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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • ">I have JGC 97 with Strait 6 Cyl, Auto Trans,4x4 (130,000 odom) - After about 5 minutes of driving it stutters and wants to stall between 45 to 60 miles an hour and seems to do it when in the overdrive gear, while on open roads( at cruising speeds). Happens mostly while going up inclines. The problem doesn't seem to exist while in lower gears but at one time it did happen while driving in 1st and 2nd gears - until I added some Sea-Foam. Now it seems to happen only in overdrive...There is also sometimes what appears to be occasional very mild slippage while gear changeing thru 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th but I don't always notice it.There are no code lights flashing indicating any problems..... I am thinking about changing fuel filter which is in the tank and I will also replace the fuel pump - while the tank is dropped...Any suggestions? Jeepster98.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    filters-or flushing's a good idea,but it also sounds like your six cyl might be missing..try tuning it up..overdrive at 50 mph puts the tack at 15/18 thousamd r.p.m's that's pretty slow-specially if your going up any kind of hill.. plugs/cap/rotor...then see how it runs..
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 4x2 with I6, high miles . Everything I say is time consuming and vehicle will be offline several weeks and success is not guaranteed. A mistake could make it worse. Review Haynes manual for all procedures below.

    My approach was fix it or junk it. Difficult problems take time to diagnose and mechanics are $$. The dealer is $$$. My dad replaced a fuel pump on his cadillac and the problem was a loose ground wire. But if you have a crackerjack mechanic, they can save time.

    Check fuel pressure first. It is very easy to check on this vehicle. It already has a schraeder valve on fuel rail. My fuel pump was OK.

    Next, do a compression test. I had one cyclinder that was a little below acceptable range. My mileage was 165K.

    See Autozone about borrowing gauges. See harborfreight.com if you want to buy your own.

    I did plugs, wires, and coil. (You have to remove plug for compression test so why not). Helped a little, but not dramatic.

    Remove and inspect fuel injectors. Mine looked OK, but I did replace the O rings. Replacing injectors is expensive.

    OK engine idle eliminates a lot of potential problems. If not, that's another story.

    In the Haynes manual under emission controls, they tell you how to check every component. You need a voltmeter with stiff probes so you can backprobe. Make sure you don't short anything.

    The next thing I did helped the most. I read it somewhere so I can't take credit. Replace the manifold gasket. On the I6, intake/exhaust manifold share the same gasket. Heat and vibration deteriate the gasket and loosen manifold turning it into a distributed vacuum leak. Not easy. I have 10 different 3/8 extensions and needed all. You might try re-torquing the bolts first to see if it helps.

    Make sure you clean engine intake. Fingers and a rag. No easy way. The dirt should be hard and dry. If oily/moist could be a valve problem. It should not be wet. I had one oily/moist input on the cylinder with low compression.

    After this you will really understand your engine so repairs become educated guesses instead of guesses. You might find something I didn't list.

    There is one more test I can only describe briefly. With an RMS voltmeter you can measure signal from engine computer that controls fuel injectors. RMS value should increase as you increase rpm. Mine was OK. Need an electronic savvy mechanic for this one.

    I worked on my car Summer 2008. Gave it to my kid in Sept for his sr year and he loved it.
  • quaziquazi Posts: 5
    Once I understood that the primary latch was a slider, it was easy. Just slide the orange tab to the left or right (I was sweezing it, not a good idea!), then the second latch was disconnected by puting a scew driver in the housing, releasing the latch and connector. The rest was really easy!
  • It’s probably been a year since I talked to you about the intermittent starting issues I was having with my Jeep. I was convinced that the problem was the result of a fuel pump failure. After purchasing a new pump, my mechanic told me there was no reason to install it because my fuel pressure and pump were fine. When I brought it in last, they claim that no error codes were being produced by the computer. Shortly after I picked it up, the check engine light came on but it continued to run fine. Occasionally, the jeep’s symptoms would return (maybe 1 in every 50-75 starts) but after waiting a few minutes, the engine would fire right up so I paid little attention to it. A few months ago I noticed an ever so slight noise coming from the engine that I had not noticed before. The best I can describe it as is a faint chirp sound almost with a hint of the sound of slight vacuum pressure. The most interesting thing about this noise is that it continues for a second after the ignition is turned off. I first noticed the sound when I parked in the garage, turned the engine off and heard it when I jumped out of the truck. After noticing it, I cranked it back up and could hear the faint chirp, ping, suck noise.
    I’ve been researching the symptoms and asking around a couple people have mentioned two sensor issues on Jeep Grand Cherokees that have been problematic: crankshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor. I’ve located them on my engine but I can’t justify digging around and replacing them when I really don’t know for sure if either of them are causing the problem.
    Does my rambling bring any ideas to your mind? Any advice you can share would be much appreciated. Btw: the jeep last started 2 weeks ago. I’ve made approximately 10 attempts to crank. It turns over but acts as though there is either no fire or no fuel… I’ve read that a bad crank sensor will disable the vehicle???
    Anyway, let me know what you think. I’m guessing I should probably just take it to a jeep dealership at this point to see what the computer is saying now that it won’t start at all.
    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
    4.7 L Power Tech
    All Wheel Drive
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    This sounds a little bit like a problem I had with my 97 jeep years ago. The problem was the starter. Here's how my mechanic explained it to me. With age the starter develops bad spots. It's like roulette. When starter motor armature is in the right place, vehicle is hard if not impossible to start. Takes a lot of current. To make it worse starter is drawing more current than normal which runs down battery. Start and drive 50 miles OK. Make 2 or 3 short trips, not OK. Solution was to replace starter. You may also want to inspect cable from + battery to starter. Clean or replace depending on what you see. Always disconnect (-) of battery before doing electrical work.
  • There is nothing wrong with the starter. I apologize if I didn't properly describe my jeep's symptoms. The engine always turns over with gusto. When the engine doesnt' start it isn't for lack of turnover. It is lack of combustion/ignition. Either no fuel or no spark. Thanks for trying though.
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    my problem is i have a 95 jgc 4x4 6 cylinder automatic. when it changes into 2nd gear it seems to takes forever to change into 3rd. i have to speed up and back off the gas and then itll go in 3rd. it has 128000 miles on it . i have had the trans filter and fluid changed. but get this when i left the service area where i had this done it changed everytime on a dime, but 5 miles later it started back to doing the same thing. i check the trans fluid all the time to make sure its up to tee. any ideas.
  • chasew03chasew03 Posts: 1
    So, I just knocked out a heater core replacement in my 2000 WJ Limited with the dual zone controls. While I had everything apart I replaced my blend doors and recirc door that so commonly fail. I thought I did a good job and had no issues until I turned on the heat....

    The heat comes on when I select the "cold" setting and the A/C comes on when I select the "hot" setting. I obviously hooked something up backwards or installed a door in the open position when it should have been closed or something to that effect. Other than the temps being backwards everything else works fine.

    Can anybody tell me exactly what it is that I need to change?

    I want to be able to know exactly what I'm trying to do before tearing out the dash again! It's kind of hard to do a trial and error when the dash is out. You can't exactly turn on the controls and test things.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • Hi -- sorry if this is in the wrong place but Im having a problem with my Grand Cherokee (1993).

    For the past few months the 'Check Oil Level' Message has been coming up on the computer notification system over and over again. I have changed and checked the oil several times, added 2 extra quarts, and done everything I can think of to get it to stop. I am wondering, what are my options here.. Is there a way I can disconnect or remove something to atleast get it to shut off?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    try your local auto parts store--usually those guys will come out-and help you diagnose the problem!..
    -i've worked on cars for many moons,and when things went "computerised",everything got even more complex..
    where the parts guys help,is they sell a lot of parts,and common problems follow the engine-or brand of car..
    --then,add -german engineers-who do things verry well,but-at times,their tolerances aren't dealing with a twenty some-year old car !..as your-and my "dalmer/chrystler-jeep is..it drives great,but fixing it is a whole nother level of aggrevation!

    --look for a "low oil sensor"..and forget the computer.!.!.. READ THE DIPSTICK ! ! !
    --cause-if you overfill it with oil-you'll blow out the seals,and end up with a lot more trouble than you got now!..
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    hook up th throtle cables backwards??
    see if th butterfly-air intake valve is working right..
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    cap?rotor?wires?coil?--probly cap-n-rotor..
    --when it's not starting,check the basics..fuel+spark+air=fire !
  • linrlinr Posts: 14
    i have a 95 jgc 4x4 6cyl. auto. my problem is the front wipers only works on low and high. how do i get the intimediate to work? and if i have to replace the motor, how do i do this?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If it was the motor, it wouldn't work at all. The problem is most likely the control mechanism. I replaced motor for rear wiper on my jeep and problem was the control switch. You will probably have to replace the entire stem that has the wiper control.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    probly contacts in th switch,,..and that probly includes the whole multi-function lever(turn/hi beams/wiper)..
    -ever r+r'd a sterring colum switch?..
    personally,that's one of those things i'd problt just live with,as long as they still work! had many old cars where that wasn't even a option..
    --other option,learn to press in-like for wasker-but not waste fluid?!..tha'd work ! :sick:
  • My son-in-law is having a problem with the car losing power for several minutes while driving. \r\nThere will be a sever lose in power and drop in RPM. Car feels like it is going to stop running. This can last for several minutes.
    This problem started in the last couple of weeks and is getting worse.
    Fuel Problem?
    Electrical Problem.
    Injector Problem?
    Karl
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    edited April 2010
    have ya done th basics.tune op,etc? even opened the hood,and checked for woodland creatures ?..
    sorry,not a good time,but lots post here-b4 they even open th hood and check oil !!!!
    it wastes time,
    --see if the car's TOO quiet..if so,clogged exhaust..climb under itwith a =-LARGE hammer-,and beat the hell out of the catylitic convetrter.!...it worked for me..
    ---and -quit "babying it !..we used to have a thing called a "tenesee tune up",where a REAL driver,would take grandpa's rolling sofa,getb it warm-then---KICK IT IN THE BUTT!!,and watch large black clouds of mcrap come out the yailpipe!..nowdays,all that collects in the converter...
    -americans but crappy gas-din't tune-cause it still starts-then wonder why "it ain't runnin??..try -maintence-- :mad:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Do a fuel pressure check to eliminate obvious. Since you have an intermittent problem it will probably be OK. I would also replace the fuel pump relay just to make sure it isn't something simple. They get hot and over time the heat deteriates components.

    My guess is engine electrical or dirt (e.g. dirty throttle that sticks).

    I would inspect ignition wires and pull each plug and inspect. Pull the boot and not the wire! Only replace them if you see a problem, but not if they look OK. In my experience, I've not seen a tuneup solve a significant problem when plugs and wire pass physical inspection.

    But if you have a broken or fouled sparkplug that's different. When you install ignition wire you should feel a slight click when it mates with the plug electrode.

    You will probably need a trained/experienced mechanic who will know exactly what to check and how to make an intelligent guess of a solution. With this type of problem, what you end up with is trial and error.
  • will67will67 Posts: 2
    hey, I have the same problem about 2 years ago, I had the problem for example after running the truck for couples of stops it wont start on. In order to turn on would have to give it couples of hrs or even a day and the problem was the crankshaft position sensor its located some were by transmission dont remember.
    I hope its help,
  • will67will67 Posts: 2
    Help! well I happy with my JGC have for 5 yrs + whit 235 th... miles, very good car can't complain, but right now its shutting/turning off during a complete stop, the good thing is that I'm able to start it righ back on after turning /shuting off or by given 2 to 3 mins, can somone please advice or give a hand?
    thanks.
  • I suspected that this might be the cause of my problem based on my research. Did you replace the part yourself or did it require a mechanic?
    It looks like the sensor (airtex 5s1730) can be purchased for around $30. I'm hoping this might be a quick and easy fix. Could I be so lucky?
    Thanks for replying
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i yhink will76 is right..especially if you've got the six cyl..
    --it's a royal pain to get to,as it's on the BACK of the motor,using the flywheel for the moving part of the sensor system..it's only the size of a ball point pen,but i heard where you gotta loosen the motor-to get it out..!...
    --best left to someone who'se done it b4..
    maybe 200- :sick: 500 in a shop..
  • lance64lance64 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 1999 4wd GC.You are hearing noise from the front hub bearings. Mine started getting noisy at 135,000 miles. The recommended method to check them (jacking up and pulling sideways on the wheel to check for play) did not indicate they were bad. But, I suspected them anyway because whenever I would spin a front wheel by hand, I could hear the noise (same pitch, but not as loud).

    I put the best bearing assemblies I could afford on it (Timken, purchased through Autozone @ around $80 each side), and the noise completely went away! For these hearings, you buy the whole assembly, not just wheel bearing like on a car. These assemblies are very strong.

    When I removed the old bearing assemblies, they still had grease in them and still turned freely, but I could feel needle-spaced racheting on the left one when turning then slowly by hand. So that was the problem. Always replace them in pairs. Good luck with your Jeep.
  • bruno5bruno5 Posts: 5
    Hi guys, I need help with my 4.0 please. I'ts got 135,00 hiway miles on her. Very good shape yet. When I go out in the morning it starts first thing fine and dandy[ If the battery's not dead, just replaced it but it still drains], But when I stop somewheres and come back out it starts but runs very rough, like it's not running on all cylinders. If I drive it a block, it settles down and runs fine. It seems to need to be driven a block to sort itself out, it won't settle down just sitting and running.
    I tried some tune-up things- plugs, wires, fuel filter- runs the same. This problem is not consistent, it's not every restart.

    Thanx for any help--Bob
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Get the Haynes manual and do all the emission control checks. Check for vacuum leaks. In addition, something may be draining your battery overnight and/or alternator output may be inadequate. Vehicle should run off the alternator, but if it cannot provide enough current, engine will draw from the battery.
  • bruno5bruno5 Posts: 5
    Thanx for your reply. In reply to the emission control part, what item would cause the jeep to start like it's running on 3 cylinders, yet run perfect after 1 block? I believe I wrote that in the post.

    TX...Bob
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 . I have recently had the motor rebuilt. and they tell me, my pre cat and aft cat are plugged. It is very expense for these. I also live in San Diego, Ca. So, the dealer is the one that carry the cats. I need other place or someone who can sell me there used ( but good ) Catalytic Converter. I have found after market cheaper. But they won't ship to California even if they are OB-II. Can anyone help me.
  • Yes, I am interested as well. This happens in my 2000 JGC occasionally, especially when it is warm. Cold starts don't have the issue most of the time.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    cali emissions control board are the strictyest inth land,

    lived in lala land for 8 yrs,and-no-NOBODY will sell you used cat converters..it's illegal,plus,the platinum in those makes th resale value utrageous..

    my best sugestion..
    first,is th exhaust on th car> if they're off,take a soft-brass HAMMER,and knock th crap out of them.. i found a old ford aerostar i got way cheap..would start,but when you'd try to accelerate-even in park,it'd die.. went to the exhaust pipe,and listened--it was TOO quiet.. figured it was kinda like "th bananna in th tailpipe" syndrome,where in fact-=like most american drivers-they "baby" their cars,and seldom clear out th exhaust-by "kicking it in th butt"every now and then..add to that,the cheap CRAP they sell us for gasoline,and the converter gets plugged..out of shear desperation,i climbed under it,and took my 28/oz framing hammer-and tried my best to knock a hole in th converter...th metal(after th shield came off),was so soft,it wouldn't make a hole..ten minutes of really hitting it,i gave up-for then..just to try it,went and started it up..a HUMONGUS cloud of coal black smoke came out th tailpipe,and that van never ran better!!...i did give it a new o2 sensor,but drove that truck till th wheels fell off-for over five yerars !
    you might want to try knocking th crap loose,maybe put a new muffler,as those are only $50 buks or so,some new o2 sensors,and give THAT a try ! :lemon:
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