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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi,
    I seem to be having some of the same problems with my 04 JGC. It started as my husband turned the engine off and i left my window down, he turned the ignition and it would not go back up. He then got in and shut the drivers side door and the passenger side window then went up. Then the door windows and locks would not work the next day. NONE OF THEM!!! Then the interior lights came on and would not go off. We pulled the door panel off but did not see any broken wires. The black boot from the door to the frame looks brand new. I dotn know what to do next. We cant drive it b/c the lights being on all the time will run down the battery and add another expense. So we have parked it and disconnected the battery. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Does anyone have a solution? I have tried to read through many posts and if I am repeating something I am so sorry! Thanks
  • Not sure if you read my previous posts...but my 04 did the same thing, but continually had the loss of other electrical powered components. Its your wiring harness in the driver's door shorting out. There is a defect in the design for these CG's wiring harnesses and about 2 years ago Jeep redesigned it to prevent further probs. I will tell you that it can be expensive to repair and as of yet Jeep has not issued a recall and owners are having to pay for these repairs. Your electrical probs will continue to get worse as the shorts work their way thru the system. In mine I could hear clicking on the drivers side when I would be on the road and this continued until I had the repairs done. If you have any type of expertise in the ways of autos you can take the panel and shrink wrap off the drivers door and test the wiring for shorts, mine were so bad you could see the scorching.
    I also recommend that you keep all the receipts for your repairs and contact jeep HQ directly about them issuing a recall. If enough owners do this they will issue the recall (which they should have already done) and possibly begin reimbursing owners for the repairs. Good luck!!
    CherokeePrincess
    cherokeeprincessdreamer@hotmail.com
  • Well the jeep is actually my roommates but he isn't so computer friendly so I have been helping him out. He hasn't had the electrical problems ever since he yanked the alarm system out. He has mentioned hearing a rattling in the driver side door so if he goes to start having the electrical problem again that is the next area he is going to check out. So far I have been forwarding all posts to him.
  • I have an 01 JGC and judging from the discussions, seat and window switches are a problem. We bought the car second hand and the driver heated seat didn't work. Now the passenger seat doesn't work. Switches run from 35.00-100.00 each plus shipping. Does anyone know if that is a good price? I hesitate to get one from the wrecking yard...undoubtly it will be one that already doesn't work. Does anyone know if the "newer" switch replacements work any better than the old ones?
    Cold seat in Prineville....
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    Why do you think it's the seat heater switches & not the element?
    Do a search on "heated seats" in this forum and you will get two pages of hits, they had problems in the 99-03s.
    EG, see mine back around Dec 04 regarding my 01 JGC Laredo loaded w/leather heated seats: ...this is a 3rd time heated seat defect in

    Well it was "the magic" which was good as my extended warranty ran out soon after & we had zero problems of any significant nature in the past 3 1/2 years since. I sold the 01 to my son in November and bought a new 07 loaded Laredo; yes my wife wanted, you got it, HEATED LEATHER SEATS again.
    These new model seats warm up much faster and in 6k miles no problems on this 07, it really handles superb. I happened to drive my son's 01 this weekend and his sure are a softer suppler leather after 85k miles of breakin!
    And that old 01 knock on wood, is running very well.

    Good luck with your fix but be sure it's really the switch and not the heater element, which is not easy to get at.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    Why do you think it's the seat heater switches & not the element?
    Do a search on "heated seats" in this forum and you will get two pages of hits, they had problems in the 99-03s.
    EG, see mine back around Dec 04 regarding my 01 JGC Laredo loaded w/leather heated seats:...this is a 3rd time heated seat defect in < 4 years. He did say they put in a new element in the seat: a $200 part but labor intensive (doable by a skilled do-it yourself person). The alternative is the $1200 seat bottom replacement others have referred to earlier on this forum ... or a cold butt. This is always amazing as 2 heated seats and all the control wiring is a $250 option when new - go figure. I sure hope 3 times is the magic.

    Well it was "the magic" which was good as my extended warranty ran out soon after & we had zero problems of any significant nature in the past 3 1/2 years since. I sold the 01 to my son in November and bought a new 07 loaded Laredo; yes my wife wanted, you got it, HEATED LEATHER SEATS again.
    These new model seats warm up much faster and in 6k miles no problems on this 07, it really handles superb. I happened to drive my son's 01 this weekend and his drsyd sure are a softer suppler leather after 85k miles of breakin! And that old 01 knock on wood, is running very well.

    Good luck with your fix but be sure it's really the switch and not the heater element, which is not easy to get at.
  • rev4revrev4rev Posts: 11
    I have no spark at spark plugs but when I remove coil wire at dist. cap and put a plug in it it has great spark. Even open up gap on test plug a long ways and it still sparks from coil. Have replaced crank sensor, PCM, Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor to no avail. Timing is on anyone have an idea what to do next? Is it possible the rebuilt PCM is firing coil when rotor is inbetween contacts in cap?
  • mls0512mls0512 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 JGC that I bought used 2 years ago..it has 70,000 miles on it. Since July I have put over 5k into this car. Today while driving, my gas gauge went from 1/2 tank to E and the need gas light came on and I lost RPM'S..it seemed to correct itself and then I went to a gas station to get gas just in case, then after that it kept losing rpms and it stalled and chugged the whole way to work..this happened before and the mechanic said it was the fuel pump (that happened in November with the exception of the gas gauge)), we just got it back 3 weeks ago and that time it was stalling in reverse and sometimes drive.

    Can anyone help???
  • mammamamma Posts: 5
    was your )2 sensor recently (3 years) replaced? Mine did the exact same thing. I had a "universal" )2 sensor put in. It shorted out and fried my computer. Have them check that and clean all sensors.
    Good luck.
  • dsmansdsmans Posts: 10
    Hello there! I am wondering if anyone knows the cost or maintenance that will accompany a leak of gear oil coming what looks like from the seal of the rear gear box. Also, is there a "reserve" so it doesn't leak dry? I plan to get it fixed as soon as possible but would like to know what I may be up against first, thanks!
  • smokebeesmokebee Posts: 30
    book says to remove rear wheels, brakes and calipers.Drop driveline. Use tools # 6958(holder) C-452 ( Remover) and (Wrench) C-3281 to remove the rear yoke to access the seal. Remove seal with any tool that can pull it out. Use toolsC-3972-A (seal installer and handle C-4171 to install new seal. Use Installer W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Holder 6958 to reinstall the yoke.. The differential housing dips below the lower seal line so there will be oil in the rearend. It is vented so no pressure builds up. The rotation of the ring gear will whip oil upon the diff bearing. The bearing, however will not be submerged in oil as it would be without the leak. Get ready to spend a few bucks!!!!! S Swann-Odessa, tx ( I do not know why the wheels and brakes have to be removed as they are not in the way of seal replacement)
  • dsmansdsmans Posts: 10
    Thanks so much. I'm waiting for a quote now from Cottman Transmission. WOW! The manager made it sound like it would be a simple thing, but obviously not. I still don't have a call back yet and it's been almost 4 hours!
  • wick24wick24 Posts: 1
    just started overheating the other day, car only has 20,000 miles on it. we thought that the fan may of been the problem it doesn't run by its self but fan does work when it is hard wired too the battery. were thinking about checking the temp/sensors or relays but just wondering if anyone has had this problem and has the knowledge to fix it. :confuse:
  • Howdy , i was just wodering if anybloody has heard of any radiator hose dramas with the 2.7 litre CRD engine grand cherokee MY 2004? my machine occassionaly pongs of coolant and the hoses seem to be Breathing/seeping fluid
  • hokiecowhokiecow Posts: 1
    A couple of weeks ago the power auto entry/exit stopped working. Then tonight the lights in the dash started flickering on and off. Then the interior lights started coming on and staying on for a few seconds before going off. Shortly after this all the interior lights came on and stayed on for the remainder of my drive. We are going to take it in to have it looked at but I was wondering if anyone else had the same experience and what the cause was.

    Thanks!
  • arkitekarkitek Posts: 2
    Ive got a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 156k miles. Just last week I went to close the drivers door and a bolt with a star head (not a phillips head) popped out of the door and what looks to me that the latching mechanism inside the door broke from the body of the door. Is this fixable/weldable? or will i need to get a new used door?

    Thank you!
  • arkitekarkitek Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my interior lights. What the cause for me was that the button switch when i close the door was not pushing the button in all the way. I was able to pull on the door and the lights went out and then when i let go, lights came on. My quick fix was to tape a small piece of cardboard to the door where the switch would hit and that did it.

    but for me, this is related to my problem that i posted today.
  • I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L - 242 with 208k miles.

    Recently I have noticed that my jeep has been smoking a lot. When I look under it, all the smoke is coming from the catalytic converter. It looks like steam more or less, but has a slight smell to it. There is nothing leaking onto it, all the smoke/steam is coming from within it. All of my gauges are fine and nothing else seems to be wrong. I believe it has never been replaced. Anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong with it?

    Also, if it needs to be replaced. Could you tell me an approximate price range that I should look for when talking to shops?

    Thanks for all the help in advance.
  • dmenchendmenchen Posts: 4
    I was reading a post from another member about how his 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee has not power going to the front axle and only 1 wheel in the back is getting power. Wow! I have exactly the same problem with my 99 JGC with the Quadra Track II. According to everything I read the drive train should send power to whichever axle or wheel has traction, but in my case there is nothing going to the front and the rear is only going to where there is no traction. HELP!!!

    I am concerned that there has been no response since the original post of this issue back in 2003, I hope I have better luck getting an answer. :confuse:
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    how maney miles on the jeep?
    have you changed the oil in the transfer case?
    try it in 4low
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