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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • As far as your alarm problem, the easiest thing you can do is get a new remote and program it...they are not cheap...check ebay. You need to replace the DISARM SWITCHES...there is one in each front door. They are attached to the lock cylinders inside the front doors. When you put the key in the door and turn it, the disarm switch tells the computer to disarm the alarm. It is common for these switches to fail or only work intermittently.
  • Also...try reconnecting the battery with the key in the 'on' position...that might allow you to get the engine started.
  • Be advised that all PCMs (engine computers) are under warranty (federal regulations) for 8 years or 80,000 miles.
    See your dealer if you are less than 8yr/80k
  • I think you need to replace the pump again---this time get one from the dealer. There is only one pump for your vehicle and they are readily available.
  • 1999-2004 Grands have a problem with the factory battery cracking at the negative post, which causes acid to leak out and the terminals to corrode. The corrosion causes the bolt/nut in the cable end to sieze up, and when you get the battery replaced, the cable end cannot be loosened or tightened properly. So many starting problems are caused by loose and corroded cable ends. If you have 2 pair of Vise-grip pliers, you can remove the corroded bolt/nut and thoroughly clean the cable ends with baking soda or battery cleaner. Use and old toothbrush or wire brush. Let the cable ends soak in a baking soda/water solution overnight if possible. Get new bolts and nuts from a hardware store and install so you can properly tighten the battery connections. THIS IS SO IMPORTANT...the battery is the heart of your electrical system. I see vehicles towed in all the time, the only problem being poor connections at the battery.
  • Assuming your battery connections are clean and tight, it is probably the starter, especially if you have the 4.7L engine. I have seen it many times.
  • replace the vacuum check valve---it is in the vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold to the firewall where the vac line goes thru the firewall to the a/c system
  • It is probably sun damage, especially if they feel rough to the touch. They can be polished, but it usually doesn't last long. Replace them, and your front end will look like new.
  • Where about is the a/c drain on the frame located?
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Just do a search under A/C drain and you will get a whole bunch of messages on this problem. The drain exits the passenger compartment into the inside of the frame rail on the passenger side just forward of the firewall. It is almost impossible to see and is impossible to reach or clean from outside the vehicle without drilling a larger access hole in the frame. It is MUCH easier to access from inside the vehicle under the dash on the passenger side just above the footwell. Buy yourself a SMALL rubber plug and then drill a hole in the center of the round plastic drain area you can see inside the car. You will have good access to clean the drain and will be able to do it again later easily if need be. Do the search. As I recall someone posted a pretty good illustration of what you need to do.
  • I own a 1998 JGC Laredo and I love it but I need some help clarifying some things. First off, I have put 3 manifolds into this SUV and wonder if anyone else has had this same luck with manifolds with the 98 JGC Laredo.
    One of my concerns. My carpet on the passenger side is always soaked no matter how many times I dry it out and vac the water up. I see the post above about fixing the ac problem BUT when I am parked on a hill or an angle, The water drains fine. IS there something else I might be missing?
    Next thing i am curious about and wonder if anyone has ever experienced this. I havent had mechanical problems with ym jeep. Little things here and there but nothing major untill today. I got gas at a Wesco gas station ($10) and a lotto scratchy. It was a winner so I decided to stop at the next gas station to cash it in. (1 mile down the road). I shut it off, went inside , came back out and started it to leave. It started, chugged and stalled. From there on it would crank and crank and crank But wouldnt fire or start at all. I am lost as to what it could be and dont want to spend lots of $$$$ while they (mechanics) seem to ponder on an outcome. If someone can help me with ANY of these issues I would be greatly appreciative. Thank you :shades:
  • I have an 04 jgc-ltd with cli-xtl sys and a somewhat different prob.
    It has started acting up. When the outside temp is 65, and the cli-xtl knobs are set to 75, the a/c light is on and it is blowing cold air. If I bump the knobs up to 80, then it pumps heat.
    And, just the reverse - outside temp 85, knobs set to 72, sys blows heat. Turn knobs to 65 and it blows cold.
    No funny noises, just unpredictable output.
    Any ideas??
    Paul
  • Go to WJJEEPS.COM to learn how to run a diognostic on the auto climate control.
  • I own a 97 JGCL, and my check engine light just came on. It has never been on before after 8 months of owning the vehical. I did the ignition thing when you turn it off and on, and it gave me a reading of 12,37,55. I did some reasearch and the I think the #37 is the problem. It is the Torque Converter Clutch, No RPM Drop At Lockup, which means Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement, and it also had another explanation for the code which was, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuits; or Park/Neutral Switch Failure, which means, Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch. I dont really know hat all this means, but I would really like to know how I could get this thing fixed. Could anybody please help me!?
  • HI,
    I have a 2k JGC with over 161k miles and it actually has been pretty much a dream vehicle- besides the typical window, brakes,rear lights issues- but....today driving home in a foggy and wet environment my dash indicators (ABS, Brakes) and radio.cd player started flashing weirdly (odometer, too) and when I took it in they said it could be a myriad of things to include the PCM (there is some belt that is tore up) or the alternator and the battery has one bad cell (all due to this PCM issue). Has anyone else experienced this or is it BS? Please let me know. Also- have there been recall issues concerning this? Thank you, Liz
  • jdm74jdm74 Posts: 1
    When turning sharp, its a all stop moving, by accelerating the jeep moves but it clunks and pops and bangs. When cold its ok, after 15 to 20 miles then turning into a parking space.
    I've replaced the differential fluid in both rear ends, both front axle shafts, front drive shaft, rear drive shaft u-joints, transfer case fluid.
    ANY IDEAS
  • Similar problem with my 93 GC. Did the "bad ground at the frame rail for fuel pump" suggestion fix your problem? If so where is this "frame rail" located - by the fuel tank?? Thanks for your reply.
  • Sounds like it may be the Viscous Coupler in the Transfer case - a common problem, expensive to fix, may only be an irritant if left alone. See other threads in this section about this.
  • Does anyone know how to install a crankshaft position sensor in a 1997 Grang Cherokee?? Thanks
  • I need to replace mine, does anyone know how to do it? Please help, I bought the part and the Chilton isn't very thorough on replacing it! I just can't get my hand behind the engine, do I need to do it from below? Thanks
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