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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • You might want to check the wires in the door jam (under the black boot) first to make sure they have not worn apart. Then you might want to check window switch at the back door as well as your drivers side switch (the one that controls all of them)to see if there is a short there. :)
  • My '05 GC will not start. It turns over as normal, but will not start without being jumped. I replaced the battery almost 2 weeks ago. It started up with no problems about a dozen times over the next 3 days and then wouldn't start. I had to have it jumped. I took it to the dealership and was told the codes showed the battery wasn't grounded properly. The negative connector had to be replaced when the battery was replaced and the connection was not tight. The dealership told me they would only touch it if I wanted to allow them to replace the entire wiring harness. I was told to take it ack to Sears and have them redo the negative connection. I did this (they tightened everything down better) and it's been fine for a week. Today, same thing. Everything on the battery is very tight. Anyone have any ideas?
  • My '05 GC will not start. It turns over as normal, but will not start without being jumped. I replaced the battery almost 2 weeks ago. It started up with no problems about a dozen times over the next 3 days and then wouldn't start. I had to have it jumped. I took it to the dealership and was told the codes showed the battery wasn't grounded properly. The negative connector had to be replaced when the battery was replaced and the connection was not tight. The dealership told me they would only touch it if I wanted to allow them to replace the entire wiring harness. I was told to take it back to Sears and have them redo the negative connection. I did this (they tightened everything down better) and it's been fine for a week. Today, same thing. Everything on the battery is very tight. Anyone have any ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    the 4.7 uses coil right on plug

    i would check the conectot to the pcm which sits on the fire wall in the engine compartment on the right or passenger side right behind coolent tank
    big bunch of wires pluged into pcm wigle around or unplug and plug in a couple of times (BE SURE TO DISCONECT THE BATTERY FIRST}
  • I'll try that. Thanks.
  • bgaffordbgafford Posts: 5
    My 97 Jeep GC limited also had the yellow headlights. Fixed the problem today. You will need wet/dry sandpaper 600grit 1000grit and 2000grit, Turtle Wax rubbing compound (the green one), and Mcguire's PlastX.

    1. Sand with 600grit, get paper wet and sand away you see the yellow go away right then.

    2. Sand with the 1000grit, get paper wet and sand a long time this helps get out some of the deeper 600grit scratches.

    3. Sand with the 2000grit, get it wet and your arm is going to hurt, this is the last and final sanding stage and you want it to look good, this will fine down those 1000grit scratches

    4. Rubbing Compound. Now your light is already going to look a lot better, you will be able to see the inside but those fine scratches do make it somewhat cloudy. Now move on to the rubbing compound. buffer is recommended or the drill attachments they sell today are also good. You will see the scratches disappear leaving it looking so much better.

    5. Mcguire's Plastx, i have heard a lot of good things about this product, i dont know how much it really did but i think it helps protect it somewhat, but yes it did help with the final finish. Apply it with the buffer also and buff away.

    My final product looked awesome. Remember to take your time with the sanding. This will give you the desired look. Also it is a good idea to tape off the light while it is on the Car so you dont mess up any paint around. Good Luck Hope it helps! :)
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    Some time ago the pulley wheel of the steering pump of my '98GCLtd disintegrated. Inspection showed the pump had seized. A local mechanic repaired it and all was OK. Then the high pressure hose from the pump split sending oil everywhere and guess what - no power steering. I managed to avoid the wall.
    Replaced the pipe/hose but intermittently the power steering fails (especially at low revs) and I have a heavy clunking when turning sharp left or right. Right hand constant velocity joint seems to be a bit rough but all fine when both fronts jacked up and wheel turned full circle (without engine running of course)
    Anyone had similar problems? Is is the pump, the steering box or something in the CV joint?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Thanks! Consider posting a guide - see the link at the top of this page for details.

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    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • pgr40pgr40 Posts: 2
    2000 GCL 4.0L
    Is the relay the 40Amp(Fuse)in the PCM/PDC on the right side in engine compartment?
    If not where exactly is the relay?
    Is there an ambient temp sensor? Where?
    AC engages, fan doesn't go on.
    Temp exceeds 210 deg., fan doesn't go on.
    Hot wired, fan goes on.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    beleave or not the relay for the fan is behind front bumper 0n pas (right )side of car

    1 remove front bumper and grill assembly
    2 remove 1 support bolt near front reservoir
    3 remove reservoir bolts (2)
    4 remove reservoir get out of way
    5 disconect wires from relay
    6 remove relay
    7 replace by going back up the list
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    Just thought I'd give a final update.. Replacing the TPS did the trick, it's now been 6 months and is still running fine.

    And the dealer said I need a new computer...

    (BLAH BLAH BLAH)
  • bripa3bripa3 Posts: 4
    Can someone help determine the possible location of my engine coolant leak, job description of repair, and estimated cost of repair? It appears that the engine coolant is leaking from a gasket on the lower pan just below the lowest belt pully under the engine.
    The interesting thing is that it doesn't leak all the time. And, when it leaks sometimes a will lose a lot of coolant, other times its just a small amount of coolant.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    Just a confirmation, I did nearly the exact same thing for my "fogged over" headlights on 00' JGCL.

    I had tried everything else then one day thought "you know, if they can sand paint to a perfect finish why can't I do it with plastic?" So I did. Only I used a power sander (still takes a while, but at least my arms didn't hurt when I was done!) ;)
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    How's the alternator? I would have several places test both your battery and especially your alternator. I've had places tell me my alternator was good only to find out they were ignorant and had poorly maintained equipment not to call names but (my local Auto Zone).

    I'd have at least 2 auto parts stores test it for you.

    I suppose if that's not it it could still be a loose ground to the frame, maybe from the battery to the frame (not likely but possible)

    Also what code(s) are you getting? If you turn the key on and off three times it will tell you your codes (look where the odometer is) The reason I ask is because it's interesting how the dealers interpretation of the codes are always more expensive than my interpretation of the codes based on my haynes and chiltons manuals.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    What are all the codes you are getting?

    If you don't know turn the key on and off three times and look at the odometer it will tell you all the codes in (aprox.) 3 second intervals.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    BTW.. Bad injectors can also cause the P0301,0302,0303,0304,0305,0306,0307,0308 code to trigger.

    If it's only one code (and the same one) repeatedly and replacing the spark plugs did not work then it's likely to be the injector.

    Basically it's all about voltage I'd need a pen and paper to effectively describe it but I'll give it a shot anyway.

    The PCM monitors voltage spikes created when the spark plug ignites fuel sprayed by the injectors, it translates the combustion into voltage information via sensors that are part of the fuel injection system ie. the TPS, CPS, MAP, ect.. It then uses the internal voltage regulator (which knows what a normal spike, charge, hold and discharge pattern looks like) to adjust the injectors and such as it sees fit for proper function of the vehicle.
    The above code(s) is(are) set when the voltage spike is too high, or too low (or when a faulty sensor is telling the PCM the spike is too high or low) We feel a 'sputter' so to speak because the either we really have a bad voltage spike, or the PCM is trying to adjust something that doesn't need to be adjusted because it thinks we have a bad voltage spike...

    All that to say chances are it's (in this order) probably going to be fixed by:

    1. Replacing the spark plugs (and inspecting and replacing the plug wires as needed)
    2a. If other codes accompany the above codes, or you have more than one of the above codes replace the TPS (throttle position sensor)
    2b. Replace the MAP Sensor (as code dictates)
    2c. If no other codes apply and you don't have multiple of the above codes replace the injector (test first with a node light.)
    3. on (my best guestimate, cause I can't remember exactly) 1994 and earlier models I believe the voltage regulator is separate from the PCM if this applies for your vehicle replace it if the problem persists after replacing the above.
    4. as a last resort (because I may have forgotten something) replace the PCM

    Afterthought: as expensive as the MAP sensor is, and as fun as it isn't to change you may consider double checking your applicable relays and the Camshaft Position Sensor before replacing the MAP sensor. The relays are typically $7-$15 dollars and the CPS was around $20.00 I think whereas the MAP Sensor is nearly $100.00-$200.00 (also if you don't have a P0107, or P0108 code I wouldn't mess with it unless something else points to it being that)

    However we should remember that just because the code says it, it doesn't mean that is or isn't the problem. The diagnostic codes are just to help us solve the puzzle and reflect what the PCM thinks the problem is. Yes it's a fact that is will show us where there were negative readings but it's only as dependable as the sensor reporting to the PCM. Also some problems with trigger other codes ie. A P0121 (TPS does not correlate with MAP) indicate a problem with either the TPS, or MAP sensor a problem with one of those sensors will cause you to see a P0301, or P0300, P0301, P0302... codes as well. In which case we must determine which code most likely reflects the root cause of each of the codes.

    Beginners should think of it this way, if you are hungry your brain senses that the stomach is empty and set a 'code' indicating hunger, perhaps even stomach pains, headaches, shaky limbs (arms, legs) ect... You wouldn't try to replace your stomach, head, legs, arms, and brain to fix this problem just because you had 'codes' telling you there were problems with each of these. (there is always a root cause that will effect other components and send false readings) ;)
  • I have a 2000 JGC limited 4.7 it seems to make noises and is a little rough and makes a wining sound when i make sharp right and left turns or (prime example) when i make a 3 point turn. I checked the power steering fluid and seems to be fine. Does anyone know what the problem may be and how i can go about fixing this minor problem before it blows up in my face.
  • laddealaddea Posts: 13
    A couple of possibilities come to mind..

    1. Steering pump drivebelt may have play in it or otherwise be faulty.

    2. Faulty power steering pump (not so fun to replace)

    3. I wasn't able to verify for sure but I believe that somewhere between the steering column and the steering wheel is some kind of belt. When this belt is loose or going bad you will see symptoms similar to what you are describing.

    Good luck, I must admit the steering components aren't really my thing.
  • jeep93jeep93 Posts: 2
    hello guys.. i have a 93 grand cherokee.. it runs so smooth but when the car itself heats up and i make sharp turns the jeep begins to hop.. does anyone know what the proble could be?
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