk engine flush several times. Hi perf oil filter helped a lot.

    It involved a lot of hard work. Most mechanics would not make this effort on somebody else's car.

    If not an experienced DIYer, get Haynes manual and follow all safety precautions.
  • Sounds like it is the deive shaft itself. When you pulled it out, did you check it for wear, clicking, movement, etc.? When thrashed, these things can make quite a howl!
  • Definitely sounds like a bad drive shaft (typically the one with CV joints). Replace the shaft with a new one with U-Joints (a little over $300). Goes in with 10 minutes' work. Several good suppliers out there.
  • I have a 2004 GC with less than 49k on it I am the second owner and I have had it for a year. I am a rancher so I drive it off road some but not hard, and I have kept up on oil etc. Its always run great until a month ago when it suddenly started a really rough idle and vibration when stopped, it feels like it wants to die but never does and also a sound like a bike with a card stuck in the spokes on exceleration. None of this seems to affect preformance but the check engine light is on. I have replaced injectors, ignition coil, spark plugs. My mechanic has checked everything and can not find what it could be thats causing this. I think it might have something to do with the computer, but I hate taking it to the dealer because I am a young woman and they always try and give me the run around. Does anyone maybe know whats causing these issues. I have to drive it some but I am taking it easy even though my mechanic cant find anything and says everything looks fine. Please help I love my Jeep and want this to stop!! Thanks
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    if check engine light is on you have to read codes other wise you are gust throwing money at you jeep could be thousand things wrong and you are looking in the wrong place
  • The only thing my mechanics diagnostic came up with was the front cylinder not firing... so they replaced the injector. And that didn't do anything, so thats when they replaced the ignition coil. Does the dealership have a different system to check the codes??
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    no use the same tester i assume
    the mech. should take a compression test to see if have right compression on the.
    next check the plug
    should be able to check if have spark at plug
    if not check the wires from computer to coil
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Previous readers are right. Try to determine cause of the problem instead of spending $ on a guess. A dealer could probably fix it, but where I live, the dealer charges $100/hr for labor.

    Go to harborfreight.com and type in keyword "OBDC". They have several code readers you can buy. You can get one for $60 and they also sell the Haynes manual about OBDC for $20.
    There is also a Haynes repair manual for your jeep.

    There is an inexpensive tool you can use to check spark on each plug. I forget what its called. But an auto parts store should know what it is. One at a time you remove each spark plug and put it in the adapter. The adapter lets you observe the spark. Disable the fuel pump by removing the relay or circuit breaker. On my 97 Jeep there is a fuse/relay panel under the hood. You might need the Haynes manual to find it for your car. Have someone crank the engine briefly while you observe the spark. Put that plug back in and then test the next one. Make sure your battery is fully charged before doing this test.
  • Please let me know what you did, Im having the same issue. My air flow does not change. Look forward to hearing from you
  • Hi there! Fix is simple and relatively cheap. Search on EBay for WJ heater fix and you will find a single zone and dual zone kit. Goes in through the glove box door. Let me know if you have questions.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    HORAY! knew it couldn't b that hard ta fix,just took someone who knew what breaks,and where it is..witch is why this forum is here!..thanks-lovmyjeep-!
  • Hello, I need to replace the front calipers on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, can anybody tell me what kind of calipers are coming with these jeeps (Akebono?) and the bolts used are Sae or metric? I want to order online the calipers and one set of sockets (sae, metric?), where is the best place (price) to order them.

    Thank you
  • vmayesvmayes Posts: 1
    First of all let me say I love my Jeep, its like my 8th child. However, like any other child can be its being very whiney and demanding all of a sudden. I have a 2000 jeep grand cheokee, 110,000. moved in July, found new mechanic and had oil change in Sept. almost immed. noticed it had lower oil pressure than normal while idling, then a week later (while my son was driving) it over heated (or so the gauges said), never had any problems before, he shut off immed. and never lost a drop of coolant? Did I mention during this week I also lost my heat, blower still working but blowing cold. keep in mind its Sept. talked to my old mechanic he said heater core and stuck theromostat, ok to drive on untill I make it back to town. He also said when I had my coolant flushed and refilled they may have left air in it and that it would settle in heater core. Then last week, I went out and started it and let it warm up early in the am, went back out 10 min. later and noticed my oil pressure was sky high. Shut it down but it returned to normal a few hours later. But, yesterday, I lost all oil pressure. Still measures fine, not making any noise what so ever. whats the deal, could all this be related? is my baby just going crazy? could it just be gauges?
  • I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Right before -Xmas it wouldn't start- it turned out to be the security system. It was reset. Now there is a clicking noise that is coming from around the glove compartment. The noise is there no matter if the car is running or not & no matter whether the key is in the ignition or not- it still makes the noise. I was wondering what this could possibly be and how to get it to stop making the noise? Thanks for any help.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    oil pressure could be oil pressure sender not to $$$

    air in system should be able to bleed that out have bleed screw by thermostat
  • cminchcminch Posts: 2
    hi, i have an 03 2.7crd and i have been told to get a new set of o rings fitted to my fuel injectors, does anyone know if this is this a big job? is it possible for diy?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    It may be circuit breaker or relay that's oscillating (turning on/off repeatedly). In my 97 JGC the internal fuse panel is in the kick board underneath the glover compartment. There is also a panel in the engine compartment. They contain mostly fuses, but they have other components. If it's not there I suspect its related to air/ventilation control. These are my guesses. Otherwise you will have to trace wiring diagrams and remove suspect components.

    Disconnect (-) of battery while removing or replacing components, then reconnect it to test.
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