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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • I own a 1994 JGC with 145K on it. Within the last year it has started eating ignition coils when I take it on the highway for an extended period of time for one hour or more. Believing resistance to be the problem, I have replaced all the plugs, plug wires, etc. and it continues to burn the coils up. Any ideas of what is causing this and remedies would be appreciated.
  • I have a 2002 JGC Laredo, 100K on it, and I have a couple of problems. Hope somebody knows what they might be. Any help will be appreciated.
    Ok, #1: After running for awhile, maybe 15-30 mins, engine starts to occasionally idle rough when stopped for a red light. It doesn't do it all the time, but still quite often. I've heard some suggestions, like: plugs, fuel injection system clogged up, fuel pump, exhaust... anybody had a similar problem?
    #2. When I turn left a certain way (turning right and then turning left) there's a knocking sound coming from my left wheel. Any suggestions what this might be?
  • I have a similar problem. My remote would unlock all the doors except driver's side so when i started the car, it would die on me because the alarm would shut it off. I had my 99 GC for about 4 years and it started happening after I had the engine replaced this summer (at a non-dealer shop). Then i took it to Jeep dealer and they said it was the BCM board so they replaced it (charged me $750) and now (4 months later), it is happening again! They are now saying it is a short with the wires and they already charged me $400 and still havent found the problem. Is there a way to bypass/dis-engage the alarm so the car can run? Do you have any idea what can cause this and how they can fix? I am really fed up with the dealer and I really feel like they are taking advantage of me because I am a female. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Sorry the message is too long.
  • Just don't use your lock switch on the driver door, just manually lock the slider. It will not engage the alarm, so the alarm will not be able to disengage the engine. Yeah, I would be pushing the dealership to take some action or threaten calling the better business bureau, b/c you sent it to them to fix a particular problem and they gave you a particular solution and it still DID NOT fix the problem. Ask for either the problem to be fixed for FREE or for you $1150 back, if nothing else then just labor with fixing the problem for free(and you pay for parts only). If they don't want to listen ask for their manager if they don't listen ask for the General Manager, and finally go to the OWNER, and even then, if he/she doesn't listen go to DC and the Better Business Bureau. Someone will listen along the lines, I know I don't hav $1150 to just throw around even if I did I would still want my money to be put to GOOD use. Be confident and well spoken(and maybe have a little attitude--not too much tho). And to address the rest of your concerns... This can be caused by a few things #1 a bad battery(go to your local parts store and have them check it-shouldn't cost anything at most $5). #2 A short in the wiring in the LEFT door(this is an isolated problem just to the drivers door so they should have checked that wiring harness FIRST!). #3 The switch. #4 The last resort is the BCM(this would have a more widespread problem--more doors not locking). They MAY be trying to take advantage of you, or it could just be they DON'T know what the problem is, and they are charging you for it. BTW most dealerships have a charge just for looking at your car, so I would suggest-Don't go there again, and IF you do make them not charge you for looking at your car until they've figured out the problem(tell them if they can't do that you will go somewhere that can). This should be a fairly easy fix tho, the part of the wiring that bends the most(thus causing a short--break in the wire) should be available seperately. Sorry for rambling. I hope this helps you.
  • Though you don't have many miles on the engine you do have old wiring. Check for a short, break, bend, crack or something wrong in the wires running to the coil. A shorted wire could contact a ground somewhere and send neg. and postive feed through to your coil the wrong way.
  • I've had a similar problem with my 94 5.2-though we have different engines symptoms and cures will be similar.
    To #1--Check for vacuum leaks near or on--the throttle body, or the intake manifold. There will be a slight hissing sound while idling.-- Check the PCV vavle and CCV hose, they could be clogged and their only like $5. Check your fuel and air filters. Just remember to check the cheapest and easiest things first, they're usually the first things to cause problems, plus they're cheap and easy :-D.
    To#2 sounds like your ball joints may be going bad. Or maybe they're just loose or starving for chassis lube. Have someone check torque and lube your suspension/steering components(these are always neglected therefor always problematic.

    I hope I helped.
  • rolljrollj Posts: 13
    I HAD A FLOWMASTER DELTA 50 SERIES SUV PUT ON AND IT SOUNDS GREAT EVEN WITH THE RESONATOR STILL ON. I ORIGINALLY HAD A DYNOMAX 2 CHAMBER MUFFLER PUT ON BUT THAT WAS INSANELY LOUD SO I REPLACED IT WITH THE FLOWMASTER. I WANTED THE DYNOMAX MUFFLER BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL STAINLESS STEEL BUT STILL THEY ARE WAY TO LOUD. THE PROBLEM WITH REPLACING THE MUFFLER IS WHERE IT SITS UNDER THE VEHICLE, IF ITS TOO LOUD IT RESONATES THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE VEHICLE. THE FLOWMASTER MUFFLER COSTS ABOUT $100 BUCKS AND I ONLY PAID $80 FOR THE INSTALL. HOPE THIS HELPS.
    (P.S. I WAS TOLD NOT TO REMOVE THE RESONATOR THAT SITS AT THE BUMPER BECAUSE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF GETTING AN EXHAUST DRONE WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY)
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    INSANELY LOUD - you mean the muffler was kinda like someone posting in ALL CAPS? ;) ;)

    You've been here a while so you probably know that all caps is harder for most of us to read, and many people just skip over those posts. I'm guessing you need a Flowmaster keyboard now. :shades:

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Thank you for your response. 4 months ago, they had already changed the BCM and didnt investigate further to see what made the BCM go bad. I got my Jeep back and it ended up being $650 (so total of $1400!!!). They said there was a short with the wires (it took them 9 hours to find where it was!!!). They claim that some wires had corrosion which melted the wires causing the short. I am trading in my jeep today for a Mazda RX-8 and I am NEVER buying a Jeep again! I was going to file all kinds of complaints but now I am at a point where I just want to put it behind me and try to think they had good intentions. Thank you for your message! Good luck with your Jeep! :)
  • I have a 98 JGC with 50k miles that has been driven with care. About 6 months ago I started hearing a sloshing sound on the passenger side near the dash when I turned a corner, rounded a curve, etc. and it got louder and more frequent over time. The dealer told me I needed a new radiator to the tune of approx. $750. The problem came back within days and got worse again. The dealer fixed it again for no charge, and within a couple of days the problem is back. Apparently there is coolant sloshing around in the hose but why it cannot be permanently fixed is beyond me. It is really loud and annoying. Any suggestions?
  • tandy1tandy1 Posts: 1
    i have a 95 jgc that has the same problem, it will run fin for about 3 or 4 days and then i will go to start it wether it was sitting all night or i just shut it off to fill up with gas and it wont turn over. all the lights will come on but when i turn the key foward there is just a click and it is as if i just turned the key to acc. i have to disconnect the battery for about 15-20 min and just it to start the car. i have been to my local stereo shop and had the owner who i am very good frinds with check out the whole alarm wiring and relays for the starter and he sed it very well may be the celonoid in my starter.
  • samm1samm1 Posts: 1
    i have a 1989 jeep cherokee and im having problems with using alot of my accessoires and lights. when i start my jeep the battery gage shows a good 14, but when i turn on my lights, heater or anyother accessory then the battery power drops almost instantly killing my jeep. I just replaced my alternator and coils and the problems still persists. any ideads on what it might be and how i could fix it??
  • dandgdandg Posts: 86
    My 94 Jeep GC ,5.2,154K on it, has been kicking a "high voltage from O2 sensor" code. I replaced the sensor a while back and although it seemed to be solved for a bit it is now returning intermitantly.I hooked it up to a friends scanner and could see the o2 volts climp over 1.20 and the check engine light kick on.It seems to top out at 1.40.

    Any ideas? PCM? (there is also the most common "check 4 wheel drive switch" light and beeb that has been on and off over the three years I owned it)
    Relay? read where ASD relay is in that loop,but not sure if a relay could be intermitant.
    Anyone else been down this road?New Sensor seem to be working as it shows below 1.0 when light is not on changes voltage when driving it
  • svienssviens Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee and for the past year the keyless remotes would only work if I'm about 2 feet away. I've had the batteries replaced in both remotes but the problem still exists (nothing changed).

    Any suggestions?

    Steve
  • i think i have the same problem. i have a laredo 94 and for some reason i cant drive my car. the security system goes off on me everytime i try to start it. this happened once before but i dont remember exactly what i did to fix it. i've been locking and unlocking doors, jumped it a few times, and try everything i could think of. all i have is a key i dont have the wireless key or anything like that. does anyone think they can help me out? replies would be appreciated
  • My JGC 2000 is all-time 4 WD. The rear axle seems to rumble/shudder when turning to right or left. The mechanic said that it sounds like its related to LSD so we have :mad: just replaced the rear differential case but the noise is still there. Nothing much noticable when going in a straight line. Please help - any suggestions welcome!
  • Bad Viscious coupler
  • howie56howie56 Posts: 21
    I'm wondering if You have traction control on your Jeep ? I have a 2005 JGC w/traction control and it has gone out on me already and the vehical shudders when you turn right or left as the rear brakes are grabbing cause it thinks the vehical is sliding out of control. The garage have to replace the control unit in the steering coluum to fix the problem .. Not sure if it's your problem but I hope this helps . :shades:
  • Lately when driving my 93 jeep cherokee - it seems to just stall for no reason. No noise - nothing. it's like the car is turned off and you just coast to a stop with no power steering. When I try to restart it just cranks over and over but doesn't start. No abnormal noise when trying to start - it just doesn't "start" just turns over. After sitting for 1-5 minutes - it usually starts. I typically drive it for no more than 10 minutes at a time. It usually stalls after driving for about 5 minutes.

    In a previous thread someone mentioned a PCM. What is it?

    thanks
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    What is it?

    Powertrain Control Module.

    tidester, host
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