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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • You can take apart the starter and clean the bendix solenoid which is what is getting stuck. The solenoid pulls the gears into the fly wheel and also the electrical contacts to make the starter motor activate. In the old days you could adjust the distance it moved as the contacts worn. My experience just like yours worked for awhile but eventually you just buy a new starter. It is only two bolts to undo and unhook the electrical. Easy job for DYI. Just remember to undo the negative battery cable or you will light up!
  • It could be the solenoid as wpatters states, or it could be brushes hung up or a dead spot on the armature brush contacts. May just be dirty electrical contacts at the starter. Replacing the starter is probably necessary for a complete cure.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Converter developed annoying rattle so I have to replace it. Reciprocating saw removed converter, but tubing remains that slips over front exhaust pipe. Looking for ideas. It will be a challenge.

    Jeep shop manual says "heat with torch until red hot and then rotate". There is no way that is going to happen because exhaust pipe has an alignment rivet and that mates to a notch in the converter tube. Had to cut converter. You can only slide the tubing. You can't rotate it to break it loose.

    In addition, converter tube has a crease that mates with exhaust pipe crease, creating a crimp effect.

    After 15 years, converter tubing and pipe are bonded.

    Any suggestions? I hate to replace front exhaust pipe
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,326
    Hey. I may be oversimplifying but.....Can't you just take it to Midas?

    Do most of it DIY, and leave the tough stuff to Midas. They have the tools, the tricks, and the specialized experience/equipment.

    Plus you know so much about the problem that there is no way they can overcharge you. Just pay a half hour labor and parts from the junkyard.

    Maybe $75 and it would all be right as rain.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • Midas does come to mind, however....cut what is bad or not mating properly and purchase a repair section. Slip it over the front exhaust pipe and mate to the new converter with U clamps, just like Midas would do. Its a dirty, frustrating job because you need to know the EXACT length and diameter pipe you need. You can buy bendable repair section depending on your state inspection requirements, if any. Advance or AZ may have a diagram with the data you need. Just my 2 cents.
  • Yep mine was doing that i just went to a transmission shop . It was a shaft in the transmission that served 2 purposes and it was binding up. Easy fix just bring to reputable tranny shop.

    Hope this helps :sick:
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,326
    edited October 2012
    When I first purchased my '99 GC in 2006 (with 98k), a check engine light would illuminate and I would "loose" 4th gear and 1st gear. Some kind of limp mode I guess.

    Anyway, I had purchased the extended warranty, knowing that the GC had a history of drivetrain ailments. I loved the truck and the dealer really hooked me up.

    For a $200 co-pay and 4 visits the mechanic; he finally found the real issue (he said there were almost 15 things that could have been the source of my truck's problem).

    So, Safford Dodge replaced everything short of a rebuild. The light went off, and I had no issues at all with the trans from then on. I did have to replace the 4 oxygen sensors in 2011 before I sold it :) , but other than that she was dead on reliable. Great Truck.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • i have a 97 GC and just replaced both rear axles (worn), wheel bearings and seals all brand new, added the right fluid and additive! well it seems to be worse now if not the same ????? noice stays weather on the gas or not ? could i have bad new bearings ?? thanks
  • 1atony1atony Posts: 1
    You may also want to jack the back of the jeep up, secure it properly on jack stands and turn the rear wheel by hand to see if you can hear where the noise is coming from.

    For the heck of it, check the rear brakes to make sure they're not dragging and making noise. Hope this helps you out.

    Tony
  • When i take off from a stop, feels like back tires are lagging or not wanting to turn....
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,326
    edited October 2012
    If it is both back wheels then the problem is in the diff between them. The lubrication/grease needs to be maintained periodically or they will just rust up and jam. Do you have the gearbox in open diff (AWD OR "4 hi").

    When is the last time you have had your 4x4 components maintained? The diffs should be checked at LEAST every 35k.

    Put it in the shop before something breaks. If you can catch it now then you may only have a small bill. However, if one of the diffs breaks you are in for $1500 MINIMUM.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • I have a re-occurring error code for cam position sensor. I replaced the sensor, but a few months later it came back. I replaced it again, as well as the crank position sensor. A few months have passed and the error has returned. I’ve checked the connections at the PCM and sensor, but the error remains.
    Any idea where to look next?
  • Not sure where you live, but when my rear end shelled on my 1998 GCL, I found the best place to get service was Pyle Brothers Automotive, Baytown, TX. They will ship part sto you if needed or know who can fix it in your area. They are simply the best differential people in the business.
  • Whatever. Used parts are always a risk. If you are happy, great, otherwise, buyer beware.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,326
    Is it simply mechanical wear? Is the cam in the right position? It has been in service for 14 years.

    If it isn't wear, have you ever replaced the ECM? A new computer solved a similar problem that I had. You can get one for around $200.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • Samual, I too have have exactly the same problem with my Jeep CRD with the mercedes benz engine. As you say air is leaking into the system from somewhere. I have had all the O rings replaced, a non return valve put on the fuel filter but still I have starting issues when the car is cold.
    What has been done in the interim to keep the car mobile is that a hand primer bulb has been installed inline between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump. In the morning I pump the bulb to pressurise the system and the car starts without problem. I am taking it into the specialists next week to see what the problem is, I suspect that it could be the high pressure pump
    Please let me know what your result was.

    Motormouth
  • I have a 98 Grand Cherokee Limited, 5.2 and have been trying to track down a problem. The computer is throwing a code that the speed sensor is bad, but I just replaced the BWD sensor and it's still giving me the same error. So I figure it might be the transmission output speed sensor, which actually makes more sense since it seems to be taking a long time to shift from first to second. Can you tell me where this sensor is located?
  • replace the crank sensor attached to the trans, not an easy job, drop exhaust, starter, not for the faint at heart/ :shades: dont break it buy mopar replacemnt part not off brand
  • iam trying to replace the u-joint on the front right axle but this u-joint has no clips on the caps. only a solid cap on all four points! im stummped on how to remove.. any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • Year? Model? Engine? not a lot of info here to give you advice, and the correct spelling is "axle".
  • tomclass10tomclass10 Posts: 3
    edited November 2012
    97 sport with a 4.0...
    ... spelling i know thank you. was a type error, sorry it bothered you!
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,326
    You are not bothering me. You are welcome here.

    You do sound kinda young, and replacing drive axles is dirty, hard work. You have to know what you are doing, and it is easy to break other things trying to get to it, like torn CV boots, broken cotter pins, etc.

    While you are in there you need to inspect the shocks, brakes, and look for oil leaks as well.

    Wear gloves, use a Milwaukee cordless impact wrench, and follow the Chilton's manual at least before you remove a part that you didn't need to.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • Thank you, i have a few years experience and have replaced u-joints many times along with the knowledge to know what to look for and whats what. With over 30 years of working on my own vehicles (not claiming experience) i have NEVER seen a u-joint without clips to be removed to disassemble. thats all I'm looking for help with. Are they pressed in can i just put axle in a press? or is there a specific tool needed? thank you very much for your reply to my cry for help! ~Tom
  • how did you fix it?
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,326
    I had an extended warranty. I live in a condo so I no longer have a garage to do major work. Plus, my 99 is a WJ and has the 4.7 V8, which is a different power-train than yours. That's why I can't get specific. Sorry.

    Buying a Chiltons manual is the very best thing you can do. It has step-by-step instructions on repair/replace of every component.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • I just did it tonight in like 15 minutes..I first read some articles on ask.com they had no idea???
    I opened hood,took off plastic guard,it was on the left side by battery,could not get my hand in their at all..
    Remove battery for easy access,then use spade screwdriver to release the blue tabs on electrical connection,do it very easy not to damage tabs.
    Simply pull harness from back of bulb,grab the black right angle black plastic part of bulb and twist to the right and pull out.
    Take the new bulb careful not to touch lamp with skin,as the oil in skin will react and bulb will die sooner,push new bulb into same place you took it out and twist to the left,it will lock in.
    Next if you have any silicone lubricant it a good idea to lubricate the connection very sparely so next removal is easy,then press the connection back together.
    replace battery but don't tighten everything up yet,TEST LIGHTS MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS WORKING AS IT SHOULD!then tighten up batteryleads and clean them if needed,check battery light while your there or water level if that type.replace plastic guard on top.
    Walla your done! I would do the same for lower bulb or the clearance side light.
  • Somehow my lug nuts came loose on my rear wheel (I think my vengeful neighbor might have had something to do with it). Long story short, they came off while I was driving and I snapped three lugs and screwed up my bearing. Now I have to replace the hub and bearing but can't figure out how to get the hub off the axle. It's a 4WD and there is a circular piece in the center of the hub with two nubs sticking out opposite each other. Looks like I may need a special tool, but have no clue. :confuse:
  • animal2animal2 Posts: 11
    the rear hub is part of the axle assembly and not a removable piece. remove the whole axle as a unit and take it to a automotive machine shop to press off and replace the bearing and race.. If you just had your tires replaced on the rear and didn't re-torque the lugs after driving a while that is the usual reason for wheel loss. Look behind the hub for 4 nuts that retain the axle assembly remove them and pull the axle out..
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    I have a 1993 jeep with 6 cyc engine. Just replace the water pump that had a bad bearing...you could hear the noise while driving. Now when I accelerate the engine even if parked I hear a rushing of water sound. Last night it seemed to stop after the heater finally kicked in...I mean after the car got fully hot. Could this be air in the water? If so is there any trick to purging the air out of the water system?

    Thanks
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Posts: 55
    Yes, it is probably air in the system in the heater heat exchanger in the dashboard area. Run the heater on high temp for a few miles and the bubble will clear itself. Recheck the coolant level in the refill bottle a few times and top off as necessary. DO NOT open the radiator cap on a hot engine.
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