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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • I found the problem with my jeep. After replacing the battery terminals, cadillac convertor, pcv valve....It all came down to being the fuel pump. Yeah, my jeep is a smooth riding girl! Went and bought a manual to do it myself, after purchasing this it broke everything down and helped me find the problem. For the fuel pump it cost me 234.00 at O'Riellys and I fixed it myself. So if you had problems with your jeep sputtering, stalling or sometimes not wanting to start check your fuel pump cause thats what fixed mine after trying all the other things, I could have saved a lot of money in the long run but it was worth it. She purrs like a kitten and is ready to get up and go.
  • we just got a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6 banger, and has only 104,000 mile on it. when acelerating and the rpm's reach about 3000, a weird whine occurs and gets stronger the faster the engine races, and gets weaker as the rpm's drop,. under normal acceleration is doesnt do it, because the rpm's dont reach 3000 normally, so it does it when i really romp on it. its a very cool noise, it sounds like a turbo almost, but since it belongd to a 90 year old man i doubt thats it lol. im just wondering if theres something working itself loose or if they all do that. any thoughts would be great
  • we also have a 1994 grand cherokee with the 5.2 v8 automatic. in the mornings, when its shifted into reverse, it takes about 3-4 seconds to finally click into gear and then does it when shifted into drive. but after that fisrt 2 times, it shifts perfectly. ive checked the fluid and its full. is the transmission beginning to slip?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    alternator bearing?

    MODERATOR

  • what's that
    and would that make a sound such as this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    It's the bearing that keeps the pulley spinning on the front of the alternator (the pulley that the belt spins around). It's just a little ring of brass or bronze that presses onto the alternator armature.

    MODERATOR

  • hmmmm by the sounds of it, i would think that it would be making the noise at any rpm, not only at EXACTLY 3000, but i could and probably am wrong.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    One test you could do is to open the hood and have someone bring the engine up to 3,000 rpm in neutral. If there is no noise, then you know it isn't engine related but possibly transmission related (transmission pump noise).

    MODERATOR

  • ahhhhh ill have to do that its a very god idea. thanks much
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    I had this problem last year on my 2000 JGCL 4x4 4.7L V8

    In my experience and according to my local dealer when all the gauges start acting up it's related to a charge issue one way or the other.. I have seen two different things happen with my Jeep. 1. All the needle gauges slowly went all the way right then back down to the left when I went to turn the key = Effect bad battery...
    2. when all my gauges started going bizerk (seen this on two occasions) 1st time the effect was bad alternator, 2nd time it was a loose battery connection (tight enough to start every time, but not tight enough for the gauges and computer to keep from wigging out.. You wouldn't believe how crazy it started acting before I figured it out.

    Suggestion: Go to your local Oriely's or Auto zone and have them test your alternator ( a free service ) and in the mean time make sure your battery terminals are tight.

    PS.. It could also be a loose ground wire somewhere else on the vehicle, I believe the JGC 99 and later grounds in three different places.

    Afterthought: I think it's amazing how often a dealer service center or car care center recommends that it may be the PCM, I guess there's always a chance it could be, but three out of the four times that I've heard that (since having my Jeep) it never has been.. The fourth is pending with a different problem I'm having now. :cry: These Jeeps are comfortable and fun to drive but they sure can be a headache.

    Good luck, I hope this helps you too.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    My book doesn't specify how to gain access either, but when I replaced mine in a 2000 JGCL I had to do it from underneath.

    Locating the sensor is the hardest part, with getting to it being a close second.

    It looks like yours would be best accessed from underneath the vehicle on the driver's side, it should be located a little over half way up the side of your transmission bellhousing you're basically going to look where the tranny bellhousing meets the engine block.

    You may already have the rest but just in case I'll give you what I've got here...

    (six cylinder models)
    1. Disconnect the crankshaft sensor wiring harness connector. (This can be tricky but be patient with it as you don't want to break it.. There is a clip you press to release then pull and wiggle a bit)

    2. Remove the sensor mounting bolt(s) and remove the sensor (note the position of the sensor before removing, it will simplify the installation of your new one.) On models with automatic transmission, the sensor is retained by a single bolt and the sensor bolt hole is slotted. (4.0L 6 Cylinder models have two mounting bolts)If installing the original sensor, obtain an original-type spacer from a dealership parts department and apply it to the tip of the sensor to properly set the sensor depth. A new sensor should be equipped with the paper spacer in place (check that it is, because damage to the sensor will occur at startup if the sensor-to-driveplate clearance is not correct.)
    3. To install the sensor (equipped with paper spacer) lightly press the spacer against the driveplate and tighten the bolt to 60 in-lbs.
    4. Connect the crankshaft sensor wiring harness connector.

    And thats it I hope this helps, it's not the same without pictures *shrugs* but hopefully will at least get you started. I think it should get the job done.
  • I have a 1996 JGC with Select-trac 4-wheel drive. When the case is in the full-time position, it should allow the front and back wheels to turn freely, without the bucking and binding on dry or wet ground like the part-time position. It usually works well, but sometimes, it seems to act like it's in part-time instead or it gets stuck in part-time when you go back to the 2-wheel drive position. Is there an adjustment that needs to be made or a procedure other than the lever position I'm not doing?

    Thank you in advance!

    Mark
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    PCV - Below is an excerpt I found on a free website
    It sounds like your problem only they explained it so well I didn't want to change anything so I pasted it.
    I underlined the part that caught my attention in relation to your problem.
    ---------------------------------------------
    What's so positive about Positive Crankcase Ventilation?

    It is called positive since there is a positive force that removes the combustion vapors from the crankcase. That force is vacuum - just like the vacuum that sucks the dirt out of your rugs and furniture only this vacuum is derived from the engine, not from a Hoover. Vacuum derived from the engine is a rather sensitive resource, that is you don't want to steal any vacuum from the intake manifold when the engine is idling. However, when the engine is running at highway speed the engine can afford to allow a "vacuum leak" to occur via the PCV Valve. It is a metered flow of air, controlled by a needle valve inside the PCV Valve. When the engine is at idle and vacuum is high the force of the vacuum overcomes the force of a spring inside the PCV Valve and it is closed down to allow a flow of about three cubic feet per minute. When the throttle is opened and the intake manifold vacuum is reduced (closer to atmospheric) then the spring in the PCV Valve forces the valve to open allowing up to six cubic feet per minute of flow to occur.

    So, what goes wrong? First, the spring can become weak or break and the valve will not open at all. This results in no removal of engine vapors and a build up of pressure in the crankcase. The air will actually flow backwards into the air cleaner. One symptom of this is oil in the air filter housing at the entrance of the PCV tube. This can also occur if the Blow-By is too high. Second, the valve can get gummy and stick in the open position allowing too much flow at idle conditions. This results in a rough idle or a stalling condition. In either case, just whip out the Visa card and spring for a new one! They only a few bucks.

    A quick check to see if it is faulty is to shake it rather violently and see if the ball inside rattles - if it does then it is probably OK. Then with the engine running, put your finger on the end of the valve. You should feel a strong vacuum. If you don't then the valve is clogged and/or the tube is leaking. Fix or replace as necessary.
    --------------------------------------------

    These are easy to replace, 99% of the time no tools needed.
    And for the full article of the above visit http://www.misterfixit.com/pcvvalve.htm

    Good Luck
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    2000 JGC Laredo 4x4 4.7L V8 Automatic
    87,000mi

    Intermittent problem may be fine a few days then run terrible a few days. No apparent connections to when it runs good or bad... i.e. Every time I fill up with gas, turn the a/c on, reach 40mph, ect...

    Codes have been reset and recently triggered the following:

    P0121 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
    P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1
    P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2
    P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4
    P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 6
    P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 7
    P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 8
    P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input

    I have already checked vacuum hoses, replaced camshaft, and crankshaft position sensors, replaced applicable relays in the power distribution center, checked all my grounds and battery terminals, consequently my battery and alternator both are less than a year old (I had orielys retest them anyway, and they are fine)

    VEHICLE SYMPTOMS: When it acts up it jerks and cuts out really bad, engine light comes on. On bad days it dies at while coasting and at stops.
    When it's doing good it does really good like there's never been a problem with it.

    I need help understanding what the first code is exactly (is it telling me the problem is with the throttle position sensor? or with an attached component? or is it just a misreading because of something else? And suggestions on what to do.

    Obviously it's hard to believe that 6 of my 8 injectors would malfunction at the same time as a result of actual bad injectors. I believe these malfunctions are an effect of a different cause, I just don't know what.

    I took the vehicle to a car service center to double check my personal findings and double check that the grounds, relays, and what not are all in fact good (and they were)

    The only help any service center, or dealership can suggest is to replace the PCM (at the low low price of nearly $1000.00) *sarcasm*

    MY THEROY: The fuel level sensor code indicates a problem with the fuel sending unit which is of course attached to the fuel pump, this is supported by the fact that when I top off the tank with gas the gauge inside the vehicle goes to empty until I hit about 3/4 then it seems to function properly. I know that the fuel pump has not bee replaced since the vehicle was manufactured.

    I plan to replace the fuel pump, sending unit, and filter followed by a pressure test to ensure that the pump hasn't just been working intermittently causing a lack of pressure build up.
    This of course in turn would effect the amount of fuel being ignited by the spark plugs which in turn could effect the voltage spikes of multiple injectors. (the service center told me that the injector malfunction codes are set when an injector fails to produce a high enough voltage spike which is monitored by the PCM which will try to compensate in whatever way it thinks best and of course set the code.)

    Please comment on your added suggestions, or if you have any additional knowledge, or if you see fault in my theory.
    You won't hurt my feelings; I'm willing to try anything that makes any since at all. (Short of replacing the PCM, until I've undergone all other possibilities.)

    Thanks in advance for your assistance
  • My left rear brake light works when the car is in park but as soon as I shift into gear it stops working. Also when the running lights are on and the car is in gear and I apply the brakes all lights on the rear left fixture go out. I've tried replacing the socket that the light bulb goes into but that did not work. Any ideas?
  • My Dad has a 94 Grand Cherokee Ltd. 318CI or 5.2L. He bought it brand new, has 51,000 miles. He has drove Jeeps since 1946, owned since 1948. I get a GM discount of $8,000. to $12,000. off sticker, he still drives & owns only JEEPS!! Today he went to the store, turned the ignition key off, and the blower motor kept running like on slow speed. He took the key out, moved the climate switches, still keeps running on slow speed. He left it run, went and got his caulk and came home. Again, when he took the key out the blower motor keeps running. He removed the neg. battery cable and killed it till I got home. I checked and it did the same for me but, in the climate control on the right side where the Temp (inside) and * for A/C on, and fresh air or recirculate is. A "Er" pop's on for about 3 seconds, and goes out. Remember, in 1999 Jeep "Recalled" GC's to replace the A/C's & Heaters. We should not have any "Error" in the climate control, but what did they put in? A 94,95,96,97,98,or 99??? We don't know, I called our Dealer, my cousin work's there, not repairing, RAT'S, but he did ask his buddy's and there at a blank??? Anybody else have this happen, or know what to do? :confuse: This is my first posting here, so far I like! I belong to a couple of others for my stuff, your post's here seem quite nice & helpfull. But I have seen a couple of things that have got to me. A lot of American bashing, like it's broke you should have bought Foreign!! That don't go on the other forum's, there kicked off. This message is for Jeeps & Jeep people!!! And beings winter will be here in Ohio this coming weekend, when I pull a Foreign 4x4 out of the ditch or snowbank, I charge them DOUBLE, helps out on the fuel for the 318's & 360's Jeep People!! Have Fun In The Snow & Sand & Mud Guy's & Gal's!!! :shades:
  • Check to see if they have a current "Recall" on Tail-Lights. Next find out if your bulbs is mounted into a "Circuit Board", I can't remember if the 01's are or not. You might stop at a Boneyard and look at one thats out, see if it has a Board! GM checked my 03 Trailblazer Tail-Lights, and they was O.K.!! But some people had trouble, a month later I had to take mine in for replacement Via a "Recall", and mine was O.K. :shades:
  • dcat3dcat3 Posts: 1
    My 1998 grand Cherokee is haveing the same issues. did you ever get an answer as to what the cause was.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    Car companies went international years ago and GM/Ford sell a lot of cars around the world. Last I looked, some German company even purchased Chrysler. :blush:

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • tj327tj327 Posts: 3
    I had the exact same problem with my 01 GC a few months ago. After replacing the socket with no luck, took it to dealer. It was the circuit board.
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